Hanifk

HI, Thanks for all the tips, I had seen these descriptions you mentioned of 2 EGR systems but no images which made it hard for me to find my way around the engine bay when All the images and videos were for the more common single type. I have no error codes showing and last summer the brake disks were changed with new pads along with wheel bearings and 18 months ago all the front suspension bushings, ball joints, track rod ends anti roll bar rubbers were all replaced. We have very bad roads so this happens every 3 years on average. New springs and shocks were replaced 20 months ago. I regularly check the brakes when we change from winter to summer tyres, I have 2 sets of alloys which makes it easier and I am able to check the condition of the wheel area, brakes and suspension in Mid April and Mid November. There is no excessive wear on the pads or disks, they are in excellent condition. These are all fine, which is why my research was in other areas. My location is in a small village about 25Kms from the nearest small town and 35kms from a decent hospital, It is important to me to have the car in optimal condition at all times. With family back in the UK we have sadly had to make an emergency drive to the UK. Knowing the car is optimal condition gives me the confidence that I can go anywhere at the drop of a hat. I will look into getting a endoscope to see what can be discovered and will try to get images to control the situation. I had seen in another post yesterday where they had a leak in the intercooler, there was a build up of soot however it was congealed with the water and coolant leak, so the actual condition without the leak could not be ascertained. Will keep posting updates as I make progress. Ah just had a notification as I type that my DMF clutch kit is not in stock and even though it was paid for its cancelled.. Back to square 1. This is a year of poor luck with getting car parts for me.

Finally located a complete LUK kit from Austria, just ordered and now waiting for delivery. Cant wait to get it fitted so I can use all the power again fully..

Update: The car has had a "tune up" Some cobwebs were cleared. could not drive it to its full potential as I have a weak DMF, just managed to get the complete LUK kit ordered today due to stock issues. Once its fitted I can give it a thorough tune. I had intended to clean the throttle body as there are many indications on my mileage that this does get clogged. Looking everywhere under the bonnet for the same pipes etc as I have seen online in Youtube videos. Only to find a completely different system is installed, which is a water cooled intake system. OEM Valeo system. Photo attached. I have seen very few references to this part and issues, except when there has been an internal water leak. it also seems to be fitted on other engine types as there are few references to CKFC engine code I have. Due to the complex cooling and air system inside I am somewhat hesitant to open it for a clean out, or to use a cleaning solution to spray inside. I am sure its needed as it seems to struggle 'breathing properly'. Until I can get more supporting feedback from experienced drivers who have this same intercooler I will be cautious. A replacement part only price is more expensive than a complete clutch DMF system fitted.

DPF is OK Oil Change and filters up to date Calipers Ok Tasks to check are Throttle Body Carbon Cleaning Injector Cleaning Will update soon as these are done and have some feedback on the economy. Urgent work is to replace the DMF and Clutch which was just ordered as out of stock for over 1 month

Thank you for the suggestions. I used LUK website and Sachs to ensure that the part numbers were correct. This is the only complete kit which is lower cost to fit than separate DMF and clutch. The independent sellers are where the issues are. They don't seem to have stock and as such they are hiking the prices up for the same item as a result. My engine code was used for a limited period and as such other kits may not work for similar original power output . Italy is not easy to find reasonable suppliers for items. You just buy from whom you know. My search lead me all over Europe to see whoever has the part available. None are reasonably priced, sadly.

I will only use OEM at least there is assurance of the level of quality the manufacturer is willing to install. This has lasted well and therefore I expect the OEM replacement to last equally as long. Using lower quality part is not viable in my case.

Thanks for the reference: The code is different to what you purchased. My engine code is CKFC The below codes were verified from the original manufacturer references as both are OEM suppliers for VAG group vehicles. Sachs 2290 601 162 LUK 600 037 100

Post your updates when you get this checked out.. I too have a similar issue and have no external signs or errors showing any possible issue. My car has driven double your miles. My attention is on the intake part of the engine. Throttle body more specifically. It does get clogged with deposits from recirculating air from the turbo and pressure release from the engine, carrying oil deposits. Well documented issues for all diesels. My garage has to find some time to book me in to examine these aspects and do an injector clean depending on the amount of deposits found in the throttle body Intake area. Logically trying to eliminate issues rather than tackling everything at once.

My bad luck,, just as I was due to order the clutch kit with DMF The LUK went out of stock on several sites I found it on. Searching for the Sachs also came up with a similar issue. So now Unless I fork out £200+ more than the original price of £480.00 for this kit there is only 1 online place which has it on stock. All others who show stock of either brand are even more expensive. Seems to me the parts suppliers are checking stock and adjusting prices according to availability of supply... Have to drive less and wait for stock to arrive, not paying extortionate amounts for another persons profit..

Hi, Can I ask if you managed to install the catch can and where did you find one? I have a Euro 5 Version 2.0 TDI from 2015 and am facing increased fuel consumption I believe in part is due to the increase in carbon deposits stuck due to the crankcase oil feeding back into the intake. I have seen many people who are diving 4x4's who have installed a catch can and they collect quite a lot of oil which would have been fed back into the intake system. I guess this has to have some benefits to the engine not being caked up with oil and carbon deposits. If only carbon gets through is a different issue to look at. anyhow appreciate any links and advice if you went ahead with it..

I agree my DPF is not clogged up as I have noticed it on times when I have driven a lot at lower speeds and shorter journeys the car has done the Regen and its noticeably different to what I am experiencing consistently now. Regarding the 'Italian tune up' I have done this in the past inadvertently, but recently this has not been done.. I guess I should make a conscious effort on this to see if it works. Thanks

Using Injector cleaner / snake oil as you describe it, has not effected my fuel consumption in the last 5 years. it is recently that I have seen a 20% drop in fuel economy. These 2 are not correlated if you read my full description.

No we don't get a winter fuel as the temperatures don't go too low unlike Scandinavia. Yes the air filter is cleaned mid services and replaced each year.

I have a 2015 Octavia Estate with 200,000 Kms ( 120,000 Miles). Engine code is CKFC. 150Bhp Manual 6 speed gearbox Bought the car used in Germany with 90,000 kms. I have driven 110,000 Kms in 5 years. The car is used on local roads for 50% of the journeys between villages (50-60Km/h speeds) and on Highways at 100 to 130Km/h speeds for the remainder of the journeys. Usually without any load and only returning back with grocery shopping.. something we have done for 5 years. This has been the norm for the past 5 years with exceptions of touring journeys across the continent once a year with 3,000 to 5,000 Kms per trip. Using manual calculations with an established driving pattern and known fuel consumption, I have noticed an increase in the fuel consumption calculated at 20% higher in the past few months. Using the same fuel stations as before, regularly serviced before the due mileage with recommended oil and all filters, fuel filter replaced every 2 services. Use injector cleaner on average once a year. Tyres are maintained and replaced with the same Michelin model each time with pressures checked regularly, also has pressure sensors so get warnings in case it drops, changes made for winter and summer tyres with 2 sets of alloy wheels to have stability in all seasons. Having no changes to the driving pattern and annal maintenance habits I cannot understand the increase in fuel consumption? Due to have a clutch change resulting from an increased rattle from the DMF.. Clutch is fine and not slipping, otherwise nothing unusual which I am able to think about effecting fuel.. Any suggestion which I can look into and review other options which need further investigation. Much appreciate any advice. Thanks Hanif

I have a 2015 Octavia with 200,000 Kms ( 120,000 Miles). Bought the car used in Germany with 90,000 kms. I have driven 110,000 Kms in 5 years. Its now making a rattling sound which has been diagnosed as the DMF. it is not a terrible sound yet.. so I have time to choose the right kit for replacement However which one to choose is the Question I am seeking help on. Sachs Clutch Kit 2290601145 LuK 600 0371 00 Clutch Kit Any advice on the brand will be great to have from any members.