timmio87

There is a big electrical connector on the steering rack / module right on the subframe, if water gets in this it can cause can bus communication issues which causes various other issues with bits also on the same canbus network. I didn't have my under tray fitted and went through a very deep puddle and couple of miles later the dashboard went mad with all sorts of issues, speedo going beserk and whole host of faults when I plugged in the fault code reader. After a few days of drying out all of the issues went away. I did try to get the power steering connector off to apply some grease to give it a better seal but its really difficult to do so on axle stands and really needs to be on a lift or you need to drop the subframe. Instead I sprayed the connector with some holts damp start which gives a bit of a lacquer seal to electrical connectors and have refitted the under tray and not had any issues since then. My power steering was going heavy and light by the way when the issue occured.

Thanks for that info, I'll run in some extra cables in mine when I get change. What video cable did you end up using for the install? Was it the one supplied with camera or did you buy a shielded one? Also how about the power and ground cables, what type and rating did you use?

Do you still get no interference when the headlights are on and the engine is running? I get some faint lines on the screen when I do this on mine using a similar setup to you although I have earthed to the rear wiper motor body. I have no inference when the engine is running and the headlights are off though. Also when using the rear wiper I get interference on the camera too, engine on and off. Was wondering if this was to do with earthing on wiper motor body or if it was airborne noise being picked up due to the proximity of the camera and motor. If you could let me know that would be great before I got to the effort of running a dedicated earth to the camera.

I tried hooking up a camera, that part works ok but still don’t get the parking sensor display. Not sure if it’s my head unit or something to do with the car module versions. Mines a 58, so last of pre FL so would have thought it’s ok. Do you know what gateway version yours was? Anyone else have experience of this?

Hello, I've installed an Erisin Android head unit on my Pre FL Octavia a couple of days ago and have a couple questions about the CANBUS integration. The head unit i bought is linked below https://www.erisin.com/products/erisin-es8715v-8quot-dsp-android-100-car-radio-carplay-amp-auto-gps-4g-dab-wifi-for-vw-seat-skoda With the CANBUS integration I don’t get any climate info or PDC info on the screen, although the unit detects the car is in reverse, volume drops and the sensor sounder works. With the factory unit (Stream MP3) I got two little distance graphs from the rear of the car when the PDC was activated, I also had key info from the climate flash up when being used i.e front demister on etc. Has anyone had any experience with the pre FL cars using android units, I've seen a lot of info about the FL versions which seem to integrate everything fine. I did quite a bit of reading yesterday which suggested the PDC graph may appear if I hook up a rear camera or maybe if I used a Polar FIS to emulate the display but not sure if this only works for original VW head units? Thanks

Thanks! I will indeed let you know how I get on, hopefully this will be the last thing to do on it this year as I've already done loads; 4 x Calipers, Front Hoses, Hand brake cables and guide tubes (because I drilled through one!), Oil + Filter, Rear Diff Oil, Transfer box oil, Gear Box Oil, New Anetnna Base as well as replacing some CV joint clips that pinged off at the front somehow and packed them at the same time! Fingers crossed this goes ok but if not might just take it to the garage as its getting a bit cold for working outside now.

Its the nut that attaches to the hard steel brake line that runs the length of the car to get to the rear flex hose. The nut is actually underneath at the rears rather than onto at the front. Undoing the nut itself wasn't an issue as I wire brushed it, plus gassed and used a little pick to remove any crust around the fitting. The issue is that the flare has likely bonded / corroded to the inside of the flared nut and wants to spin the hard line when I'm undoing the nut. I suspect this is worse at the rear due to increased expose to road salt. This is similar to what happens when you remove the S shaped little hard line which routes around the back of the calliper but that doesn't matter as you can replace them easily and are only £15. The issue I have is that if I keep going too much here I'm going to snap the main hard line and will probably have to remake which would mean buying an on car flare tool and some kunifer pipe to replace a small section, something I want to avoid. I'm going to try again this weekend and try apply more heat to it and hope the corrosion breaks up it not I'll I've got one other option which is to try and spin off the flex hose from the nut rather than doing the nut, this will rely on pushing the hard line up enough to allow the flex hose to get away from the retaining tab on the body. Then free the nut afterwards as I'll have access to the corroded flared area - I hope.. If that fails they take it to a garage or remake the ends but haven't decided which would be more cost effective. Got the idea for the flex line off first here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCn11bd3jKs Any other tips welcome!

Thanks MicMac, how close to the existing union did you cut? Looks like the drivers side is a bit of faff as it quickly goes over the rear axle and around the fuel tanks (twin tanks on the 4x4). So not really an easily accessible straight section before it gets to the passenger side suspension arm. Cheers Tim

Hi all, I've been doing some work on my brakes and the last item to sort is the rear brake hoses which I was hoping would be straight forward, but its turning out to be a right pain! The issue is the brake union nut (onto the hard line) is spinning the steel brake hose when I'm trying to undo it. Tried all sorts to sort this, plus gas, heat, removing the plastic coating encase this was grabbing the steel line but nothing has worked. Cant be the only person who's had the issue so was wondering how people solved this, currently thinking I'm going to have to cut the lines and remake the last sections Thanks