Hanifk

HI, Thanks for all the tips, I had seen these descriptions you mentioned of 2 EGR systems but no images which made it hard for me to find my way around the engine bay when All the images and videos were for the more common single type. I have no error codes showing and last summer the brake disks were changed with new pads along with wheel bearings and 18 months ago all the front suspension bushings, ball joints, track rod ends anti roll bar rubbers were all replaced. We have very bad roads so this happens every 3 years on average. New springs and shocks were replaced 20 months ago. I regularly check the brakes when we change from winter to summer tyres, I have 2 sets of alloys which makes it easier and I am able to check the condition of the wheel area, brakes and suspension in Mid April and Mid November. There is no excessive wear on the pads or disks, they are in excellent condition. These are all fine, which is why my research was in other areas. My location is in a small village about 25Kms from the nearest small town and 35kms from a decent hospital, It is important to me to have the car in optimal condition at all times. With family back in the UK we have sadly had to make an emergency drive to the UK. Knowing the car is optimal condition gives me the confidence that I can go anywhere at the drop of a hat. I will look into getting a endoscope to see what can be discovered and will try to get images to control the situation. I had seen in another post yesterday where they had a leak in the intercooler, there was a build up of soot however it was congealed with the water and coolant leak, so the actual condition without the leak could not be ascertained. Will keep posting updates as I make progress. Ah just had a notification as I type that my DMF clutch kit is not in stock and even though it was paid for its cancelled.. Back to square 1. This is a year of poor luck with getting car parts for me.

Finally located a complete LUK kit from Austria, just ordered and now waiting for delivery. Cant wait to get it fitted so I can use all the power again fully..

Update: The car has had a "tune up" Some cobwebs were cleared. could not drive it to its full potential as I have a weak DMF, just managed to get the complete LUK kit ordered today due to stock issues. Once its fitted I can give it a thorough tune. I had intended to clean the throttle body as there are many indications on my mileage that this does get clogged. Looking everywhere under the bonnet for the same pipes etc as I have seen online in Youtube videos. Only to find a completely different system is installed, which is a water cooled intake system. OEM Valeo system. Photo attached. I have seen very few references to this part and issues, except when there has been an internal water leak. it also seems to be fitted on other engine types as there are few references to CKFC engine code I have. Due to the complex cooling and air system inside I am somewhat hesitant to open it for a clean out, or to use a cleaning solution to spray inside. I am sure its needed as it seems to struggle 'breathing properly'. Until I can get more supporting feedback from experienced drivers who have this same intercooler I will be cautious. A replacement part only price is more expensive than a complete clutch DMF system fitted.

DPF is OK Oil Change and filters up to date Calipers Ok Tasks to check are Throttle Body Carbon Cleaning Injector Cleaning Will update soon as these are done and have some feedback on the economy. Urgent work is to replace the DMF and Clutch which was just ordered as out of stock for over 1 month

Thank you for the suggestions. I used LUK website and Sachs to ensure that the part numbers were correct. This is the only complete kit which is lower cost to fit than separate DMF and clutch. The independent sellers are where the issues are. They don't seem to have stock and as such they are hiking the prices up for the same item as a result. My engine code was used for a limited period and as such other kits may not work for similar original power output . Italy is not easy to find reasonable suppliers for items. You just buy from whom you know. My search lead me all over Europe to see whoever has the part available. None are reasonably priced, sadly.

I will only use OEM at least there is assurance of the level of quality the manufacturer is willing to install. This has lasted well and therefore I expect the OEM replacement to last equally as long. Using lower quality part is not viable in my case.

Thanks for the reference: The code is different to what you purchased. My engine code is CKFC The below codes were verified from the original manufacturer references as both are OEM suppliers for VAG group vehicles. Sachs 2290 601 162 LUK 600 037 100

Post your updates when you get this checked out.. I too have a similar issue and have no external signs or errors showing any possible issue. My car has driven double your miles. My attention is on the intake part of the engine. Throttle body more specifically. It does get clogged with deposits from recirculating air from the turbo and pressure release from the engine, carrying oil deposits. Well documented issues for all diesels. My garage has to find some time to book me in to examine these aspects and do an injector clean depending on the amount of deposits found in the throttle body Intake area. Logically trying to eliminate issues rather than tackling everything at once.

My bad luck,, just as I was due to order the clutch kit with DMF The LUK went out of stock on several sites I found it on. Searching for the Sachs also came up with a similar issue. So now Unless I fork out £200+ more than the original price of £480.00 for this kit there is only 1 online place which has it on stock. All others who show stock of either brand are even more expensive. Seems to me the parts suppliers are checking stock and adjusting prices according to availability of supply... Have to drive less and wait for stock to arrive, not paying extortionate amounts for another persons profit..

Hi, Can I ask if you managed to install the catch can and where did you find one? I have a Euro 5 Version 2.0 TDI from 2015 and am facing increased fuel consumption I believe in part is due to the increase in carbon deposits stuck due to the crankcase oil feeding back into the intake. I have seen many people who are diving 4x4's who have installed a catch can and they collect quite a lot of oil which would have been fed back into the intake system. I guess this has to have some benefits to the engine not being caked up with oil and carbon deposits. If only carbon gets through is a different issue to look at. anyhow appreciate any links and advice if you went ahead with it..

I agree my DPF is not clogged up as I have noticed it on times when I have driven a lot at lower speeds and shorter journeys the car has done the Regen and its noticeably different to what I am experiencing consistently now. Regarding the 'Italian tune up' I have done this in the past inadvertently, but recently this has not been done.. I guess I should make a conscious effort on this to see if it works. Thanks

Using Injector cleaner / snake oil as you describe it, has not effected my fuel consumption in the last 5 years. it is recently that I have seen a 20% drop in fuel economy. These 2 are not correlated if you read my full description.

No we don't get a winter fuel as the temperatures don't go too low unlike Scandinavia. Yes the air filter is cleaned mid services and replaced each year.

I have a 2015 Octavia Estate with 200,000 Kms ( 120,000 Miles). Engine code is CKFC. 150Bhp Manual 6 speed gearbox Bought the car used in Germany with 90,000 kms. I have driven 110,000 Kms in 5 years. The car is used on local roads for 50% of the journeys between villages (50-60Km/h speeds) and on Highways at 100 to 130Km/h speeds for the remainder of the journeys. Usually without any load and only returning back with grocery shopping.. something we have done for 5 years. This has been the norm for the past 5 years with exceptions of touring journeys across the continent once a year with 3,000 to 5,000 Kms per trip. Using manual calculations with an established driving pattern and known fuel consumption, I have noticed an increase in the fuel consumption calculated at 20% higher in the past few months. Using the same fuel stations as before, regularly serviced before the due mileage with recommended oil and all filters, fuel filter replaced every 2 services. Use injector cleaner on average once a year. Tyres are maintained and replaced with the same Michelin model each time with pressures checked regularly, also has pressure sensors so get warnings in case it drops, changes made for winter and summer tyres with 2 sets of alloy wheels to have stability in all seasons. Having no changes to the driving pattern and annal maintenance habits I cannot understand the increase in fuel consumption? Due to have a clutch change resulting from an increased rattle from the DMF.. Clutch is fine and not slipping, otherwise nothing unusual which I am able to think about effecting fuel.. Any suggestion which I can look into and review other options which need further investigation. Much appreciate any advice. Thanks Hanif

I have a 2015 Octavia with 200,000 Kms ( 120,000 Miles). Bought the car used in Germany with 90,000 kms. I have driven 110,000 Kms in 5 years. Its now making a rattling sound which has been diagnosed as the DMF. it is not a terrible sound yet.. so I have time to choose the right kit for replacement However which one to choose is the Question I am seeking help on. Sachs Clutch Kit 2290601145 LuK 600 0371 00 Clutch Kit Any advice on the brand will be great to have from any members.

Update on the issue: Wednesday: The replacement sensor arrived and was the correct one. After replacing it and ensuring no other leak points were there. The Fault code was reset. A quick drive confirmed that the power was back and the boost effect of the turbo was back. Thursday: Needed to go to another town 50 Kms away, multi road route with periods of 60Kms speed, Highways of 130Kms and Other roads with 90Kms. What I noticed was an even higher increase in Boost and Torque at all speeds and especially over 1,500 rpm. The same experience on the return journey. What I can surmise from this experience is: 1. The leak had been long standing and only when it lost full pressure the issue came to my attention, thus a reduction of boost based on the sensor readings of the DPF. 2. The new sensor needs re-calibrating and could be reading older values with the new sensor which is causing the increase performance I felt. As I am not able at present to access a VCDS system to reset the sensor I have to just watch and see for a period and adjust my driving style according to the increased performance.. I am not displeased with the extra power. But just to be cautious in case readings from the sensor are wrong and calibration will settle it back. Thanks for everyones input and help each suggestion has been helpful in working out the fault and ability to concentrate on a resolution without the more dedicated tools a garage would have to diagnose quicker. This forum is invaluable for support to us all . So thank you all on this platform for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Hanif

DFP sensor update. The plastic tube which is connecting the pipe was broken at the sensor end Could not be seen until the sensor was removed for inspection. Already ordered a replacement. Does the new sensor need to be coded in before it can work? Can the car be driven without causing any damage before the coding is completed? Any suggestions would be great as having a lot of trouble getting a VCDS system here in Italy

Today I plugged in a Carista OBD device with the Pro software. Lots of errors which were there many were AC and other due to the engine not running. Just reset them and they are gone.. However Aside from the DPF error code already mentioned above. I am unable to find the following new code which is a VAG code 05253. Under Engine section.. Searched in many places and not able to locate this Is there a database of VAG codes which can be searched? Thanks Hanif

Certainly back this method for servicing and its the oil and filter I use on my 2.0TDI Octavia. Done 70,000 since my ownership and was dealer FSH before. The engine is sweet and very responsive. It may cost a few ££ extra for the oil. That is peace of mind for the savings in other areas. Even if the DPF lasts 20% longer life its worth it.

After reading all the suggestions offered and possible causes of the issue, which is a check engine light not a DPF message from the car. Error code from OBD read. 1.P245300 Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor 'A' Circuit - Range/Performance 2.P245200 Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor 'A' Circuit I can summarise the driving situation of the car since I have owned it. Bought at 98,000 Kms.. Currently 170,000 Kms in 4 years use. Short periods in my local roads with speeds of 60Km/h Most other times for grocery shopping there are longer stretches on similar roads for 25 Kms and then onto faster A roads and Highway for 50-60 Kms.. All other journeys start with the 25Kms local roads and then straight onto highway with speeds low average 130Km/h . Majority of the Kms added to the car are Highway miles. In 4 years the DPF cleaning light has come on 3 times. As much of the driving is at a good speed and long journeys this should have kept the DPF clearer under these driving conditions. 1 Week before the light appeared and loss of the turbo boost, I had driven on a 900km highway journey. These are most common causes mentioned on many sites: Defective DPF pressure sensor Clogged DPF pressure sensor tubes/hoses Open or shorted circuit/s in the DPF pressure sensor A circuit Inefficient DPF regeneration Inoperative active DPF regeneration system The last 2 options seem less relevant due to the driving conditions involved. So to investigate the 1st 3 plus a possible leak in the tubes measuring the pressures from the DPF due to the amount of soot around the sensor. if I have missed any other elements to consider I will aim to get some replacement tubing and set about the investigation. Thanks Hanif

I should have mentioned it was the driving conditions before the light came on. Currently it is off the road and not driven.. Getting a garage with VAG diagnostic tools is not going to be easy for me here. I am in a very remote area and very few facilities in my region which cover VAG cars. So I am hoping to gather all the issues and possibilities before I take the necessary steps.. I will need to buy a VCDS system for coding and just ordered a Carista OBDII device to help in the future needs which help to identify issues.

Thanks JR. I have not heard any Regens lately as most of the Kms I have done have been a few short country roads and majority Highway 130 kmh to 150 Kmh speeds, so I don't feel that this is a specific issue in my case.

I checked my sensor which is surrounded by a heat shielding faux fabric cover. The inside of this cover was full of soot, so I imagine there is a leak somewhere and possible cause of the error. Unless this is a normal situation? My part number is 03L 906 051B Which is the 2 pipe version sensor but only the left one has a pipe connected to it! Is there an alternative part number or single pipe version I can use if it needs replacing? I want to check for leakages first to ensure there are no other issues before getting a replacement sensor, unless the soot around it is 'normal' The outside local temperature reaches just above freezing at peak during the day so its too cold to spend long time under the bonnet. Can only do a few things at a time..

Hi Dave, I managed to get a OBD scan of my car just to find out what the fault could be. I received 4 errors: 1.P245300 Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor 'A' Circuit - Range/Performance 2.P245200 Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor 'A' Circuit 3.U112300 Databus Error Value Received 4.U041500 Invalid Data Received From - Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module From the feedback on driving the car I was only aware of the Lack of Turbo boost which would be restricted if there was something awry with the DPF sensor I can see from the quick search made online the DPF needs to be cleaned, before any sensor is replaced so the new sensor can detect a clear DPF and nor keep going into Regen mode sooner than needed. I have not recently seen the Regen mode come on, and have made several long journeys so I am expected it to be clear under normal driving conditions. I have to obtain a VCDS unit to be able to code in the new sensor. Re the ABS error: The last time I had a fault on a sensor it effected my steering system, limited power and I received many other errors on the dash. All caused by the ABS sensor cable being dislodged by a snow chain - reconnecting it back removed all the errors and car has been running normally for 3 years. . This time I don't get any other messages or symptoms which I did before. Only discovered it with the scan. If anyone has experience with these symptoms or can guide me with the right steps I can take in getting it resolved, I greatly appreciate it Thanks in Advance. Hanif

Hi Dave, Thanks for the swift reply. The car is not in Limp mode. Well not as how others have described their issues. I have no Rev limitation, or loss of power under load. I dont have the Turbo power now.. I want to diagnose it. But dont know which OBDII device to get.. Have you any suggestions which I can use a reference and make a decision on what I can find here in Italy. Thanks