[Fan air distribution on auto setting]

It’s cold, so the car sends warm air to the lower vents. Heat rises. In the summer it sends cool air to the top vents. 

[Early tyre wear]

4 minutes ago, linni said:

But you are down under, you have more gravity in there.

 

Assuming you live in Europe and are north of Spain, that’s not true. Gravity is slightly weaker in New Zealand. 

[Early tyre wear]

Our SEL Kodiaq on Pirelli Scorpions is just coming up on 50k miles and although I’ve not measured them for a while, they look like I can probably get them to 60k miles before I need to change them. 

[Kodiaq Owners Register]

The light pack is an option on the SEL. We have it. It’s not the same thing. You don’t get low power ambient leds in the ceiling. Just coloured lights in the door trim and LED foot well lighting.  

[4 x 4, does it work in reverse?]

Auxiliary pump to cool the turbos?

[Kodiaq Owners Register]

10 hours ago, Gmac983 said:

 

I'm not sure on non-UK spec cars but almost everything you mention is on my own MY20 kodiaq sportline as standard and will be on the SEL and also models above as well (not sure on the rain sensing window closure...) but otherwise all is there. 

I don’t think so. My SEL lacks the discreet lights in the ceiling that provide continuous ambient lighting of the cockpit at night. It also lacks illumination of the air vents, door handles and top glove box. 
 

I had some of those features on a base model Vauxhall Vectra 15 years ago, so it’s a bit sad that a near top end Kodiaq lacks them. 

[Kodiaq is a tough old bear]

Worth getting it checked properly. A few years ago a friend had a similar thing happen and thought nothing of it. Until he had another incident in a car park when a car rear ended him again at low speed and the entire not crumpled. Apparently the rear crumple zones had been damaged in the first impact but not begun to crumple. The second impact flattened them. If the second impact had been a high speed one they wouldn’t have done their job and protected the occupants properly. 

[Phone placement]

12 minutes ago, Blakey092 said:

Discontinued in my20, the phone box is nothing more than a cubby now.

No. You’re confusing two different things. On older Kodiaqs, there was a wireless booster in the cubby that amplified the mobile phone signal. That has been discontinued. 
 

However, whilst plugged in to the USB connection when using CarPlay / Android Auto, the USB connects the phone to the car’s GPS antenna on the roof. That has not been discontinued. I don’t know whether the USB cable also connects the phone to the mobile antenna on the roof for booster phone signal - my guess is not. 

[Phone placement]

Just checking and it seems likely that the phone uses the car’s GPS antenna whilst connected to CarPlay/AndroidAuto

[Phone placement]

My phone seems to work just fine for signal and GPS whilst in the phone box, and we don’t have a signal booster. 

[Steering Wobble/Pulling]

I’ve experienced a minor snatching at the steering wheel on one occasion when turning with full right lock in a car park. The sensation was consistent with a differential winding up. 
 

However I’ve not been able to repeat it under similar circumstances. 

[Emergency SOS]

With that message it’s always worth restarting the infotainment head unit. Press and hold the power “button” until it restarts

[iPhone max volume after BT connection in car]

7 hours ago, BGB said:

I am almost certain that this is an issue with iOS 13 and not the cars infotainment. 

My iPhone on iOS 13 has no such problem. 

[Kodiaq centre console]

Also what I did: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M6Q83B4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For £8.99 gives you twin USB sockets with zero hassle. Its flush fitting so looks like it's a factory fit USB socket.

[Wiper Blades]

What was the final verdict on wiper blades? Are the 600mm blades an ok replacement for the OEM 630mm, or am I better off buying directly from Skoda?

[Kodiaq 1.5 TSI vs. 2.0 TDI]

If cost is not an issue then test drive them both and pick the one you like most. Personal preference is personal. 

[Service schedule]

Each time my car gets serviced, the dealer gives me a full printout of every bit of work ever done on the car. So you effectively get a full copy of the “service book” at every service. 

[Toggle Between Speed Limiter and Adaptive Cruise Control]

With the speed limiter, the Kodiaq will shift down to use engine braking to try and keep you below the set speed. However if the gradient is too steep it will beep at you to let you know that you need to help out and apply the brakes. 
 

Cruise control will downshift and also apply the brakes in order to maintain the set speed when going down a hill. 

[Service schedule]

My dealer told me that the DSG oil change was due every 40k miles, and Haldex is every 3 years regardless of mileage. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

For interest, I drove to work on Friday. Just over an hour’s drive with the first 40 minutes on A roads, 20 minutes on dual carriageway, and the final 5 minutes at town speeds. Just after I’d started the “town” section of the journey, the car decided it needed to do an active regeneration. 
 

My point being that I’ve found that to be reasonably typical behaviour - you can do all the long fast journeys you like, but the car will decide when it needs to regenerate the DPF, and it just gets on with it. Unless the warning light comes on, you just need to drive it as normal and it sorts itself out. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

1 minute ago, Gmac983 said:

Who cares whether it's auto or manual. The point is increasing revs as per the cars hand book when the dpf light comes on by selecting a lower gear(s). 

First time anyone has ever accused me of over thinking anything😁

In your case you are getting away with it just about with your type of usage. Others my be more marginal. 

I don’t think I’ve seen any forum posts from Kodiaq owners talking about the DPF light coming on. Unless you do entirely very short journeys and interrupt the regen cycle, you won’t see the light and you won’t have any need to force the car into a low gear. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

3 hours ago, Gmac983 said:

 

Yes that's it. 

That goes to the very heart of the point I'm making here. If you were aware of this whilst driving your routine journeys you could drive as per the handbook method which would aid the regen' process, or indeed continue driving normally for a few moments to allow the passive regen' to its job and finish its cycle. Too many incomplete regens' and you run the risk of the overall dpf warning coming on. 

Do you see my point? 

No I don’t see your point. I think you’re over thinking it. It’s a DSG gearbox. The car picks the revs it thinks it needs, and it seems to be doing a fine job of regenerating the DPF as and when it thinks it needs it. Without me needing to modify my driving style, or have the light come on. You just drive it. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

If the passive regen means when it idles at 1kRPM, it uses more fuel than normal, and the fans run after switch off if it hasn’t finished then yes, frequently. Maybe as frequent as once or twice per fill of the tank. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

35 minutes ago, Gmac983 said:

So even the very latest dpf model still requires the car to be driven with elevated engine revs to aid regeneration then (not quite the 3000rpm I was quoting/advised of for older dpf models) but still necessary all the same. 

No. Only necessary if the DPF light has come on and you need to do an emergency DPF clean. Which isn’t necessary unless you do persistent very short journeys. 
 

In normal use, even at motorway speeds, our diesel Kodiaq cruises at less than 2kRPM and never sees journeys where it is driven at a sustained engine speed above 2k. Most of the time it sits between 1200 and 1900 depending on road speed. 45k miles without once seeing the DPF light. 

[Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers]

38 minutes ago, VRS_White_Hatch said:

 

I'm trying to believe that at 1100 rpm the vehicle can make the exhaust reach 400+ deg temp and incinerate the soot without producing any smoke. Somehow I feel it ought to need a good blast even if it doesn't. 

Well believe it. 45000 miles in our diesel Kodiaq now with zero DPF issues. We live an hour’s drive from the nearest motorway, and even on a motorway the car never sees sustained driving at 3000RPM. 

 

The occasional forced regeneration at 1000rpm over a 15-20 minute drive or so seems to be perfectly sufficient to keep ours happy. Talk of needing to give them a good thrashing is nonsense applicable to diesels of old. As others have said, thrashing a modern diesel simply uses lots of AdBlue and hastens the need for another regeneration cycle.