slow_nick

Yes I cut holes in the rubber seals not the door 😂

I am confused

Why would I get rust issues..?

I believe the Octavia door seals are notoriously bad. Have you checked to see whether the drain holes are blocked? I cut extra holes in mine when I bought it after seeing numerous threads on here about it, I've never had the ingress problem and I hope with the extra holes I never will

It can recode all of the vehicle electronic control units. As said, you need to change the vehicle region to Australia, then in the maxidot menu you can disable "alt speed display" and enable "digital speed" which will give you a large digital MPH on the maxidot.

That doesn't sound right. The projectors do have a good amount of upwards movement available as the levelling can compensate for a heavy load in the front of the car, and also the lights do angle slightly upwards when "motorway light" mode is active. But they should not be aiming upwards during normal driving. Does it still do the self test when you start the engine? Do the lights return to the centre position afterwards or do they go up high? When you perform the basic setting it should move the projectors to their absolute centre position, and it uses the current reading from the level sensors as its "absolutely level" point. If your headlights were well aligned before you changed the coding, you should not need to adjust them again. Also note that the manual adjustment screws on the actual headlights do not move the projectors with the same mechanism that the automatic levelling does. If the projectors are pointing upwards during normal driving then you have a serious problem. Or maybe you did the basic setting while there was a big load in the boot, and now when you drive without that load in the boot the auto levelling is aiming the headlights higher to compensate for what it thinks is the car running with the nose pitched down? Could you post a photo of one of the projectors so we can see?

I am by no means an expert on any of this so I cannot be 100% confident in my answers but I assume the following: 1. Yes it is the same AFS II system as the mk2 Superb, but without bi-xenon. Both of the projectors will constantly adjust as you are driving (left and right with the steering, up and down as the level of the vehicle is changing during acceleration and braking, and overall position depending on which lighting mode is active). 2. Yes the bend lighting still functions during the different AFS II lighting modes. The most obvious working is the "city light" mode which you can see when driving at low speeds (<45kmh), where the offside beam is angled out very wide. When you come to a halt you can see that beam move back to the centre. And you can also see it move back to the centre as you go past 45kmh and it goes into "country light" mode. 3. As far as I am aware 1507610 is the standard coding for RHD xenons with AFS only. I don't know if it is the same coding for LHD but I do not believe it gives AFS II functions. The 1311190 coding is for RHD xenons with AFS II. Again I do not know if it is the same coding for LHD. 4. The car should be unloaded except for its usual running gear (spare wheel etc) and a full tank of fuel. The Octavia has a front level sensor too and can actually angle the xenons upwards from their centre position to compensate for the nose pitching down slightly. If your headlights have already been aligned properly (with a beam setter) there is no worry about simply clicking through the basic setting while the car is on level ground. The basic setting just tells the car that the current position is what it should consider absolutely level. 5. Yes you can swap between the 1507610 and 1311190 coding no problem, I changed mine a few times while I was trying to get it to work (I had a separate issue which I fixed). You need to do the basic setting again each time you change the coding. 6. I do not believe disabling bend lighting will disable the different AFS II lighting modes, if you don't want the AFS II modes then just stick with the standard coding. I quite like it though, and it's cool to see the lights constantly moving around. While this is true of the Superb I do not believe it is the case with the Octavia. I think it was possible to have xenons/AFS on the mk2 Octavia without having auto lights.

I was not aware of the different software versions on the AFS master until after I had bought mine. There was a belief that AFS II would not work on modules with software earlier than 0148 but mine accepted the coding and it appears to be working. The most obvious sign of the light pattern changing is when accelerating past 28mph (45kmh), the offside light beam moves back into the centre. This is clearly the transition between "city light" and "country light". You can try the AFS II coding on yours, it will either accept it or not. The basic setting is easy if your headlights are already aligned, just make sure you park the car on level ground without any extra weight in it then start the basic setting and click through it. This just tells the car that whatever the level sensors are reading at that moment should be considered completely level. Almost impossible to buy RHD xenons brand new except from Skoda themselves, and the LHD lights do have a different beam pattern so cannot be used.

Both second hand from eBay, separate listings about 6 weeks apart. The mk2 fl xenon headlights are stupidly rare - only the L&K had them as standard, and it was a £650 optional extra on most other spec which not a lot of people apparently went for. I had a saved search set up in eBay since last year and until about May 2020, I had only seen a single one get listed in the previous 6 months and it sold before I was serious about doing this project. I was happy to pay up to £200 per light providing they were in very good condition and had all of the bulbs and control gear present. There was no way I was going to faff around buying the xenon ballast and AFS module etc separately, and a pair of decent D1S bulbs is £120! I was very lucky that I managed to get two in excellent condition and for a decent price (£190 and £170). I also got the AFS master from eBay for £17 as it was listed by a breaker as "other control unit" since they didn't seem to know what it was. The headlights brand new from Skoda are over £500 each and I think the AFS master is around £140.

Step 4 - VCDS coding: Enter control module CAN Gateway, click Installation List and check the box for 55 Headlight Range. This will tell the car you have level sensors and a range control module installed. Enter control module Cent. Electrics, go to byte 14 and check bit 4 "Bi-xenon headlights (without shutter) installed". If you don't see this checkbox in your VCDS (it wasn't there for me), do it manually in the binary coding by changing the fifth digit from the right from a 0 to a 1 Enter control module Headlight Range, click on Coding, enter 1507610 and click Go. This should automatically re-code the AFS slaves too. Go to Basic Setting, select Group 01 and click Go. Align the headlights using the manual adjustment screws on top of each headlamp unit. Check for any stored fault codes (there shouldn't be any) and clear if so. Once there are no fault codes left, exit VCDS and cycle the ignition. You are now ready to test if everything works. Step 5 - testing: Every time you start the engine, the headlight motors will perform a self-test routine where the vertical motors will go to their lowest level, the horizontal motors will go to their farthest outwards and back in, and then the vertical motors will return to the correct height. You should also have some new options in maxidot: Under "Assistants" there will be an option to turn Bend Lighting on and off Under "Setup" and then "Lights & Vision" there will be an option to turn Travel Mode on and off. Go for a drive! Once moving, you should notice the headlights will move laterally with the steering. Step 6 - bonus round if you have auto wipers! Try changing the Headlight Range coding to 1311190 - this should unlock AFS II functionality, which the mk2 Octavia was never sold with in the UK. You will need to perform the Basic Setting again after changing the coding! With AFS II, you should also notice that at speeds under ~30mph, the offside headlight will be quite low and pointing quite far outwards. Once you go over ~30mph, you will see it move back towards the centre and slightly upwards. This is the AFS II transitioning from "city light" to "country light". The beam shape will also change slightly at higher speeds (such as on the motorway) where the level of both lights will adjust slightly upwards to extend the range of the lights. There is also a different beam shape that will activate when the rain sensor detects rain. Congratulations - you now have completely safe and legal retrofitted xenon headlights which will pass MOT! Ps. massive thanks to @langers2k for the immense amount of help he gave me at almost every step of the way, including doing the adaptations to my wiring loom as I am colourblind and had trouble with it! I'm certain I would not have been successful with this conversion without all of his advice

The CANBUS wires from the headlights and all of the wires from the level sensors eventually terminates in the large white plug which goes into the AFS master, which lives in the back of that hole. There is also a CANBUS pair which goes from the AFS master to the CAN gateway. The AFS master and both AFS slaves need power - I ran wire from one of the unused permanent live positions in the fuse box with a 10A fuse to power all three AFS modules. The CAN gateway is under the steering wheel, at the back of a hole above the BCM. A bit of a pain to get out. The CAN pair from the AFS master should be connected to pins 6 and 16 on the CAN gateway plug, make sure to match the wire colours so you get CAN L and CAN H the right way around. Step 3 - install the headlights: If you have auto lights, make sure you turn the switch to the OFF position. Remove the old headlights by undoing the plastic nut on the back, then releasing the entire lamp unit by pulling on the catch on the side and slide the whole lamp out and disconnect the plug. Plug in the adaptor loom and connect to the xenon lamp units and install them. Don't forget to put the plastic nut back on. Do not turn the lights on yet. You can now replace your dashboard dimmer switch with the one without range adjustment:

This retrofit is not substantially difficult depending on the vehicle you do it on. You should have good amount of technical ability (be able to understand wiring diagrams and work with 12V electrical systems) and a small amount of mechanical knowledge. I consider myself a fairly competent technician and I still got a lot of help doing this. Any part numbers I quote are for a UK spec Octavia in RHD, but should be identical for LHD (other than the headlights which are obviously different). Prerequisites that I know of: A BCM and CAN gateway which support xenon headlights. I cannot give a definitive list of part numbers which are compatible, but I know that BCM 1K0937087J and CAN gateway 1K0907951 are compatible. Headlight washer jets - fitting this is a major job in itself and is outside the scope of this guide. UK MOT rules require all cars first used after 1 September 2009 with high intensity discharge headlights (any dipped beam light source with an output greater than 2000 lumen) to be fitted with a headlight cleaning system. See https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-6 My car is an Elegance spec so had headlight washer jets fitted as standard, I believe the Scout is the same. This saved me a lot of work. Quite a lot of time and money. The conversion cost me about £500 in total, but this heavily depends on how much you end up paying for the headlights, which are by far the most expensive parts of this conversion. Parts required: Nearside xenon headlight 1Z2941015G Offside xenon headlight 1Z2941016G If your headlights do not come with the ballast/driver and AFS slave module, the part numbers are 1Z0941641B and 7L6941329B respectively. AFS master (range control module) 5M0907357C with software SW 0142 or later Front suspension level sensor 1K0941274C Rear suspension level sensor 1K0941273N Fasteners for level sensors: Front 1x M6x16mm bolt N10653201 with washer N0115477 1x M6 nyloc nut N10205802 Rear 5x M5x16mm bolts hex head N10430104 2x M5x3.8-6.5mm XL rivnuts N10601701 3x M5x0.5-3mm rivnuts N10597701 Dashboard dimmer switch without manual headlight range adjustment 1Z0941333A Wiring loom - I used this one from Aliexpress which was designed for a mk6 Golf and required some adaptation as the pinout is not exactly the same as the Octavia. I also had the seller include an extra level sensor cable, as the Octavia uses two level sensors as opposed to the single one in the Golf. Step 1 - install level sensors. The front sensor is very easy to install. Take off the front left wheel and have a look at the subframe immediately behind the CV gaiter. There are two holes; the left one is a simple hole which is where the guide pin on the level sensor bracket goes, and the right hole is threaded, so put your M6x16mm bolt with washer in here. The bottom part of the sensor goes into more existing holes on the lower suspension arm, near the anti-roll bar. Make sure the arm on the level sensor is pointing outwards. The rear sensor is a little more tricky as you have to get fully under the car. You also need to set 5 rivnuts in the left suspension - 2 in the upper arm, and 3 in the lower. The holes already exist, there should be 3 in a triangle at the bottom and 3 in a line at the top. You only need to set rivnuts in the outer 2 holes at the top. Unfortunately I forgot to take decent photos of mine, but you should get the idea. Mount the sensor using your M5x16mm bolts, once again making sure the sensor arm points outwards (it will not work if it's pointing inwards!) Step 2 - install wiring. This is probably the most time consuming part of the conversion. I tried to make mine as neat and OEM looking as possible. You will ultimately end up with wiring running between the following locations: nearside headlight and centre of dashboard (behind climate control panel) offside headlight and centre of dashboard front level sensor and centre of dashboard rear level sensor and centre of dashboard centre of dashboard and CAN gateway (buried at the back behind the steering wheel) centre of dashboard and cabin fuse box (or other suitable power source) The looms for the headlights themselves have a short section which converts from the 10 pin halogen headlight connector to the 14 pin xenon connector, and also a CANBUS twisted pair and power wire for the AFS slave which needs to go into the cabin. I used some flexible conduit cable tied neatly from both headlights to near where the grommet in the bulkhead behind the battery is located as this is where I'd be passing the wiring into the car. I got the wiring for the front level sensor into the engine bay through the hole that the brake pipe goes through. The rear level sensor wiring enters the car through the same rubber grommet the ABS cable goes through, and runs down the passenger side of the car up to the front. Once all the wiring is in the front, you need to get it into behind the climate control panel. This is pretty easy as you can just push it through the gap between the carpet and the plastic surround of the centre panel.

That is not the DPF warning light and the engine would not go into limp mode if it simply needed a regen (which is unlikely if you were towing at 50mph as the engine would be lovely and hot). Are you able to do a VCDS scan, there is probably a fault code stored. In the first month I had my car it went into limp mode 3 times randomly, each time it would clear when I cycled the ignition, I bought a code scanner and there was something about EGR fault which I cleared, and the car has driven perfectly ever since.

The OEM stereo can show the status of the doors/boot/bonnet but if you have maxidot you can see all this on the dashboard anyway. You can still lock the doors fine, replacing the stereo will not affect the function of anything in the car you will just lose some INFORMATION DISPLAY that the standard stereo can show but your aftermarket one cannot.

You won't see the climate control or parking sensor display on the screen like the OEM stereo shows

No not a problem, there will be a fault code stored in the CAN gateway as it won't be able to communicate with the stereo, but it won't bring up any dashboard warnings or affect anything else

Sorry I didn't realise you were using a wiring harness adapter. My Android stereo accepts the quadlock connector directly. Does your new stereo have a CANBUS decoder? If no, you will need to wire an ignition switched live to it so it knows when to turn on and off. The OEM stereo uses CANBUS commands to turn on and off.

What do you mean they don't go anywhere? They terminate in the quadlock connector with the rest of the wiring don't they? At least they do on mine (which I checked yesterday), I also have replaced my Bolero stereo with an Android one which uses CANBUS and it works

This thread is 4 months in the making (because I am exceptionally lazy) but the project is finally complete. Long story short I have a 2010 Octavia Elegance and I wanted to upgrade the standard Bolero headunit to something with bluetooth and DAB. I also wanted to have navigation if possible but this wasn't an absolute requirement. I also wanted to keep the CANBUS functionality of the OEM headunit, mainly the HVAC and parking sensor display. After discovering with absolute disbelief the insane prices that Columbus/Amundsen+ headunits go for and considering they are quite dated now, I settled on a cheap Android headunit from eBay. This is the one I purchased: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253355453163 For some reason the seller has massive inflated the price of it - it was £199.99 and I submitted an offer for £180 in December 2019 which was accepted. It arrived after about a week (apparently from the UK): I pretty quickly got around to fitting it once there was a decent gap in the terrible weather we had over December and early January. One thing I'm glad about with the Octavia is that the headunit is held in with torx bolts, and you don't have to mess around with stupid release keys to get it out. You just need a long enough T20 torx driver which I thankfully had. The plastic trim just pops off with a flat screwdriver. Out of the box the headunit has FM radio, bluetooth, CD/DVD player, WiFi, CANBUS decoder, two microSD card slots, and an absolute multitude of inputs on the rear: As you can see it has the quadlock connector and a double Fakra connector so it truly is plug and play. There is an input on the rear for an external microphone (which is included) but there's also a mic built in to the headunit which I've found out works sufficiently well so I didn't bother with the external mic. I also didn't fit the included GPS antenna which I'll explain further down. The manufacturer makes a load of extras you can add on to this such as tyre pressure monitoring (you have to screw sensor caps onto the valves, which gives you active TPMS), front and rear camera inputs (front can be recorded like a dash cam, rear is just for reversing I think and comes up automatically when you select reverse), DAB/DAB+ radio, even a 3G/4G dongle so you can keep the headunit connected to the internet at all times. After a couple of weeks of tweaking settings and volume levels etc I was at a point where I was pretty happy. The FM radio app works pretty well, and I also installed Plex from the Google Play store as I run a Plex media server at home which contains a lot of my music. I can tether the headunit to my phone to stream music when I'm out and about, or I can sync music for offline listening while my car is on the driveway and in range of my home WiFi. All in all I was happy. I purchased the DAB module (about £30 I think) which arrived fairly quickly. It connects to the headunit via one of the rear USB ports, so I've just stuffed it down the back of the console. I didn't want to use the supplied GPS antenna (the little black box you're supposed to stick on your dashboard somewhere), or the supplied DAB antenna (one of those stupid stick-on things that goes in the top corner of the windscreen). I did want GPS and DAB but without the ugly antennas and after a lot of research I settled on the best (but probably most expensive) option as suggested by @langers2k which was to change the standard roof aerial for one which has GPS and DAB built in. Thankfully VAG make a shark fin aerial with GPS and DAB as they obviously sell cars which can come with those things from the factory. There just so happened to be a brand new one of these on eBay for £70 buy it now that someone had bought for a VW Polo and never ended up fitting so I bought it. As you can see there are 4 connectors coming from the aerial, these are FM/DAB (white), DAB (black), GPS (blue), and GSM (violet). The GSM antenna is used in cars with factory telephone preparation, as some headunits have rSAP so when a compatible phone is connected by bluetooth, the stereo can make calls through the SIM card using an external aerial for better reception. The standard aerial on cars without GPS/DAB/etc only have a single connector - the white FM/DAB one. Replacing the aerial is very easy, you just pull a plastic trim in the boot off by hand and then you can pull down the headliner. The aerial is held in with one massive nut (I think it's 19mm) that you can't really see but it's very easy to feel. Obviously my car didn't have the wiring in place for the extra antennas so I had to order a few cables and adapters from chinarf on eBay in order to connect everything. I needed two 5m extension cables (one for DAB and one for GPS) and then a short patch cable for each to convert from Fakra to the appropriate connector. Putting these cables in was very easy, I used some semi-flexible cable fishing rods to push the cables through to the passenger A pillar where I pulled the trim off to receive the cables. It was pretty easy although annoyingly I snapped one of the cables after it got snagged on something and I yanked it, so I had to order another one from chinarf and wait another 3 weeks. I ran the cables down the passenger A pillar and behind the dashboard into where the headunit is. This is quite tricky unless you have very small hands! Connected everything up and it all worked wonderfully I am very impressed with the DAB radio, it actually sounds better than FM from this stereo. The reception from the OEM shark fin aerial is excellent. The navigation is flawless and works nicely in Google Maps. I haven't tried any other navigation apps yet. Only thing left to do is add a reversing camera. The headunit has a composite video input on the back so any basic camera should work. My intention was to get one that's built into the boot button like this: End.

In the manual for my FL Elegance it says you can enable and disable the daytime running lights by doing some funky movement with the indicator stalk. To enable: within 3 seconds of turning on ignition, pull the high beam on and hold the stalk up (right indicator) for 3 seconds To disable: same as above except hold stalk down (left indicator) instead I did the enable earlier and it gives the confirmation chime after doing it successfully but the DRL bulbs in the fog lights do not come on. In fact nothing comes on. If I try to do the enable trick again, it doesn't give the chime, but if I do the disable trick it gives me the chime, then I do the enable again and get the chime so something's definitely working somewhere. I looked through the settings in the maxidot with it enabled and disabled and there's nothing in there about daytime running lights. It is worth mentioning that my car does not have auto lights as standard but I have fitted the auto switch, although it hasn't been coded yet so the lights just stay on all the time when the switch is in the auto position, although I don't think this should affect the DRLs (yes I did test with the light switch in off position...) Would be great if anyone can shed any light on this