First off, a quick thank you to everyoen who helped me in my first thread.

Second, my 2011 Fabia Greenline II 1.2 TDI CR still has a couple issues I've discovered while doing the maintenance relating to the previous topic.

 

First small problem: there is a light bulb warning light on the dashboard that's always on, but all light bulbs I've found in the car, outside, inside, and in the boot, seem to be ok. There are no codes. Any ideas?

 

 

Second,

 

The car has had S-Structrual Damage category in its history, marked as "damage to roof" but I could only find a small crack to what might just be paint on the roof, or is that the metal sheet?

 

 

But then there is an issue I dicovered later. The left side rear door seal dosn't seem to fit just right, and one window frame column is actually different (polished finish as opopsed to matte finish compared to other right side door. I missed it at first, but using the flash light at night made it appear quite clearly.) so maybe the door is off, or the roof is. And when it rained, I checked under the boot, where the spare wheel is, and surely there was a bit of water accumulating in the corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are no signs inside the car of water leak having caused any marks in the past, and so far there is no rust that I can see. But I don't want either of these two things to happen, and surely the car mists a lot inside. A. Lot.

 

So, I'll attach photos of the damage I found, and ask your opinion. Is it the roof, door or the column? And what should I do? Replace the door? not worry about it? Is the crack on the roof just paint or metal?

Any insight helps.

I'm no expert when it comes to evaluating crash damaged cars but if I may suggest that it took a side-on shunt at some point, damaging the B-Pillar or similar. 

 

There's another thread opened recently discussing water leaks in the spare wheel well in the MkII section that may be of assistance to you.

 

Hope this helps.

Another area to check are the vents that are in the body behind the rear bumper.

 

A friend had a mk2 Fabia where the boot and spare wheel well would fill with water. 

 

After a lot of tracing using the hose, found that one of these had been cracked from a previous graze with a gate post when she was reversing. Bumper was slightly scratched, but nothing looked broken from the outside.

 

After stripping down the boot interior, we found that when water ran down, it would track along down by the lights, and then in through the vent, where it then found its way along down to the spare wheel well.

 

Given that the car has been written off, it would be prudent to check they are not letting water in.

 

 

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by softscoop

That crack is filler on the roof and it needs fixing before water gets under it.

 

I agree that the B pillar also looks to be misaligned, the gloss finish on the door pillar is just a sticker.

 

Clearly the car has been bought as spares or repair and then repaired as cheaply as possible, my guess is they didn't bother to motoline the bodyshell or panel beat the roof properly and just slapped a load of pug over it.

9 hours ago, KingRoach said:

The left side rear door seal dosn't seem to fit just right, and one window frame column is actually different (polished finish as opopsed to matte finish compared to other right side door. I missed it at first, but using the flash light at night made it appear quite clearly.) so maybe the door is off, or the roof is.

I'm fairly sure that door has been replaced, making me think there's a replacement in there. Reasoning includes (from your photo) missing roof edge seal, different finish window frame, I think the window sill on that door looks slightly out of line... Try looking along the body from a fine angle for ANY repeat ANY signs of a panel misalignment (up/down or in or out at either end) and/or any difference at all in the alignment of the metallic particles in the paint. This is your job because you have physical access to your car,

See Cocain's video. -

 

 

 

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by nta16

Also as you've replaced the cabin filter you know where to find and remove it so just check it and around there and the heater inlet for water getting in.

 

For the light bulb warning, that might be connected to water but normally water and electrics mean a short and something blows.  Does it show for something like glovebox light (if it has one) or other small light like rear courtesy or boot lights(?).

 

Again perhaps a scan tool might clear this but I'm not sure about that especially if it's a broken wire or connection somewhere.

 

 

22 minutes ago, nta16 said:

For the light bulb warning, that might be connected to water but normally water and electrics mean a short and something blows.

 

That is not actually correct for a 12v system, for sure any water in an electronic module will stop it functioning and more often than not kill it either through reverse biasing a semi-conductor or corrosion, the water alone will not cause a short circuit blowing a fuse.

 

The survival advice advice for anyone in a vehicle that has ended up in a canal lake etc and sunk is not so valid with modern electronics (explained later) but was to turn on the headlamps and interior lights so you can see and be seen, they will (back then) work normally and leave the ignition on, after letting the interior floor equalising the pressure open the door to exit, if it is obstructed (vehicle upside down etc) then open the window, electric windows will (back then) still function.

 

Of course now with electronic door control modules, body control modules, lighting modules its unlikely that any of these things would respond to switch commands.

 

When I have recommissioned vehicles after flooding it has been rare to encounter blown fuses from short circuits.

 

Salt water is another story especially with battery operated torches etc, that creates instant electrolysis.

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by J.R.

I accept I made a lazy quick generalisation in a hit 'n' run post I was thinking of possibly poor wiring or protection from possibly poor repairs to the vehicle, and perhaps something with a rear light cluster but Cocain's video would cover that anyway.

 

Apologises for being wrong and the correction is taken in good humour.

 

 

looks to me that the front door needs adjusting...........where I have arrowed its to far out, so maybe needs the latch adjusting and or the frame. Should be easy enough to get a lot better.

13 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

looks to me that the front door needs adjusting

I see what you mean, but note my post from 3 hours back. We can't actually tell which door needs adjusting from these photos.

think you can, in the picture above you can clearly see the top rubber seal is "proud" of the roof line, it should be sat "up / under" the roof edge, as on the back door.

 

EDIT :-

 

see the O/S is as it should be on both doors..

 

 

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by UrbanPanzer

Having a British Leyland product I noticed the door seems to me in that photo to be reasonably flush for shutting at latch comparing with rear door, assuming rear door is fitted well or reasonably, but slightly dropped (or rear door is slightly raised) so I wondered about fitment at hinges but there could be a few contributing fitment errors.  Perhaps the top seal is also fitted wrong but I've no idea if that is actually the case.

 

If it was a BL Mini I expect part of the body shop work would include dropping the window and putting a slight contour bend to the window frame. 😄

 

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by nta16

Previous post is spot on looks like a combination of a really badly fitted door as it's both dropped and out of line could even be a trplacement door off  another car hinges need adjudting so door reaches the top of the door opening top frame also needs adjusting you could wind window down and try pushing the frame back into position but better to slacken torx bolts adjust the frame correctly and retighten bots found out myself better not to slacken bolts to much as frame if to loose will spring out and not hold if screws are to loose it's a combination of pushing and see if it stays moved beforetightening bolts right up

Water in boot well is possibly the vents as shown had this issue on a mates mk2 estate and it was indeed incorrect fitted seals around the rubber flaps after a rear shunt garage did not know what they were doing and removed them but did not fit them back correctly hence water leaking in the boot, the only other water issue was a damaged seal gasket under the light fitting (well actually no gasket)

 

Personally, if the door shuts well and doesn't leak or cause any other problems (trapped, frayed wires or wotever) it would have very low priority with me.  The boot leak needs sorting and there are other checks I'd put first - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety and driving electrics and glass (widows and mirrors, so sorting leak is in with that).  Engine in top condition is later and door shut a luxury.  😄

 

I wonder if KingRoach has a partner that will climb in the boot to find the leak like another poster, that was great and possibly a sign of early times together, after a few years and decades you just get' the look' at such suggestions. 🤣

 

35 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I wonder if KingRoach has a partner that will climb in the boot to find the leak like another poster, that was great and possibly a sign of early times together, after a few years and decades you just get' the look' at such suggestions. 🤣

 

Don't have a partner, however, my Grandad got the hose and sprayed the back bumper/tailgate area on mine as I watched for water running in from the inside. Of course, we found the leak with one of the seals letting in water. Bit of bathroom sealant and some air fresheners to deal with the smell and bam, no more small lochs in the wheel well.

Okay so a bit of a catch up. May upload photos but here's a run down.

The near side rear door is off. The other three are true. In the pictures it shows you how it seems to be pushed further in. The hinges bolts on that door are clearly tampered with, and there seems to be a bit of a "slide" marks in positioning at the hinge.

The roof seal of the rear door looks much shorter only becasue it's pressed in. The seal is squeezed under the roof.
 

I've loosened the bolts and tried positioning it better, and retightened. It is slightly imporved but still not perfect. I don't know if there is an art to getting this right. I can get the top to align, but the bottom sticks out. If I open the door, I can move it in an out on the hinge further, but when closed, which is the position I need to tighten the bolts, it's about fitted as much as I can push it in near the bottom, or out near the top.

I have no one who trusts me enough to go into the trunk of a car. haha. But anyway, I might do what the video in the other post did and undo the rear bumper and check those channels. Silicone sealant, then?

 

In other news, I've replaced the fan blower resistor so I can have the fan blowing on 1, 2 and 3 (healps clear the windshield without the noise of 4), and lo and behold, Start/Stop suddenly works?!!! I'm guessing something to do with the system resetting due to having the battery disconnected, possibly. But the light bulb dash light is still there.

Photos:

 

A cold morning helped me look to see if there is any moisture leaking through the door seals. All looked good except this corner, in front of the offending door:

 

 

 

Here you can see hinge has some signs of sliding, in the direction which means the door is pushed further in. This is the top hinge.

The bottom hinge has no mark that I could see, but while the top of the door (window) is pushed in, the bottom of the door sticks out a bit.

 

 

I thought I took a photo of how it looks now, but clearly I havne't. So might come back with a photo.

You could spend hours getting the door worse than it was the perhaps better or back to where you started, the door could be out of true or the car or both, the damage to roof might explain it or the description of damage not comprehensive.  As I put personally, if the door shuts well and doesn't leak or cause any other problems (trapped, frayed wires or wotever) it would have very low priority with me for the reasons you might be discovering but if you've improved it, great.

 

For the bulb being alight, if you've not got a scan tool try the following quick, free, easy thing, if it works, and it might not, great, if it doesn't work so what, what have you really lost trying, I know you disconnected the battery but for how long and did you also try the touchy bit. - 

 

 

 

15 hours ago, KingRoach said:

In other news, I've replaced the fan blower resistor so I can have the fan blowing on 1, 2 and 3 (healps clear the windshield without the noise of 4), and lo and behold, Start/Stop suddenly works?!!! I'm guessing something to do with the system resetting due to having the battery disconnected, possibly. But the light bulb dash light is still there.

Or it might be the start/stop needs full control over the blower motor and didn't think it had it, the VW programs are over-complicated and very invasive especially the start/stop program - try that battery thing above and make sure your car battery charge never gets too low and upsets those VW computer programs.