Addictive

With a bit of patience, it is possible to dismantle the fob and replace the shell, which is what I’ve done, and it now looks like the attached picture. However, I kept the original circuit board. The hardest part was getting a new key cut. If you think the issue is associated with the circuit board and don’t have a spare, I suggest searching for a local repair service.

Hi Everyone, The engine light came on, so I took my car to a dealer to run a diagnostic on the cooling system. The head unit was perfectly fine when I took it in. As I’m driving away and try and use the satnav, I get the following message: You can activate the satnav by means of an activation key. Please contact your dealer. I also receive similar messages when trying to use smartlink and when trying to connect my phone. The radio is still working, and SD cards are still playing. I’ve checked the FEC/SWaP codes to see what is and isn’t enabled. 0810000a is enabled, and the supported codes screen is blank?! The head unit was already using firmware version 1433. Although I pointed out to the service department, the head unit worked perfectly fine when I brought the car in. They won’t go near it unless I agree to pay them to run another diagnostic. The car is going back in next week. Any suggestions/theories on what may have happened to cause this would be greatly appreciated.

Doh! Of course and I do, thanks.

No problem. There are 3 pins for the cigarette lighter adapter, ground, live and I think the 3 one is for the light? Having a quick read it would appear 100w is perfectly feasible, but that's directly from the cigarette lighter. I would be a little concerned about the load on the wiring to the usb ports unless you made the lead yourself. Also would you have to possibly increase the fuse rating, can't remember if the cigarette fuse is stand alone or shared? Come to think of it, it may be stand alone, I read somewhere or watched a video indicating you can have the cigarette lighter on ignition live or constant.

Hi cheezemonkhai, unfortunately I don't have a picture but I've found this site which shows you what it looks like:- USB I think the length of the cable is just over a metre which may vary depending on supplier so I would check before buying.

Tried and unfortunately not, the original ashtray is larger.

Hi Everyone, Came across the post and was lucky enough to find a very cheap start stop button on ebay (£5 delivered) so thought I would give it a try. Nothing was wrong with my original button and the reason I did the swap, was to see what a different button would look like and I thought I would share my findings. Thanks again to TasMan for his detailed write up which made the decision to attempt the swap much easier. The part I used was:- A Genuine Audi A4 8K B8 S-LINE Start & Stop Keyless Comfort Switch 8K0905217 which came with the silver cap. I also purchased the red and silver cap from Ali Express, although you can purchase them from ebay for similar prices. I have the black and red trim so thought I would see what the red and silver button looked like, you'll also notice the replaced button lights up in red and not the traditional green. Here are the pictures:- The only difference I've noticed so far, when depressing the button, you have a click which you didn't from my original. Again any mods are carried out at the owners risks.

Hi Everyone, Did the upgrade myself over the weekend and the parts I needed were:- 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda It was cheaper to order the USB adapter with the wiring loom which is plenty long enough from Ali Express and takes it's power from the cigarette lighter. The fiddliest part is the cigarette lighter, I found it easier in the end to pop the middle part out using my finger. There were only 4 torx's screws I had to remove from the rear console and the air vent unit and ashtray pop out relatively easily, tools I used, Torx's 20 and a set of trim tools for the gear stick surround. As previously mentioned, Ali Express do offer the complete unit including usb adapter, I felt more comfortable sourcing most of the parts locally and wanted to replace like for like with the ashtray. I've attached before during and after pictures, hope it helps someone thinking of doing the upgrade. These are the steps I took to do the upgrade. As always, do your own research, perform these upgrades at your own risk and remember it's so easy to break something so be patient if you do decide to go ahead.

Thank you for all your responses. Spoke to Skoda UK who pointed me in the direction of eWin's, fortunately I had already downloaded the geometry spec's but looks a little like double dutch to the uninitiated. I went back to the garage and had a polite conversation with the manager explaining the history and showing him the most recent attempt to align my car using a MkII's spec's. He was very understanding and apologetic at what had happened and offered to do the alignment again himself, couldn't say no to that and below are the results. Quick question if anybody would be able to help, what is the best way to try and resolve the issue with the driver's side camber. Could this be a possible issue with the strut when the lowering springs were put on that needs adjusting, is it even possible? I used the Racing Line Springs and have no complaints about the ride, I only ask because as you will see the passengers side is fine. I have been looking at adjustable ball joints but the only give +/- .5 degrees, then there is the TT wishbone swap but not sure if they are a straight swap on the MkIII like they are on the MkII and they may or may not change the caster angle which is a who new story. I think my only option may be a set of Powerflex Front Wishbone Front Bushes Camber Adjustable - OCTAVIA 5E 150PS PLUS MULTI-LINK - PFF85-501G and adustable lower ball joint which will give me a possible total of +/- 1 degree, or at least it does in my head, happy to be corrected? Hope I'm not breaking any rules by sharing this website but found the explanation of camber, toe and caster easy to follow:-https://www.comeanddriveit.com/suspension/camber-caster-toe

Thanks may also be worth giving Skoda UK a call and see if they have a technical dept like some other manufactures do and ask them the question before going back to them.

Correct, I didn't notice until I got home, surely that can't be right can it?

Hi, got the alignment collars installed on Saturday and had the alignment redone today. After receiving the print out I asked why, after being told the first time around, was the right side still out of alignment when the subframe had now been corrected? At which point I was told the reason they were unable to do the right side this time is because it could be the CV joint? Before I could ask another question the person took a call and disappeared! Here is the result of today's alignment and a picture of the wear on one of the tyres, very similar to the other side, hopefully someone with be interpret what could be causing the issue. I only noticed what base spec they were using when I got home and wondered if his could have an influance? Camber.bmp

Thank you for the reply uttanutta12 and something I will definitely be investigating, it has proven so far to be extremely problematic trying to find an aftermarket product that will correct negative camber. Adjustable top mounts are available but to use correctly would require fabrication of the top mounts. There are a few other options I can possibly have a look at but I wasn't given a printout when the alignment was originally performed because they had run out of ink, so right now don't have an idea of how much correction is required. I've noticed the most negative camber since having a hunters alignment performed. Maybe its the well known franchise I used who shall remain nameless at this stage.

Hi there just want to chime in on the topic. After lowering on standard shocks using racing line lowering springs and adjustable drop-links I am experiencing the same sorts of issues on the front, rears are fine. I took the car to get the alignment done on a Hunters rig and was told my front subframe was out of alignment and to be honest the issue (handling and uneven type wear) seems to be worse after the alignment. To address the suspected subframe issue I am getting the racing line subframe collars, front and back, installed hopefully in the next week or so. Speaking to a mechanic and doing a little research, its a known or should I say a potentially know issue when you lower your car, because using lowering springs on your car can introduce negative camber. It may not help that I have 15mm spacers which may have exaggerated the issue, although the rears are on 20mm spacers and are absolutely fine. I am also looking at various other options I may need in order to correct the camber, these include adjustable upper control arms, adjustable suspension top mounts, etc. Once the collars have been installed I will take it to another alignment centre to get a second opinion and report back. In the meantime here's another forum user experiencing camber issues which may be helpful:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264502-this-is-getting-silly-now-camber-adjustment-required/