croquemonsieur

Travelling along the M4 on Tuesday, it was sleety snow much of the way and after a while the Adaptive Cruise Control stopped working, with a message showing something like 'ACC sensor fault'. My right foot had to take over (+ left foot occasionally). Sometime later, still snowing, ACC came back for a short while, but then packed up again. Finally, coming into Bristol along the M32, I decided on a pit stop at IKEA and half expecting it, noticed that the plastic 'box' in the radiator grill centre (that I believe houses the ACC radar) had a snow coating, so I scraped it off. Having filled up with meatballs jam & chips + a bit of retail therapy exiting the store while negotiating the IKEA shopping maze, I was able to briefly test the ACC before getting to Bristol city centre and thankfully it was now working again OK. I'd had a similar failure in very heavy rain along the M4 London bound a few weeks earlier - the weather was so bad there were 5 accidents in different places causing traffic jams en route - a dreadful journey that time. Don't know what some drivers get up to in bad weather. The ACC came back while still driving along, when the rain had eased a little. ACC had only failed once previously 2 years ago, again when it was tipping it down on the M4, but then only came back after stopping at the services. So not yet quite good enough for autonomous cars.

I found that once I start noticing road noise, many years ago, I began to listen out for it and so got increasingly sensitised to it. I still notice it in my 1.0 Karoq, generally the most prominent noise source in my car, but it is significantly reduced. Another factor I seem to find - the ears have a sort of volume control - with louder noises the ear turns the sound down a bit, but as things get quieter you still become aware of the various noises. It might seem you can never win, but a quieter car is definitely less tiring to travel in. I notice I'm less tired in the Karoq after a fairly long journey than for any of my previous cars.

The SEL presumably has the lift out seats with the roll top boot cover. This does not do as good an acoustic isolation job from rear noises as the lower market fixed seat SE version, which has a more solid shelf/boot separator. My 2019 1.0 3cyl DSG has a slight LF drone between 1500 & 2000 rpm when the engine is working hard going uphill. It isn't very prominent at all really, but I still change the DSG into Sport mode to raise the revs a bit. I'm fussy about noise like this, but road noise in particular. When I got the car I noticed that the car exhaust terminated under the boot, rather than sticking out slightly at the rear and as well as worrying about noise, I wondered if there might be a danger of fumes getting into the car - presumably totally unfounded as Skoda's development of the car would have no doubt checked for this. Anyhow, I bought a short boy racer SS exhaust extension and clamped that onto the rear exhaust, just to try it. Whether it actually reduced that slight boom I can't really confirm, as I undertook various other panel damping measures to reduce noise from the rear, road noise being my primary concern. The exhaust extension might be worth a try as it didn't cost much and doesn't seem to have affected emissions, as the car flies through MOTs. The 1.0 Karoq installation results in a particularly quiet engine, being inaudible on the move in many situations, particularly on motorways. My noise abatement mods + changing to 16" wheels with All Weather tyres (these seemingly inherently quieter) have made a substantial reduction in road noise levels and this is now the quietest car I've ever owned, past cars including a BMW E39 6cyl 523i with that super smooth engine.

I find parking and driving generally, easy. Maybe in my case, the seating raised by a special cushion helps, but there's something about the way the driving position and modest no fuss dashboard + short bonnet, make the car feel quite compact and to my mind easy to drive along on the road. Some cars go for big impressive dashboards and long bonnets making the road ahead seem a long way away (I've sat in in a couple of Quashquais where I would level this criticism, ditto my old Saab 9-5 - Range Rover Interiors look might impressive from outside, but I doubt the driving position & general layout would suit me. BMWs however generally seem to be quite well laid out to assist the driver negotiating the road). The extra side windows at the Karoq rear, compared with the say the Golf, help when parking. But also I wouldn't be without the rear camera which I had fitted by the dealer. My previous Yeti was even better, particularly when reversing due to the vertical rear door and generally square bodywork, but the very rounded front and rear Karoq corners do help in parking in tight spaces. I've driven a few Fabias, but not for long and generally felt the Karoq is easier to drive, but the Fabias have all been manuals (which aren't so good for parling compared with autos) and I much prefer my nice Karoq DSG + high seating position.

Yes, there is adjustable lumbar support on the basic manual seat. On journeys, I tend to alter the lumbar adjustment at intervals along with backrest tilt, just to change my seating posture a little. Let's face it, sitting down for long periods in a fixed position, whether in a car, at the office or at home, is bad for you. Accordingly, I rarely drive over 1.5hrs without getting out to stretch my legs. I think electric seats have greater adjustment range including maybe seat tilt. I find the manual seat comfortable though, if slightly firm and don't get too many aches & pains when driving distances. However I do need to add a seat cushion for my long legs, something that maybe the electric seat might better cater for.

Root, I did do that some years ago and it seemed to confirm the 4% optimistic assessment of the car's displayed figures.

It sometimes seems that traffic aids the mpg figure a little as long as there are no hold-ups. I usually find that after hitting the M25 mad house, coming off the relatively peaceful M4 on the return journey, the mpg starts to improve a little - I suppose it's more difficult to maintain the 70pmph limit continuously, but I put some of it down to slip streaming.

Yes, it's been reliable so far and I don't find the car underpowered, but I'm not a hairy driver - the just over 11secs to 60mph acceleration would have seemed fast 20-30yrs ago, for a much larger engined auto car, though people these days are rather more sniffy at such a figure. The DSG box greatly aids driving pleasure (but 1.0 DSGs were stopped in 2019). I do pull the shifter into S mode for overtaking, but that's because the car likes to stay in as higher gear as possible. On the other hand, at 70 on the motorway, quickly accelerating to 90 for a bit of fun is no problem while the gearbox stays in top, so there's a fair amount of torque. The engine is very smooth & quiet except for one or two particular situations. Newer 1.0s are likely a bit more economical. Mine is an early one with the GPF, which I think cost a bit in economy when introduced. The engine has been worked on twice since mine, presumably to improve emissions & economy and the latest one is back up to the 115bhp that mine pushes out.

The displayed mpg in my 2019 1.0 DSG SE Tech with ACC, is about 4% optimistic, as is the mph reading, but mileage seems to be spot on - others seem to agree with this, so I'd say your actual mpg would have been 60mpg, but that's still impressive. However, your car may not be fully run in yet. I refer you to a previous thread and my last message in it, dated 1st Aug 2024 Recently I got an actual 59mpg on a 150mile run on M25 & M4, my best ever, but I was trying to be economical too. -- I had set the Cruise to 65mph (actual 63 say) rather than my usual 73mph -- Car recently serviced + recent aircon recharge -- Warm outside with air temp just a little higher than the 20*C set on the aircon, so it didn't have to work hard, fan on position 1 (It was much warmer on the same day return, so aircon working harder with fan now on position 3 + more hold-ups & only got 55mpg while still travelling at that lower economy speed). On the other hand -- At the service, tyres had been put up tp 35psi rather than my preferred 32 & I reset these straight away. If I'd kept them at 35 I might just have got 60mpg on the journey out. -- Also there were still a few hold-ups on this outward journey on the M25, so that might have cost me 1 or 2mpg in addition. I note that previously, just after the aircon recharge, I got 55mpg, ACC set to 73mph - this in itself was 5mpg better than my norm before the aircon had been seen to. Finally, it does seem that that 1.5 can be just as economical as the 1.0 from what several say, due no doubt to the clever engineering in that more complicated larger engine.

I'm anticipating that modifying the throttle setting to be more gradual will just ease the jerky start syndrome rather than fully eliminating it. My worry is that the remapping to make it more gradual may upset how the engine / DSG work together - it probably involved much development work by Skods. I suppose if problems do occur, the factory settings can be restored via OBD or whatever system is used. One thing I do like about my current DSG in the Karoq (but seemingly only in the 1.0 DSG and maybe not larger engines according to earlier threads) is that on the overrun going downhill, it wants to stay in top as long as possible, even after applying the brakes - it suits my driving style. All my previous conventional Autos and the Yeti DSG wanted to change down into a lower gear ASAP and I always found that irritating. However, presumably these older Autos could have been designed to behave like my current Karoq if the designers had so wished, the behaviour likely nothing to do with it being a DSG.

My dry clutch DSGs creeps just like yours, no throttle needed, unless Autohold is switched on and active of course. When allowed to creep with Autohold turned off, take off from rest is indeed smoother, but careful control of the fierce throttle is still desirable. The Saab 9-5 auto just made a smooth fast take off from rest easier. I don't know if it's just that the Karoq throttle is too fierce at start off, or it is due to some inherent unfortunate characteristic of DSGs, as some people say. I've thought of having the throttle remapped to see if that would improve things. On the other hand, I must say that the DSG does allow impressive economy with at the same time very impressive quiet performance, in cars with small engines. I recall the buzzy, sluggish small auto cars I'd tried years ago. Also thought of having the pedals altered by a disabled driver car adaptation company, to allow for a decent foot rest on the extreme RHS. If I did all the alterations to the car I talk about, would it still be a Skoda?

That Touran sounds like a nice car. The one I sat in had 3 rows of seats and from memory I did find it a little short on legroom in the driver's seat. The salesman did tell me the one with 2 rows of seats wasn't any roomier in the front, but maybe he was wrong. There is just about enough legroom for me in the Karoq but the pedal layout could be better. The T-Rock does this well with room for a foot rest to the right of the throttle -handy if you have ACC. I find the seats in the basic SE Karoq comfortable, except as in many cars, the headrest is too far back and so I've tied a small cushion to it. My dry clutch Karoq does have creep, as did my previous Yeti. While my car was being repaired 2 yrs ago I was given a DSG Juke that didn't have that creep and sorely missed the facility when parking. I don't think the dry clutch in my Karoq overheats with the Electronic brake or Autohold facility - these are released as soon as the throttle is lightly touched, no old fashioned handbrake. I do wonder though if the DQ381is better at pulling away from standstill than the dry clutch version, which does need a sensitive foot on the throttle for a smooth take off. My auto Saab 9-5 of 10 years ago was really well set up for easy fast yet smooth pulling away from 0mph - say when turning right into a busy main road.

How do you find the ride in the Karoq ,compared with the Touran. When I got my previous Yeti nearly 10 yrs ago, I was looking around at various cars and noted that 'Which' highly rated the Touran ride I rejected a 1.2 Touran in the end, never drove it, but found the front legroom inadequate for me, as I find often is so in cars that can have 3 rows of seats, even if the 3rd row isn't fitted. A pity, as at the time, I thought it had quite a pleasant interior. I suspect the boxy shape also means it is overall roomier than the Karoq. Actually I don't actually trust 'Which' on car reviews as I find they are frequently inconsistent. Also interested in why you prefer the DQ381 to the dry clutch. I like my dry clutch DSG but can see that it's not perfect. On economy, that long distance figure is impressive for a 2.0, though on short trips my 1.0 DSG does noticeably better. Yesterday on a shopping trip there and back of 5miles total we did 34mpg, a hilly route if no traffic lights, but a lengthy stop at the shops including a lazy coffee, meaning the engine had time to cool down there.

No. I had mine fitted by the dealer when I bought the car, but I could have had it done much cheaper fiited afterwards. I recall there was someone on here saying he was doing it for around £300, but that was two or more years ago. I wouldn't be without it. I don't know if it's possible to retrofit a more modern one that alters the angle of view as you turn the steering wheel etc. Mine only looks straight behind but still very useful. Adding to logiclee's list, the Tech model also came with better looking wheels but I went and spoiled things by changing to steel16" ones last year. I don't know if the standard SE came with front parking (acoustic + diagrammatic warning) sensors, but my SE Tech did and an item I'd now regard as essential.

More an idealised plan of action rather than probably what will happen. At least I won't now have to do a wheel swap for 2 years. Following this service and recent Aircon regassing, I had to go to Bristol yesterday and return same day. Decided to try an economy run and set the ACC to 65mph (actual say 63mph) rather than my usual 73mph (bang on the speed limit). 80% into the journey I was getting the magic 60mpg but arriving at the destination after driving through the city centre this had gone down to 59mpg..... schucks! The display showed more naturally and I've deducted the 4% optimistic overread in my figures. I was there for maybe 1.5hrs so on the return Amundsen hadn't reset the MPG reading. The return journey not quite as good so when I got home the MPG for the whole day was 57mpg. Other things were in my favour, as there are quite a few slow 50mph stretches on the M25 / M4 and it was hot, which previous discussions here indicate is good for economy - av 27*C going out & 29*C on return. However some heavy traffic with stop start on the M25 and worse coming back will have dented the figures a little. Generally on previous trips I've been getting 48-50mpg, but with the amount of mileage I do these days driving 7mph slower isn't actually a huge cost saving, but I do find driving at that lower speed a bit more relaxing on a long journey, even if adding an extra 10-15mins to the trip each way. Aircon set at 20*C and fan position 3, it coped well throughout the day - it got upto 32*C outside at one point - there has been criticism of the A/C here in the past. Regarding ACC there were quite a few opportunities to test out my theory on its behaviour driving in heavy traffic on motorways. If doing above 50mph travelling in a slow lane, but adjacent lane 'overtaking' is actually travelling slower than me, ACC slows the car to the speed of that adjacent lane. However I had several instances yesterday when travelling below 50 but adjacent lane to right was even slower, ACC allowed me to continue undertaking faster without me needing to override it on the throttle. Pretty sure it did this every time below 50. Quite a good feature, but not seen it in the manual nor written anywhere.

Thanks Root & thamestrader for pointing that out. Back to tyre wear, last year 2023 the garage measured 7mm tread depth all round, maybe 2000 miles after fitting the Hankooks. 2024 This year it was 6.5mm fronts 6.0mm rears, but I'd just had the front / back wheel swap done along with the A/C recharging. I'm these days typically doing 6,000mls a year. So the fronts are maybe wearing at 1mm p.a. and rears 0.5mm p.a. 2026 I'll do my next wheel swap in 2yrs time when the fronts will, via a bit of simplistic maths, be 4.5mm and rears 5mm tead depth, if you follow my logic. 2027 So following that 2nd swap, the following year the front & rears will be 4mm, maybe when the wet snow performance is just beginning to deteriorate. Anyone still awake or still reading this!!!! 2028 After another year the tyres would be 5 and a bit year's old, having done say 32,000mls and with another year's usage 2029 I would still be comfortably legal by my calculation, but tyre performance would likely be rather poorer. I'll almost certainly have fitted new tyres by then, as I'll be itching to try the latest quiet tyres then available. Errr, I thought I'd check the tyres today and found tyre pressures were at 35psi (outside temp 22*C, car not having been moved for 20hrs). I normally run at 32psi, so the dealer must have pumped them up for the MOT. I reduced them to 32psi, but ride seems only marginally better if at all, but will reserve final judgement for a few days!

Thanks thamestrader for those comments. Gerrycan, no I changed the original Turanzas on 17" wheels to Hankook AW tyres on steel 16" wheels early last year. There was a significant reduction in road noise and improvement in ride, but maybe I was unrealistic in hoping it might result in XJ6 standards of comfort - not really quite expecting that of course. Reviews of the Hankooks at the time suggeted it was maybe the quietest best riding A/W tyre around then that was good all-round except for poor wear, but it seems Hankook do play around with tyre compositions quite alot without telling anyone and last year while still getting good reviews, it wasn't quite top of the heap for quietness/ride (I suspect they were trying to improve longevity), but neither was the CrossClimate 2. One aspect to maybe consider with AW tyres is the fact that most need to have a decent tread depth to maintain good wet and snow performance. Some say 4.5mm is the minimum acceptable for such tyres (mine are around 6.0-6.5mm at the moment), but I recall that Goodyear had managed to engineer in good wet/snow performance in their current A/W tyre when the tread wears significantly below that 4.5mm threshold I take on board what you are saying about MOT testers and weeping, but was just wondering whether to take the opportunity to see what improvement if any there was in going for upmarket or adjustable dampers. Again whilst writing, a curious report from my servicing was that the rear brakes were 75% worn, presumably meaning they'll likely need replacing for the next MOT. I haven't had any brake pads replaced, so surely the front pads should wear first.

Mine's the solid rear axle, not IRS. I'm not quite sure, did you replace the bushes at 108,000 miles or was that when you sold the car. There's no sign of uneven wear on my tyres so I assume the bushes and suspension alignment are OK. I did once have the alignment done on an ageing BMW 523 (E39 with multilink IRS) when replacing the tyres. The garage happened to have the equipment and were offering to do it at a reasonable price, so I let them go ahead. I don't think the alignment was out by much though. I've got to say, I've noticed some sort of ride nervousness in all my cars after moving on from an ancient Volvo 122S Amazon, maybe 50 years ago. That car had a very soft suspension with minimal road noise and of course a heavy solid axle providing the rear wheel drive and this nicely filtered out ridges and minor potholes. Wallowy on larger road irregularities though and cornering not up to modern standards, but very relaxing around town. The subsequent cars have included a Peugeot 504Ti (a bit crashy, but impressive, if noisy, on really rough roads with large potholes) 505, 405, BMW 523i (nice on smooth roads, iffy on broken surfaces and quite worrying on really bad roads), Saab 9-5 and a Yeti. All these I've found a bit unsettling on broken road surfaces to varying degrees. The Karoq is probably better than most of them were around town and certainly quieter re road noise, but still not quite as relaxing as I would like.

Useful couple of replies, thanks. Thamestrader, were you aware that the original suspension bushes were actually worn, or did you think anyway it was a good idea to have them replaced. Can you remember which and how many bushes were involved and was it an expensive operation to have done? On my interest in a shock absorber upgrade, a couple of people here have talked favourably about their cars equipped with DCC - adaptive dampers - and I recall seeing similar products available as conversions for existing cars. However I worry that Skoda did a lot of development work in getting DCC to work well & of course I wouldn't be able to replicate that. Anyway, this is one example I've come across https://www.monroe.com/en-gb/products/light-vehicles/shock-absorbers/monroe-intelligent-suspension-ridesense.html Long ago a friend bought a second hand Saab 99 and when I first rode in it I wasn't at all impressed with the bouncy sride. However he shortly afterwards replaced the dampers with Konis and the ride was transformed. Maybe that car was a special case though as had a very short wheelbase for the size of car with big overhangs both ends (same wheelbase as the original Golf I recall) and good dampers would have been critical in such a layout. I mentioned an interest in these Koni Special Actives in March https://www.koniuk.co.uk/products/special-active https://balancemotorsport.co.uk/suspension/shock-absorbers-dampers/koni I will continue researching other options, though I do put down some of my car's ride characteristics to the fact it no doubt has quite firm anti-roll bars to compensate for the highish c.g. - adaptive anti-roll bars not a realistic possibility here. Whilst writing I should have noted in my first message that my recent service included a software upgrade. The dealer said it was to overcome a slight risk of the car deadlocking in certain situations, whatever that means - never happened to me as far as I know. Also I wanted to note that the new 1.0 Fabia was predicatably more economical than the Karoq driving locally a few miles from and to Walthamstow + a short shopping trip, but that engine has been worked on a couple of times by Skoda since I bought my 1.0 car 5 years ago. My Karoq never-the-less does quite well around town, but it is much heavier to start off with + I do further weight it down with various things like a spare wheel etc.

The MOT picked up a weeping front shock absorber and the dealer said it would probably need replacing before the next MOT. So this could be the opportunity for me to replace all the dampers next spring with more up market ones from Koni or a n other. I'd like to reduce the slight rubbery ride over broken surfaces. This was highlighted by the courtesy Fabia 2024 model they lent me, which rode a little firmer but without that slight rubbery quality. However, overall the Karoq is a nicer car with lower road and transmission noise and a nicer interior + that high seating position I like. Maybe the fact the Fabia was a manual didn't help either - couldn't live with that these days + there wasn't enough legroom in the driving seat for my long legs. Still it was impressively rattle free, unlike the almost new Juke I had a couple of years ago, while my Karoq was repared following a bump. They had the new Kodiaq in the dealer showroom + an older one alongside. I must say the new one looks more upmarket both inside and out - a good looking car with a very attractive interior, but it is a big car. Pity they don't seem to be planning to give the Karoq the same treatment.

In my experience, road noise will always be the most prominent noise inmmost cars, except on smooth asphalte road surfaces, where slight wind noise then begins to redominate on motorways in my Karoq. I significantly reduced road noise on my MY19 1.0SE tech DSG a year ago, by amongst other things, going for AW tyres, switching to 16" wheels at the same time. SELs may not be the quietest option as they have removeable rear seats which means they have the roll top boot cover. Fixed rear seats on cheaper models come with a more solid rear shelf which reduces road noise to some extent and I found that there was further mileage in damping down that shelf with wooden stiffening battens fixed to the shelf underside and putting some heavyish matts on top of the shelf. A bit extreme I know but I'm fussy and I do find road noise wearing in any car, even though I don't listen to the car radio much. CAR magazine in early tests noted that the 1.0 was the quietest of all the engine options and I must say I find engine noise is almost undetectable in most driving, including motorways at up to 90mph, even after my road noise reduction efforts. There is a very slight roughness at idling when cold and a minor drone between 1500-2000rpm, when the engine is working hard say on uphills. With the DSG it is easy to change to Sport mode and increase the revs outside this range, not that it is a big issue really. 4cyl engines will have some sort of minor drone too, somewhere in the rev range, but you may find the 1.5 much easier to get hold of. The SE tech came with ACC and I love it despite it's foibles. It was one of the few versions to be so equipped as standard. It's even better working in combination with the DSG. You'll be lucky to find a second hand 1.0 DSG though, as they stopped making them in 2019 and I was very lucky to find the SE tech version when I bought mine. I preferred the equipment supplied on the SE tech to the SEL option.

I think people have been saying that you can switch off predictive cruise control and turn it into good old adaptive cruise control mode. J use ACC a lot and always on motorways but it has its mild foibles, particularly being slow to lock on to any vehicle that moves out in front of me onto my lane, or cuts me up. It is also slow to deregister a vehicle in front in my lane if I wish to pull out to overtake, so I move out in plenty of time and ACC does unlock so my car doesn't suddenly slow down as I pass that other vehicle. I think this anticipation is anyway good practice, even if it does sometimes annoy speed merchants who have to slow down rather than me getting stuck behind the car in front, while they pass. I don't see why I should be inconvenienced in such circumstances when I'm travelling at the speed limit and they are breaking the law, driving well over that limit. Another thing I have find with ACC is that it picks up vehicles travelling in the adjacent right had lane and can be a bit of a nuisance in traffic if they have to slow down more than my car needs to. However I've been finding recently that it seems to stop doing this at speeds below 50mph, which is useful in traffic. However, I need to check on this behaviour more before I can be definite about this.

The man at the independent garage who did my aircon, told me previosly that the machine that does the regassing also can fault find other aspects of the aircon - seals etc. but whether it's a comprehensive check over including compressor etc., I don't know. While writing he also said that he had trouble getting off some of the locking wheel bolts when swapping wheels over and had to use heat. He advised replacing these with ordinary wheel bolts, as if I had a puncture, I'd have great difficulty undoing some locking bolts. He went on to note that people don't steal wheels these days, particularly the 16" steel ones that I have. Hope he's correct.

Resurrecting this oldish thread, I had noted that my aircon on my MY19 1.0 TSI DSG SE Tech Karoq, was making a certain whirring noise and I intended to get it serviced and that I would report back. I finally got round to doing this 2 days ago at a garage in Bristol and the whirring noise is gone - the garage said that fluid levels had been substantially down. At the same time got them to do the 'annual' front to back wheel swap to even out tyre wear. Going down to Bristol the day before on my monthly visit, it was 28*C outside and I set the heater temp to 22*C and was quite comfortable like that. There were big time traffic jams on the M25 around Potters Bar at the journey's start and it took me 1.75hrs to get to the M4 an hour longer than usual. This resulted in an economy figure of around 48mpg for the trip, which actually is not that much worse than I'd been normally getting recently (haven't quite been managing 50mpg on any trip). However on the way back with aircon properly sorted, I broke all records and did just about 55mpg (57mpg on the display - about 4% optimistic). This is 2mpg better than my previous record of a few years ago. This time the outside temperature didn't get above 19*C and I set the heater to 20*C both sides, which I suppose means the aircon didn't really have to work too hard, as it wasn't trying to lower the car air temp. Anyhow pleased to get the aircon sorted and at the improved economy. I must admit he aircon re-gassing may not have been the only factor in the better mpg figure. For my previous 53mpg record there was a big stretch or the M4 from Reading to the M25 limited to 50mph while the road was being Smartened and widened to 4 lanes. This time stretches of the M4 and M25 are now having works done again so soon after, to provide more refuge areas to the Smart motorways + there is a stretch of the M4 before Reading limited to 40mph for bridge strengthening works. All in all about the same number of speed limited miles, I'd say. The garage does note on its website that a poorly gassed aircon leads to reductions in fuel economy and my recent experience tends to confirm this - say 5% better mpg now + aircon is definitely a bit more effective.

I don't think my MY19 1.0 SE tech DSG has the coasting facility, but going downhill, it wants to stay in top gear and so their is little engine braking. Not quite coasting but a good 2nd best and I quite like this. If I want to slow, I use the brake. All my previous auto cars, including a 1.2 DSG Yeti, have wanted to change to a lower gear on anything but moderate downhills, which hasn't often been what I'd want to do. From past posts here, I recall the Karoq 1.5 DSG without coasting is differently set up to the 1.0 DSG and wants to drop down for downhills, like most other auto cars on the road.