WelshSkoda93

Are those tyres you borrowed balanced properly? Does it hapen on all speeds or just at some speeds?

Its the top hole covered by a rubber grommet its hidden inside the hole and kind of hard to see. It takes about 12 turns to release it.

When I was taking out my door locks i Kept the window up and loosened the 'scissor' mechanism screws as i needed to wiggle the lock out. Remember to put the door handle cable anchor things exacty where they were as you may end up with a door that doesn lock/unlock properly. The striker plate bolts are threaded into the body so nothing will fall down

Its in!! thank you very much for your help!

Welshskoda - Cardiff/Thornhill

could you show me the diagrams you have please? this would clear up so much for me.. :)

I do have the 5 pin ring everything is connected as per instructions from kufatec (which is where i got the relay loom) but still horn doesn't work the rest of the buttons do.

What about the yellow cancelling ring connector, I had to remove the +12v horn cable and replace it with 2 others for the buttons on steering wheel to work which they do, but now I have no horn and can't seem to figure out what to do with that leftover cable. As soon as it touches something metal the horn blasts so i know its working properly but there's nothing to connect it to..

In that case you should be able to properly connect the loom and open the door as usual? With these old looms they work fine untill you move them (aka disconnect the cable) and then they crack and split and you can't even tell. I did a continuity test from each pin of the door lock connector to the big wiper motor connector and then from there to the door connector. If that doesn't work try giving the area underneath the external door handle a good thump while pulling on the handle at the same time. If that doesn't work theres a few screws on the door lock you can see from inside the door. Undo as many as you can and then just wedge a big flathead screwdriver in and pry it all apart. It will damage the lock but at least you will have an open door that you can fix properly.

The stalk i have Is a stalk with just the one/off button for the CC there is no other buttons on it. This is what originally came with those MFSW's: Its the middle one: are you saying you wired the standard top one to work with mfsw?

The only way to do it is to force the door card off. remove the big screws behind the door handles and just pull up as hard as you can. The clips that door card screws into will come off but you can put them back as long as your carefull. in the worst case door card will be damaged and you can get a new one for £20-30 on ebay

Hello I've retrofitted a multi function steering wheel with CC to my 2001 ALH Octavia. I activated it in vagcom. When I test all the steering wheel buttons in vagcom they work fine but the CC on/off switch on the stalk doesn't activate the cruise control even though reset, cancel and set test fine in vag com. I used code 11463 to activate CC and now there is a G in the component field meaning that CC is activated in ECU. I've double checked the wiring for the stalk and its ok. I've tested stalk's CC on/off button with a multimeter and it beeps in 'on' and doesn't in off position. Any ideas?

On my octavia the rubber door seal is old and 'sucks in' to the metal especially once its sunny and sometimes takes a very strong push to open the door. You can get door seal oil to prevent this.

Ive had this issue on all 4 doors of my octavia over the space of a year. The door loom especially where it passes through the rubber duct gets old and cables crack. Sometimes the cables look ok but are also rotten inside. Re-do the loom or buy a new one and the door will start working perfectly.

There's two old threads on other forums wherer people have tried this and succeded: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=36555 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=130196 these links may be of help to you

I've just done mine using your guide, thanks!

OK if puddle lights work that rules out the microswitch. You need to check the actual cable runs on all its lenght very carefully. It's not a 5 mintue job. A rotten through cable will look fine on the outside but will look like this on the inside instead of shiny copper you will see a 'green colour' All the cables now will also be very old and stiff & crusty on a 20 year old car: You should remove the whole loom from the door and undo that black 'tape' covering the cable and check everything for continuity and breaks in the outer cable. You should also remove the door lock module and re-seat it. You shouldn't have to worry about cold joints there as that PCB has conformal coating but its worth a look anyway it doesn't cost anytghing. When My rear door lock didn't work I replaced the door lock twice, and the whole window motor assembly twice because I was too lazy too look for broken cables and wasted 2 whole weekends on this job. I'm 99% sure thats whats causing your issue especially the intermittent working, cables will sometimes make a connection due to vibration, humidity and temperature. This isn't a fault where randomly swapping out parts will fix it you have to look at the cables in detail :)

that's a good idea I've already had troubles with rotten and chafed cables with this car. will check it.

if you installed a new regulator and motor they usually have a door lock module there too ( door lock and door loom all come from the same connector) and this would need pairing with the ECU to work properly. This is the part of the window motor I'm on about: As far as the interior light not working its down to a micro switch thats worn out. (make sure its not the bulb first and see if the puddle lights in door cards light up if you open the door) I've replaced all 4 in mine for a peace of mind there's tonnes of guides on how to do it. Very often its cheaper to buy a whole new lock and replaced it than to buy a micro switch. Another issue I've had with mine whenever somethings works intermittently is either cables that are corroded inside or chafed cables especially where the cables pass from the door into the cars body through the rubber boots if you like:

I bought a skoda octavia 1u with rear wiper not working. I then noticed that rear wiper fuse was taken out so I've put one in and the rear wiper still didn't work. I then replaced the motor which solved the issue of it not working but now after i switch on the rear wiper, it will not stop working until I at least dab the front windscreen wash/nozzles. The wiper doesn't just come on as soon as i start the car I have to switch in on first. Is this a stalk fault or relay fault? has anyone come across this before? I've connected the car to VCDS and found no errors.

So all I'd need on a 2002 Ambiente is the relay and steering wheel? is there any programming involved?

Update: So the arm rest that I bought from the link above which was 2x the price of the one that the other person posted was EXACTLY the same even though it said its a straight fit for an Octavia and had to be modified. For anyone reading this in the future and wanting to do it here's a few pics: For those wondering how the metal bracket has to be modified, ive forgotten to take the picture of mine but i found one on the internet and outlined the "ridge" that has to be cut. Its doable with a hacksaw if you know what you're doing.

I've seen this one and it doesn't say it fits an Octavia and id rather pay more than have to chop up a bracket for the 12v lighter, thats what I've managed to read up.

UPDATE: I've managed to find this kit for 55 euro in Germany and ordered it. I'll report back once I get it and install it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132032415382?ViewItem=&item=132032415382

Thanks for your answers. Were you able to get a factory fit/finish even though the armrests were pieced together?