RubyCubes

I'm trying to track down a refurbished ABS unit to replace my own that's gone. The one from my car is 3T0614517 (without a letter at the end) but I'm curious if the ones with letters at the end would work? I can find ones with an A and a B at the ends. > 3T0614517A > 3T0614517B Would these be likely to work or could they be problematic?

Ok so I got it sorted without needing to remove the door. The issue was that because of the repair job I did that involved ALL wires being cut and crimped, it was very difficult to get the orange snap clip (probably not the right term) into a 90 degree angle from the plug itself which is needed to get the plug to seat properly into the socket. Image attached shows where the orange snap clip needs to be able to move to in order to allow the plug to properly seat into the socket. Initially I could only get the orange clip down about 45 degrees after the repair job - I thought my pushing on the wires would pull out some of the crimps but thankfully they all stayed in place. I turned on ignition, read the codes, cleared them all, and bingo bango, all codes gone and the car will now lock itself and registers the drivers door as being closed. I think ideally if anyone comes across this, an alternative solution would have been to have gotten the right tool to allow you to release all of the wires from the plug so that you don't have to cut and repair them all. Though by cutting them all I have at least possibly done the preventative work on them all so may have no further trouble with this in the future - my car has over 300,000km on the clock (not bad for the supposedly dodgy BXE engine) so hopefully the next couple of hundred thousand won't involve further drivers door wiring issues.

I ended up not removing any of the individual wire connectors and instead just cut all of the wires to do some preventative work on all of them (see first pic below - this was mid way through the job). Doing this meant that I had to do the same for the wires inside the door (see second pic). So it did feel like it doubled the work but once I got into the flow of it things went straight forward enough and I have loads of wire to work with now so will be very easy to repair from the hinge if one of the crimps goes in the future. The drivers door airbag warning light was on and the car lost communication with the control unit in the drivers door - I couldn't lock the car anymore and when in the car the dash showed the drivers door being open even though it was closed. Ah that's a deadly find - thanks a mil - looks easy peasy (famous last words!). Just to check though, when removing the check strap, do I remove it from the car side (white arrow) or the door side (yellow arrows)?

Those black headed things are plastic caps that just pop off and show an inverse torx screw (not sure that's the proper term) - could they be the way to go to remove the door?

Looks like I'll be needing to take the door off now after all... I got all 12 wires redone but when attempting to put the plug back into the socket there is something stopping it from fitting in properly now. I've taken that plug out 6+ times and never had trouble getting it back in but spent almost an hour trying but no luck. Using a mirror to look into the socket I cannot see any obstruction so I'm perplexed at why it won't go back in. The orange snap connector will grip in and the plug will go in at the top but something in the bottom is stopping it. I'm going to have to take the door off to get a proper look into the socket as I'm at the stage of potentially breaking something I was pushing that hard. I can only find posts on how to remove the panel, but nothing on how to remove the door. Based on the attached images does it look like the car has the same type of nuts to undo to lift the door off it's hinges? Is it the torx type nut the white arrow is pointing to the ones that need to be removed? There's nothing holding them from the inside that would fall into the door if I loosen them?

Ah, sorry I thought I had that in that signature thing - it's a 2009, so that diagram will work! I hadn't looked close enough but obviously one has a brown stripe and the other has a black one, so I'll take a closer look! Cheers.

Found those ones on amazon UK. In terms of removing the door, the wires are broken very close to the door itself, so I don't think I'd get any purchase on the wires if I took the door off. Plus I can't get the soft plastic sheath that surrounds the wiring in the hinges off on the door side - it seems to be in the door pretty bleedin tightly. Good idea though! From eyeballing it, I don't think I can get the plug in the first image through the door because of the initial sheath and the hole in the door side panel looks too small to pull it through. I cannot locate any of those tools to release the wires - I found posts online about filing down paper clips to use and I made a couple of them with paper clips but the wires won't release. Looks like I'll be cutting all of the wires to do a repair / preventative job on all of them. There are two wires that I think are the CAN wires (they are both orangish/brownish) and were twisted together - both of these are broken so I can't tell which one goes to which terminal - would anyone know if I end up reconnecting the wrong ones will that cause problems?

Need to do a temporary fix on my drivers door wiring loom. A new loom is needed but I haven't got the time to get the loom posted to me and installed between now and my NCT/MOT. Am I right in thinking that the tools in the first attached image would allow me to neatly remove the wires from the solid plastic 'plug' (white arrow pointing to it) in a way that I could then 're-plug' the wires back into place once I've repaired the wires? Am I right in thinking that once I unplug all of the wires from that plastic 'plug', that I can then pull all of the wires through the hole in the door (white arrow in the second image) so that I can do the temporary repair on them before feeding them all back through to re-connect/replug them in?

So a brief call today indicates they don't have VCDS and are linking with a person that has "VW specific diagnostic software", which I'm guessing might be VCDS. If all they have is a Snap On, is that able to carry out the same coding / functionality as the VCDS? Would they have been able to follow the recommended steps from Ross-Tech on what to after after installing a new/refurbished ABS module using Snap On?

Cheers langers2k, the basic setting headings in that link showing the steps to follow for the MK60EC1 coding literally mirror the error codes I'm getting... Car fault code: 00778 – Steering angle sensor, no or wrong adaptation Ross-Tech coding: Sensor for Steering Angle (G85) Car fault code: 01423 – Lateral accelerator sensor Ross-Tech coding: Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) Car fault code: 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor (ABS) Ross-Tech coding: Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) Car fault code: 01279 – Longitudinal accelerator sensor, no or wrong adaptation Ross-Tech coding: Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251) If the original ABS warning code is gone (01316), would that suggest perhaps the indy isn't aware of how to recode the new (refurbished) ABS unit given the four codes perfectly match the ross-tech coding procedure? From a quick Google, the scanning unit they had looked like one of those snap-on ones (link to scanner that looked like the one they were using) - probably impossible to know without knowing what exact scanner they're using but would that type of scanner typically not be able to do the required coding? If the original ABS warning code was still showing after the refurbished unit was installed, would that suggest the fault is with the new/refurbished unit?

This relates to a 2009 Skoda Superb 1.9 TDI BXE but I'm posting here as it's code related and from my Googling it isn't a Superb specific issue as it seems quite common across the VAG group. Got ABS warning lights on dash. Scan indicated the below two codes: 01316 - ABS Control Module (Parking/Steering Assist) 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor (ABS) Got a refurbished ABS Control Control Unit / Module and mechanic fitted it. However, after fitting it the below codes are now shown (new codes in bold): 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor (ABS) - so this code hasn't gone away 01279 – Longitudinal accelerator sensor, no or wrong adaptation 00778 – Steering angle sensor, no or wrong adaptation 01423 – Lateral accelerator sensor They said when installing the refurbished ABS unit that the part number was exactly the same as those on unit that came off my car so it has to be the right part. They said it required a code after installing it and the code from the old unit was entered and accepted. I can't remember if they said the 01316 fault cleared or not but they were wondering if the refurbished unit is faulty. Overall, they said they're a bit flummoxed by the above codes and can't figure out if the issue is with the refurbished unit being faulty or whether there is some calibration/coding issue they need to do but they don't seem to know what to do. In total they've put 4 hours into this and naturally I've paid for those four hours of labour so far - I've no issue with that obviously as they're not a charity but naturally don't want to keep throwing money at it. It's with an indy and they're following up with a link they have in VW about it. In the meantime, from searching, the ABS issue seems extremely common, however I've only so far come across one experience identical to mine here on Briskoda (link here). From that post there seems to be two routes to follow: VCDS Basic Settings: In that post the issue was resolved by the garage reprogramming / performing the basic setting procedure with VCDS. I'm pretty sure they would have tried this as they did mention entering a code that was accepted by the car/ecu/whatever it is that 'accepts' codes. Battery Related: Someone in that post asked about whether the battery had been disconnected at some stage, and I had disconnected the battery just before I brought it to the indy because I was repairing the boot wiring loom which had recently broken. Would disconnecting the battery have caused these faults? The person in that post hadn't done anything with their battery so there was no detail on the link between the battery being disconnected and these faults. Presuming they did the proper reprogramming, how might me disconnecting the battery have caused these faults? Is there something I can do to try to reset them? EDIT: As an aside, I have seen it mentioned that VW and Skoda UK have repaired the ABS issue free of charge regardless of service history (as per comments in this post in 2014). I'm in Ireland but I hope this isn't still potentially a free of charge fix from Skoda that I've just thrown the best part of €400 at in total so far...

Got it off easy enough once I got a tool into the trim, thanks again!

Sorry to raise an old thread, but I'm 99% sure this is what's happening to my car as it's the exact same issue but I was confused by the fact that the rear passenger door would also not lock. By replacing the loom in the drivers door, did this fix the issue in the rear passenger door too? As in, you didn't need to replace the rear passenger door loom also? I'm not sure why the fault in the driver door wires would cause the rear door to not lock.

Sound, thanks for the link! Was it just clips at the red arrows keeping that piece in place? Was there anything securing it at the hole where the green arrow is? So I need to get something in behind that trim piece to pry it forward?

I'm 99% sure I have the boot wiring loom issue as I'm getting warning lights about the reverse lights not working even though they both work when switched around (I've had the driver door loom go so am guessing it's the loom in the boot). I'm getting stumped with one piece of the trim that I can't seem to figure out how to pop it off and don't want to wreck any plastic clasps by just tugging away. It's the piece highlight in red in the attached image. How do you get this piece off? I've tried pulling it downward and upward and outward, and I'm not getting any movement. I can't get the side piece off to get access to the loom without getting this piece off first. From pulling up the cloth cover piece above the trim piece I can see all of that trim piece so I don't think I need to remove that cloth type cover to get the trim piece off, or do I?