Benshepherd

I just used the cheap kit at the link below. It's not available on Amazon currently but there are plenty of other ones that are similar. I paid £12. There are two locking devices in the kit for the crankshaft but each is different and you only use one of them. For the camshaft sprocket, I found the ball ended pin a bit too tight but a 5mm drill bit did nicely. The tensioner i just locked with an Allen key. So in reality I only actually used one bit out of the kit. Obviously whichever you buy just ensure it's compatible with your engine - I'm assuming yours is the CAYC engine. https://tinyurl.com/yjpnqaqb

I do 30 to 35k miles per year so I'm servicing mine every 3-4 months (I tend to change oil every 9-10k miles). Best thing I did was swapping the oil sump plug for a Fumoto quikvalve plug which is basically a tap with a safety mechanism in it. I have attached a piece of hose to it and cut a 5-6 cm hole in the undertray so I can open the valve. I drive it on ramps and then it's literally 10 seconds to get the oil starting to drain. I've used these valves for 10+ years and couldn't recommend them more highly.

Thank you. Changing the pollen filter really does require getting into an awkward position and last time I got a faceful of leaves and insects 😄

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions - I genuinely appreciate it. However, I have finally fixed it :-) I am fairly obsessive about doing everything up with a torque wrench, but I hadn't done so for the top strut nuts as my offset spanners did not go to 21mm, so i had got a bit lazy. I had just wrapped the rod in some tough rubber, gently held it in some mole grips right at the top end and whizzed the nut on with my impact gun. However, clearly not tight enough as I tend to err on the side of caution with an impact gun. As it was the only thing I hadn't checked the torque of it was really bothering me. I have just been out and fortunately managed to get a socket on from the top end through the hole under the wipers, held the socket with my mole grips, and threaded a 7mm hex bit down the middle. It was clearly not tight enough and managed to get a couple of turns on. Just driven 100m down the bumpy lane opposite my house and it is silent :-) I am relieved as thought I was going to have to go to a garage and not done that for many years! However, also rather annoyed with myself. The upside is that I reckon I can change my front shocks in reasonably quick time now having had a bit of practice. Thanks again.

Hi, it's coming from both sides now. It was just the driver's side yesterday as I'd only done the shock on that side. Now I've done the other side, it's coming from both 😞 I've checked on the Sachs website as they're Sachs shocks and they're definitely the correct ones. I'm just going to check if the Febi top mounts are the right ones, but no reason to suspect they aren't as they looked the same as the originals. It's definitely not the under tray, it's just not that sort of noise and also I've had a look there to check no tools lost. It's also not really a heat shield noise, it's definitely suspension related. I'm really running out of ideas. I can't imagine I did anything wrong removing the hub - just undid the bolt and tapped the shafts out, it was easy. I torqued them up again properly after although didn't use a new bolt but can't see that causing a noise.

There is definitely something weird here. Took the strut off the side I'd done and everything looked perfect although I did not disassemble the strut as spring looked like it was seated just right. I then did the other side. Put it all back together and both sides doing it. Real loud, harsh rattle on going over bumps. All I can possibly think is the shocks are not the right ones. They look exactly the same size, I double checked. Only other bits I changed were the top strut mounts and the drop link for the ARB. Again, the new parts looked exactly the same. Either a part is the wrong one, or I've done something really stupid twice. I've done many shocks before so I don't expect that it's something I've done. Don't really know what to do now. Do I order new shocks??

That was my initial thought too but I didn't notice any gaps in my various tool kits when I packed everything away last night. I will go and take another look though.

Thanks. Yes I'm pretty certain it is. Bottom end is nestled right within the notch. Top end there is no specific place for the end of the spring to sit in. I put a new your strut mount on there. Really not sure what it could be. I did remove the hub. Can't see though what I could have done there that would cause this.

Glad it wasn't just mine then. Anyhow, took it for a test drive this morning and there is a terrible rattle/clunk on going over bumps 😞 I thought maybe the ARB link but that's brand new. I did however remove that and drove about 100m so it's not that. Everything was torqued properly. Really not sure what it is, but clearly something I've done as it wasn't there before shock removed. Think I'm going to have to pull it all apart again today. Only consolation is that everything won't be seized. Any ideas?

Sorry about the typos 😞

I don't claim to be a great mechanic but I'm reasonably handy at fixing and maintaining my vehicles, having done everything required on all my cars and trucks for 15+ years. I've also done shocks, springs etc several times previously on other cars. Well today's job of changing a front shock was awful. My Octavia has done £170k and is still in original parts. The strut pinch bolt was easy, as were the 3 bolts for the ball joint. I knew the drop link would be seized so I just cut those bolts. However getting the windscreen wipers off was tricky and broke my puller but managed with a spanner and hammer. The top 3 bolts were completely stuck and the nuts eventually just spun around. I ended up cutting 2 of the bolts off with an angle grinder and Dremel. Dismantling the strut was no better so as the but was seized. I think my low point was when I just couldn't be bothered and cut the shock rod with my mitre saw. Fortunately I had new top strut mounts (although not new bearings, but they were fine). Wish I'd bought new springs but I hadn't. In the end i only finished one side so I'll do the other next weekend. Is it normal for them to be such a drama to change?

I think I may go for the VCDS. No plans on getting rid of this car and even if I did I'd probably replace with another Skoda. About £225 seems to be the going price unless I'm missing something cheaper.

JR, what code reader do you use? I may just invest in a cheapish one that does airbag,. ABS codes etc. I can see a couple on eBay but any recommendations would be great. My current OBD2 reader has been great for basic code reading and clearing, but as my Skoda ages (I've got about 160k miles on it now), I expect to need to fix more stuff on it. Thanks.

Thanks again. I just went to take it for a drive and got about 10 metres and just the airbag light on now 🙂 My garage next to work can clear the airbag code for me so hopefully that's everything sorted. In 15 years of working on my own cars this is the first one that has brought up several lights after a battery removal, hence why I was panicking!

That's a great relief if it will just go off when I drive it. I've not taken it for a drive yet. Really grateful for the reassuring answers. I did scan with my OBD2 reader but it found no codes. I'd assumed airbag codes won't show up - I know they don't show up with an OBD2 reader on my Mitsubishis