BramptonTrev

As the seal had an impression of the lens unit pressed into it, I took the seal out, turned it over and put it back in, presenting a clean newish face to the lens unit. Anyone know of a part number for this seal? Looking at Skoda Karoq parts diagrams it is part of the light grey bulb holder unit and not listed separately.

Viorel_92. Thanks for the photo. I took my light cluster apart agin today, and guess what, moisture on this particular seal. So I now assume that is where it was leaking. Photo attached of the seal on it's own.

I would be interested to know which seal as there did not seem to be an obvious seal to me. Picture perhaps?

An update. I found out what was the item that fell in behind the bumper on removing the light unit. It is a small clear plastic spacer about 5mm wide, 15mm long and 1mm thick with self adhesive to stick to the rim. There should be 2 on the upper side and 1 underneath. Photo attached. You can see one of the upper ones. The other upper one did go on similar 'fins' at the opposite end - so I improvised with a sellotape double sided sticky pad. The 4 screws hold the inner reflector assembley in place but as the whole unit is sealed undoing the screws merely result in a loose internal unit. A tip - when removing the grey bulb holder assembly from the lens unit, beware that the 2 halogen type bulbs can easily fall out if caught on the lens unit - they then fall inside the lens unit which means a lot of rotating the lens unit to get a bulb to fall out. The lens is now dryish. I dont really know how the water got in - my guess it was using a hopepipe for washing the car and a lot of water got through the gap between the light cluster and car body - there is a 1mm gap all round - most of the water will have drained away down the back of the bumper but some may have got i around the halogen bulb opening.

I have condensation in my Karoq's offside rear light cluster - photo attached. The karoq is 68 reg and has done about 38k miles. So I followed the instructions in the Skoda Workshop Manual to remove the rear light cluster - many thanks to the forum member who published a thread with lots of links to workshop manuals. I unscrewed the big spring loaded retaining screw and eventually the light cluster pulled out horizontally and away directly backwards from the body. Something clicked and it sounded like a small part falling down into the bodywork hole behind the bumper - anyone know what this might have been or was it simply a spring loaded plastic clip making a noise when I removed the lamp cluster. I shined a torch down the bodywork hole but was unable to see anything. I detached the halogen bulb holder (two bulbs). I was not able to disconnect the wiring loom plug - too difficult to work out which was the springy bit that needed depressing or whatever. So I now have the halogen bulb holder assembley connected by its wire back into the body and and the led/lens body connected by a few thin black wire for the leds. I was not able to disconnect the led wires - the plastic springy could be depressed but the connector was a very tight fit and would not pull put and I did not try some pliers or screwdriver or other implement. On rotating the lens unit several times, a large amount of water drained out, seemed like 0.5 pint. On attempting to put the halogen holder back into the led/lens unit, more water poured out. So a bit more of rotating the various parts to ensure the led/lens unit was empty and eventually all went back together and into the car and it all seems to be working ok. So, the following questions: * has anyone tried to unscrew the lens unit from the led holder part - there seemed to be 4 spider/torx screws holding it all together? Does it come easily apart? * anyone know how all this water might get in? A bad seal between the lens unit and the led holder. The Skoda workshop manunal does not include any details on further dismantling the rear light cluster - it only desecribes enough to change the halogen bulbs. Apologies if what I have said are halogen bulbs are actually LED bulb looking like halgens.

No - I did not go looking for a part. And currently the flap is as shown in the photos.

Fixed. The video was very useful. I watched it a few times before removing the glove box. It was the light connection. All now working again. Thank you

Dark now. No light from glove box. I guess it got disconnected when the pollen filter was changed. We are using the car a lot for a day or so and therefore will follow the video at the week-end. Thanks again.

Thanks. I have got bright sunshine at the moment so cannot determine if the glovebox light comes on, so will check later. Also the connection point is not visible so could be a case of needing to remove the glovebox so a job for a few days time.

I have noticed a loose cable in the passenger (nearside) footwell. Photos below. Any ideas? Also the foam type material to cover the underside area of the glove box is secured by one plastic button (about 1cm in diamater, looks like a push in securing button). Should there be more or other securing devices? Skoda Karoq SE L 1.5 TSI reg Nov 2018.

I found this thread whilst considering whether to buy Skoda's extended warranty as I was particularly interested in the long term reliability of the DSG box. There is mention of whether to service/change oil in the DSG at 4 years. My Skoda service plan has "DSG Gearbox Service" at end of year 4. Previous automatics have been a K reg Volvo 240 Estate 2.0 auto - the auto box was problem free for at least 17 years and still going ok when we sold it. A Y reg Ford Mondeo Estate 2.0 auto estate that continued to go well when my parents sold it at 12 years old. The car is a 68 reg Karoq SE l 1.5 DSG. It had it's 3 year service last week and also now has an MOT. The car will be 3 years old around 27th Nov. Mileage is 25k. I drive it with the stop/start off. Note - stop/start not used as I find it a nuisance in car parks, most of the stops at traffic lights, etc. are on slopes - stop with the foot brake. We rarely encounter M25 stop/start traffic as the roads around here are freeing moving and being retired we can avoid rush hour queues. So I am thinking the DSG will be reliable long term - the plan is to keep the car for around 10 years or so and then buy a zero emissions car, i.e. electric - or perhaps sooner if suitable cost effective cars appear - the 50% uplift for electric is a bit much and there are other more effective greener 'investments' for less money. The Skoda extended warranty being offered is around £150-£200 depending on the excess - so I think I will take this up for the 4th year. Any comments welcome on the DSG and warranty.

Two photos of the Karoq Vario Flex rear seat electrical connections. One shows the floor pan with the nearside seat connections (the double block of which only one is used on my Karoq) and the red warning triangle flap cover for the centre seat. Why does only the centre seat have a flip over red triangle warning flap? As you can seat one part of the cover for the nearside seat has got broken, probably by the heavy seat being dropped on it in the wrong position. The second photo shows the missing part which has broken into 2. Is this small flap available as a spare part? It has the following moulded in - >PBT-GF20< and 10138397? If not available, your suggestion(s) please as to which type of glue could be used to glue another plastic strip across the back or the front to hold the 2 parts together.

To Ash West. Do you have a photo?

We have a 68 plate 1.5 DSG (registered about Sept/Oct/Nov 2018) which we bought May 2019. At its first service in Sept-Nov 2019 it had a software update (sorry - don't know if it was 1 or 2 updates). Before the update it would hesitate a bit when cold but the first 300 yards from our drive was slight downhill (so no load on engine) and 6 90 degree bends and so was in 1st or 2nd gear most of the time and it would hesitate a the chicane halfway when I need to brake to slow down and the engine was trying to run at 1000rpm in second but was thinking about changing down etc. Once out of out cul-de-sac and onto a better road it pulled away ok up through the gears. So it did not like slow speed when cold. The software update has resolved 95% of the cold downhill start and it is more like a normal cold automatic that is struggling to work out which gear and what rpm at the same point. Our previous CVT Jazz had no problem with the cold downhill start. We have had other automatics (Volvo 240, Mondeo 2.0 and others) and NONE have exhibited these problems (which rather like driving a Morris Minor or old mini with not enough manual choke when cold!) If you like this 69 plate you MUST go and see it and test drive - DO NOT buy without seeing. When you test drive, the engine MUST be cold, as in cold from overnight. If the dealer has moved the car during the day before you try it,DO NOT test drive as the cold symptoms WILL NOT show up. DO NOT let the dealer run the engine and demo all the electric gizmos as running the engine for a few minutes (3-5 minutes) will warm the engine up enough to get rid of any cold symptoms. When you first pull away from cold DO NOT let the engine go into third - I suggest you pull away to get the car moving into second and then stop the car and repeat 2 or 3 times. We like our car . I was not aware of the problem before buying and when the salesman demos the car we sat with the engine running for about 20 minutes in the dealership car park while the salesperson went through all the electric gizmos. Would we have bought it knowing about the hestiation, probably not at the time - would have chosen a different engine perhaps or another car altogether. But we like the car and it is ok now.

I did think that when I got the email. But I am not a member and Google d the survey to get the link posted above which does not require a login but does require an email address. I have completed the survey and ticked the ecu 'repair' box as my Karoq had the software upgrade and runs better.