CityScout

I've searched every way I can think of but can't find anything at all on the Forum regarding the actual cambelt change job for The Memsahib's 2012, 3 cylinder, 1.0 litre petrol (with a CHYA motor) Regardless of mileage/age, I'm doing it and have a kit. Anyone know if this is the right tool set?: eBay UKPetrol Engine Timing Tool Set For VW Golf Audi 1.0 1.2 1....1.2 TFSI: CJZA,CJZB. 1.4 TFSI: CMBA, CXSA, CHPA. 1.2/1.4 for TSI. 1.4 for TSI Multi Fuel CPVA. 1.0 for TSI 3-cylinder, engine code CHZE, CHZC, CHZA, CHZB, CHZC, CHZD, CHZJ. 1.2 for TSI 4-cylinder, enghttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365369596077 Don't take too much notice of the engine codes in the image, the listing has a longer list. The Fleabay seller 'says' it's right but then so do several others with a kit that looks nothing like the above, yet others offer the same kit and quote different engine codes. The usual ebay crappy control of listings, I guess .............. That apart, I'd be very grateful to anyone who's got any info/links to anything where someone has actually done the job? Will ps. love the pair of gloves, don't want dirty fingernails now, do we? 😊

Thank you. 🙏 I can certainly see the need for the RHD/LHD distinction with aero wipers. Now you point it out the ones on the car have some sort of aero function, with a slightly raised spoiler towards the top edge of the blade and the attachment clip is not symetrical, so they can't be reversed. Makes sense now. Below is a picture of some cheap ones I tried - which were sadly a bit of a fail and went back. They looked the part but needed a small mod with a needle file to make them fit - which they did very securely after doing it. No great drama there but the real spolier (pun intended) was that in their efforts to avoid damage in transit they had protected them well but crammed them into a bag that was much too short. The result was that they took a 'set', were too bowed and wouldn't make proper contact with the screen in the middle of the blade. A waste of otherwise decent wipers. Other example I've found where buyers have shown pictures of what arrived were more promising - but no mention on being RHD/LHD handed. That's what sparked the question.

I was trying to discover if one or two vendors actually knew something specific about RHD and LHD vehicles and had different blades available - or if they just didn't know what they were talking about. I begin to suspect the second option but perhaps some kind soul has access to a parts list to set the record straight. 🤙 There were no part numbers involved, just 'LHD' and 'RHD'

Yep, I know they are a different size, it's the question of whether RHD, or LHD are different fitting/part number.

Does anyone know if the wiper blades are handed - as in terms of right and left hand drive? I see listings in a couple of places that distinguish between the two but as far as I can see, the crank on the end of the arms might differ but not the blades themselves.

Has anyone any hints and tips when it comes to replacing the alternator on a 2015 Scout, CRMB engine? How to get at it without skinning every single knuckle? How to identify the correct type before removal? The crankshaft pulley, belt and idler have been replaced already, a year later and judging by the noise, it now seems the alternator bearings are giving up.

It would slide up and out but unfortunately it's potted in place and the pot is quite hard, so will probably destroy all behind it when removed. The simplest will be a cut/splice/solder replacement - if I can source a buld holder that fits

I am a well known exponent of the Art of Fine Bodgery. If it works, I won't turn my back on it. What I did was take the snapped off contact - a bit of soft brass (which I would have expected to be stiff and springy ???) - and rearranged its shape to jamb between the remaining bit of contact and the side of the bulb holder, protruding into the bulb socket to make contact with the side of the bulb. It's worked OK but I will try and source a suitable holder if I can and solder/splice it in to the harness. I baulk at paying £50 for a few bits of wire in order to replace a 50p bulb holder.

Don't know how I worked out it tallied with yours. I'll use the excuse it was late ......... Mine's a late '16 Scout, so my numbers seem correct, now that I've worked my way around the K8B/K8D difference - Notchback, or Wagon/Avant Naturally the one I need is twice the price ................🙄 It will most probably be a scrapper and/or cut and splice.

No, I hadn't seen it and thanks for the link. I had come up with: 5E9945257A which tallies with yours as the one that's broken is the left side. 5E9945258A is for the right hand side.

No probs. I think I've found the loom and its part number - but the only place at a reasonable price for a new one (€25+tax) was in - Czech ......... or Czechia ..... or Czech Republic ............ or whatever it's know as this week. It's the scrappers ...........

A thought - or rather a question: Do you perchance have a part number for the loom - nearside if it makes any difference?

Ta for that. I could see there was a loom pushed into the back of it and I guess it's a start if it's replaceable as a part unit. Having said that, at £55 a pop, it'll probably be a visit to a Scrappers .......... 🙂

Anyone come across this one? Got a brake light fail warning, so stopped and checked. Yep, bulb out, check boot, spares at home. Rats. Make note to head for Halfords at destination as I'm 200 miles from home and headed in the opposite direction. On restart, noticed 'Fail' warning was gone - but reappeared 50 miles later. Check again after stopping and - it's working. Just in case it's a dodgy bulb, I put a new one (from Halfords) in. Repeat process 20 miles later: Fail warning, bulb out, restart, fail gone etc, etc. Eventually discovered that the earthing contact in the bulb holder has broken and hanging loose, making contact now and again, hence intermittent fault. The picture shows a similar contact from the same light unit but not the brake light - I bodged that one up to keep contact and didn't want to disturb it. It had snapped right at the top and fell out as soon as I tried to move it. I assume there's no way to replace the individual bulb holders as they look to be 'potted' with something fairly immovable? I'm not beyond the ability to cut and splice a new holder in but wondered if anyone knew of the problem, or a solution that doesn't require replacing the whole light unit?

Did you get anywhere with it?

Many thanks. 👍

I've searched - honest - and can't find what I'm looking for, which is: 2015 2.0 TDI Scout (CRMB engine): A list of (SKF/INA/Dayco) cambelt full kit part numbers. A guide on changing the cambelt. I've done loads of cambelts over the years, including at least half a dozen of the old PD engines - but it's never a bad idea to take note of the wrinkles someone else has ironed out. It has all come about because it's been little used this last two years and the first time it was started after a long period of being idle (apart from a failed battery - another story) it had developed a bit of a squeak. Chased it down to the auxiliary belt area and just the faintest hint of metal filings round the bottom pulley. I figured at 60K miles, 7 years and irregular usage, I might as well do the lot, especially the cambelt and water pump. Sourcing a bottom pulley, possibly the belt tensioner, is another part of the job. If anyone can fill the gaps, I'd be grateful.

I'm afraid that has NOT been my experience with AGMs. Apart from my less than wonderful encounters with them, if you look at the cost-benefit based on manufacturer's predicted Start-Stop cycles, £-for-£ compared to something like an EFB of the same quality, AGMs don't add up. The Scout is a basic Start-Stop system, so for now I'll stick with EFBs 😀 It's more the Law of Sod than anything else that my kit is not here to help recode it when the battery decides to quit.

It isn't common but by no means unknown, especially on older vehicles. Modern vehicles tend to have better control of the charging systems, the older systems just whacked 14.4 volts and varying amounts of current into the battery without much control. The result was boiled off electrolyte, causing the above mentioned catastrophe. Sealed batteries (as was the one that went bang) are not immune to gross overcharging and don't allow the electrolyte to be checked, so the problem is still there - but hidden. In my case the whole charging and distribution system (a Schaudt unit in a motorhome) was eventually found to have been butchered by the 'repair' done for the previous owner, after a fault, probably in the 3-way fridge, damaged some wiring and the internals of the Schaudt unit. It looks like his 'workaround' cooked the battery over a couple of years and the rest is history - plus a lot of extra laundry.😰 Anyhow! Back to the original question .................. By some miracle, the pulse-charge 'repair' I did on the battery has held up for now, probably because it's being driven regularly - but it is staggering that a battery that showed under 3 volts has come back to that extent. I've got to lay the credit at the feet of the very clever guy who designed my pulse generator. Sadly, I can't find any reference to his business, so maybe folded, or given up. I have a new EFB battery to fit but I'm uncertain that the current charging regime it has for an AGM will not harm the new battery, so unless someone knows otherwise, I'll wait until I can recode it before I fit it.

I tend to use it.

Thanks very much for the link. Excellent. Just the answers I needed. 👍 To be perfectly candid, I have had more than my fair share of AGM problems, they are never as good as claimed and very vulnerable to deep discharge damage. That and heat damage from either an external source, or internally from heavy loading is their Achilles heel ........ as well as the price. They all seem to base the reason for fitting them on an AGM being capable of 30% more cycles - but they cost on average 30% more (like-for-like by manufacturer). Given that, my unfortunate experience and their well documented shortcomings, I'll stick with EFB, I think. Age will get my battery long before Start/Stop cycles. I do very little town driving. 😀

Well, by some miracle it seems to have achieved an at rest voltage (after two hours off charge) of 12.8 volts. I'm thinking it was the bespoke pulse charger that has helped it. The guy who built it was/is(?) an electronics wizard who built stuff for solar charging systems and aircraft batteries - but I can't find any reference to his business now. Apart from the usual alarm screeching at me 'til I cycled the locks, it started immediately. TPMS, ASR/ABS and one other (memory fail) lights stayed on, plus it warned Start/Stop was disabled. 25 metres down the drive twice put them all out, the TPMS was the last to go. MOT in the morning, so the charger is staying on there 'til it goes for that, then back on again until the new battery arrives - a Start/Stop capable Varta EFB. Just got to get it coded at some stage, sooner rather than later, if the rumours are correct.

No probs. The red bit is a snapped off one of two vent adapters that attached pipes that went out to atmosphere. It was the battery that was fitted when we bought the motorhome. The charger is OK and has been watched like a hawk ever since. There is a comprehensive display for battery capacity, voltage and charge/discharge current. The casing was fine before the bang and the casing of the new one is OK too. It was quite literally like a shotgun going off next to you when it exploded. I'm fairly certain it was an internal short igniting the gas. The new battery, a Yuasa, is fully sealed. No vents. Both the mains and solar chargers are IUoU profile.

Now up to 12.2 volts after being left off charge for 3 hours. Back on again, with the pulse unit. Here's hoping ........... The weather is really foul right now, so I'll leave it going until tomorrow morning and see what it gets up to, then try refitting it. Slightly off-topic and not to teach Granny to suck eggs: I've used and owned motorhomes for over 40 years and thought I knew a bit about batteries. We got a very unpleasant surprise recently when the habitation battery on our (relatively recently acquired) motorhome exploded - with a bang like a bomb had gone off. Fortunately it didn't catch fire but there was acid everywhere. It was a good quality, Varta proper leisure battery. I didn't know it's history, other than there had been electrical problems with the charging system that I cured. It appears that abuse in a previous life had damaged the battery and eventually it suffered an internal short. Hydrogen and oxygen, even in a fully sealed battery, make a good bomb! The only clue I ever got (hindsight is a wonderful thing) is that it dropped its voltage to 10+ volts for no real reason a couple of days before and it gave almost subliminal flashes of a high charge rate the next morning - so quick you said to yourself "Did I really see that?" I sourced a new battery intending to collect and fit it when we moved at the end of the week. It exploded the next day and blew the top clean off: even though it was strapped over the top and onto the floor with two 1" wide webbing straps - which it snapped. The photo doesn't do the carnage justice. I had to lift a 37Kg bucket of acid out from under a seat and get it outside without spilling any more.

Just a thought: Have you tried one of the pulse chargers? I've had considerable success with one, albeit made by an electronics wizard 15 years ago, rather than a £15 Chinese built clone. They do work - but must NOT be left connected too long. I've just checked it and by coincidence, it was showing 13.89 volts. Upon disconnecting the charger it settled spot on 12 volts after 10 minutes, although I suspect it would drop lower if left. The acid test (no pun intended) will come tomorrow morning when I put it back on the car and try and start it. If it's stuffed, the voltage will drop too far to be of any use when the key is turned and it sees the starter motor load. I think the same will apply to your caravan battery. As soon as it sees a serious load, it might object.