JamesD1976

Thanks all, seems a common Skoda issue then. Mine has been frozen solid for the last 48hrs. I've been climbing in and out of the passenger seat. Hopefully once it gets milder I can get it all dry and WD40 it and then perhaps get it greased this summer.

Thank you for that WRW. Strangely enough someone at work with a Skoda Fabia said it happens on her car too and some hot water usually defreezes it too so I'll try that (or just remember to get in on passenger side and climb over but I'll forget and be left with a door open lol). I'll get a small heat gun ordered off Amazon too. Thanks again

Hi all. Please could someone help. If it's been freezing overnight and I have to pull the drivers door open, I then can't get the door lock to catch back on the A pillar again. Door closes, but no lock. Tried lots of WD40 (and anti freeze), flicked the lock about and eventually it un-sticks itself and works again but it's becoming a real pain. It only seems to be an issue when it's freezing cold. Any longer term solutions please? Thank you.

Hi MicMac. Without going into detail. Usually carry on with limp mode, going up slight hill, hovering around 2000rpm, put your foot down, clunk limp mode. Pull over, turn on off again, back to normal. Did the Mr Muscle turbo clean, worked a treat, but a few months later it's just started hicuping or missing a beat just around same rpm again like it's almost trying to go back into limp but then pulls out of it again. Not doing Mr Muscle again. Seen some reconditioned turbos on eBay around £240 and thought whilst the engine is in bits how much extra effort would be required by the garage to replace the turbo, also really don't want to spend twice with labour pulling the engine in bits again or have the turbo brake on me after I've spent money on the timing belt and DMF.

Hi all. I own a 2009 2.0tdi with 130,000 miles. The DMF is on its way out and after a turbo Mr Muscle clean which did help a lot I'm still noticing it trying it's best to go into limp mode. Whilst the car is in bits for its DMF is it worth replacing the turbo at the same time with a reconditioned unit. Can anyone advise on price for turbo replacement? If I decide to do this and buy one from Fleebay are there any part numbers I should be looking out for so the turbo is a compatable fit. Thanks all.

After reading Lofty79 guide for doing the Mr Muscle on the Skoda Octavia (thank you Lofty79). I thought I would write my own guide but this is for those lucky enough to be able to get underneath the car as the process was a bit easier and there was no worrying about where the hose has to go and less parts to remove. You'll need car ramps at a minimum. Please only do this at your own risk and safety and this was on a 2008 2.0tdi 140 BKD (other models maybe different). You will need the following. 1) Mr Muscle with the WD40 top & Straw (no hose needed). 2) Ratchet and most importantly lots of extensions with allen key type sockets and 16mm socket. 3) Order part 410538 exhaust gasket (£5 max). You'll know why later. 4) Long strong screw drivers. 5) Some light (torch etc) 6) ideally two of you. 7) Some small long nose mole grips. 8) Latex gloves, cloths, goggles. OK here we go. A) Remove the plastic sump protector. (4 hex screws either side, 3-4 at the back. You will now be easily be able to see the turbo on the opposite side of the drive shaft by looking up towards the bonnet. B) Make sure your ratchet extensions with allen socket can reach the exhaust clamp and allen bolt first otherwise you're wasting your time. This exhaust clamp holds the exhaust to the turbo, the cat is connected to the exhaust, depending on where the head of the allen bolt is, depends whether you go in vertically underneath or at an angle from the hole further back. This is why you need extensions (it's obvious). C) Undo the 16mm bolts holding the cat in place on the rubber mount further back and on the twisted angle bar. You won't need to remove the cat and exhaust. You don't need to take this little bracket off either, just unscrew it a fair bit but disconnect it from the cat. D) Undo the allen bolt exhaust clamp which holds the cat to the turbo, you'll now need a screwdriver to prise the clamp away, once it's almost off, ours wouldn't quite come off completely but with some light tapping the exhaust/cat and turbo will separate. Important - Look at which way the gasket (part 410538) is on. The reason to undo the cat 16mm bolts and bracket is so you can move the cat out of the way slightly and get into the turbo. E) Place some small long nose pliers on the actuater lever in prep to pump it. (you don't need to do but it makes pumping it easier). F) Put the WD40 top and straw on the Mr Muscle and carefully fill the turbo with Mr Muscle. Put a cloth on the drive shaft boot underneath. Careful with your skin and eyes. G) After 20 minutes pump the actuater the mole grips make it dead easy. H) Do F&G over next 2hrs every 30 minutes for the next 2 hours. I) Replace the gasket (part 410538) the right way round, no glue or sealant required, the 3 lugs will hold it in place they do not sit into any holes, they are there to hold the gasket it place whilst you put it together. J) Put the cat back in place with the brackets, placing & lining up the cat with the turbo, no need to put the allen bolt exhaust clamp on yet. K) Make sure the allen bolt is threaded on slightly on the exhaust clamp and place the clamp over the cat/exhaust and turbo, place the allen bolt back in place and tighten, make sure the clamp nips both exhaust and turbo together. Again no sealant required. L) That's it, replace the sump tray, start it up, go for a gentle drive then once up to temperature give it a blast. I have hopefully added a photo of the gasket and allen bolt in the photos so you know what I'm talking about. I've made it sound quite complicated but it wasn't I've just gone into detail. Photos and clamp below, you probably won't need a new clamp but the gasket is worth replacing. Good luck.

Yep it does feel worse on warm up. TBF garage said like you, it could go in 3 months, then again it could last 36 months. I've got breakdown cover so I'll wait for the inevitable lol.

Oh that's not good if you were thinking the same. Maybe there is a slight change but it's not too significant. I don't get any of the other symptoms. Gear changes are fine, no clutch slipping, drives normally, pulls ok in higher gears etc. I literally add 500 rpm it goes away. Thanks

Hi all. I have a 2008 2.0tdi with 125k on the clock. When the vehicle is stationary and the engine is on tick over it sounds like about every 2 seconds ish like it is missing a beat or the engine jumps ever so slightly. This can vary from 1 second to 3 seconds, it's like it's jumping. It drives fine but it is noticeable. As soon as you just rev it ever so slightly whether you are moving away or not it goes away. The garage reckoned it was the dual Mass Flywheel. I'm not so sure about that though as there is no issue with the clutch or gear changes at all. Has anyone got any ideas? Thanks and Happy Christmas

I currently own a 2008 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI. I'm about to replace my DMF soon however my turbo vanes have now started sticking. I'm not mechanically gifted so I'm not going to be doing the Mr Muscle trick either. I've also tried the Wynn turbo cleaner additive too which didn't help. I'm obviously going to ask the garage myself but so I don't get my pants pulled down. My question is whilst the DMF is being replaced can they easily gain access to the turbo and either clean it or replace it with a reconditioned one or is it an entirely separate job? Has anyone any idea of costs to sort the turbo? (I'm aware the DMF is around the £800 mark). Thank you.

Thanks both. It started doing this from cold. Just taken it to the garage tonight and it drove fine on the way there so who only knows what's going on with it. As ruffday says probably needs a scan. I've heard these talks about Mr Muscle, nooo, just nooo. Not right, recipe for disaster.

Hi all. I feel like I've bought a story car but here goes my next problem and hope you can help. I have recently bought a 2008 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI manual. Last night on my way home from work I lost a whole load of power especially going uphills. On the flat it wasn't as bad. No engine warning lights, gears were fine smooth, clutch was fine, engine was still relatively smooth. I could rev it to the red line which suggested it wasn't limp mode. The turbo however didn't seem like it was kicking in properly. Overall it drove fine but it really died going up hill. Does anyone know what this could be? Thank you.

Thanks Rustynuts, however I've had the car into the garage this morning as I noticed the reverse lights weren't on either (school boy error). Turns out there was a snapped wire on the reverse switch. It's had a temporary fix and everything is working fine now including a screen display. It does need a longer piece of wire and connector fitting buts that's for another day when it's in for its Dual Mass Flywheel but that's another headache for another day.

Please could you tell me how much this would cost? Thank you.

I don't have quite so many issues with it. Heater doesn't show on the screen but didn't think it had to? I have the same issue re Bluetooth requiring pairing every journey which is a right pain in the backside. Why doesn't it remember? Think I'll swop it out. I just don't want to be in the same position again if I swop it to another aftermarket one and not a genuine Skoda unit.