KingRoach

Maybe too late now. My rear wheel caliper f87cked up and I have too many problems to fix and no time. I dropped it off at a garage in the morning and he suggested the best answer is to delete the sensors /remap. Costly, but my other option was to scrap the car and buy another, for which I have zero days available.

Shaken up indeed. This is day 4 of being on hold on phones or thrown around between nonresponsive teams and getting nowhere. I do like skodas and the the 1.6 tdi is actually my other car which I've had for 5 years which has also decided to fall apart this week...

Skoda Octavia II 2009/2010 Greenline TDI CR 1.6 Hi all. I've suddenly had this error appear out of nowhere. The car is now limp: no boost, no power. And it won't regenerate dpf. There no smoke. No smell. No other symptoms really, just Engine management light, flashing glowplug light, and loss of power. The error code says soot accumulation but it wasn't long ago that I took a routine long drive to clear out the DPF. Reading a lot online and watching YouTube videos, it appeared this problem should have been caused by the DPF pressure sensor failing due to age, and the solution would be to replace that and then regen the dpf all the way. I've just installed a new DPF pressure sensor. Command given to relearn new values, and to run Active DPF regen and I drove for 2-3 hours, a total of 120 miles, speed 40-70mpg and revs always over 2000rpm, up to 2700rpm, and the glowplug flashing light never went away. Now that I have turned the car off and back on, the error and engine management light came back like I did nothing. Help. Any well informed ideas or actual experience. Please don't haphazard guesses because my mind is about to explode from all the other stuff I have to deal with. [non-fault-related-rant] I have a lot going on and I'm tight on time and just wasted a whole day at the workshop who did not help, a pressure sensor and a lot of fuel, and I'm still at square one. I'm out of time as I've just had a car crash in my Fabia in the weekend, so I'm down to 1 car, and this one decided to fall apart at the same time (squeaking wheel, crunching other wheel, this DPF error thing, needs new oil already and also a new battery), I have work, my partner has work, and we've got 3 kids to take to and pick up from school. Insurance companies aren't responding and I don't know where to begin. I really didn't need this. [/non-error-related-rant]

It was very interesting to think about the battery, and I do have my doubts, but with this model you never know. A second service, at least another run of cleaning additives, was on my mind but it is now too late and I will never find out what was going on as I've just been in a car crash and the car is no longer derivable. I am sure the insurance company with write it right off. Thank you so much everyone for your help, and I hope this thread helps anyone else. Who knows, I might end up with the same car again.

I had run the OBD scanner quite a few times before that episode, and have been sure no codes were coming up at that point. The only strange thing the car is showing is a Light Bulb dashboard light, when every single light in the car works properly. Could be one of the lights has a worn filament, but as of now, every bulb works. No codes. It could also be, as a possiblity, when reset, the system kicked in, ran its default settings until it had its fill studying the battery voltage and decided that's enough, no more start/stop for you.

Sorry for being away so long. I may have spoken too soon. The start-stop only worked the first time I took the car after that job. It went back to not working from the following time I took the car up until now. May this thread die in piece and go on top of the useless thread pile.

Can't fully agree as the previous situation was the same with the blower on 4 as well as on 0. With the heater off. Etc. Regarding the readings, I agree, but I'd taken the readings a couple weeks ago and can't remember exactly what the decimals were, but I recall them being on the good end of the spectrum, if not very good. See if the improved situation persists. That is the plan and I'll update if anything comes up.

2011 Fabia Greenline II CR, 95K miles I've seen a couple threads of people discussing why Auto start/stop stops working in their cars after a while. The conditions are met but they still don't work after a while. The general suggestion found on this forum is to replace the battery as it gets old. I cannot see actual age of battery, but I get 12.##v with the car off, and 14.##v when on, suggesting alternator is working and battery health is ok. But I've had "Start/Stop Not Possible" message from the time I bought the car. I didn't care for it. And often pressed the button to turn it off as I'm still in testing phase of this car and observing other matters. The car needed a blower resistor as I could only use the fan on 4, and as I have a misting/condnsation problem, I need to use the fan longer on lower setting (4 is just annoying. I don't like noise). So I got the replacement part, a generic resistor, and replaced that. In order to do that you need to have the battery disconnected (so I lost my trip and MPG mesurement and whatnot but to hell with that). I started the car when I was done with fitting the new resistor, and with the fan blowing smoothly on 1, took on a 5-mile round trip, and to my suprise, Auto Start/Stop just kicked in. I drove for over 2 miles with my jaw wide open and eyebrows as high as they can get. I believe it had more to do with the car or ECU being "reset" due to battery disconnection for a while, which may be what people who change their batteries ultimately do: they disconnect the battery for a few minutes while it gets replaced. So is it really replacing an old healthy battery with a new one that is making the system kick back in, as was suggested here by someone, or is it merely disconnecting the battery, and reconnecting it a healthy energy source regardless of age. I don't know if this will be a correct assessment, but it may help someone out there or help give a better perspective on this particular issue, which seems to be fairly common in this car model. Best of luck.

Photos: A cold morning helped me look to see if there is any moisture leaking through the door seals. All looked good except this corner, in front of the offending door: Here you can see hinge has some signs of sliding, in the direction which means the door is pushed further in. This is the top hinge. The bottom hinge has no mark that I could see, but while the top of the door (window) is pushed in, the bottom of the door sticks out a bit. I thought I took a photo of how it looks now, but clearly I havne't. So might come back with a photo.

Okay so a bit of a catch up. May upload photos but here's a run down. The near side rear door is off. The other three are true. In the pictures it shows you how it seems to be pushed further in. The hinges bolts on that door are clearly tampered with, and there seems to be a bit of a "slide" marks in positioning at the hinge. The roof seal of the rear door looks much shorter only becasue it's pressed in. The seal is squeezed under the roof. I've loosened the bolts and tried positioning it better, and retightened. It is slightly imporved but still not perfect. I don't know if there is an art to getting this right. I can get the top to align, but the bottom sticks out. If I open the door, I can move it in an out on the hinge further, but when closed, which is the position I need to tighten the bolts, it's about fitted as much as I can push it in near the bottom, or out near the top. I have no one who trusts me enough to go into the trunk of a car. haha. But anyway, I might do what the video in the other post did and undo the rear bumper and check those channels. Silicone sealant, then? In other news, I've replaced the fan blower resistor so I can have the fan blowing on 1, 2 and 3 (healps clear the windshield without the noise of 4), and lo and behold, Start/Stop suddenly works?!!! I'm guessing something to do with the system resetting due to having the battery disconnected, possibly. But the light bulb dash light is still there.

First off, a quick thank you to everyoen who helped me in my first thread. Second, my 2011 Fabia Greenline II 1.2 TDI CR still has a couple issues I've discovered while doing the maintenance relating to the previous topic. First small problem: there is a light bulb warning light on the dashboard that's always on, but all light bulbs I've found in the car, outside, inside, and in the boot, seem to be ok. There are no codes. Any ideas? Second, The car has had S-Structrual Damage category in its history, marked as "damage to roof" but I could only find a small crack to what might just be paint on the roof, or is that the metal sheet? But then there is an issue I dicovered later. The left side rear door seal dosn't seem to fit just right, and one window frame column is actually different (polished finish as opopsed to matte finish compared to other right side door. I missed it at first, but using the flash light at night made it appear quite clearly.) so maybe the door is off, or the roof is. And when it rained, I checked under the boot, where the spare wheel is, and surely there was a bit of water accumulating in the corner. There are no signs inside the car of water leak having caused any marks in the past, and so far there is no rust that I can see. But I don't want either of these two things to happen, and surely the car mists a lot inside. A. Lot. So, I'll attach photos of the damage I found, and ask your opinion. Is it the roof, door or the column? And what should I do? Replace the door? not worry about it? Is the crack on the roof just paint or metal? Any insight helps.

Hi Folks! I need to update you. Haven't got the bluetooth dongle yet, will do eventually (just need to have one in general) but for now, I've used an EGR cleaner, ran the car enough to make sure the DPF is clean, replaced air filters, cleaned MAF sensor, changed oil filter, and new 5w-30 fully synthetic oil, ran an engine flush additive upon changing oil, and there is a difference made to the problem I was having. Remember I mentioned a Citroen C3 1.4 petrol I had a long time ago, which would go sluggish off a traffic light or uphill once warm? Which was sorted by an oil change? And that I suspect it may be something like that playing a role? Well, it has been something like that playing a role. I haven't had a dead-emergence since flushing engine and changing oil, only notice momentary sluggishness trying to pick up after rpms drop 2 or 3 times, which may have more to do with the weird gear ratios combined with the weak engine than with anything else. It does seem to die down, but the engine still feels like it's breathing a bit - struggling to load rather than not responding, so quite a different feel. All in all I'm happy with this difference and can accept that the car now must be performing the way it is expected to for what it is. MPG still seemed low but that may be due to the particular journey that I have to take upon commute, as it include a LOT of stopping and creeping in the rush hour, and it's a short journey. So average is 30-40MPG on screen (before service: 45mpg real measurement at the pump after 100 miles, then 45mpg again after another 100 miles.) Today on a bit longer journey it yielded high 50's on screen, and with some Motorway miles it crept up to 60-62mpg. Any tiny uphill, or junction, and the screen loses 2-5mpg straight away. Average total mpg still around 45mpg. I'll do a real life measurement soon, but this seems to be about what I should expect from now on. I still need to change the diesel filter as I already have the part in the boot, but need to know first if this car has a self-priming pump or if I need to prime the filter when I install it. And this would conclude the full serivce. After that, the plan is to observe O2 sensor, run an injector cleaner, then some cleaning additives and prime diesel every once in a while. Also considering an oil catch can, is it worthwhile on this car? Any other suggestions re: engine/fuel/injection/oil/turbo system health before I finish this topic and move on to the next problem I found (relating probably to the old accident it's had) in a new thread?

Have you heard the horn? It's RIDICULOUS! More troubleshooting: last night unplugged the MAF sensor and drove a bit. It threw an error obviously, with what felt like less power on higher speeds. Gave the sensor a clean and dry and plugged it back in. Driving today. No difference and feels even less powerful if that is even possible. Really slow at acceleration, if any, above 40mph. Plans so far: 0 Cleaned MAF sensor, and can capture 12v and 5V at some terminals but couldn't check for signal output using voltmeter yet. 1. Still haven't decided what bluetooth adapter to get. Money is real tight TBH so better be careful with everything. Need as much live data as possible. Does freezeframe only freeze the frame when an error is recorded? Or can I freeze any frame I want (by pressing a button for example?) the rest is additives. 2. Run a cycle of engline flush product and change the oil. 3. Run a cycle of injector cleaner product. 4. inspect or change the spark plugs. 5. Run a cycle of diesel system cleaner or whatever cheap desparate measure you feel you can sprinkle on top. 6 Whatever you suggest. I asked a mechanic and he said bring the car to plug it in, but didn't tell me the cost. I'm really skint this is why I have to study. Q's for today: 1. Are there any known problems relating to fuel injection or the pedal? You know if the problem was that the engine was trying hard and not moving the car on junction, you'd get a feeling that it's struggling, but it feels more like, it's not responding at all, almost like there is no response to the pedal, for like 2 seconds when I junction, then it returns. 2. Is there any way to reach or move the turbo actuator arm by hand just to wiggle it a bit in case it's stuck?

Do you have a link to existing discussions? It seems to happen mostly when the steering wheel is turned or turning for the junction. I wonder if steering assist power is drawing power from injectors? /Hypothesis.

Quick reply from work. I have the full service kit so the cabin filter is going in anyway. Oil and diesel filters too. I can't wait to change that oil, I have a feeling (or a hope) it will change the feel of the car a lot. Or maybe not . Edit: just popped to the car in the break and pulled the cabinet filter out. Quite dirty if I say so. Popped the new one in (Made in Turkey, no airflow indicator, and only two sides firm instead of four. Might be for the wrong model, or might just be a bad make). But it's white clean, and is now in.

I've just re-read your last entry and understood a bit more. Thank you. I've got a Vcheck report now and can see photos. Report says "cat S structural, nearside and roof" but photos only show nearside small rear triangular window gone. Think they put Cas S instead of Cat N on it to get a definite write off? Oh well, at least there really isn't anything "structurally" wrong with it so my eyes weren't decieving me. Need to look at the roof in the morning now. Seems to have been bought by someone just after salvage, kept for a month (repaired for profit for sure) then sold to an owner who kept it for over year, then to last owner, then to me. Mileage discrepancy also detected in 2015: 34K, then 63K, then 40000 sharp, then starts to build up normally from there. 40K is marked red, but I'm thinking it's the 63K that may have been misentered. This is all trivia by now, most likely. That rules out any relation to previous salvage history to current issue. Whining noise is constant and does not change regardless of anything. Ever. Until I turn the car off. When I had my Citroen C3 a long time ago there was a small beep similar to that that I thought was coming from the ECU, a bit less noticeable than this one. This is similar but it does noticeably "rise" in the first 3 seconds. I tried to do the locate-noise-by-dipping-nose-under-hood protocol, or even listen for the turbo up close, but there's only me here and my legs are neither long nor made of rubber, so this will only have to wait until I can have someone rev while I listen under the bonnet.

My seller is a private seller who's had the car since 2019. If they had an accident in their time, they would have noticed. And if it was marked before they bought it, they would have known and would have told me. I am wrestling my mind to remember 100% if I did (been viewing many cars in the last weeks), but I do recall asking if it had a category write-off on it and they said no. They DEFINITEYL did not mention it in the listin gdescription, which they should have, and the listing was removed post-sale. Now. Moving forward. MPG is lower than advertised expectations, and pick up after revs drop upon a near stop (traffic light or mostly junctions) is near dead sometimes. What could it be. By the way, where the heck is the turbo in this car? And shouldn't that thing give a distinct turbo sound when revs go up? Any input on what the noises are which I've linked in my first comment above? The constant whine after startup, and the ticking after turning off electrics.

Thanks guys. Older filter was a german brand. New one is generic. I did not change anything else or clean up anything else. Upon visual inspection I cannot find any rips or disconnections and it generally looks to be in good condition. The engine doesn't seem to have been jetwashed, but is relatively clean. I'd have thought this was simply a well maintained car. BUT. Surprise I got today. I got the V5C document to my address today, and it clealy says the car was a salvage category at some point due to "structural damage" but has been declared fit for repair following a technical evaluation. I feel... different things right now. The seller basically lied. And I failed to see this detail (was viewing the damn thing at night because that was the only opportunity), and I did not get an HPI report because the opportunity was too damn narrow. But still, the seller had lied. Did I over pay? Maybe more so now that I found this out. But I cannot for the life of me figure out what could have been wrong with it. It does not seem to have any structural impact. I'll search for the best report to buy to see if I can get any info on this. Any tips on the best way for finding out just exactly why it was recorded as salvage? I want the most detail I can get. ===== Yesterday night I went for a short stroll at 2am, did a few motorway miles (one junction) reached 55mpg and then coasted my way back home to 60mpg. That was night road and literally no stops, all traffic lights opened to me. Today I stopped at the same diesel pump to fill up, 103 miles from a full tank, and I topped up back to full. What do you think I did? 4L/100miles? 5? 6? 10 f***ing litres! The reading on the screen is not inaccurate. I'm now starting to worry. I'd been trying to find a clean car for just over 11 weeks due to job, with no opportunity to even view any, and now that I finally thought I got what I was looking for, turns out there might be more hidden for me than I bargained for. Then again, this whole saga might simply be a game of expectations. Maybe I'm wrong about all this and this car just sucks by design. Unlike the Octavia II Greenline which I cannot fault. I still can't accept no pull at junctions, that's plain dangerous. Is there anyone with the same car in Nottingham who would allow me to compare?

Question re: air filter was not about what frequency is normal. It was about whether it is normal for it look dark grey when changed frequently. The only reason why I'm asking is because it may help indicate how it's been driven by previous owner. I'm simply collecting info right now. if it's normal, then I will eliminate that factor. If it's not, then maybe the car was not maintained that well and it may indicate further problems down the air intake. More observations: voltage at battery terminals with car off: just over 12v. Voltage at battery terminals with car on: 14.8v. Alternator must be ok. Maybe Stop-Start isn't Possible is because of battery voltage then? As I can't find another reason for it not to work. I've gone through the list of conditions for it not to work. With new air filter and proper tyre pressure: the car is rolling alright on an easy straight road at low speeds (20-40mph max). There is "some" marginal improvement but no chance to test higher speeds yet. I'm still only seeing average MPG on the screen not much over 40mpg at best, and often in the 30's. When people talk about their MPG here, do they mean real world measure, or on-screen readings? It took 2 hours of easy driving in town to see 50mpg on that LCD. On the other hand, from a full tank, I've just seen the first fuel-gauge dash go out at 79.5 miles today. I'm guessing if fuel consumption is OK, I should expect around 600-650 miles from that tank. Also note, I'm observing MPG as it may indicate a problem or may relate to the problem I'm having above, or not, so it helps to know what to expect.

You don't say! That doesn't indicate you've read the post or attempted to answer the question. Thanks for passing by though. It is now only a question of which Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to go for. There's the £99 one, and there's the £5 one. Will need to know if the the cheap ones are very limited in what data they can read, and also if the expensive one is just expnsive because of marketing without practical benefits. More to look up. Sigh.

Mini update: I found all tyres at 2.0 bar pressure. Pumped them up to 2.5 bar, all four, which improved the way the car rolls a bit (duh). Tried to roll the car with my hand to test for caliper binding. It rolled. I was able to turn the rear wheel with one hand. Doesn't roll far obvs. So that rules out caliper binding, I guess? Got a Wynn's Diesel EGR cleaning solution from Halfords and sprayed that in, and changed the engine air filter to a new one while I was at it. New filter is white. Old filer was dark grey, is that normal for 1 year of use? I was plannign to change the oil and oil filter but didn't get to it. Maybe next weekend. Will see how it fares until then. Got a new fuel filter in the kit as well, I'll have to google how. Any idea what the sounds I've posted above are? 3 YouTube videos in the 1st comment above.

Interesting. Is there any knowlege base about the kind of problems that people were having after the "fix" on this car? I checked your link and could only see people complaining about the politics and economics of the discourse of "saving the planet", and I'm not looking to engage that at the moment.

What difference does it make knowing now? Or more like... if it's been done, what should I do, and if not what should I do? Have you heard of them redoing it if that was the issue?

I also just tried revving the car on stand still. Didn't go beyond 3K RPM, but it does go over 3K RPM when it's moving. I tried on the Octavia, and it won't go over 2.5K on standstill, so I guess this is just a safety limiter, not a turbo fault indicator. Does the Turbo in the 1.2 TDI sound the same as in the Octavia 1.6 TDI? Because I can clearly hear it kick in in the Octy, but can't hear turbo sounds in the Fabia. I reiterate, it seems to drive fine except when I slow down to a near stop and try to pick up again, especially when emerging from junctions, the engine seems to go "nope. Let me think. Yeah maybe. Okay I think I'll go. Hold on a sec, there." It takes so long it has potential to get me in an accident when emerging.

Just clicked the link, clicked check my car, entered VIN and it says "this car is not affected."