MrTrilby

Charging occurs when the car wants it to. On older cars the alternator runs continuously and is always charging. Newer cars can effectively switch this off so the alternator doesn’t charge unless needed, reducing the load on the engine. When it does charge, it can do at a much higher rate and present a bigger load on the engine (thus charging the battery faster). So when you brake the alternator can present a bigger load on the engine to help slow you down and also charge the battery. Ideally it will only need to charge when you’re braking if you’re doing stop start driving. On longer journeys it will need to charge whilst driving at steady speed. Modern batteries are also more tolerant - they can cope with the car discharging the battery further (so it can longer with the alternator off), and also cope with being charged at a higher rate (so charge up more quickly when you brake). It all helps.

No problems with our 2.5 year old Kodiaq - left out in all weathers. I’ve not seen any issues reported with the Kodiaq panoramic roof.

You’re mixing up two different things. Yes, modern oils are fantastic at providing effective lubrication from cold. However, when cold they will still absorb exhaust gases that will make them acidic. It’s the reason why with most variable servicing routines the car will reduce the service interval if you do a lot of short journeys. And it’s yet another reason why buying a diesel car to do mostly short journeys is a false economy - you really are better off with the big petrol for that kind of usage - it gets its oil up to temperature much more quickly, at which point moisture it absorbed from the exhaust gas gets boiled off.

You park the csr in the garage, so your car isn’t so affected by outside temperatures. My car lives outside, so on a cold UK morning is the same temperature as the outside temperature. On my 10 mile fast A road commute (16km), the oil temperature, which is the temperature that really matters for engine longevity and better oil life, only just reaches operating temperature by the end of the journey. If you were doing a shorter commute or driving slower roads I suspect the oil would not reach operating temperature.

I’m afraid it is nonsense. I have a 2018 7 seater diesel with a factory fitted towbar. It was the manual gearbox variant that wasnt type approved for towing. Going back to the original question - use the search. I am pretty sure that it was only the original low power variant of the 1.4 petrol that needed the radiator grill changing and additional cooling added for a towbar. The discussion was a while ago though so I might be wrong.

Our Kodiaq is that exact model - bought May 2018 and currently on around 63k miles. It has been faultless and still feels as fresh as the day we bought it. I would be quite happy with an 80k mile 2 year old car because the likelihood is that it has been doing long gentle motorway miles with low wear and tear, rather than living a hard life doing short miles and lots of braking and gear changing. Check the front brake disks for wear to give you an idea - ours are starting to look a bit worn, but it’s still on the original brake pads and disks. Similarly, check the front tyres for wear - at 63k miles our are looking like they might need changing by 70k miles, but they might stretch out to 80k miles, in which case you need to budget for new tyres. Ignore the poster who claimed the 7 seaters have a hard ride with a tow bar - ours is a 7 seater with factory tow bar and it has the best ride of any car I’ve ever owned - partly the reason we bought it.

£29k is a banal repair?

Braking down hills has been a standard feature of modern cruise control for a while - you set it to maintain 50mph and that’s what it will do, using engine braking and the brakes if necessary. ACC is different and nothing to do with hills - it will use the throttle and brakes to adjust speed to keep distance with the car in front of you, up to the speed you’ve set.

If I recall it was only the lowest powered version of the 1.4 petrol Kodiaq that required cooling modifications. Your dealer is the best source of a definitive answer. Alternatively search this forum for when it was first discussed to see which models it actually applies to.

Just to charge your phone a bit faster? And yet a few posts further up you were worrying about the ecological impact of buying just a cable, let alone the impact of an entire new charger.

If it bothers you then Skoda will happily sell you an OEM blade.

I love the pano roof on ours - 2.5 years old and no issues yet. Our SEL has the optional electric drivers seat and manual passenger seat. The electric seat is massively more comfortable with much better lumbar support. I’m not fussed about electric adjust, but if you do a lot of driving, the more comfy seat is something that would matter to me if I bought again.

Toyota use a number of techniques to ensure the ICE engine in their hybrids gets up to temperature rapidly (including use the exhaust the help heat the coolant if I recall).

We have a Thule Velocompact. They are far from cheap but they are excellent. Easy to store. Seconds to fit and remove. Completely secure. Doesn’t damage bikes. Not sure what more you can ask. Ours is 4 years old now, and gets fitted/removed from the car on average twice a week. Still going strong without missing a beat.