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Davidmb

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  1. Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram to help me perform a continuity test on these wires as I am getting gremlins on N18 and N75 solenoids in the block.
  2. OK I have managed to successfully complete this job without removing subframe. Here are my tips. Grind head flat. Punch in centre Use colbalt drills. Start with 4mm go up to 8.5mm in 1mm increments. Use a lot of cutting oil. x1 colbalt fluted HSS tap 10x1.5. Tap 1/4 turns, rotate back. Clean and add cutting oil frequently. Be prepared to tap 1hr per hole. Buy genuine bolts. Good luck if you ever need this advice.
  3. Has anyone ever had a wishbone bolt shear in the subframe and found a solution? I have tried welding nuts on the exposed bolt but even these just sheared the bolt lower. I am guessing the ordinal wishbone bolt was cross-threaded or over-tightened or just steel versus aluminium... My head tells me that drilling and tapping under the car will be less than ideal - but has anyone done this? Is this achievable? Since ripping out the whole subframe to get the bolt machined out seems drastic and am worried that more bolts are going to give me worse nightmares 2005 Octavia. Mad that I am considering scraping car over this....
  4. Thanks for info. This is the rear tracking sheet so think it is not a swap from front issue...
  5. Guess these could be assessed pretty easily on a ramp?
  6. As there is no rear tow adjustment on the MK1 VRS. What are the main causes for rear inner tyre wear?
  7. Any chance a microswitch can knock all out or is that fuse or unit?
  8. Update I used a combination of 12 point 3/4 and 1/4 sockets and extension bars and the housing is now off. Bottom right is the most awkward...Also removed speed sensor ready to fit new part. I understand people reuse the bolts despite guidance to always replace... but what about the gasket. It looks undamaged imo. I guess not worth the risk for the cost.
  9. I think I have found an answer to this question. The oil cooler has to come off as I cannot get access to the sensor bolt anyway... The cooler pipe is in the way... So I won't need to re-route as can fit properly after getting oil housing off. Guess I need a new gasket? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184320-octavia-ii-19tdi-pd-engine-speed-sensor/#findComment-4440290 Fault code is implausible signal and wiring looks good so pretty sure it is sensor failure. Original 12 point bolt, not been replaced. Anything I need to be mindful about on this?
  10. Hello Everyone, Can I re-route the new sensor in front of the oil cooler housing as I cannot get the plug or sensor past it and think I will have to cut out the old one?
  11. Yeah I just think I got unlucky. The other side which is relatively new is the same brand and no issues there. But if it was a low mileage VRS I'd get genuine tbh and avoid after market.
  12. The otherside has no movement at all. Certainly far too much play, I am returning part. Problem started as soon as fitted new shaft.
  13. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13uEQ46v2yWVo9vKPs1C-jOjwbdN6KiPh/view?usp=drivesdk Fitted a new drivers side driveshaft and drove car and noticed unholy vibrations at 3000rpms. Jacked car and as you can see from the video the shaft has significant movement. Is this a failed part or something else? Any info appreciated.

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