WelshSkoda93

So, the headliner job turned out to be absolute nightmare, i totally messed it up and binned the lot... If any of you want to DIY it, i advise you pay someone the 200-300 quid for retrim and fitting its an absolute PITA of a job.. Here's the pic of the headliner after tearing the old fabric off. After that it took an hour to clean up the old foam and apply contact adhesive before I tried to put the fabric down and work it along all the shapes and curves. I had my brother to help but we failed miserably. I found someone selling an incomplete black headliner set in Birmingham for £80.. didn't even argue about the price and wasted no time getting and fitting it. colour combo is not too bad: My new struts came with brand new 22mm nuts instead of 20mm ones so i 3d printed adapters for the original covers: Finished product:

wrong forum section

Next up is the headlining.. I will try to DIY this over the coming weekends: I'm really not looking forward to this, but im not paying someone 250 to do it for me:

More work done: New subframe: New control arms and New inner tie rods and track rod ends: New anti roll bar bushes and brackets, old ones were shagged: New top mounts VS old top mounts: New shock absorbers: I have no idea how the shock pinch bolts came out, but they did...: Final result:

Back to work, lots of stuff to fit: Titanic-level rust exhaust clamp replaced: New springs, oem sachs shock absorbers and bolts: Also replaced the bottom washer, only one of them was fitted, i replaced 2: New top mounts and rubber bumps: I also applied bilt hamber wax to the rear beam, springs and wheel arches.

Late xmas presents: Instant gratification:

I've done it 3 times successfully. Remove all the trims and bolts you can, lower the window (if you can) which will allow you to pry off the top of the door card will allow you to drill the lock motor releasing the deadlock or like in my case it will allow you to totally remove the door card and then drill it. Then its a case of fitting a new ebay lock but removing the deadlock mech so it will never happen or cause issues again.

I've been keeping santa busy as well: I'm not looking forward to painting these...

Water has been leaking though the boot lid bump stops straight onto my tools... i used my trusty sikaflex 221 to seal them up: This isn't pretty, but works and keeps the boot dry: Domed nuts and sealant on the other side as well:

Progress has been tough... The brand new front driver side lock has failed, it was the stupid deadlock mech again... I bought another new £25 lock and took it apart, and removed the deadlock from it. Now it just works and is not going to break ever again. I will probably take apart all the doors again and remove the deadlocks from the rest of the door. Door lock taken apart, arrow points to the deadlock. Deadlock removed. It's an extremely poorly designed part, it fails on OEM locks and cheap £25 ebay ones: Deadlockless lock:

manually send 12v to compressor clutch? maybe wire it through a relay to rear demister.

Crimp cut off and wire exposed: Copper cleaned up with vinegar and salt solution: Connector crimped on: Fuse block re-assembled: Total cost of repair, excluding knowledge and tools was around £3.

I got myself a transporter wiper arm and golf mk4 wiper motor. Motor fits fine, but the arm requires some adjustment: I sanded down probably ~1cm from the bottom of the arm: And now it fits: A job for tomorrow will be this, a very common fault. I'll probably go over to screwfix and get some tube crimps:

This is how i waterproofed all of my doors. 1.First of all all the original foil removed, glue residue removed with label remover. 2. First layer of foil applied with the bottom part put inside the door, so that any rain water flows into the door and out through the holes as it should: 3. I then applied a second layer of foil just like the original stuff, using butyl tape to seal it. Notice how i used a single piece of it and routed it above the threaded door card clips: 4. For the front doors I also replaced the standard plastic threaded inserts for speakers with rivnuts, clamping the foil with them as well so it all became very water tight. With the above approach I've been able to permanently stop water getting onto the sills and leaking inside.

Last but not least... working reverse camera with automatic switching to rear view: ASR and Windscreen buttons will be corrected.