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It does interrupt it, and it sounds like your car has been interrupting it. If it does it regularly then a regen probably takes far less time than if it's had multiple interruptions. I would suggest from the moment you notice your car trying to regen that you turn start stop off, and ensure you drive for at least 20-30 mins. Driving is not sat in traffic, and the process may be slower when doing so. If you have someone nearby with the tools to view the data you can check if you're nearing the threshold for it complaining.

I can tell you now from watching a DPF regen that start/stop working does not mean it's finished. It appears to continue a long time after that, I always turn my start stop off when it does one.

Do you know what previous owners your car had? Taxi company maybe? Could there be an insurers black box somewhere, or other kind of telematics device for a business? I'd try to find where the beeping is coming from, and then go hunting for anything that looks out of place, every control unit in the car will almost certainly have VAG logos on it, so any without are likely third party. If there's two of you with the same issue, then I bet it's some kind of telematics device/insurer black box that's been secreted behind the dash or somewhere daft.

FWIW from memory my 1.6 will do approx. 1.5 regens to each tank of fuel. Advice I've previously read (and follow) includes driving in a gear to maintain 1.5-2k rpm, once it starts (idle is at 1k rpm) it'll complete within 20 mins. Oddly the car will still start/stop during the procedure so although mine mostly doesn't work, I do turn the start/stop off when it's doing one. There is a data value you can watch if you have OBDeleven or VCDS that shows you how the regen is progressing (Ash %?) As for "ECO" mode, I can get higher MPG driving everywhere in sport mode... ECO mode my behind!

Simple stuff first, check all the hoses are in situ under the bonnet, especially hoses related to air intake / vacuum. They should all be in good nick and no cracks (check them all!). Someone else will be here hopefully who can just look into the crystal ball and know, but i'd start there.

Hi! I've just updated my unit to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T from 0241. I was hoping it would fix the issue where the Radio doesn't turn the music volume down when Android Auto speaks out navigation instructions, and also sometimes gets confused and will not switch back to playing music when announcements/nav instructions are made, but unfortunately it still happens (when this does happen, I have to switch to radio, then back to AA for the sound to resume). Possibly just an AA bug as it DID turn music volume down when I first got the car, but now it does not unless I am both navigating with android auto, and also playing music with spotify or other android app. Is there any benefit to forcing an update to 04xx firmwares? I notice there is a 0254 firmware? But cannot find the file for it. I have the non-nav "CPUPLUS" unit.

I believe my battery is original, never issues starting it, but the start/stop rarely works now, and my cruise control generally shows the speedo with an exclamation mark when starting after being sat for a day or more (which i've hopefully worked out correctly is the battery voltage dropping slightly too low for its liking). The car does ~10k per year, mostly >25 mile journeys. After looking up the cost of a new one, I'm going to make this one last as long as it can!

I asked my local motor factors, they were able to pinpoint the exact ones for my vehicle with just the reg. Eurocarparts was the same for me, lots to choose from. There are some option codes on the VIN sticker you can cross ref, but mine actually didn't match any of the offerings from ECP. Ended up with "Apec" brake pads/discs, I had never heard of them before but the motor factors twisted my arm, they're cheaper than most things ECP offer, and i've had absolutely no issues with them bar being a tiny bit fiddly to fit as the backing did not extend fully around the edges like on the OE pads. The discs are good quality too, and they work just fine. Fitting kits are available for some cars that need them too. Would I put them on a high performance vRS? Probably not, but they work fine for my normal A-B driving... so much so that i've put them on my partners car too, and they'll also go on the Fiesta when they're due.

Maybe to align the UK with europe? There was always a disparity with the 1.6 TDI, UK advice was 5 years or 100k, but then europe was 10 years. I wonder if its been changed for these engines too... hmm.

Mine had a well and truly deserved Haldex service. I've been putting it off for a year as I could not think how to, safely, get the car level and off the floor enough to get under it. In the end I had a friend who works in a garage stick it on the lift... and thank god I did because I'm not sure I'd have managed that on my back. My findings: 1. Doesn't that oil stink 2. The screen was as blocked up as you can expect it would be 30k miles after the last "Skoda" service (i.e. drain and re-fill). Pulled another two fingers worth of crap out of the unit where the pump sits too. 3. The metal screen/shield over the pump wiring was greener than my bogies. The wiring seems intact though. 4. My Haldex makes funny noises when you do the pump re-learn. I've never heard it "screech" like it does during the re-learn, when driving, and as far as I can tell the 4WD is actually working, I have found every slippery surface in a 20 mile radius and cannot get it to wheelspin the front, only had a couple of chirps. I've asked a company that specialises in Haldex stuff if they've ever heard the screeching before, I don't think its the pump as you can hear the pump spin up fine, I do wonder if the pressure relief valve is a bit gummed up and maybe stuck slightly open... luckily it seems that you may be able to remove that without dropping the liquid gold out of the unit again... and if so, I might take it out and see if I can see whats up (or order another, maybe, at £69 each).

15k changes is 10k miles? Interestingly enough, I found that Euro Car Parts actually sell a Triple QX 5w/30 oil with 507 00 approval, not too expensive either!

Or that people who buy them have no concept of what a good tyre is. I certainly didn't on my first car until I nearly hit someone in torrential rain when my cheapo tyres just seemed to run out of grip. Never skimped on tyres again when buying them. Or a bit of both!

I third the tyre question. My previous car (100 hp, fwd) came with diabolical budget tyres, they would wheelspin in the dry and had about as much grip as silicone grease on anything. Transformed by simply changing the tyres to a decent brand (not expensive!). If they're the Michelin Energy Saver nonsense that was on my Octavia when I bought it, then also get rid. They weren't as bad as the previous ones, but still did not feel planted. Perfectly acceptable for a small hatchback round town, I wouldn't have recommended for a car the size of an Octy used anywhere.

I cannot say that I dont enthusiastically drive... that was another consideration too! I'm also aware that being all season tyres they are softer when its warmer (like... now!) 36psi (2.5 bar) is above both OEM recommendations for < 3 people, hence why i'm a bit confused why I appear to have "underinflation" type wear, but if that wear can also be explained by enthusiastic driving, then that's probably it! I'm certain they're still legal, but will get two ordered asap as never like to be right at the limit. If anyone is looking for all seasons, these have done 35k, have never let me down in grip in the dry, wet or snow (although they feel strange in corners esp when new, you get used to it).

Washing the car, with wheels turned full lock, and noticed the tyres looked a bit odd. I check the tread depth regularly, but have obviously ignored anything more in depth (I should be shot for this!). They are Goodyear Vector 4Seasons, so all season tyres, put on in 2019, so have now done approx 35k miles. Anyhoo, across the central 3/4 I have > 1.6mm (although it's pushing it at the edges, down to ~2mm at the 3/4 edge, so I will be looking for some new tyres asap), but the edges look more worn than the center (and measures too, center depth is 3.5mm~). The edges that would be facing the N/S seem especially bad. Nothing was mentioned at the previous service or MOT 10 months or so ago. Tyre wear pictures online show that it might be a mix of alignment, and also underinflation, but that IS something I keep on top of checking, and generally run at 36psi front and rear, since i'm not the smallest of people, and the boot generally has a fair bit of stuff in it (but nowhere near 3 passengers weights worth in the back). The rears seem even and are only at 5.8mm or so. Aside from a 4 wheel alignment (which is planned after the new tyres), is this wear pretty standard of an Octavia? Or is something more suspicious going on... handling seems as fine as it is on all seasons in 25+ degrees C weather! The fat twi looking thing top right of the nsf picture is the snow limit, the legal twi is 5 treads below it