modmytop

Sold. Still in Portsmouth area.

#122 for sale https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202604121486789?advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=vRS&atmobcid=soc5&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3DvRS%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DFabia%26postcode%3DBN23%25205AU%26sort%3Drelevance%26page%3D3%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=550&calc-mileage=10000&calc-term=48&fromsra=&make=Skoda&model=Fabia&searchId=2d4b589f-7a12-4800-9bd0-1427dbf18456&sort=relevance&utm_medium=mobile-web&utm_source=share

Hi Pete. Yes I've seen the videos. Just waiting for a break in the weather to attack the passenger door. Had the driver's door apart recently to fit one of your fixed window control modules. Windows still operating OK.

I tried again last night, but this time I waited for the interior lights to go out after each door was opened/closed. Found the front passenger door doesn't operate the interior or puddle lights when opened. All other doors, including the boot do. So I will check the wires in the front passenger door and if OK, I guess its the door lock microswitch?

Yes. I think it does for all 4 doors

Hi all. 2007 Fabia Mk1. 4 door. Car has started locking itself after I have unlocked it with the fob. It is not the usual 30 second lock if no doors are opened. I can unlock, then open the drivers door. Interior lights come on and puddle light in door. Then the locks try and lock again. When it does lock, it doesn't light the driver's door LED. So it the same effect as if you press the lock/unlock button on the drivers door. Happens when engine is running and when not. I had the VCDS on it and it came back with the following fault: Address 09: Cent Elect. ... Fault Found: 01598 - Drive Battery voltage 07-10 - Signal too low - Intermittent Searching the forums has led me to a ground wire on the battery negative. Some people say this is a sensing wire for the convenience unit. Wire looks in good condition. Others say battery voltage may be too low. Get over 14V when running. Any ideas before I start looking for broken wires in the doors?

I sent my window controller off to BreezyPete on an exchange basis. His repaired one had my windows working again. I had my deposit paid to my account a few days after sending him my unit. Many thanks Pete.

Thanks for the response. Wouldn't the auxiliary pump failure be picked by VCDS?

Had a thought. What if the LIN isn't working as it should, but the activity is enough for the passenger door module to allow local control. The LIN is normally 12V, but does go low. The messages from the master in driver's door probably tell the slave to go up or down. But if the LIN is corrupted the slave would ignore.

Thanks Pete. Will do a bit more experimenting here first

Agreed.

Portsmouth. Petty sure before I reflowed the PCB, neither door worked off their own switches. Only the passenger door would work for a short time after reconnecting battery. Now LIN is working and passenger window works indefinitely from it's switch. 2007 MK1 Fabia

Fuse 11 ok. Bit of a problem with door lock. Not able to turn lock with key. Seems to be locked up. Previous owner used fob to lock. Tried to get lock out to soak in wd40 but lock is also stuck. Left lock soaking. So do you think convenience module could be involved?

The passenger side has not been disconnected. Prior to me reflowing the drivers PCB, the passenger window only operated for a while after the battery was reconnected. Now the LIN is working, the passenger side works from it's switch indefinitely. Just no operation on driver's side.

Isn't the fact that the LIN is working a sign that the (possible) dry joint on the resonator is fixed? Not trying to tell you, I know you have spent many hours investigating these issues. I am just interested. Replacing the surface mount resonator is beyond my soldering skills, the capacitor was hard enough! It appears the LIN now gets to the passenger door to allow local control of the passenger window. I assume the resonator produces a clock to the microcontroller. What other signs of poor resonator can I check for?

Hi all, I raised a thread some time ago about no heat from my Yeti. Unfortunately I didn't get any response. 2016 2.0 TD 110BHP. I thought it might be a temperature sensor or one of the flaps stuck, so got a VCDS and no faults were found. Well there was one, think it was air quality sensor that turns the air circulation to internal when the air outside is a bit dodgy. Not done anything about that. It has climatic control and with the temperature dial set to max you still get not heat out. I pulled a bit of trim in the passenger footwell and can see the pipes going to the heater matrix. With the car warmed out, temp gauge showing 90, these pipes remain cold. I performed the two stage air bleed of the coolant system with VCDS. No improvement. The heater pipe in the engine bay has a small pipe that goes back the filler bottle, so it looks like it should self bleed anyway? I think I read somewhere that the heater matrix is in series with the EGR cooler, I could be wrong. So is it a blocked matrix, an air lock or a blocked water pipe in the EGR value? Is a vacuum fill of the coolant system required?

Hi all, Fabia MK1 VRS, so electric front windows only. Right hand drive. Some time back the windows would intermittently, when controlled from drivers side. Eventually they packed up altogether. I followed the various threads on the subject on this forum, and thought the problem was with the PCB in the driver's window motor/controller. No broken wires near A pillar. The passenger side would operate if battery was disconnected/reconnected for a while and then stop. The drivers side did nothing. So took drivers motor out and looked at the PCB. Changed the capacitor but it did no good. Then some more reading and read Breezy Pete's thread about the resonator on the PCB. I looked at the LIN output and had no waveform, the signal was stuck at 12V. I heated the PCB around the resonator and found the LIN was operating, at least I could see a signal going low occasionally. Great, so I've fixed it. Back in car still no window operation from driver's switch (pass or drivers window), but passenger door switch operates pass window. Something it didn't do before. LIN working OK. FYI the interior light comes on when opening driver's or passenger door. The drivers side window switch changes the voltage on the wires on the controller connector, so I think I can rule out the switch. The passenger window operates from the passenger switch, but still no operation on either windows from the drivers side. Does this sound like the relay on the PCB is also faulty? I tested the coils and they both clicked. Is there any other connection to the PCB that could stop the drivers side from operating? Number on motor 6Y29590802 and SK240DDRS.

Not allowed to PM. Will check mileage later. Bodywork very good condition. Circular mark on one door. Recent MOT. Electric windows don't work. Driver's door doesn't lock. Wheels could do we a refurb.

I might be. #122 near Portsmouth. About 110 miles.

Hi all. Heater stopped working on my 2016 Yeti 2.0l diesel (Business?). Fan OK. Water temperature gauge shows normal 90 deg. I asked garage to do diagnostic to see whether one of the sensors might be out. Came back with: Engine management P20EE00 SCR NOx Catalyst efficiency below threshold. Bank 1. Air Con B10AF04 Air quality sensor defective (doesn't clear) From what I have read the air quality sensor senses bad air outside the car, and switches the air recirculation to interior. The NOx error is a bit of a worry, but as yet has not resulted in any EML on the dash. So none of these errors points to a problem with the heating. It has the dual climate control (climatronic?). I tried the flap calibration process. No difference. I read a thread about a sensor in the drivers air ducting. Wouldn't this have appeared on the diagnostic? Is there anything I can try to pin point the problem? The coolant level was a bit low. Still above minimum on the expansion tank. I added a bit. No difference. Could it be an air lock in the heater matrix? I thnk (I could be wrong) when it was working before and I want to demist the windscreen, it would only run the fan at slow speed, even though it was set to high speed, until the car warmed a bit. Now it runs at full speed. Another sign of a dodgey sensor?

Couple of visits a month. Up Friday, back Sunday. So an additional £50 pm. However. I am now considering keeping it, at least till the summer.

Don't know where I got #220 from! It's #122.

#220 now lives near Portsmouth. However as I use it to visit relatives in Croydon quite often and my route in is now guarded by ULEZ cameras, I am selling. Just over 100k miles. Just been serviced. Its very clean. Not been tuned or crashed. What should I be asking for it? I've seen some in the past for £5500.