zzonyx

Fitted a BOSCH Aero aftermarket set (for original Octavia I arms). They cost 28€ vs. 25€ for the original set, brought little if any improvement. After 1 yr they seem worn. A local retailer (in NW Italy) had told me he didn't carry the BOSCH line any more as it wasn't good enough - couldn't believe my ears at the time, now I know better... Before long I expect to move on to an Octavia 2 diesel (currently: a '99 110 BHP TDI break, 214,000 km/133,000 mi, zero oil consumption, 5.8 L/100 km or 17.3 km/L or 48 mpg, unbeatable performance/cost ratio; the only problem was the wiper linkage).

Based on my past experience with wipers, I'd also bet on linkage. You probably have some drag in it, 90% due to friction in the bushings (seems to be comon to many Octavias). I fixed mine (braking it in the process and repairing with a metal broomstick!), it lasted for 2 years and eventualy had to replace it (not the motor) - have even some pics of it, but couldn't insert here. The new linkage is likely to cost less than all the trial-and-error you've done so far. And you'll know when it works - no juddering, just smooth, quiet (and faster) wiping in all weather conditions and at any speed, Aero or otherwise.

I also own an Octavia Mk. 1 break and a Thule strap-on bike rack. I prefer removing just the rear blade - hassle free (removing/replacing the fuse may be tricky, the entire arm - out of question). It works fine with my rack as the arm doesn't interfere with the straps. Make sure you put an inch of plastic tube on the arm terminal, just in case you inadvertently activate the rear wiper, otherwise you might permanently scar the glass.

Got a SW Octavia and a similar problem. The suggestions were AGAINST roof bike carriers, reasons being air drag, difficult lifitng/lowering, so I bought a THULE rear carrier - it takes up to three bikes - there are models to fit most cars (have yet to try it, though). For some types of bikes (e.g. some, not all ladies' models) a horizontal bar may be required. There are several models in diff finishes and prices. There were alternatives but, what I liked most with this product was clear product documentation available on-line. However, before deciding check the law in your country - where I live (Italy),the bike carrier rules have recently been changed (EU compatibility), introducing limits to the excess width of the carrier+bike ***'y which in any case shouldn't obstruct rear lights and license plate (the latter is not easy to achive in some cars). One important aspect: in most cases the rear wiper arm should be removed as the carrier has two rubber supports which interfer with the swept area. If you're lucky, you may get away with removing just the wiper blade (a no-tools operation). Be sure to put 2 cm (1 in) of light plastic sleeve (hose or similar) at the arm terminal to prevent scratching the screen in case the stalk is accidentaly moved. An alternative is to remove the fuse - but first check which other services, if any, are affected. HTH

Wonder if this may help, but I've gone through a similar experience with the rear wiper on my SW: erratic, snappy rotation, not slow-down. It seemed like wiring trouble, not a mechanics (motor) problem. I decided to ignore it and it eventually disappeared. The more I used it, the less it failed. Could it be a dirty/sleepy (relay) contact? I'll never know, and it's worked well now for two years or so. For obvious reasons, you can't afford to do the same. Before spending anything, I'd try this: with all systems off (no contact), work first the intermittence lever on the stalk end-to-end for say 10 - 15 times; do the same with the wiper control (stalk) between 0 and I (intermittent operation) positions. This helps remove oxide and/or dirt from switch contacts. Try the normal intermittent operation and see if the problem is still there. If not, you win, but before leaving, switch off the ignition and spray some contact spray (better if you have the marine type) into the contacts of both controls (they are not easily accessible, but don't soak it) and work them again for 2...3 times as described before. If the problem persists, try the relay route by replacing the relay (the wiring diagram helps here) with a borrowed or old working one OF THE SAME KIND and see what happens; depending on the result, replace the old one or ... keep looking for the cause, you're not yet there - this is where I have to bow out for lack of experience and/or ideas. Anyway, good luck and let me know.

Found this forum unexpectedly (the BRI... reduces somewhat the odds). A problem posted by a member made me log in, so this is actually my 2nd post; hope you don't mind. I live in Italy and own a 2nd-hand 1999 Octavia I, TDI (81kW/110 DIN HP), 195000 km, no significant problems, a real no-frills workhorse and excelent value for money. I follow also a SKODA forum in Germany. Best rgds, zzonyx

I had the same problem on my '99 Octavia about a year ago. The reason was the loose rubber sleeve around the right-hand side wiper arm shaft which should keep water out; it hadn't and the shaft stuck, causing the motor to overheat abd wipers to slow down - this would have probably resulted in motor failure. Before proceeding, make sure you have plenty of time and patience, good lighting, some (basic) tools and parts/consumables, depending on what you find (see further text for details). The procedure is as follows: make sure the wipers are in their off position determined by the control switch; remove the wiper arm caps using a medium-sized screwdriver; remove the two nuts using a socket wrench (13mm, I think); remove the black plastic cover under the windshield (it consists of two halves, start working at the sides of the windshield rubber and proceed toward the center using your fingers only - working in a warm environment helps); remove the wiper arms using a small bearing remover; if you don't have one at hand (my case), work patiently from all sides - the shaft is conical and splined, it seizes easily; if you can't do it, try some penetrating lubricant, e.g. WD40 and leave it for an hour or so; if you DO have to use a hammer, make sure it's a light plastic or rubber one and proceed VERY carefully; separate the motor connector, remove the three bolts (10mm wrench) which hold the wiper motor support and linkage assembly; remove the assembly by lifting and rotating it out of its recess; put it in a bench vise or similar; to establish which of the two shafts is stuck, remove first the ball joint from one wiper shaft crank (pry with a screwdriver), check the rotation by hand, than from the other; the stuck shaft should be first lubricated with WD40 or similar and rotated by hand to free it; if it doesn't roatete as easily as the other side, disassemble the shaft by removing the circlip and rotating+pulling by hand to the crank side (this takes time and patience, mine was a desperate case and I broke the light-alloy arm in the process, so take it easy); clean, remove rust, if any, smooth/polish with emery cloth or similar, lubricate with an anti-seize lubricant (I used the high-temp copper-colored stuff, but Molycote is also ok - don't use oil as it will eventually get washed away); reassemble the shaft and check that it moves as freely as the healthy side; reconnect the crank joint(s) and proceed in reverse order, but: pay attention at the rubber sleeves - if available, install a new pair; before reinstalling the covers and wiper arms, check the system for regular operation - use the wiper control to swithc on and off, do not cut the contact at the key, or the wipers won't return to the original position; if all is ok, check the following: check the condition of cab ventilation filter, it might need replacing, and this is the best moment to do it; also check for dry leaves and debris, they collect in the angles behind the firewall and obstruct drainage openings; install the rubber sleeves and plastic covers; lubricate the wiper shaft splines using a small amount of the grease you used before (this will help whoever has to do this again, hopefully after you've sold the car), reinstall the arms; torque the nuts to 20 Nm (if you don't have a torque wrench, don't overtighten, conical surfaces don't need a lot of torque) and recap them. There's a good DIY manual on Octavia I (unfortunately, in German only, but decently illustrated, i.e. self-explanatory in most cases), by H.R. Etzold, "So wird's gemacht" (=This is how it's done), published by Delius Klasing Verlag, Germany 2002 (www.delius-klasing.de). That's about it, HTH - let me know. zzonyx