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@stavkon it is not entirely the truth. You can quite easily add pins without splitting the halves. Altough You do need to split it open if You want to remove/extract existing pins, as the locking tab for the individual pins is only revealed when You split it open. It is handy to have a spare connector as You can utilise the old pins for future retrofits simply by soldering the new wiring to the old cables with pins. Remember, the pins can go in to the connectors only one way! so make sure You push them in right way. and, a handy tip HERE on how to remove the cover.

Sorry, in case of LHD cars, it would be on the left hand side of the steering rack...

Dear @Haribest Same applies to Skoda's and Seat's. However I could not be bothered to go trough all this... Just being bit lazy. Depending on how big are Your hands, You should be able to get around it just by loosing up the bottom trim just as I did. In your case, Instruments - 17 should be already checked/selected. Otherwise, it would not work. In your situation, You only have to add settings in Engine and Central Electr. and You are sorted. @stavkon its being attahed to the bottom of the fuse box by two screws. Undo the screws and slide it out from its location. Right, after going trough hell, and having my wrists slashed and scratched by various body parts while adding MFSW, MFA and CCS wiring. I came to a conclusion, by trials and errors, that removal of BCM unit is NOT necessary to add wires to white and black connectors (T73a and T73b). I found a way around it, as even if you manage to remove BCM (which I will tell further down in the text) there is not enough space behind the fusebox to work on the connectors. Hence, I came with an idea, to pull the plugs towards the top of the fuse box - slightly to the right of the steering column and above fuse box. By droping the bottom trim You should be able to have just enough room to work there. There is enough free play on those looms, that You can quite confidently give them bit of a tug. Just my suggestion, try feeding the BCM-ECU wire first. As if You fail to have that done, Your efforts with the BCM will be wasted. If You want to remove BCM unit, push it forward towards the bulkhead, it will unclip the bottom catches and now You just have to pull BCM module downwards. It is easier, if You remove accelerator/gas pedal Im happy to give you as much support as I can! So in case of any other question - let me know.

@Haribest as mentioned in PM, here it is - an anwer to Your questions. Yes, These are correct values, which need to be updated using VCDS or similar software. However, Im not sure if INstruments -17 is relevant to CCS functionality as this is to activate MFA. On the wiper stalk, You will get extra buttons which will allow You to scroll trough some additional informations on Your clock/speedometer i.e. average consumption, average speed, current speed, trip time etc. There is no need for any sort of security access on our cars. KIt contained all the neccessary items to complete the instalation. To be fairly honest, buying the complete kit saves You hassle of crimping the wires Yourself. I know, it is a lazy option. All the wires in the kit are colour coded and You cant go wrong. in order to remove that particular section, I would have to strip the WHOLE BOTTOM of the centre console. Including removal of the Radio. As per trim removal procedures described in the Skoda Workshop Manual. Im not saying there is plenty of room to work with, but I found it being just enough. It did create an opening large enough to work with it. It was stil better, than working directly behind the BCM unit. The BIGGEST issue I had during this installation was accessing the engine ECU. ECU mounting plate is held on by 2 security screws to the battery tray. You will need a grinder to get rid of them. Another tricky part, was feeding BCM-ECU wire. It is handy to have somebody to help you with that task. Your job should be easier, as You have a LHD vehicle and You dont have to run the wire all the way from right side to the left side. Your case would be just to feed the trough the bulkhead. If You would need any further support, please do let me know.

It appears, that front bumper lip is simply affixed to the original bumper using some sort of adhesive... Here At the same place, you can also get a rear spoiler as well. And, same principle - it is glued on... Interesting, even the price seem to be decent...

@maxychat my Citigo had exactly the same configuration, yet Pin 17 was not there... BCM list can be found HERE altough, following the before mentioned list my module being High+ (***-937-090-***) did not have the required pin. More Pins on the module, higher the chances that all the features You already have will be supported plus view more. Always double check. P.S. It doesn't have to be a Up/Citigo/Mii module. A lot of VAG will share same module across the range. It just needs to be recoded using VCDS or similar.

@maxychat Great guide. There isnt much difference between pre-FL and FL models. Quick note, for anybody who will decide to carry on with this mod - You do NEED to establish if your BCM will support MFSW function. Having Citigo of the highest trim or one of the latest releases DOES NOT mean that MFSW will work in Your car. Easiest way to establish that is to check phisically if the required pin is there "Pin 17 of the BCM (White) B connector". +12V power supply its needed not only for MFSW to light up, but also to work at all. Please note, some older MFSW buttons may have the same VAG part number but they will not light up, also, accordinly to some, MSFW illumination maybe BCM dependent.

@maxychatmy one costed me £49 and does the same job. And there was no need to chop the original center part in order to fit it. Its not as sturdy as the OEM armrest although it's supporting my arm quite well as I'm not a big bloke. 😂

For further life improvements I can also recommend an arm rest. Goes nicely with CCS, so we can relax while driving 😉

@maxychat & @freemansteve My Citigo is a 60BHP variant, so there isnt much power coming out from this little car. My daily commute is a 70 miles round trip. With a CCS set to true 52MPH (54 on car's speedometer) the average fuel consupmtion is approx 75-78MPG. I can push up to 430-450 miles between fill-ups. Adding CCS had greatly improved my MPG's. Silly me, even if I drive localy I would still use CCS 😎 IMHO this mod is the best thing I could've add to my car!

Bonnet itself consist of to parts inner skin and outer skin. yes, You are absolutely correct, to outer shape is different between all vehicles in range (citigo/Mii/). Altough inner shell/skin remain the same. As mentioned before, I have a 2014 Citigo, my Dad have late 2017 Citigo, same liner fits both.

Many thanks for Your kind words. If You need any advice or moral support feel free to drop me a message.

it fits perfectly ma Dad's FL Citigo. The inner skin on all Citigo/Mii/Up is the same. they differ on the outside only. Thats typicall. They had told me straight away that this liner is a VW part so it cannot be ordered from Skoda. Additionally, because it is not a skoda part, it wil NOT fit 😆

As my boredom due to the current situation is at its peak, there is yet another retrofit which I will attempt over next couple of days or maybe bit longer. The money so called authorised dealers and other VAG specialist are asking to do that are insane. So, this a cheap alternative which costed me so far around 150EUR. There will be a lot of cuts on my forearms and a lot of cursing involved but it should be doable. The biggest issue will be running One wire, which is from BCM unit to ECU in the engine compartment. Wish me luck and stay tuned for updates. It's already been done before. On 'sister' forum for VW up! VW Polo.