TorH

Yes, thank you. Actually have low input from alternator, so I am gonna have a go at cleaning the connections there and checking the entire cable. Perhaps also might be getting old, but won't change it until absolutley nescessary.

I did it! The car is working better than ever before! All fault codes are gone! ...or at least almost, just the heater element for the auxiliary heating that is defective now! I did as you said pkipilot and unplugged the battery and checked the connection for the ECM module. Nothing was wrong, just plugged it back in and it worked... Thank you guys for all the amazing help and have a good day! :D

Okay, so I have an update. Managed to fix the cables and the fan is now working again! However, now the canbus is not working and I cannot run a check, which means that either I messed up with one of the cables or removing and inserting the cable to the ecm module is not a very smart thing to do... Do you know which cable the canbus is connected to (100, 200, 80 or 50), or if it is because I unplugged and plugged in the ecm module cable meaning I have to do some extra steps`? Thanks for the great help! Tor H

Oh, I did not realize that, thanks for pointing that out. 6£ or even 10£ a year is not that bad, might actually opt in.

By this i am assuming you mean all the pins sticking out from "under" the fuses on the fuse box in figure 1. These pins looked almost as good as new with no corrosion. Thank you both for Great tips, I will try a repair and give feedback on whether it worked or not. Saw a youtube video of someone testing the motor on the air flaps. Seems to be No problem as long as the position is noted down before messing with it. The motor itself is just plus and minus, opposite poles for reversing. The potentiometer outputs ohms in two places and noting those down and aligning after should lead to "No changes". How easy probably a question though. However using less volt makes it go slower. Not sure if the car itself has a "resetting" system that can "fix" misalignment. But i will only open these air flaps to check for wear and tear on the components. If only the gears are broken i can 3D print a new one. Also a lot cheaper to buy components rather than the entire air flap.

Really annoying I cannot edit posts after a certain amount of time, but I also wanted to ask if testing air flow flaps outside of the car will be a problem because it messes with the positioning or if it does not matter and is fine to provide it with energy to see if it functions properly?

Okay so I dug into the fusebox under the hood and saw a some I would like to ask if is "enough corrosion" and I also saw a cable going from the fusebox to the car which might be the answer to my problem. Would you say the corrosion on the connections in figure 1 are enough to be a problem and should be changed/polished? Figure 1 - Fusebox connections Figure 2 shows the location of the potential "master" issue and Figure 3 is zoom in of the issue. Do you agree this might be the problem and should be cut and resoldered with shrinks? Figure 2 - Overview of cables going from fusebox Figure 3 - Zoom in

And yes you are correct with Scandinavia, Norway.

My car model is Skoda Octavia mk 2 2005 1.9 tdi. Can never really figure out if it is combi, legacy or what type it is. It is the one with "big" luggage space. Apologies, i seem to have forgotten to add my car model. I made it a bit late last night. Thank you for your tips and expertise.

Hi guys, The cold messed my boy up bad this time. The fan inside stopped working and without it it is quite impossible to drive in the cold as mist builds up and freezes. I can hear some tiny creaking (are there 2 fans or is this a flap?) from the inside of the dash for a second but stops and no air is being circulated. Also the recirculation button does not work, all others work. I got some missing messages from the A/C controller, Cylinder 4 Glow plug fault in circuit, Aux. heating no signal, Heater element for aux. heating - defect. fresh air blower defect, Terminal 30 open circuit, Function limitation due to under voltage, Terminal 58d - open short to plus, Horn - open short to ground, Generator terminal DF load signal - implausible, control module for climatronic - no signal, control module for climatronic and aux. air heater - no signal, Door eletrical curcuit also faulty, Àll Electric window motors - no or incorrect basic settings (what), Also my speaker driver side fell down and stopper working, could this maybe short something... So suddenly a bunch of problems arose aligned with the lack of air being circulated. I tested the Air blower by giving direct power and it was functioning perfectly. When trying to provide power through the control module nothing happened. So this one is might be broken, however the method I used was a bit wack and might just be me not hitting it hard enough with the cables or just doing it wrong. I tried with 12V and 9V batteries. I checked fuses, all good. I opened the entire casing under the dash on both sides to inspect if anything were broken or missing. Everything looks fine inside. I would assume problems occur outside under the hood because of corrosion, but it is rather difficult to "see" what is bad and what is not. I also opened the climatronic to see if there were some bad connections on the board, but it almost looked brand new! I also tested the cable leading to the fan and got good ground and power connection, however the connection with regulated voltage according to climate control did not produce any voltage, leading me to think maybe 'I should wait with buying a new control module for the fan until I figure this out. I scanned the vehicle after I took out the climatronic (ofc. put it in again before scanning), but maybe the codes would need to be cleared... just realized this, well. The open circuit in terminal 30 have been around for quite some time and I find it hard to find information on where this terminal is located. Glow plug fault circuit is new. not sure where to find this. What I really want with this post is just to ask if someone sees an obvious connection between all these faults or have some experience that could guide me in the right direction as to where I should be testing for the faults. Is it under the hood or under the dashboard. Relays seem fine, but I will test each and every one of them this weekend. This is a bit sad as I was looking forwards to a rather relaxing weekend. And of course my boy Koda chooses the coldest period to stop functioning. Literally 10 degrees (C) last week, he could have done it then! He really does not enjoy being cold 😞 Please help me save my boy, I ain't giving up on him, even if I have to thread every cable over again! Thank you for your time and effort, - Tor

Hi, I ran a vcds and got up a few issues. I have searched the internet and tried a lot of diagnostics but probably overlooked some, or done them wrong. So I am asking here directly, if there are already good topics on them please link to them I am a newbie and hope you understand the fault codes better than me, also tried to look them up on ross tech, but can't quite manage to wrap my head around what some of them mean. I have checked the fuses like a thousand times, both under the hood and the one in the car. Searched milennias for relay diagrams, but no luck. Sent a mail to skoda asking for one, will see where that goes. This is a car I will recycle or sell as parts when i am done with it, fixing it is a hobby Skoda octavia 2005 mk2 combi 1.9 tdi. - Battery changed this spring (2021). - Bought new horn. - bought new ABS sensor, ring too if necessary. - Swapped the engine summer 2020 (blown head gasket). (old one: 308 000 km, new one: 133 000 km, car now: 319 000km) All help is appreciated <hr style="margin-left:0; height: 2px; border-style: none; background: black;"> [CODE] Abs sensor - I have already bought a new sensor, just haven't replaced it yet. Most likely that will fix it, no? - Should I put in a new ring aswell, or is it more work for no necessary reason? Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 Q HW: 1K0 907 379 Q Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102 Revision: 00T12001 Coding: 0021121 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 408F2A661342E942E0-8014 1 Fault Found: 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent <hr> Auto HVAC - there is no AC refrigerant in the system. Expensive to fill up, is it possible to do it yourself? - is that what is causing both issues? Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1K0-907-044.lbl Part No: 1Z0 907 044 J Component: ClimatronicPQ35 084 0305 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 3D71539264B084AA8B-8068 2 Faults Found: 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 000 - - - Intermittent 00229 - Refrigerant Pressure 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded <hr> central electrical system - Is terminal 30 what goes directly to the battery? - What relay goes to the horn? there is no clicking sound when i press the horn with ignition on :( - I have connected reverse camera to reverse lights. New joying radio connected to lights as well as an amplifier. (so it turns on with the car) better suggestions? - Fuse for interior light is good, and they work, so don't know why it's complaining? Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 937 049 N HW: 1K0 937 049 N* Component: Bordnetz-SG H34 0803 Revision: 00H34000 Serial number: 00000003149599 Coding: 498A8F030004140000110D000000000000087F075C Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 3A7B588E759EB392AE-806E Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z1 955 119 A Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB Component: Wischer SK351 012 0401 Coding: 00065525 Shop #: WSC 73430 Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB Component: RLS 020610 054 0403 Coding: 00209069 Shop #: WSC 73430 4 Faults Found: 00926 - Terminal 30 011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent 00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent 00059 - Terminal 30 for Interior Lighting 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 01759 - Relay for Horn 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit <hr> steering wheel - wiper switch - I think this one is the interval switch on top of the stick. don't notice any problems. - Any point in fixing? - My back wiper doesn't work, i think the motor needs to be replaced. Any suggestions as to how to shock it to see if it starts spinning? - Functions sometimes, very rare. - No sounds, when turning the back wiper on. clicking sound behind wheel tho. - 4 pins so not sure how to shock it, suggestions? Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY8.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 AF HW: 1K0 953 549 AF Component: Lenksäulenmodul 034 0070 Coding: 0000042 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 76E38CBE010617F28A-8022 1 Fault Found: 00888 - Wiper Switch for Intermittent Operation (E22) 014 - Defective - Intermittent <hr> CAN gateway - Not sure what this means. Radio is swapped so makes sense that it can't find it. - Is that a problem? - What does the first fault mean? Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 E HW: 1K0 907 951 Component: Gateway H11 0110 Revision: 11 Serial number: 29001054178A56 Coding: 3D3F4B40072302 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 295997C28038080AD7-807C 2 Faults Found: 01305 - Databus for Infotainment 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 254 Reset counter: 30 Mileage: 314793 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 19:36:25 01304 - Radio 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 254 Reset counter: 30 Mileage: 314793 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 19:36:29 <hr> Door electrical system - driver side - Swapped the old broken driver side side view mirror, maybe a different bulb code messing up? - Couldn't see any obvious breaks behind the door cover. - Suggestions? Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MIN2.lbl Part No: 1T0 959 701 B Component: Tuer-SG 024 2345 Coding: 0000246 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 36634CBE418657F24A-8062 1 Fault Found: 00131 - Outside Door Handle Illumination/mirror Light Driver Side 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit <hr> Steering assist - Dash light comes on when i take off the battery and stays for a month-ish. what is causing this? - Steering wheel becomes loose, doesn't return to original position on its own. any fixes? Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb Part No: 1K1 909 144 J Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.5 D04 1606 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 326B70AEADEE4BD266-8066 1 Fault Found: 00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 000 - - [/CODE] The entire scan is added as an attachment in case you want to take a look. the only fault I didn't add was the auxiliary heater where the heater element is defective. took the cable off when i swapped the engine 'cause I don't need it, so don't plan on replacing it, unless you guys want me to ofc! Log-TMBGS61ZX62123388-318840km-198117mi.txt

Haha, yeah. Just stumbled upon this one. Probably pretty similar issue, so if he found the answer it would probably be the same as mine.

I have the exact same problem on my Skoda octavia mk2 2005, like THE EXACT Same! Key goes about half way in, no way to turn the key, it would probably work if i could just get the key in there. Loosened the screws, lost the upper one inside ofc. Did you figure out the problem?

Observed the water visually and tasted it (cause I'm a badass), but looked and tatsed completely fine, no soapy or different taste than normal rain water. I am beginning to think Maybe i should install something to gather the water so i can save some money on the water bill 😃

Checked all the places you mentioned chimaera and everything is perfectly dry in my octavia 2 2005. Adding a photo for reference to where it exactly gathers the condens/ few water droplets. The other half of the tire is pretty dry, the half closest to the back seats has water droplets but the half closest to the back window is pretty dry.