Piescoffer

Yeah the garage are actually bmw specialists primarily so not used to working on VAG stuff as such but glad we got there in the end. Never expected it on a newish low mileage car but the car came from a car supermarket and no idea who previous owner was or if it was ex rental etc. Back in the day buying a car I would always ask dealer to see log book and then try to look the previous owner up in telephone directory 😂 data protection doesnt allow you them to show you anything anymore. If an old receipt or invoice has previous owners details on that has to be removed as well.

Thank you very much for this that seems to explain things better. I will get the one from Ebay and that should sort it out. Much appreciated and kind regards.

Thank you yes I would really appreciate that. Who would have thought buying a wiper blade would be so difficult 😆

Yes thanks for this it looks like the right one. Says on Ebay it won't fit and is 04/23 onwards but looking at the picture of the fitting it may be correct.

Yes thats what is on mine thanks for this very helpful

Thank you for this. So I assume that there is no bosch alternative available? £27 seems a bit excessive for a tiny single wiper 🤨 ill take a look online now at the part number and see. Very useful info. I looked also on euro car parts but the 2 different ones listed for the car on there are not right either.

Hi fellow skoda enthusiasts. I have a 2022 Karoq GL72FAK. I have recently serviced it and have replaced all wiper blades as we're making a horrendous noise. The rear bosch wiper I ordered based on assured fit from eBay using the registration. Also cross referenced this and A331H appears to be only one suitable. However this does not fit the car. I have contacted the supplier and they insist that this is correct for the car but the fitting is wrong so I suspect some kind of change during the production run of the car. I dont suppose anyone has encountered this issue and what the correct replacement is please? Many thanks.

Yeah all appears OK now. Think they reset the selector cables. Also plugged into computer and had to tell ECU that it has a new clutch which then resolved the hold assist feature and seems to release nicely now. Fingers crossed thats the issues resolved now. 🤞

All sorted now. Garage were able to plug car in and said they needed to tell ECU that a new clutch had been installed which then sorted the hold assist out and now releases perfectly. They also did rear pads and everything feels OK now 🤞

Just had a new clutch flitted on a 2022 1.0 Tsi with 37k. Old one was burnt out and feels loads better now. Got an issue with very sticky 2nd gear. I've tried resetting selector cables but not improved matters. It's going on tomorrow to be looked at. Had issues engaging 2nd when cold and also 6th didn't feel great. Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions why this might have happened please. Also got at issue with hold assist not releasing but that's another story 😔

Well the clutch has now been replaced. I had a look at the old friction plate and it was completely knackered worn down to the rivets and disintegrating on the edges. Unfortunately now 2nd gear is very notchy and struggled to engage it when cold so it's going back in tomorrow to be looked at again. Also now noticed an issue with the hold assist. Green light comes on when stationary but then doesn't release until clutch pedal fully released by which time the engine stalls. Wondering if this was part of the cause of the worn out clutch. Either that or the previous owner was a bad driver. Having had a look online othere have reported this and was fixed by either a recalibration or software update by skoda. It's still under warranty until November so looking like may be a trip to them to resolve. I have tried a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for an hour (every dash light and warning came on afterwards) Also tried to hold the button down for 5 seconds and then another 5 seconds but nothing has worked. I've just serviced the car and noticed that it needs new rear pads so ordered a set but have since seen that you need a diag tool to put the electric caliper into service mode 😮‍💨 my obd2 tool only reads and clears codes so probably going to have to pay for that to be done Also. Whatever was wrong with manual handbrakes? 😌

Thanks its been back in today and decision taken to install a new clutch so fingers crossed that cures it 🤞The biting point feels better since it's had a new slave but is still slipping so they think that the faulty slave over time may have damaged the clutch.

Hi it seems fine starting on a hill no judder or anything unusual. Seems to engage ok and accelerates under moderate load but then starts to slip under heavy load.

Good evening fellow Skoda owners. My daughter purchased a 2022 Karoq about 8 months ago from a car supermarket. It has only got 38k on clock. Had a few issues initially with suspension noises which the dealer eventually sorted out. Recently on a long drive got a message on dash "Clutch temperature too high - drive on" which was accompanied by the EPC light coming on and another message "Ensure clutch pedal not depressed" I have driven it myself and found that particularly when in high gears and putting foot down hard the revs increase and then the EPC kicks in and cuts the revs before all of the above messages appear. Took it to a trusted VW garage who suggested that it could be the slave cylinder which has some kind of valve which are known for not fully releasing the pressure in the clutch hydraulics and could be causing the issue. I think at some stage there was a recall for this, not sure if on this particular variant or if on another platform sharing the same drive train. The slave cylinder has been replaced and unfortunately has not cured the issue, so its going back in soon to be looked at again and potentially looking at a new clutch which is going to be costly. There is no smell of burnt clutch when this happens and the biting point is not high as I would have expected if the clutch was worn out so its a bit of a strange one. The slave is not concentric which rules out fluid leaking onto the clutch, not sure if oil could have found its way in there. Just wondered if anyone has experienced this issue at all and if the only cure was to replace the clutch. Its out of warranty with the dealer now but from past experience its a wear and tear item anyway and wouldn't be covered. It still has a couple of manufacturer warranty left but guessing that's going to be pretty much useless now anyway for this issue. My last car had 105k on clock when I sold it on its original clutch but I guess it depends how the previous owner drove it. Cheers guys!

Only about 3 months.

Greetings fellow Octavia enthusiasts. Bit of a long story but I am having an issue with creaking rear axle bushes (diagnosed by myself and by a main dealer I bought the car from a few months ago) I am in dispute with them as the issue was present at the point of sale which I did point out to them within a few days of purchase. Anyway they are so far refusing to repair and say that if I want to pay for it myself through them it will be £750 which seems a bit excessive. I have read other threads about this issue and understand a special type of lithium grease needs to be used as this is a common issue on some VAG cars built on this platform. Just wondered if anyone has had to pay for this and roughly what it cost please just so I have a sensible point of reference. I might try to contact Skoda also to see what they would charge. Cheers guys 🙂

Greetings fellow octavia enthusiasts. I've recently bought a 2017 Octavia 1.4 TSI SE L It has nice alloys and newish tyres although they are a non descript brand. The tyres are 225 / 45 / 17 and I'm finding the ride a little harsh compared to my last Octavia which was the SE model and had tyres with bigger sidewalls. Doesn't help with local roads being totally knackered. Just wondered if anyone had experienced this and either changed out the tyres for a higher profile or just swapped the alloys. Some of the superb alloys look nice but not sure if they are the same stud pattern and how I would let the car know it was running on a different wheel or tyre size so as to maintain speedo accuracy etc. Failing that swapping the tyres for a decent brand could help. Many thanks for any input 👍

Greetings fellow Octavia enthusiasts 🙂 I have recently purchased a 2017 Octavia SE L 1.4 Tsi Hatch manual and absolutely love it! My last Octavia was an SE Estate 1.6 TDi estate and am loving the SE L spec. I have purchased a genuine boot spoiler from Kopacec - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/sale/octavia-iii-original-skoda-autoas-rear-trunk-spoiler-from-the-rs230-limited-edition-unpainted-2 I am going to get this color coded and professionally fitted, however the spoiler was delivered without any fitting kit or template guide etc. I emailed them and they said (quite abruptly) we dont supply them to prevent people trying to install them themselves on a drive or in a garage. It looks like it will need 4 bolts and 2 bonded gaskets and have searched the internet and cannot find any info on where I could get hold of this to pass to the body shop (they may not need it but thought it would help) Just wondered if anyone has any experience of fitting one of these and if they know of any info please ☺️ I have also got the Monte Carlo black lettering to go with the black badges to fit.

Greetings Mk1 enthusiasts, I am replacing my front right side caliper and one of the hex head slider pins has rounded out from rust (someone in the past didnt replace the plastic cap 😞) So I need a new set of pins. My brake discs are 239mm and the caliper has a 48mm Piston. When I went to get the new caliper I initially was supplied with a caliper with a 54mm piston as using the reg on parts websites seems to point to that size, however it was too big for my pads. I have got the correct caliper now but new slider pins were not included. My Fabia is an 06 1.2 htp 54 Horses! 💨 I have looked on fleabay and found these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333980547564?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+I|Model%3AFabia&hash=item4dc2cab9ec:g:ZRIAAOSwTSFjc3Uv&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8BEL%2BfzidKADCX1mRfO2EOzmaATDyR0dAquTkbSI1fwOViqZ11s99xzYwJmdFDiGQvdQPCwPrWjFnpoWV5lOY574XVUGd5hb3ZVJ06C7mm%2FRnT5dZo3sOG4PUqgYGTHSlbr%2F8tzsLG6sKDQf0spO2J%2FT2KcGsfN22wZrV75hu%2FR0DUzLhoqPf22wpZ2b6TzNNl10yHZcEpr5o1IU107%2BigHOXFtl7jT8%2FozBsyA2P3zpwrbShatkfIIsq3XM7bGutR0AX49K2vtuLwwXAWipfpA%2B9rSYFSBjWn%2BG5B%2BIDWZomiJkUkeHf2yAu7MevcQGog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6r12t_FYQ However it states that they fit a caliper designed for 256mm discs and I cannot see any designed for 239mm discs. I don't suppose anyone has the same size as mine and has replaced the pins or has knowledge of the compatibility as just want to make sure I order the correct ones first time if possible 😁🤞 Cheers people 🙂

Thanks @Stewartasb I have been subscribed to Hat Boy Harvey for some time and had seen that video as my front drivers side door, I have to push the handle in firmly after unlocking until it clicks otherwise the door wont open. It has been like that for some time and I need to make that adjustment. I never thought to check that adjustment on the rear door but will have a go at the weekend and see what happens. I have presently disconnected the lock at the B Pillar connector with it open as did not want to risk not being able to get into it again, with it having stayed locked for a couple of months. The rest of the doors still lock but it's not ideal from a security perspective. I have inspected the A and B Pillar looms that I can see by peeling back the rubber gaitor and cannot see any broken wires, and as mentioned the solenoid unit was replaced less than a year ago so hopefully the adjustment will work, if not I might need to bite the bullet and order another solenoid unit, they are only about £20 on fleabay. Cheers - Simon.

Good morning Mk1 enthusiasts 🙂 About a year ago the R/H rear door lock mechanism started playing up. I managed to get it open by running the engine and banging the handle which operating the switch on the drivers door. Having read loads of posts about people experiencing the same issue I got a new unit off fleabay and replaced it. Unfortunately on this year of fabia (2006) the inner door panels are riveted on, so what would have been a fairly straightforward procedure turned into a nightmare of broken drill bits, bleeding knuckles and lots of swearing. I eventually managed to source the right size rivets and a new rivet gun, and then applied copious amounts of plumbers gold all around the edge thinking that I would never need access to it again. All was well until about a month ago when the same door would not unlock from the inside or outside, and despite thumping 7 shades out of it, charging the battery up fully and running the engine while pressing the button 100s of times it would not yield. I have checked the wiring in the rubber tubing and cannot see any broken wires, also when the lock / unlock buttons are pressed I can hear the mechanism operating in that door. My Fabia does not have the plastic pop up buttons in the top of the rear door cards, although the panels are moulded in such a way as to accomodate these in earlier models. This morning randomly the door has unlocked itself. I am now reluctant to ever lock the car again 😆 I am wondering now about the possibility that a wire could be broken inside of its outer plastic coating. I have the haynes manual and have looked at the wiring diagram, but it does not show specifically which colour wire is responsible for triggering the unit to unlock. Does anyone have any clue which wire this is please? It is entirely possible that the new unit is failing, given its a cheap fleabay job probably made for pennies in china, however the thought of spending hours drilling all of the rivets out again and trying to unstick the inner panel from the plumbers gold does not seem very appealing. I did wonder if there was a way to disable the lock from deadlocking itself, and still allow it to be opened from the handle inside the car, but having spent half an hour on google I cannot see that this has ever been done before. I probably clutching at straws to be honest trying to put off the inevitable strip down of the door again 😒 Cheers! - Simon.

Thanks for the helpful advice guys, I found some GT85 in cupboard last night and gave it a blast of that to soak overnight. This morning it still wouldn't budge but I heated the metal pipe up with a lighter until it started to smoke a bit and gave it a good yank, then it finally came out 😁 Managed to re-position the guide tube as well but installation of the new cable wasnt exactly straightforward, the metal clip was a bit of a bugger due to the new cable having a thicker outer sheath, so took a bit of wrestling to get it to clip in. I noticed in the skoda manual it says to use a new one each time it is removed but it seems to be secure enough now. So a job that I thought was going to take an hour ended up being about 7 hours in total, but will need to do the other side soon as although it is not damaged it has got stretched over time and the balancer is now at full tilt. I did buy a pair of cables anyway as had expected that. Hopefully with lessons learnt the other side will be easier 🤞

Hi @Warrior193 thanks for replying did you have anything in mind please 😁

Greetings fellow Mk1 enthusiasts. My nearside handbrake cable gave up the ghost recently so attempted to install a new one today. All was going well until I attempted to withdraw the cable from the aluminium guide and found that it had seized inside the tube. 1 hour of wrestling later ( lots of expletives and a couple of minor injuries) and it is still stuck, and to top it off I have managed to pull the guide tube out of the hole that it sits in beneath the rear of the center console. I have sprayed copious amounts of wd40 on it and left it to soak overnight as daylight has faded now so will give it another go tomorrow. Just wondered if anyone else had encountered this issue and how they managed to get the bugger out! 🥵 I had a look at the skoda workshop manual and it looked like a nice easy job 🤨 Thanks in advance for any helpful advice 🤔

Yeah I was thinking of trying the easiest things first. I've never done a master cylinder I assume it's a more long winded job has anyone ever done one at all?