Davidmb

Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram to help me perform a continuity test on these wires as I am getting gremlins on N18 and N75 solenoids in the block.

OK I have managed to successfully complete this job without removing subframe. Here are my tips. Grind head flat. Punch in centre Use colbalt drills. Start with 4mm go up to 8.5mm in 1mm increments. Use a lot of cutting oil. x1 colbalt fluted HSS tap 10x1.5. Tap 1/4 turns, rotate back. Clean and add cutting oil frequently. Be prepared to tap 1hr per hole. Buy genuine bolts. Good luck if you ever need this advice.

Has anyone ever had a wishbone bolt shear in the subframe and found a solution? I have tried welding nuts on the exposed bolt but even these just sheared the bolt lower. I am guessing the ordinal wishbone bolt was cross-threaded or over-tightened or just steel versus aluminium... My head tells me that drilling and tapping under the car will be less than ideal - but has anyone done this? Is this achievable? Since ripping out the whole subframe to get the bolt machined out seems drastic and am worried that more bolts are going to give me worse nightmares 2005 Octavia. Mad that I am considering scraping car over this....

ASZ links are broken

Thanks for info. This is the rear tracking sheet so think it is not a swap from front issue...

Guess these could be assessed pretty easily on a ramp?

As there is no rear tow adjustment on the MK1 VRS. What are the main causes for rear inner tyre wear?

Any chance a microswitch can knock all out or is that fuse or unit?

Update I used a combination of 12 point 3/4 and 1/4 sockets and extension bars and the housing is now off. Bottom right is the most awkward...Also removed speed sensor ready to fit new part. I understand people reuse the bolts despite guidance to always replace... but what about the gasket. It looks undamaged imo. I guess not worth the risk for the cost.

I think I have found an answer to this question. The oil cooler has to come off as I cannot get access to the sensor bolt anyway... The cooler pipe is in the way... So I won't need to re-route as can fit properly after getting oil housing off. Guess I need a new gasket? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184320-octavia-ii-19tdi-pd-engine-speed-sensor/#findComment-4440290 Fault code is implausible signal and wiring looks good so pretty sure it is sensor failure. Original 12 point bolt, not been replaced. Anything I need to be mindful about on this?

Hello Everyone, Can I re-route the new sensor in front of the oil cooler housing as I cannot get the plug or sensor past it and think I will have to cut out the old one?

Yeah I just think I got unlucky. The other side which is relatively new is the same brand and no issues there. But if it was a low mileage VRS I'd get genuine tbh and avoid after market.

BGA automotive

The otherside has no movement at all. Certainly far too much play, I am returning part. Problem started as soon as fitted new shaft.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13uEQ46v2yWVo9vKPs1C-jOjwbdN6KiPh/view?usp=drivesdk Fitted a new drivers side driveshaft and drove car and noticed unholy vibrations at 3000rpms. Jacked car and as you can see from the video the shaft has significant movement. Is this a failed part or something else? Any info appreciated.

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/oct/753/301300/ Going by this diagram has to be...

Is the location highlighted in image the gearbox oil filler plug on octavia mk2 elegance estate?

For those of you that ever need to answer this question:

Milage 100,000 1 cylinder down 55psi. Oil in spark chamber test increased compression by 20psi. Worst news IMO... Anyone mad enough to try with any luck or feedback?

Ordered part number 1KO 407 271 CP In installation guide to the BGA driveshaft it states: 'Always Use a New Snap Ring to manufacturers specification' Does this mean I have to replace the one already fitted with a new Skoda Snap ring? If so is there a tool as my circlip pliers were useless on the old one. Got it off on a vice and flathead...but how to put back on as experiment. No way touch new yet... Mmmmm gearbox oil residue. What a joke. Anyway I ordered the clips, as cheap, but do they really need to go on? Looking a the driveshat bolts are they really one shot. Look more like alloy than steel? Lots of question trying to figure this out as a hobbiest... Have I bet on the right horse lol.

Thanks for taking the time to list this. Smartest move I made for a myriad of parts questions was a 24hr subscription to partslink24. Should be week for the cost though...However, saved me a lot of money and time. And other people's time when plenty of real mechanical problems to solve abound.

Ironically the hardest part of getting the strut/coil/wheelbearing seperated was the struts top three bolts engine side. Absolute pig, rust meant nuts unwelded and rounded. The wheel bearing reported as 'slightly noisy' is toast as the internals seperated far too easily. Discs all round definitely a future priority if pass. Drive shaft pivot feels lumpy but not totally gone yet... But tempting to replace. However... North Cornwall's rain and occasional salty air is unforgiving on motors... Need a submarine company to make UK cars lol... But yeah if it was a more sort-after car, lower miles, etc...I would as a matter of course replace with new struts/coils/driveshafts/discs all around as rust is a killer and why triple labour time... That's the smartest move for a sort-after older vehicle in a wet climate IMO. For the time-being I will just have to plod on the best I can with worn out machinery... And I will investigate using a piller drill to compress springs. Thanks.

Have you got a photo or link of this as I am quite interested - as searching for a suspension drill press comes up with a lot of random stuff? Also I thought you meant using a drill on the Draper spring clamps lol...

You use a drill on them? Rather than use the hydraulic press? Not sure if I have that much faith in modern metal manufacturing...

Got a pair of those but known as widow makers.... Seriously bad if they fail. I have heard people use two sets for safety... I think I would rather use a floor standing hydraulic one. Which I will get. And the input you provided has been most useful. Obviously I need a copy of ETKA. In the end I got an above average condition strut and coil with 6 months warranty from a 2008 mk5 golf (same OEM and compared weights to octavia saloon) for under £40 delivered.