Rileysport

Timing chain and tensioner- revised one. Cam bridge see if the filter metal and still there- Spanish tsb says bin the filter gauze.🤔 - Check see if the gauze is present and un damaged, if not it will hopefully be resting just inside the bridge itself, if not further investigation will be needed to find it! Do I need lower timing case- seems to be made of foil from posts I read. - I'd seriously recommend it, i've personally seen what happens when it gets reused! Seals, gaskets for the adventure. - Use only genuine stuff, also i'd recommend grey elring dirko gasket sealant for the lower timimng cover. Worth noting that all lower timing case bolts are supposed to be replaced as are the engine mounting bolts and the crank bolt. I'd also recommend inspecting the lower sprocket for wear/damage. Pcv valve- white part the modified one I believe- before it blows main seal - There's a defined path depending on what was fitted from the factory, the white one has a stronger spring in the diaphragm part amongst other changes. Oil catch can- does this cure inlet carbon build up and pass an MOT with it on? - I fitted one and used more oil with it fitted, car performs better without it on. There's conflicting views as to whether it sorts carbon buildup or not. Water pump some say is consumable time limited - Mine is original at 101k miles, unless the inlet manifold is off for other jobs i'd be tempted to leave it alone if there's no issues. Oil consumption? Believe 5w40 oil and regular interval oil better- if so which - Use millers cfs nanodrive +, i'm currently using liquimoly molygen and so far so goodon the consumption front but ran millers before as thats what is recommended. I also use a liquimoly engine flush every other oil change and my consumotion has reduced dramatically (from 1l every 1500 miles to 1l between 7k mile oil changes). Also use only genuine or bosch oil filters, Other consideratons would be the crank holding tool kit and spacer to ensure everything stays in time whilst in bits, the lower timing sprocket is effectively floating once you take the bolt out!

The only Tsi fitted to the Octavia is a gen1 iirc which was revised with better pistpns/rings to mitigate the oil consumption issues, the gen2 is the audi version with valve adjustment fitted to both cams. Also i agree that they have three timing chains however they have one chain from the crank to both cams, one from the crank to the balance shafts/water pump drive and one chain from the crank to the oil pump drive 👍. Regarding oil i'd agree with the above, shorter intervals and good quality 5w40 helps a lot, i run liquimoly molygen and my oil consumption has gone from reasonably high to negligable (i do run an engine flush through every other oil change too).

None are a "straight fit" to the ccza, the compressor housing has to be modified on a k04-064 to fit properly and i'd expect the same of a K04-530. As far as i know no variants of the CCZ or ea888 gen1 or 2 came with a K04 as standard so there's going to be some tweaking to get it fitted. The IS38 is an EA888 gen 3 turbo which has no manifold so thats out of the question.

Tsi doesnt need the injectors or the hpfp for a K04 conversion, everything else is pretty much spot on. I'm currently getting mine ready for K04 conversion, i have the Intake, upgraded coils, upgraded boost pipes, gfb dv+ and a cat back system on stage 1 so far. I'll be adding a 200cell downpipe, Bigger intercooler, helix clutch with new dmf and an oil cooler (for piece of mind) to my setup, i've already got the K04-064 (with APR modified compressor housing so its a direct bolt) on sat on my desk.

Got Golf R clubsport brakes on mine.... Work very very well and all directly bolt straight on, loads of room behind 18's.

Are you talking about the cam cover (where the coils are)? If so its also the caps for the camshafts and has no gasket, only sealant. Not a straight forward job to sort by all accounts! If its the black plastic upper timimng case you're talking about then the gasket is avaiable seperately part number 06h103483c.

Edit, just seen that it has! Any indications of any vacuum readings on idle at all?

Has it been compression tested?

Mine still has the initial start up "rattle" literally lasts a second or so. I've had the chains tensioners, guides etc all done so i'm not overly concerned Its also had a top end rebuild after I broke a valve spring, no issues reported other than the spring itself. These Tsi engines do seem a little noisy, probably a combination of direct injection and being chain driven.

Just to add i have now suffered a broken valve spring on the inlet valve closest the timing chain!

89k on mine late 2009 hatchback, Bought in March completely standard for a relatively low price and so far in my ownership its had... Maintenance/Issues Timing chain + all associated bits (cold start noises became apparent) PCV Valve (changed for piece of mind) New shocks and springs all round (one front was leaking, figured the rest wouldn't be far behind) Front wishbones (Anti lift kit) R8 Coil packs (Had a very minor miss fire) Rear camber bolts and arms (it was all seized up nice and solid) Liked a good old drink of oil! (Moved to 5w40 Millers CFS after a good engine flush and let it stretch its legs... Now consumes very very little) Indicator stalk went crazy Mods wise Lowered 20mm VWR intake APR stage 1 Mk3 MFSW Android head unit To do Get rid of the Chinese ditch finder tyres that are on there! Sort a flaky sill and some minor paint issues (its red) Bigger brakes Go stage 3 I'll be quite honest in that having come from a nicely sorted mk1 that was sadly written off i did struggle to gel with it at first until i did well over 1k miles around Scotland. The engine is an absolute gem and returns very good economy for what it is! The ride is smooth and comfortable and its incredibly practical! If i was to go back in time i'd look for an enthusiast owned vehicle rather than prioritising a low miler, mine looks to have only been jogged around from what i can gather and has remained in the town it was bought in new, this probably left me sorting some things that hadn't had time to go wrong yet!

That's poor sno_monsta. I'm now 2k miles after the chains, oil flush, switch to miller's cfs 5w40 and a stage one map. Engine is perfect (touch wood) and oil consumption appears to be at zero or close to. I'm currently 950 miles into a tour of Scotland and the car has really done very well. Its just a shame that they have the issues with the chains from the factory!

Hi! I've been lurking in the background a while and i must say that the knowledge on the forums is truly excellent! I picked up a 2010 Octavia Vrs just before lockdown having just had my Mk1 written off 😞 I'm still getting to grips with bringing the Mk2 up to "standard" so no doubt i'll have questions (and hopefully some contributions) for you all!

Over the last few weeks mine had been getting more "rattly" on cold start and had started to rattle slightly on a warm start too. Got it booked in and sorted out, it had the chains, tensioners guides, VVT bridge and many many more associated bolts and gaskets etc. The engine is now rattle free (apart from normal Tsi type noises) and feels lots smoother than before. Car is a 2010 VRS TSi on 85k miles, was still on the original timing gear. I've also had higher oil consumption than i'd deem acceptable but an oil flush and moving to 5w40 oil appears to have stopped/slowed this down dramatically! Its not been a cheap month, that's for sure!