NJRJ

No coding until you have the bits that need coding, the fridge wiring feed should be there, but it is down to the towball fitter to connect it up - some don't, so make sure you ask for 13 pin fully wired (or 7S fully wired).

It's a safety feature so you don't reverse onto a main road (well it should be 😉)

I had a rhythmic noise on the motorway last week, sounded like a rear wheel so I had a poke and a prod and found nothing, then 3 days later (next use) after a short drive the tyre pressure indicator advised I had a problem, and boy did I... That's an original Pirelli (wk 2217) seems it's a common problem with 'older' tyres, tread base cracking allowing water ingress, water causes delamintation and a blister that fails pretty soon after, and then the carcass is exposed and you get this.... Tyre dealer had dozens of tyres with tread failure - some 2yrs old with 8mm tread, Pirelli and Avon well over-represented in his pile of similar failures! Moral is that when you check your tyres (and I do) make sure you do it with a raised wheel, or roll car forward half a rev to ensure you can feel all the tyre. MOT/service in July, no advisories (but tread at 4-5mm so think of changing was all), I check inside and outside edges front and rear frequently, tyres were checked before we set off on this journey from chester to norfolk. Towing the caravan on the original journey might have got really interesting if we'd gone much further.

Don't know the answer to that but a VX maintenance technician once attempted to swap out my McGard bolts with another brand at a service so they must be good. Well the tech did swap them out, but as I mark service items I saw they weren't my bolts, so I got bolts back with a "sorry I must've put them on another car sir" but got an extra free service, the tech got his cards the following week after an investigation - but he went to a major high street chain straight away and retired not 9 months ago

2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thick, a 2032 is 20mm diameter and as you might now guess is 3.2mm thick, in theory a 2032 will last longer as it 28% thicker and therefore should have more capacity from increased internal volume - I would bank on it though! A good brand from a good supplier might be a better bet, but me I just change them as needed with any old battery.

Cable brakes are really poor from an efficiency point of view because as you realise most of the effort goes into bending the disc! Being the rear they don't do much (10-15%) so once you've got correct clearance, clean pads and discs it will take ages to wear out the pads, though adjustment might be every few weeks depending on mileage, (with (hydro) brakes I get 1 rear to 3-4 front pads on an acoustic road bike).

Just put the folder in a cloud account?

17's are much more comortable and more affordable than the bigger diameters, for posing and track days you'd want bigger for marginally better tyres, though for posing and track days much better cars are available 😁

MP3 in a car is fine, too much noise and other stuff going on for a better format to be of any real value, so unless you park up and listen with engine off in very quiet areas - but most people are doing other things in those circumstances 😉

Time the boot closure and also the dogs treat inhaling time, divide one into the other and supply relevant number of treats, or train the dog to sit when told.

Grand Aero's for me too, not using the F pads but will certainly look at them!

It's a colour thing I think, most piccies/colour swatches can't even get close to a car 'in the flesh' - though not even daylight can help the latest Landrover 🤢

Push the car in the first time if you need to, have thick foam on the end wall when you first do this, stop with about 75mm from end wall (sensors go 'solid tone' with enough room to walk between car/object, so you really need an assistant (that you trust! especially if manouerving without foam buffer) if the garage is tight for length. Once in, and garage door will close (and drivers door open!) you then need to put a tall chock against the wheels nearest the back wall (so roll back/over isn't a problem) and possibly even against the outside edge of passenger door side tyre if the width is a problem, fix them well - as it might not be you parking (no I'm not saying my wife's parking is crap 🤐 )

Check the spare wheel well for a puddle, not common in Skoda admittedly but in some cars (Focus estates I'm looking at you!). If you think a damp carpet causes condensation you should see what a wheel well full does to a car... (fungi that I wouldn't eat even with garlic butter)

Now that your idea is posted on the internet (forever) and despite it being "just for Sainsbury's" if you have an accident 'THEY' will obviously check t'internet about you, and also check that no Video In Motion is possible, and it is a routine check for VIM along with mobile phone records here in Merseyside - and I doubt Merseyside is ahead in this respect.

Well that's a tyre sellers take on the law and I think it says chains are OK anyway?

This law has been around for decades in France, at the bottom of any ski mountains will be a warning sign saying pneus de neige (snow tyres (with correct marking only)) and probably a little modifier sign below with chaines permis (chains ok) FR spelling might be wrong. Note that chains might still be needed with snow tyres too if it gets icy. Certainly the 3 Valleys and Paradiski says chains are OK but Chamonix is/was proper full on snow tyres when I was there. But as long as you do not pass the sign you are legal on ordinary tyres (but leave big gaps as summer tyres are scary in the cold), never go beyond the aire de chainage if the signs are out (usually from miles away on the overhead signs, locally at the biggest chain lay-by), going on without chains will get you stuck on just summer tyres (even with 4x4) and so you'll get a big fine, a towing fee and probably your car dumped in a random field in the furthest part of the valley - it's called the english field[1], other nationalities don't generally take the micky. If lots of cars are abandoned they end up in the same field but no recovery charges usually. Don't worry about putting chains on as it's just the same as when you tested fitting them on the drive [2] take a pair of marigolds too. Oh and most snow socks wear fast on half covered roads, and are just crap on ice. [1] all 4 UK nations and Eire [2] you must try them as you need to know they fit [3] [3] hire cars from Geneva are bad for wrong sizes!!

Is it a proper restart 'thing' or just the electric rack consuming some power when wheel is tweaked and car restarts with the increased electrical load??

You forgot working moderately well by abrading the tyre, but then the tube lets go with a massive bang, oh and a fair chance of red (or indeed brown 🤢 stuff) leaking!

No problem, you post much better stuff than me!

You missed my last sentence that says I report errors.

I've had many a ****nav suggest I drive the wrong way up a one way/restricted road, and that's with many flavours of satnav/car system. Indeed I live near a road that has changed twice, the first change being all but ignored, and becoming more dangerous (and it was poor already) but because of the motorists saying 'well my (out of date) ****nav says it's OK' and 'what no entry sign' it was swapped back - and so now locals are suffering again because of out of townies trying to park for free, saving all of a quid! I use satnav as a guide (as you clearly did) but really no amount of re-routing with an out of date map database can really work unless you've driven well away, to come in from another direction that does have a legal route. There is no way even waze can keep up with changes, and that's crowd sourced data - I think Waze only react quickly to speedcam and RTC's as that looks good. I do correct any map errors I see on OSM data when I see stuff that is wrong/new but that really does take time to filter through.

I've driven to the South of France, scores of times in the past, and was convinced the standard diesel in France was better than the standard diesel in UK. Not sure it has any difference in cetane rating but never actually checked!

Still the same to this day, the staff discounts aren't as good as they have been as they used to be just a fixed percentage (~25%), but changed to vary on model (Pre C19 anyway) of between 10-25% depending on size and availability. I had a new Astra through my brother ONCE - way too much hassle and a broker price was fairly close anyway(!?) but a 'managers car' is always way, way cheaper. Most employees/family/retired staff now seem to lease cars now and at very good rates for limited periods, 6 -12 months pre C19, but the cars have to go back in perfect nick or big penalties applied, local body shops/DPR places here near the Ellesmere Port plant fix chips for a fraction of the lease penalties (but still over the odds!). The employee/staff/retired discount cars are generally always sold on privately as the dealers offer very low trade-ins as they check the discount database, all the discounted lease cars obviously turn up as 'managers cars' or ex demonstrators.

At least you had the option of a refund!