NJRJ

If tapping a blind hole (no exit wound) then flush hole with WD40/air for the last bits of swarf. Aluminium can 'gall' (bind on) a thread and loose steel swarf rusts easier than the metal it's cut into, both risking seizing the fastening.

On older cars it was Just the clutch plate dragging a bit, as long as it stopped instantly when you touched the tyre it's nothing to worry about. If both wheels had been up in the the air you'd usually find neither would spin as two wheels have enough inertia to resist the tiny amount of drag, however if both wheels span and are a bit reluctant to stop easily then the clutch needs checking/adjusting.

I think as long as the road is inspected as required, and repairs are done in the relevant timescale (who decides that though?) then any claim is likely to be refused, then dry daylight claims are always rejected as you can see and avoid any pothole, nighttime wet claims are refused as a full puddle shows well and shows a hole exists, nighttime dry claims are most likely to be accepted as visual clues to problemis less. Potholes have killed bikers and cyclists yet still the roads are beyond carp.

I think the problem is that the engine's now has been tweaked to make them cleaner to get near the fiddle achieved by the defeat device - obviously at the expense of performance...

Don't sweat it too much just put 3 x 25kg bags on each rear passenger seat, and in front passenger footwell (to imitate passengers). If you load the boot floor it's likely to buckle/distort under concentrated weight without a load spreading sheet of 3/4" plywood, and it'll look like a knackered old taxi/slammed street racer.

Indicated 75 isn't 75 though, 71-72 on GPS. Mrs took the photo, well about 30,and only one was any good! You probably just need a tractor engine to get similar figures...

Went for a drive yesterday, got this without trying...

So they look like traction spokes one side and braking spokes the other, though it would be madness to have them handed for each side of the car.

With helicoils you need to drill in at least 2.5 times the nominal diameter, that's 12mm for coil length (2xnominal) plus threading clearance - so at least 15mm, drill using about 6.25/6.3mm mm drill (supplied). Actually no harm in thread locking (if helicoils aren't self lock) but you'd have to clean the thread lock out of the coil before use. You can't just blow a 6mm clearance hole right through it and just put a nut on the back?

Decathlon bikes are actually fairly decent, halfords on the other hand sell some right tat.

The pale piece is covering the magnet I reckon, and is probably just a bit of metal with white double sided tape that's failed. So the white bit should be attached to the sunshade, just compare both bits of the shade to see what's missing?