Baroket

Thanks for the reply, my reg is M11YKU.

I have a shock absorber that needs replacing and am going to be refreshing the rest of the suspension. 16 year old components are well in need of replacement. I’m not wanting to drop the height too much and have looked at a set of ST coils and shocks. @Damian@DPM Can I confirm that these are the correct strut width for my vRS? PR, G07, L55, 2UC. Anything to watch out for when taking the suspension out? Also trying to find part numbers for items like strut mounts & bearings and bump stops. Is there anything else I should check or change while I’m changing suspension?

It's impossible to give an answer just based off of a cylinder 3 misfire. It could be either the coil, spark plug or the injector. If you have a set of torx bits, a spark plug socket and an hour you can do some diagnosis by first swapping the coils from cylinder 2 & 3. If the fault goes from cyl 3 to cyl 2, then it's the coils - I'd replace all 4. If the fault remains on cyl 3, then swap the spark plugs. If the fault moves, it's the spark plugs - again I'd replace all four. If after doing the above, the misfire is still persistent on cyl 3, then it'll more than likely be the injector. If the fault does turn out to be an injector, then it will be a rather expensive repair as the injectors alone are around £300 each. Speaking from experience the cost of replacing the injectors at a VAG specialist cost me around £2500.

I've got the Milltek non-resonated system. It sounds great, isn't too loud and it doesn't have an annoying drone. The only time I really notice the sound is when I'm making serious progress down the motorway. Untitled video - Made with Clipchamp (2).mp4

I've added a few photographs. Key for scale reference In the yellow circle photo, it is very difficult to see at a certain angle but it very visible from all other angles (as it's all I can see when I'm sat in the drivers seat).

Just had my rear windows tinted and the person who did the work neglected to use trim removal tools to loosen the door cards to remove the window seal. It'd be a fruitless endeavour chasing them to sort it, so I'm looking to at least try and repair it myself. Basically the soft material at the top of the door card was ripped vertically, leaving a 50 - 60mm tear. Any suggestions on how to stick it back together or at least reduce its visibility? I know it's a tall ask without having a reference to go by but I can add a photo tomorrow morning when it's light.

As I wasn't sure which level of tint option I should be choosing, I ended up getting in contact with Admiral via their web chat. From the information I gave, they applied the Windows - tinted <30% option. If you are in a similar situation, don't take this post as advice and always inquire with your insurer directly.

I'm consistently baffled by the quotes I get when I (try) to shop around. I've been with Admiral since at least 2006 and every single year, without fail, they have been the cheapest for me with every car I've had. One thing I have found insurance companies like is to be consistent with your vehicle and to keep it long term, they really don't like change. Age is also a major factor as I've been told 26 - 55 is the "sweet spot" as younger and elderly drivers are a bigger risk. Your locale is one of the biggest factors I find that'll effect the premium, if there's a lot of crime and claims, then that'll put your insurance up. Overnight location is just for show as I have found that unless you say your car is kept in a locked garage, the premium is unaffected. Modifications is another mystery altogether! Engine tuning and styling modifications will obviously increase the premium, but when I declared my Miltek cat-back exhaust & Ram-Air induction kit, Admiral were only wanting the admin fee to update the policy! Obviously take what I say with a grain of salt as this is only my own experience. It could be all determined by tea-leaves and osteomancy as far as we know!

I have my car booked in to get a 30% tint on the rear windows only. I am with Admiral and their options are Windows - rear darkened >30% or Windows - tinted <30%. My question is, do I take the factory tint into consideration? If so, then I would obviously need to choose the >30% darkened option. I'm just wanting to keep myself right.

Milltek will probably be the most economical option with the added bonus of sounding better. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282305882240 https://www.millteksport.com/dealers/

Took a bit longer than 10 seconds, but I've already done that. The connection at the sensor and harness is destroyed and no longer weather tight.

It was deliberately damaged by them, so they’re not getting near it again. Their expense was reimbursing the expense of a genuine sensor and harness I got from nearby Skoda dealership.

Hello, I'm having to replace the rear left wheel speed sensor and harness after they were damaged at a local garage when it was in. As the harness comes into the passenger compartment, I'm wondering which bits of trim do I need to remove. From what I can figure I have to fold down the rear seat backs and remove the cushioned trim next to the C pillar (does it just pull off?) and then get under the carpet. Anything to look out for or be extra careful with? Thanks

I have a 2008 Octavia vRS with the 2l petrol BWA ea113. Around 8 months ago, I upgraded my air intake from the standard engine cover style to a Ram Air brand, cone style kit. All has been fine until a few months ago. There is a bung (pictured) used to blank off a section that’s not needed for the Octavia. There is something that is causing this bung to pop out. Something that I think is causing back pressure in the induction pipe great enough to force it out. I haven’t heard anything that would be an obvious sign to look at first. But with that being said I have heard compressor surge sometimes when coming off partial throttle. Usually can occur when changing from 1st to 2nd. I can tell when the bung has popped out when I put my foot down and the car fells ridiculously slow. Pop the hood and the bung is gone. Replace it and all is good. I’m now on replacement bung number 3. Any one experienced anything similar or have any leads on what to investigate? Thanks 🙏

Hope these pictures help

BWA

Thank you both for the replies. I’ve attached a photo as the diagrams don’t match what I have (unless I’m being blind). I had the car at the dealership today for diagnostics as the TC, ABS and TPMS lights were on. I’m assuming that it’s fine as is, since it wasn’t mentioned on the vehicle health/condition check they do as part of the diagnostics.

Hi, I’m wondering if the black plastic holder that keeps the fuel filter at the rear secure can be replaced as it looks like it’s part of the fuel tank. I couldn’t really tell as the position I was working in was a bit awkward. I was doing a fuel filter replacement and seen that the plastic around the filter had been cut and the old filter was crudely cable tied.