BramptonTrev

As the seal had an impression of the lens unit pressed into it, I took the seal out, turned it over and put it back in, presenting a clean newish face to the lens unit. Anyone know of a part number for this seal? Looking at Skoda Karoq parts diagrams it is part of the light grey bulb holder unit and not listed separately.

Viorel_92. Thanks for the photo. I took my light cluster apart agin today, and guess what, moisture on this particular seal. So I now assume that is where it was leaking. Photo attached of the seal on it's own.

I would be interested to know which seal as there did not seem to be an obvious seal to me. Picture perhaps?

An update. I found out what was the item that fell in behind the bumper on removing the light unit. It is a small clear plastic spacer about 5mm wide, 15mm long and 1mm thick with self adhesive to stick to the rim. There should be 2 on the upper side and 1 underneath. Photo attached. You can see one of the upper ones. The other upper one did go on similar 'fins' at the opposite end - so I improvised with a sellotape double sided sticky pad. The 4 screws hold the inner reflector assembley in place but as the whole unit is sealed undoing the screws merely result in a loose internal unit. A tip - when removing the grey bulb holder assembly from the lens unit, beware that the 2 halogen type bulbs can easily fall out if caught on the lens unit - they then fall inside the lens unit which means a lot of rotating the lens unit to get a bulb to fall out. The lens is now dryish. I dont really know how the water got in - my guess it was using a hopepipe for washing the car and a lot of water got through the gap between the light cluster and car body - there is a 1mm gap all round - most of the water will have drained away down the back of the bumper but some may have got i around the halogen bulb opening.

I have condensation in my Karoq's offside rear light cluster - photo attached. The karoq is 68 reg and has done about 38k miles. So I followed the instructions in the Skoda Workshop Manual to remove the rear light cluster - many thanks to the forum member who published a thread with lots of links to workshop manuals. I unscrewed the big spring loaded retaining screw and eventually the light cluster pulled out horizontally and away directly backwards from the body. Something clicked and it sounded like a small part falling down into the bodywork hole behind the bumper - anyone know what this might have been or was it simply a spring loaded plastic clip making a noise when I removed the lamp cluster. I shined a torch down the bodywork hole but was unable to see anything. I detached the halogen bulb holder (two bulbs). I was not able to disconnect the wiring loom plug - too difficult to work out which was the springy bit that needed depressing or whatever. So I now have the halogen bulb holder assembley connected by its wire back into the body and and the led/lens body connected by a few thin black wire for the leds. I was not able to disconnect the led wires - the plastic springy could be depressed but the connector was a very tight fit and would not pull put and I did not try some pliers or screwdriver or other implement. On rotating the lens unit several times, a large amount of water drained out, seemed like 0.5 pint. On attempting to put the halogen holder back into the led/lens unit, more water poured out. So a bit more of rotating the various parts to ensure the led/lens unit was empty and eventually all went back together and into the car and it all seems to be working ok. So, the following questions: * has anyone tried to unscrew the lens unit from the led holder part - there seemed to be 4 spider/torx screws holding it all together? Does it come easily apart? * anyone know how all this water might get in? A bad seal between the lens unit and the led holder. The Skoda workshop manunal does not include any details on further dismantling the rear light cluster - it only desecribes enough to change the halogen bulbs. Apologies if what I have said are halogen bulbs are actually LED bulb looking like halgens.

No - I did not go looking for a part. And currently the flap is as shown in the photos.

Fixed. The video was very useful. I watched it a few times before removing the glove box. It was the light connection. All now working again. Thank you

Dark now. No light from glove box. I guess it got disconnected when the pollen filter was changed. We are using the car a lot for a day or so and therefore will follow the video at the week-end. Thanks again.

Thanks. I have got bright sunshine at the moment so cannot determine if the glovebox light comes on, so will check later. Also the connection point is not visible so could be a case of needing to remove the glovebox so a job for a few days time.

I have noticed a loose cable in the passenger (nearside) footwell. Photos below. Any ideas? Also the foam type material to cover the underside area of the glove box is secured by one plastic button (about 1cm in diamater, looks like a push in securing button). Should there be more or other securing devices? Skoda Karoq SE L 1.5 TSI reg Nov 2018.

I found this thread whilst considering whether to buy Skoda's extended warranty as I was particularly interested in the long term reliability of the DSG box. There is mention of whether to service/change oil in the DSG at 4 years. My Skoda service plan has "DSG Gearbox Service" at end of year 4. Previous automatics have been a K reg Volvo 240 Estate 2.0 auto - the auto box was problem free for at least 17 years and still going ok when we sold it. A Y reg Ford Mondeo Estate 2.0 auto estate that continued to go well when my parents sold it at 12 years old. The car is a 68 reg Karoq SE l 1.5 DSG. It had it's 3 year service last week and also now has an MOT. The car will be 3 years old around 27th Nov. Mileage is 25k. I drive it with the stop/start off. Note - stop/start not used as I find it a nuisance in car parks, most of the stops at traffic lights, etc. are on slopes - stop with the foot brake. We rarely encounter M25 stop/start traffic as the roads around here are freeing moving and being retired we can avoid rush hour queues. So I am thinking the DSG will be reliable long term - the plan is to keep the car for around 10 years or so and then buy a zero emissions car, i.e. electric - or perhaps sooner if suitable cost effective cars appear - the 50% uplift for electric is a bit much and there are other more effective greener 'investments' for less money. The Skoda extended warranty being offered is around £150-£200 depending on the excess - so I think I will take this up for the 4th year. Any comments welcome on the DSG and warranty.

Two photos of the Karoq Vario Flex rear seat electrical connections. One shows the floor pan with the nearside seat connections (the double block of which only one is used on my Karoq) and the red warning triangle flap cover for the centre seat. Why does only the centre seat have a flip over red triangle warning flap? As you can seat one part of the cover for the nearside seat has got broken, probably by the heavy seat being dropped on it in the wrong position. The second photo shows the missing part which has broken into 2. Is this small flap available as a spare part? It has the following moulded in - >PBT-GF20< and 10138397? If not available, your suggestion(s) please as to which type of glue could be used to glue another plastic strip across the back or the front to hold the 2 parts together.

To Ash West. Do you have a photo?

We have a 68 plate 1.5 DSG (registered about Sept/Oct/Nov 2018) which we bought May 2019. At its first service in Sept-Nov 2019 it had a software update (sorry - don't know if it was 1 or 2 updates). Before the update it would hesitate a bit when cold but the first 300 yards from our drive was slight downhill (so no load on engine) and 6 90 degree bends and so was in 1st or 2nd gear most of the time and it would hesitate a the chicane halfway when I need to brake to slow down and the engine was trying to run at 1000rpm in second but was thinking about changing down etc. Once out of out cul-de-sac and onto a better road it pulled away ok up through the gears. So it did not like slow speed when cold. The software update has resolved 95% of the cold downhill start and it is more like a normal cold automatic that is struggling to work out which gear and what rpm at the same point. Our previous CVT Jazz had no problem with the cold downhill start. We have had other automatics (Volvo 240, Mondeo 2.0 and others) and NONE have exhibited these problems (which rather like driving a Morris Minor or old mini with not enough manual choke when cold!) If you like this 69 plate you MUST go and see it and test drive - DO NOT buy without seeing. When you test drive, the engine MUST be cold, as in cold from overnight. If the dealer has moved the car during the day before you try it,DO NOT test drive as the cold symptoms WILL NOT show up. DO NOT let the dealer run the engine and demo all the electric gizmos as running the engine for a few minutes (3-5 minutes) will warm the engine up enough to get rid of any cold symptoms. When you first pull away from cold DO NOT let the engine go into third - I suggest you pull away to get the car moving into second and then stop the car and repeat 2 or 3 times. We like our car . I was not aware of the problem before buying and when the salesman demos the car we sat with the engine running for about 20 minutes in the dealership car park while the salesperson went through all the electric gizmos. Would we have bought it knowing about the hestiation, probably not at the time - would have chosen a different engine perhaps or another car altogether. But we like the car and it is ok now.

I did think that when I got the email. But I am not a member and Google d the survey to get the link posted above which does not require a login but does require an email address. I have completed the survey and ticked the ecu 'repair' box as my Karoq had the software upgrade and runs better.

Which are running their 202 car survey. If you had first gear problems you may wish to enter the survey. I have created a new thread

Which are running their 2020 car survey. If you had ECU/software problems, you may wish to enter the survey. I have created a new thread with the details at

Which are running their 2020 car survey. I got an email, did the survey but as it said there is no BACK button, I took the trouble to cut/paste the questions here so you can see in advance what you need to enter. Apologies in advance for any formatting difficulties. You may wish to respond. Which are running a car survey, see link below. https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/new-and-used-cars/article/which-car-survey/take-part-in-the-which-car-survey You will need some info to hand, reg no, year purchased by you, date the car was registered by first owner, current mileage. You will also need a full list of all items repaired, recalls - so get you list ready before you start. The survey has no BACK button, so here are the questions so you can be prepared in advance. Beware - some questions have options from very dissatisfied to very satisfied and the presentation is inconsistent - sometimes very dissatisfied is first, sometimes very satisfied is first. The survey requests some basic details about you, then how many cars, then asks for your main car. Main Car screen - so for my main car, I selected the Skoda Karoq, drop down selection list for: * manufacturer * fuel type * transmission type * model name * generation - year first registered * engine and trim level if shown Next - registration number screen Next - drop down for year first registered Next - month first registered screen Now we move onto "Telling us about your ...make/model" Next - own car/company car select screen Next - how long ago did you get your car screen Next - condition when purchased - new, nearly new (up to 1 year old) or used Next - purchase price to nearest thousand £ Next - how did you buy screen - cash, finance, credit card etc. Next - reason to buy screens - rate 1 through 5 - beware - you need to scroll right here as the number of options do not fit on a narrow screen window!! Be careful how you process this section to avoid accidental hits as you cannot go backwards!! * ride quality feedback screen * fuel efficiency and low running costs * Interior space for driver and passengers * Amount of in car tech * Oops I accidentally missed one here!!!! * Performance * Low emissions * The way the car looks * Boot space * Comfort and support of seats * Overall value for money Next - has you car been serviced by professional mechanic or dealer in last 12 months Next - faults and things fixed screen. This is a MAMMOTH list of click buttons , say 100, covering almost everything that can go wrong. There is a button specifically for the ECU. Sorry - I should have put a screen grab here - perhaps someone else can. I clicked the ECU and the got a screen How many times has this been repaired. So I expect you will get this screen again for each item repaired. Then you get more detailed questions about each repair * how long to do the repair screen * reasons why - about 6 combination of recall request/no recall/customer reported item/etc.-screen * Was your car off the road screen Next - who carried out the last service screen Next - how satisfied were you with who carried out the last service screen Next - would you recommend the servicer screen Next - start rating screen (like eBay feedback) for * boot space * fuel efficiency * ride quality * Interior space * in car tech * the way the car looks * performance * comfort and seats * overall value for money Next - level of satisfaction screen Next - sorry I forgot it Next * a 50 word comment box about how much you LOVE you car with buttons for 'no comment' and 'there is nothing I like about my car" * a 50 word comment about what is frustrating with buttons for "no comment" and "there is nothing frustrating" Next - Marketing request - please enter a location description for where you live , or a no button Next - current mileage screen - to nearest thousand miles Next - how many miles have you done in the car screen - to nearest thousand miles Next - fuel economy satisfaction rating screen Next - types of roads used %age - urban, motorway, rural - 3 splits requested Next - how did your sell your last car screen Next - your previous car - did you Bluetooth your mobile phone to the car screen Next - previous car - did you download an apps screen Next - things you did to your last car before selling screen * unsyncing mobile phone * app removal * manual delete personal data * perform factory reset to delete personal data Next - will you be replacing your car in the next 2 years screen Next - if you said you had more than one car - do you wish to do all the question again for the second car Next - breakdown cover 2 screens Next - have you called out the breakdown service in the last 12 months screen Next - how many times have you driven your own car in mainland Europe in the last year. Next - would you like Which to email you to check responses to questions screen? Next - do you wish to enter the prize draw screen Next - would you like to be included in next years survey screen Next - a box for any comments you may have on this survey. END OF SURVEY.

What was the price of the wipers. And do they properly work with no squeaks, etc? The reason I ask this is that I found on our previous Honda Jazz any wiper blade make other than Honda would not work 100% but would give squeaks or judder, etc. And Bosch wipers were not as good as the Honda ones. I have replaced both my front wipers with Skoda ones and they work ok but are expensive and thus maybe looking at Bosch next time.

The key-fob had the (1) original Skoda battery (registered 3.0v on multi-meter but no red light on key-fob) which I replaced with (2) a battery from a multi-pack probably from Poundland and would be 2+ years old - registered 3.0v on multi-meter but no red light on key-fob and replaced with (3) brand new battery from a JCB multi-pack (£1 for 6 assorted) from Home Bargains or Wilko - and it worked first time no problem and no resync.

Problem solved. It would appear not all batteries are equal. I bought some brand new batteries today and hey presto the key fob now emits a red light when you press any button and now works ok.

Thanks for the replies. I will try the resyncing but am not optimistic. When you press any key on the working key fob, you get a red light on the key fob which indicates the key fob has sent a command out (in the same way as some tv remotes work). The bad key fob emits no light whatsoever, as you might expect if the battery is totally dead, and thus I expect no 'command' to the car. So looking like a phone call / trip to the dealer and hopefully a warranty FOC item.

Our second key fob is not working. There is no red light when you press any button. The second key fob battery has been tested with a meter and shows 3.0 v. I have changed the second key fob battery for a brand new battery which also shows 3.0v and still no red light when you press a button. The second key fob resides in my wife's handbag who does not drive so the second key fob is not used to start the car and we do not know when the second key fob was last used to open/close the doors or how long the red light has not worked - we just spotted this today. The first key fob works fine. Any suggestions?

Our Karoq (1.5 DSG SEL, Nov 18) went in for it's first service (10k miles) on Wednesday this week at Telford Skoda Carlisle. It also had the 24Eu campaign done - 2 software updates. The EU24 campaign was stated by Telfords - I did not have to ask. On the drive home the engine did seem to run more smoothly. The real test was Friday am when cold. The Karoq is parked on our drive, sloping downhill and the first 200+ metres down our cul-de-sac is downhill with 5 90degree bends and 2 45 degree bends, a few parked cars and be wary of children. So not above 2nd gear, quite a bit of use of the brakes and the engine mostly acting as a brake. The bad part was half way down between 2 90 degree bends, in 2nd gear where there would usually be 3-5 hesitations (almost 100% guaranteed). And now a success - the Karoq ran smoothly all the way down as per our current Vauxhall Agila 1.3 and a previous Honda Jazz CVT. Since the service, we have now done 200+ miles, 140 on the M6. The engine does seem to respond more smoothly to the accelerator pedal - any slight pedal movement and you can feel the appropriate engine response as though an old fashioned carburetor with cable attachment. So looking good. I had not raised the hesitation as I have been following the various threads on these forums. We like the car - the only unfavourable item being the hesitations down our cul-de-sac when cold.

Re Apparently the issue was lack of power to the alternator . Why would that be a problem? If there is not enough engine power to turn the alternator to generate enough electrical power, then surely that is where the car's battery comes in to provide electrical power? Or is there a battery/alternator cutout/charging problem as well? I recall some older motorcycles which had a magneto - if the engine revs dropped the magneto did not turn enough to generate the electrical power to create the spark so the engine died. Do we have a similar problem here? I can understand an engine not running properly (perhaps even dieing) due to a poor 'spark' (due to plugs needing changing or sub-standard plugs fitted).