Davidmb

Taking that route I would need a hydraulic spring press x2 front struts and coils - as don't want imbalanced suspension or to do the job twice (e.g. strut failure). Definitely will buy a hydraulic spring compressor though at some point. However: Time x money 170,000 miles on clock Undiagnosed Smoke Emissions issue - although maybe related to a vibration issue that is maybe vacuum related.... No fault codes. 5 months MOT left. Not a PD130 Hence my desire to find a good condition used part. But yeah if it was a low mileage fabia vrs my approach would be very different. Re other codes I assume all this info is on ETKA?

Thanks for this information it is gold. Luckily the sticker in boot near spare wheel was legible enough to see most codes. Will make sure I look out for that sticker in the used car market... My suspension is standard 2UA so I am guessing this is colour code: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0411105aq-suspension-spring-front-axle-sachs-35548.html 1x orange, 4x blue or 1x purple, 1x orange, 1x blue. Smartest play seems to find a good-used, OEM equivalent, standard 1.9 TDI Octavia/Passat/Audi A4/MK5 Golf estate front-strut and coil - as I am guessing that the extra weight of an estate will mean a spring coil difference from hatch/saloon models? I know that I should replace both, with new struts and springs, and may well do... but close MOT, and Emissions last year were close. Need to investigate that can of worms first, and keep my eye on eBay as a get out of jail card - As I am now in a 1.2 12V Polo and the power sucks. Thanks for all your help.

Thanks for the reply. I aim to buy a good condition strut with coil (I don't have a hydraulic spring compressor yet... and the hand tightening ones I do, just scare me...) I guess the only critical difference would be the spring coil itself between different type and weight engines and different weight cars (saloon/estate.) I think spring coils are colour coded but the broken one is too corroded to see. The right side looks like an aftermarket one. As its the front I plan to find a front left from a 1.9 diesel (saloon or estate.) I think that should be ok? Or try to find the actual colour code if possible? I don't have ETKA. Or should I hold out for one taken from an estate?

Quick question: Does the Skoda Octavia Elegance estate 2005 MK2 share the same front suspension as Skoda saloons, golf's etc as long as the oem is the same e.g. VWA 1K0413031BF Or is that too simplified and other numbers come into play?

Thanks for the input. If not now, see below, one day I will need the sound info for my amateur pursuits. Still no one answered whether anyone ever replaced piston rings successfully in a VAG vehicle? Or any vehicle? Anyway this is funny. My sister who drives the Fabia, who I earnestly (lots of swear words tbf,) beg to tell me if there are any changes in car - so they can be looked at, tonight let slip that she has been driving without 5th gear (easy fix - probably got info on this site) So my guess ATM is driving from Cornwall to Bristol on the motorway and back at 70 in 4th is the actual burning oil issue. Doing the sex proud.

What do you mean by this?

Anyone had success with engine tear down and rebuild to solve this issue? Or is it just easier to find a lower milage engine? Furthermore, has anyone ever replaced piston rings successfully in a VAG vehicle? - I.e runs for another 50k or more. Or any vehicle for that matter? Is it possible to diagnose a valve seal burning oil over piston rings? And is it worth fixing if time and skill are not a factor?

Not a problem just a different sensor and a different strategy. Hence new topic. Regards.

I would start a new post this is a different issue.

As the question asks is there a list of the coded items that enthusiasts can catalogue in case of future problems I.e. getting the power steering pump code before failure? Etc.... etc... etc... If not could we start a list?

Update to this. Fitted window now. On reflection I should have bought new grommets as reusing old brittle ones made install a total pain (one was ok but the other I got like 75% in and decided that was enough...) Also buy the right rivets from Skoda as they are huge and not standard. The official manual was pants.... I recommend taking speaker out so you can hold the grommets at back when pushing in the insert. Skinny hands will help the far one. Use a few bolts or rivlets to secure panel rather than fitting rivets completely back as easy to push grommets into door recess and then have to start again at the beginning... Hope this helps anyone stupid enough to lock keys in car or not to have glass insurance....

A new sensor resolved the issue. Thankfully not the pump but took code anyway. Thanks for the help everyone.

Thank you so much just ordered the window from a local scrap yard. Waiting on this and a steering position sensor. Christmas Post.... In time being as I have to get to work fasioned this with perspex... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qFHWs2IsZnNGLLUNJMBvFUaNiCYUD6uV/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks for insight... Broken wires on flexi a very common problem on cars this age. Mine included (especially when relying on solder versus buying a new loom segment...) A worst problem still is when the latch seizes shut or cable breaks and then I guess it's time for the grinder and a new door. Looking into key coding now.

Answer: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/175069-automotive-window-glass-codes.html According to this post it's the year of manufacture... (label 7)

Oh I misunderstood I thought you had a problem you needed resolving... lol. Now I just need to learn how to code keys on vcds so to lessen the chance of breaking a window in future....

Could you describe your problem please?

My keys were left inside and I must have accidentally pressed the lock button somehow. When shutting the door I was locked out. I tried wedging the door open and using a long rod to open the doors...but the deadlock was engaged - so pulling handle did nothing.... Once I had my keys no issue at all - apart from needing to replace glass...

After a little key accident and an annoying dead lock that could not be opened by 3 different door catches.... I need to replace my window. On the picture below the last number 9 is that important? What does it mean? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1px_BzhIo_MjD6fDxV_C_BUIlDNQh9NxO/view?usp=drivesdk As I have found glass on ebay with the number 5 at the end, and wondered if it was compatible.

Thanks for reply. Ok cool re sensor, I ordered one last night but was trying to do some early prep in case it's the pump (or for when that arises...). Don't suppose you can get a pump part number from VCDS? I was lucky getting the sensor part number tbh. Or maybe I can get a pump to match the sensor? There were signs of some water near over the pump connectors but I cleaned them thoroughly with isopropyl and compressed air - and no corrosion at all. The angular sensor and the void was clogged a bit with limescale though. The only other electrical fault is a HVAC 01317 Control Module in Instrument Cluster and a temporary shaking speedo at zero (for 20's) - I am going to check the main earth points but think its unrelated to this issue. Obviously will update my findings.

Here is some more information: Turning steering wheel I get no changes in Steering Aid Sensor angular velocity: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f9RPT7gXniQSG_6CEKJTBslHIr3-T1bY/view?usp=sharing Steering aid sensor voltage too low: Pump voltage increases when turning steering https://drive.google.com/file/d/1itqgXNLw3cZfoNR4KlQ-IWM-gCY4--cY/view?usp=sharing Fault code shown: (Also clear no voltage): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XUJ0iTY5T4hL7CrgCcfjjkv3mfyKd5Bv/view?usp=sharing So the question is, do these symptoms suggest a failed sensor or pump or can they be symptomatic of both?

I have a fabia 07 1.2 with the power sensor fault. Address 44 Steering Assist Component Lenkhilfe TRW coding 10140 v270 30-10 Open or short to plus I have checked continuity of cable cleaned plugs with Isopropyl. Checked battery voltage (12.5 without alternator). Is only a 40ah battery but battery seems to keep charge. Although visible dimming on headlights when turning power steering. Removed sensor (to figure out part no) which is: 6PD 008 847 00 or 6Q0423445 Symptoms: occasional loss of power steering and fault code persistence. My question is does this sensor ever fail - as circuit board looked pretty sealed and clean or is it always more likely a failed pump? Or something else I could have missed?

Advice taken... However I am thinking of stuffing the mount with rubber or filling with PU91 to lessen movement so I can drive it to the nearest garage with less risk...

Dog mount movement.mp4 Obviously knackered... Thanks for info on time and thus cost Guess it's extremely low revs until a garage can fit me in...

Here is a photo of the bush. There's clearly play and I think evidence of cracks. I don't have a press for the dog bone and they are like £120 to buy. Anyone know time allocated to the job if getting one fitted? I sadly have to weigh up costs... I guess I could remove subframe and ask if a garage could press one in if mental money?