dcr

It looks like the end of the rear tie bar on a 4x4 that attaches to the sperical type bearings on the rear hub, my money is that the bearing partially seized and fatigued the bar over time. Going outside to check mine later!

the 239 are 4x4 solid discs,232 everythingelse apart from the VRS which has 256 vented.If your fronts are 288 then the carrier only is needed to fit 312 from the VRS,Golf V5 is likely to be 312 so you would only need the caliper carrier. if you have 280 front the whole setup is different and you would need the whole V5 setup HTH, Dave

I had a similar problem with my 4x4 but not until i had the remap for a couple of years. Did the usual N75 MAF etc. Finally checked the fuel pressure and it seemed ok but I picked up a S/H fuel pump and it was cured. The 4x4 pump is different as it drives the N/S pick up as well, so whether it works harder and can't keep up so well with the increased demand. Anyway, my 2p worth Dave

The 4x4 has a different main pump with 2 outputs , the second pump is powered by that pumps extra output , not electric. It keeps the fuel in the main pick up side of the tank.I know because I had problems with mine struggling to keep enough pressure.

The 4x4 pump is different but AFAIUI the rest are pretty much the same

Had a good play in the snow on sunday in the Shropshire Hills, finally beaten by over a foot of snow up hill, out came the chains and off we went again! Unstoppable !

The octavia one is listed as 1U0907503 on Vagcat and the drawings look identical.At that price I would try it, just see if any codes tell you if it is the front or rear sensor to save the extra effort hth Dave

I get about 35 on A roads with a bit of overtaking , same at a steady 75 on the motorway. Around town well under 30 but I don't do much of that. The biggest thing I notice is if I enjoy it while it is cold it takes a lot to get the numbers back up, the 4 miles of dual carriageway a mile from home on the way to work can really mess it up! Mine is remapped but it wasn't much better before!

There are some tests for the Haldex, found these online. The rolling test shows whether the Haldex is engaging. I have tried it and it is a noticeable difference , worth trying first. "First run a VAG-COM diagnostic on the AWD system. A bad controller or connection issue will likely show up here Mechanical Function-test of the Haldex coupling. - Rollout in circle Aim: Check the function of the coupling and the response on the car. Is to be done on level ground. 1. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at a speed of about 10 km/h. Disengage the clutch and close the throttle. Let the car roll to full stop. 2. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at same speed as in case 1. Disengage the clutch and run up the engine to 3000 - 4000 rpm. Let the car roll to full stop. * If the coupling is working the car will stop in about half the distance in case 2 compared with case 1. * If there is no difference in the two cases there is a malfunction of the coupling. The problem could be caused by the coupling or by missing signals from the car. A further inspection has to be done to be able to determine the cause of the malfunction. * If a noise from the HLSC is noticed when turning or driving in circles the oil in the coupling is damaged. The damage can be caused by overheating or by water in the oil. - AWD test on car lift. (all wheels free to turn.) Aim: Check the function and the control of the coupling. 1. Pull the handbrake. Disengage the clutch. Start the engine. Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear. Let the engine idle. Engage the clutch. * Engine is supposed to stop when the clutch is engaged. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake start.) If engine do not stop, disengage the hand brake immediately. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC. 2. Disengage the handbrake. Disengage the clutch and start the engine Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear. Let the engine idle. Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn. Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds. * Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC. Trouble shooting on HLSC - Visual inspection Aim: Check for leakage and external damage that affects the function on the HLSC. Is to be done with the car on a car lift. 1. Check for oil-leakage from the coupling. If leakage is found, check oil level at the level screw on the left side of the coupling. 2. Check wires and connecting sockets. T8 - Socket between car and control unit T8/1, Red = Ign. T8/2, Black = Gnd. T8/3, White = BLS T8/4, Blue = HBLS T8/5, Brown = K-line T8/7, Blue/Grey = CAN low T8/8, Blue/Orange = CAN high T2 - Socket between control unit and feeder pump T2/1, Yellow = Pump 1 T2/2, Yellow/Black = Pump 2 - Signals Aim: The following signals from the car affect the function of the HLSC. If one or more of the signals is missing or false the function of the HLSC will be reduced. Bremse 1; BLS, BTS, ABS Bremse 3; VR, VL, HR, HL HTH, Dave

That's really cheap, i needed a back box and couldn't find an aftermarket one on its own. Had a stainless one made up with centre silencer for £300. There are other downpipes on Ebay but not at that kind of price. If you click on the downpipe in your link you can see the gaskets needed. Expect to fight with the downpipe to turbo bolts, and if they are anything like, mine the bolts onto the cat will hardly be recogniseable as bolts and nuts!

That sounds just like mine, adjusted it as much as I could but still takes the edge off the tyre.Another job to add to the list!

Mine does it too, i had to rebolt the heatshield to the cat before so I expect it is the heatshield above the cat in the tunnel on mine making a noise, must try and have a look sometime.I only notice it with the window open and low revs so it gets forgotten in the winter! Dave

There is no pressure monitoring so the ECU has no idea! would have saved me lots of time and buying a fuel pressure tester if it had!

Well after months of living with the hesitation and trying different things to fix it , finally I fitted the second hand fuel fump this morning and it is cured! I now have my car with full power and don't have to plan every overtake very carefully , it just goes when asked.I have still to check the fuel pressure again to see the difference from the old pump ( which held just under 3 bars) but was not enough to cope on snap throttle openings or on full boost. I could drive through it on a light throttle with no real urge then give it full throttle at about 4k and it would go ok but not like it does now. It also affected the fuel consumption on the trip computer ,due to I think the increased pulse duration to keep the mixture ok. Hopefully this pump will last until find a new one. The car has done 153k now so I suppose it is to be expected, shame it didn't just stop all those months ago ,would have made fault finding much easier!I have my car back as I remember it and a smile to go with it, Happy doesn't really do it justice! Dave