AndyTheAndy

I got some dental floss and used it as a saw. Slip it behind the top of the badge and saw down. The floss will break so you have to use a few lengths of it. Once you get half way down the badge, slip something behind it (I used a plastic trim removal tool) and gently pry it away. You’ll have to clean some of the adhesive off after. It makes it easier if you can use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to soften the adhesive. I got mine from eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261589485248

As they say, different stroke for different folks! i also changed out the wheel centre caps, and I’m glad I did as the old ones were pitted and awful looking

You know what, I have actually looked at that post and completely missed the part numbers! Ended up scouring the web to find it. At least we know standard things don’t tend to change with time 😏

I can see what you mean, I was thinking the same when I replaced the grille surround. Still a damn sight better than the original in my opinion!

Just a PSA for anyone wondering. I can only speak for the FL octy 2, but the following item code fits perfectly in place of the old boot emblem, including the body contours; 5J0 853 621 A AUL.

Do you get many coming to these? Looking to come next month

Ah might just go with a high flow panel filter then. The heat soak issue bothers me a bit too

How much noisier is that induction kit? Looking to get one for my VRs.

I mean, they don’t say they’re required to use the kit. Lithium ion batteries are always required 😋

Once you’ve buffed them, get something like this to restore the coating on them. If you don’t, there’s a good chance they’ll mist over again, especially if they get exposed to salt on the roads

Quick guide as to how I got my exhaust tips from slightly brown to nice and shiny. - First, I started off with some tar remover. I used TurtleWax bug and tar remover. This helps remove most of the loose surface crud including, you guessed it, tar. - Second, I used some 00 grade steel wool. It would’ve been a lot easier to do with coarser wool, but I didn’t want to put too deep of a swirl in the metal. For the tougher bits, I wrapped the end of a large flat blade screwdriver with the wool and used it to put some force into it. You’ve got to be careful to keep an eye on the wool wearing though and getting contact between the blade and the exhaust. - Next, I used 0000 grade ultra fine steel wool to buff out the heavier marks from the 00 wool. - Lastly, I used some metal polish (any brand should work). I applied it with a standard cotton dishcloth (clean, of course) and worked it in for a few minutes. I let it dry to a haze and then buffed with a micro fibre cloth. Before (forgot to take a picture so one is halfway done) After. Note the pitting still left on the side. Not much I can do about that without some serious tools and effort.

Excellent, if it’s still available on payday I’ll be hitting you up for it if that’s alright! Do you have any ideas on the right part number for a compatible Bluetooth module? There seems to be loads of different ones out there.

Doesn't have parking sensors either :( Would your Columbus accept a rear view camera and a Bluetooth module?

Hi all, I'm looking to upgrade my Bolero to a Columbus or Amundsen unit. My Octy doesn't have MFSW or a Bluetooth module but does have a MaxiDot display Could anyone tell me what I'd need to get along with the unit with P/Ns if possible? Thanks in advance

Well if the Chinese can use standard connectors, hopefully Alpine will! Then again, you never know with car audio! Thanks for the reply mate 😁