sapf0

A local guys recons can do it for £150. He’s advertising Odis.

They never said it came from a Mk2 Superb. They insist it was a 2017 which would make it Mk3, but I suspect an A3 a that’s the most common hit. IMG_4643.MOV IMG_4642.MOV

So I was faced with 2 options. 1. Fit it 2. Call supplier again. I called the supplier to tell them it’s wrong again. I recorded the call, gave them the order number, which leads to their online quote for my request of a QMM gearbox. They of on call recording insisting the MTE box came out of a Superb and it fits, and me telling them they will need to cover fitting if it does not to which he agreed. It’s recoded. So they fitted it, and it’s throwing up P1701 TCM Locked code as @ApertureS said would happen. Now can this be flashed to work, or is it literally the wrong box for this car? I know, I know! But what was I supposed to do when they are forcing me to try it before taking it to the next step.

So the supplier of the box is insisting it came out of a Superb and will fit. They are VAG breakers. the MTE box is sitting in the garage… It does look identical…. I needs to prove the MTE box does not go into my car, or didn’t come from a Skoda Superb because they are saying it is compatible. Any help?

I’ve found this. What do you think?

I have a 2016 2.0 DSG. I’ve purchased a used box from a breaker, they told me it was QMM, but they’ve supplied an MTE. It appears it is from 2.0, but previous mark. Will it be compatible, or have the fecked up?

It appears that it was those wires that were causing fuse 4 engine side to blow. I have had the turbo code pop up again and it goes into limp mode. But a reset solves that problem, and it’s maybe once per week (1000miles).

Did you fix this problem? I have had this just come up

I have this issue appearing once, maybe twice per day. I do around 200 miles per day though. It is fixed with either a code reset, or ignition on and off. I do have or issues, for which I am trying to get an appointment at my local Skoda. Low power over 2000 rpm, almost feeling like slipping. Pulls fine over 2000 rpm. Any suggestions?

So a few weeks later, and that Repairs seems to have solved that problem and fuse 4 engine bay no longer blows. I now have a new problem, which I will post in a new thread. 😂 Thank you for all of your help.

Took it to a local auto elec garage. He spotted this. This could be the result of a recent gearbox engine (dogbone) mount bush failure which caused engine movement for a few days before being fixed. see his note re: fuse 4 wire He said there was not rusting so appears recent, which fits in with that failed mount. How can that relate to fuse 4?

This started happening today intermittently. Only on the right speakers. Last night I heard a clicking sound going through the speakers from front to back. It was the same on other stations. https://youtube.com/shorts/UgZF0978Qow?feature=share

Is a 10a causing any issue itself then? It was a 10a that was taken out, which if it is supposed to be a 7.5a, then it’s clearly been replaced previously.

It’s a 10a fitted in fuse 4. (Engine bay) No AdBlue I have a multi metre 1 time it went I changed the fuse and it blew 30 Mins later 2nd time a local auto elec guy cleaned a lower sensor (pic), and it was fine for 500 miles. Now I have replaced it multiple times, unplugging a few components underneath, like that sensor in the picture, the oil level sensor, & the fan, to try to eliminate, but it blows either on pull off, not idle, or when I get a mile down the road and take the same right turn weirdly enough.

I forgot to mention. The last 3 times I’ve done trial & error runs, it’s popped hooking a right turn at the same place. I did recently have the DSG service done a Central VW & Audi, and they’ve got to have had my battery tray & airbox out I guess.

Birmingham mate. Thanks

So fuse 4 engine side keep is blowing… It’s appears to control: Radiator fan, control valve for fuel pressure, relay for electric auxiliary heater Bit when it blows, it’s takes out the oil temp sensor (oil sensor: workshop! On dash) And the turbo…… so it must controls more, but I can’t find what else! As I said on another thread (this one is more fuse 4 function specific), a guy cleaned a sensor under the engine whcih I though was interfering, and it worked fine for 500 miles. My heater is slow, and only blowing cold out of drivers side. I understand this many be due to the silica bag dropping into the matrix, which is in front of the auxiliary heater right? Can this be connected?

Just uploaded some vids

Her you go. I’m cleaned up the oil level sensor connection, changed the fuse, and then the car was fine again for 2 mins. Funny coincidence though, it was where I was turning right at the same point as a previous attempt, that the fuse blew again! https://youtu.be/wErmCidkWP8 https://youtu.be/tY1Vso7Yx-M

Bear with me guys. I’ve just been under and took a decent video. I’ll upload it to YouTube and post the link asap.

The leak is the sump gasket.

Oh, I must add that my heater is not fully functioning. Only warm on high power, and no heat drivers side.

Yes sorry. It’s a Mk3 2016. In fact my 2nd Mk3 now. Initially changing the fuse solved it. Then it became intermittent. Then an elec guy cleaned that sensor and it was fine.

It’s actually a 10a. This is the fuse that keeps blowing.