maxychat

I couldn't recreate it on my car. The petrol pump symbol only show for range but the number has "mi" written after it

N/S trim - 1S0 858 831 F 82V - £15.36 inc vat (number 2 on below image) O/S trim - 1S0 858 832 F 82V - £15.36 inc vat (also number 2) Edge Protection x2 - 1S0 845 437 - £6.02 each inc vat (number 😎 Screws x6 - N 910 268 02 - £2.15 each inc vat (number 7) Raised boot floor - 1S0 858 855 E 1BS - £126.89 inc vat (number 3) Credit to Lupogtiboy for the information above. I've retrofitted this to my Citigo, I bought the parts off ebay. If you've bought a used floor then make sure the it came with the plastic side retainers, I see the floors for sale on ebay and often they're missing - it'll be quite a loose fit without them. I also forgot to get the rubber sedge protection when I fitted mine and it worked just fine but I did add them later on

Yeah to preserve the Yeti key shell I had to bash the pin through using a punch - and then I could open it with a pair of plies and brute force without totally destroying it. It's definitely not made to be opened or re-used

Great effort and great enterprise. The key on my 2017 is equally dilapidated - it's really cheap soft plastic. I bought a unused genuine Yeti one to use to re-shell it - it has the old logo but the plastic is so much nicer

I've looked into this before, on other European forums but at the time I hadn't found anyone who's fitted one to a Citigo. If I remember correctly it was deduced it certainly wouldn't work on some models of Citigo because the radio doesn't come with a fitted video encoder inside - but which radio models it was unclear to me. But looking at the wiring diagram it's definitely in there. The wiring is fairly simple - 5 wires, one to ground and one to power and one to the reverse light switch - and then 2 into the radio - exactly as stated on carsystems. Never got far enough to look into the coding

From the wiring diagram it's 2 wires, earth being pin 1

On my SE L to go from FM to DAB you push the RADIO button again and it offers you FM or DAB. I'm sure you already tried that but if you haven't.

I really would have though there's only one configuration of the Facelift radio, especially in an SE L. The wiring manual suggests one integrated aerial RX5. Comparing the wires at the back of your radio to the diagram should give you an absolute answer though. Sorry if a stupid question and no insult intended but are you sure you don't have DAB? I can send pictures of how it's switched between FM/AM and DAB from my facelift radio if that could help

If I understand correctly then I think you’re missing the standard reinforced carpet piece part number 1S0863463

Skoda Move&Fun

That's my first hand experience but maybe it was something else, I did find it very strange. Either way these switches are fairly simple and can be fixed or modified. Here's some pictures of mine when split into 2, perhaps can be some help to the OP

These switches are not that complicated and can be taken apart. I've done it on my car to swap the knob to a chrome effect one. Start by taking the back plate off, its held on by 3 tabs and then you can see what plastics are broken in the mechanism. They're quite hardy so I imagine it may just have jumped out of it's runner and needs resetting. The headlight switch also stores the mileage for some reason so if you swap in a used one when you scan with VCDS it'll note a mileage discrepancy

Ah OK great. I did wonder if that was possible but I just couldn't figure it out! I'll be doing anther one on an auto-lights switch [if I ever get that working] and will try it that way. Looks really great on the car too, much nicer than the standard one. Feels nicer too

One thing that I'd prefer about the my Citigo is if black headlight switch knob were to match the silver heater control knobs. I'm sure one off another Skoda would work but for ease of compatibility I just bought one from VW UP! being broken. Only problem is that it illuminates red... but using a screwdriver taking off the back plate is all that's needed and is easily swapped with the old one on the car currently. [^This method also works a bit better than just using one straight from a donor car since VCDS notes the mileage discrepancy between the donor headlight switch an the rest of the car too]