thamestrader

@Stonekeeper yes it’s the delay and also the sensitivity of the throttle pedal sensor. I ve read on posts previously that this sensitivity can be adjusted via VAGCOM. We’ve owned 3 different versions of the DSG gearbox: 6 speed DQ250 wet clutch with 2.0 TDI, 7 speed DQ200 dry clutch 1.2 TSI 110 bhp (Fabia) and 7 speed DQ381 2.0 TSI (Karoq). Combination of 6 speed and 2.0 TDI had no perceptible creep delay probably due to diesel low down torque, most noticeable delay is with the Fabia - it’s a smaller engine and it’s a 2015 so DSG and engine software have no doubt been improved since. The 2.0 TSI Karoq, once I mastered the technique, is as good as the 6 speed.

Further to my previous reply, which was written from how I thought I was doing things, this morning I made a note of exactly what I was doing when maneuvering using creep. I have Auto Hold on all the time, I don't switch off to creep. The key to smooth creeping seems to be a delicate presses of throttle OR brake pedals. To shunt back and forth, a light touch on the brake and the gear selector can be moved from D to R OR R to D just before coming to a complete halt - possibly its learning the 'timing' - the auto hold only engages when the car is stationary and you still have pressure on the brake pedal. To creep up carefully and very close to a fixed object like a wall or parked car I was controlling the speed with a very light pressure on the brake pedal. Note that the Emergency braking is feature which uses the parking sensors and front radar is disabled if the brake pedal is being pressed. I experimented with empty cardboard boxes some time ago- my car would always stop before the boxes when creeping without brake pedal pressure, but would hit the boxes if I was lightly pressing the brake pedal. As an aside brake pedal pressure can also be used to prevent Stop/Start from switching the engine off, just reduce the brake pedal pressure slightly just as the car stops, I have stop/start switched on but it hardly ever stops the engine, my right foot has somehow' learnt' to reduce the pedal pressure.

I have the 2023 2.0 TSI Sportline, so I imagine the headlights operate the same. I have the light switch always set to Auto, when I start the car when headlights are needed they come, the beans go up and then come down I assume this is checking the auto levelling mechanism is working correctly. I then move the stalk to Msjn beam position and the dashboard main beam lamp either illuminates blue for main beam or white if dipped beam is in use. I think there is a setting in the Infotainment screen for light settings to activate/deactivate auto main beam/dipped beam. At light I tend to drive on auto main beam all the time, leaving the Karoq to adjust the headlamp beam as required to suit traffic conditions- so far if has worked flawlessly. Has you Karoq had an MOT recently as that will have checked the headlamp beams are aligned correctly- maybe they have switch off the auto dip to check the beam patterns?

Firstly which version if the DSG gearbox do you have? DQ200 dry clutch used with 1.0 TSI engine, 1.5 TSI 2wd and possibly the 2wd diesel Karoqs. DQ381 wet clutch used in all 4x4 Karoqs. Auto hold will have an affect as has been mentioned already. I have a wet clutch DSG 4x4 Karoq and a Fabia with the dry clutch DSG. So taking the wet clutch DSG first with auto hold on, gears ca. only be selected with the foot brake pressed, selecting D or R taking the right foot off the brake pedal and without touching the throttle the car should creep either forwards or back, if you are in a slope it might take fractionally longer before it moves. The wet clutch DSG can slip the clutch without overheating because the clutch plates are cooled by the gearbox oil. Sometimes a light tap on throttle is needed to release Auto hold. With auto hold on there is no need to either apply or release the parking brake manually it is released by tapping the throttle and applied automatically when the engine is switched off. The dry clutch DSG operates in the same way but I find it’s a little slower to start creeping. There are a few situations when auto hold has to be turned off and sometimes left foot braking is needed to make progress- I don’t recommend left foot braking. In the 13 years I’ve been driving DSG cars there most awkward situations were trying to creep out into traffic with severe limited view to the right, a car appears to press the brake pedal and then that car stops to let you out and either hill hold if auto hold has to be released before you can move. Reversing up hill is another that can be awkward if you need throttle to overcome the slope. I find with both the Fabia dry clutch and Karoq wet clutch I can use creep without throttle 99% of the time and use the foot brake to control speed. The trick is to use very light foot brake pressure. If you are still finding it difficult then if could be the DSG clutch biting points need to be “relearnt”. I had this done on the Fabia by an independent DSG specialist. Before it was done the Fabia wouldn’t creep without throttle but thd clutches kept engaging and disengaging unpredictably - took 15 minutes cost £160 and absolutely transformed the car. Hope this helps.

Brake pad wear and therefore lifespan is very much a function of driving style and journey types. I personally find that garages always under estimate how long they will last; partially because they have to err on the side of safety - although this is open to looking like generating extra revenue. I usually change front pads at 72,000 miles, never had rear pads changed even after 162,000 miles in a previous car.

There’s a YouTube video that provides one possible explanation. Basically there is too much grease in the stalk mechanism that can conduct a current causing the wipers to operate even when switched off. I suppose it’s possible that using the indicators could displace some grease and also complete a circuit to allow the wipers to operate. The occasional ranfkm operation when left in Auto mode I think could be caused the camera that senses rain being fooled by dust particles and random water droplets from a passing cars screen washers.

I should also add that I have previously ‘validated’ the ‘Since refuelling MPG’ with brim-to-brim fuelling and the figures were within 0.5 miles per gallon, so I that’s good enough for me.

This particular trip is done regularly over the last 10 years. Outbound is south on the M1 and east on M25, prevailing wind is from the west and outbound is generally better mpg. I leave the aircon (climate control) set to auto and just vary the actual temp setting currently 20c , when the weather cools down it will be lowered to 17/18. @Gerrycan I’d agree the 1.0 or 1.5 would have probably exceeded 60 mpg under similar conditions. I was predominantly in the left most lane, fewer vehicles, the three lanes to the right weren’t moving much faster and had many more vehicles on. What I did notice was when an artic container lorry pulled in after overtaking the instantaneous mpg jumped from 50 ish to 70 to 80 on the flat.

Sisted-in-law asked me to check the tyres in her 2017 1.2 110 bhp SE Fabia, as I often do when we visit her. I removed the factory steel spare wheel, which is full size and fitted with the same size tyre as the four alloy wheels; 185/60 R15. But it’s had thd yellow 80km/h speed restriction sticker like the skinny space saver spare. Anyone any idea why?

Best mpg I’ve recorded with my 2023 2.0 TSI Sportline, 52.2 mpg on a 56 mile trip M25 & M1, running at 55-60 mph mostly. Outbound trip this morning was 44.1 mph at similar speeds. I’ve just started using Shell VPower unleaded could this be a factor or just coincidence.

We own both dry and wet clutch DSG cars, 2015 and 2023 respectively, the 2015 dry clutch doesn’t have autohold only hill hold, so the operation is not identical, the dry clutch car is fractionally slower engaging the drive from stationary, but creeps on idle sand as the wet clutch car.

Correct - I’ve not found the clutches to slip when crawling in traffic at idle rpm. I drive many manual cars, vans minibuses and they will all crawl on the level in first gear totally feet off the clutch and throttle. The DSG is no different. My last DSG VW did 108,000 miles and the was as good as the day I bought it new.

I’ve driven DSG cars since 2013. My approach is to let run at whatever rpm the engine idles at, when you apply the brakes to come to a halt the clutches will disengage. Have autohold ON and the parking brake will come on. Try to leave a slightly bigger gap to the vehicle in front, you will soon work out what size gap is right. When vehicles in front start to move tap the throttle to release the parking brake, let the car start rolling before pressing the throttle more. That’s the reason for allowing a bigger gap, I also react to the brake lights of vehicle ahead of the one in front. I have stop/start ON and this allows time for the engine to restart via a small wiggle of the steering wheel. If you don’t have auto hold you can control the restart with a slight reduction in brake pedal pressure, a further reduction if pedal pressure with engage the clutches and foot off the brake pedal the car starts moving then pressing the throttle. Many drivers seem to dislike stop/start, if only catches you out if you aren’t paying attention to what the engine is doing. There are a few rare situations when it does need tk be temporarily switched off, but it doesn’t damage the starter motor if kill the battery.

Thus is the factory fit Space Saver spare, fitting kit and tools in my 4x4 Sportline. It’s a shallow wheel well due to different rear suspension and rear axle. 2wd Karoqs may have a lower boot floor. It’s a 125/70 R18 tyre. The boot floor it’s on the polystyrene and is approximately 1 inch below the opening.

The Gel is only any good for a slow puncture, it’s a limp you home measure. Many tyre fitting companies will not repair a tyre that’s had the Gel or some other temp solution injected. Remember a Space saver should not be used on the front axle - so use the space saver on the back and put the good back wheel on the front. The TPMS will alert you to a low pressure but unless it’s a pressure monitoring valve it will only alert after the pressure has dropped by around 10 psi. If you have the Gel then you have a pump so you can often do a pump and go sequence.