Ben2019

Hi Had a similar issue to this a while back, have you checked your battery, I know it sounds mad but sometimes if the battery is faulty or not charged enough there is not enough voltage allowed by the car into the ancillary electric system, it tries but fails. Had the same thing happen to my fathers renault, a good off car charge and things worked ok. Maybe worth a try....

Hi Thanks for the information and part number. It good that there is a maxidot display pre facelift as I'd heard afterwards you'd need to change the fuel sender unit (apparently they changed the wiring). I'll definitely consider it.

Hi All, It seems that despite replacing my fuel sender unit and pump my ongoing issues may have been caused by a dodgy Instrument Cluster. No codes on vcds but its not showing correct fuel capacity in tank and the gauge is only dropping two bars from the top and sticking. So, I think its time for a change. Has anyone upgraded their instrument clusters and if so what units are compatible with a 2006 1.9pd model. I was wondering if a maxidot would fit from a Fabia mk2 or later facelift model roomster. Anyway over to you....

Hard to say, my instrument cluster has no faults showing yet the fuel gauge only drops two bars then sticks, only found that out after she cut out on me. vcds scan later showed less fuel than I'd put in. possibly a component fried somewhere. If the garage has disconnected your battery and reconnected it the wrong way when doing work / jump started it wrongly it can cause spike damage which can fry an ecu and damage instrument clusters. Might be an idea to have your dash checked for dodgy solder joints and at worst case scenario a change of instrument cluster.

Hi Try taking the battery out and fully charging it, then reconnect, that may solve it. Turn the ignition on before turning on your radio then it will re pair automatically, if that fails your radio code should be on a sticker or written in your service log book. Sometimes a low battery will cause it to go haywire for a bit.

Hi Loony, There is a fuse on the main panel in the drivers side, Its a possible cause but then again it could be the switch on the passengers door, if the window can be opened using the drivers side switch panel then I wouldn't think its a door wiring loom problem as power is getting through ok. If working with drivers switch then it also rules out motor problems. I'd check the fuse and switch out first (easier to do) . Have you tried to reset the window system, using the drivers key? Regards Ben

Hi, Sounds like you have a dodgy wire in your door loom, my roomster has the same problem although its behaving itself at the moment sometimes none of the windows will work. Take a look at the door connection, look for any loose pins or frayed or broken cables (beware sometime the rubber coating looks normal with the break inside) Skoda skimped on earlier roomsters and made the door loom tight, With years of opening and closing the drivers door it can lead to breaks or intermittent problems. With regards your Brown cable, if it was under the carpet in the rear beneath the passenger seat drivers side, it may well be from your fuel pump / fuel gauge sender unit. Regards Ben

Hi My car is a 2006 1.9tdi pd. I've already checked the ecu with vcds, Uwe from Ross Tech explained how to do it. The result said the immobiliser is disabled. I only cottoned on to the immobiliser being disabled when I tried one of the spare keys and despite starting the car the immo light keeps flashing (it doesn't happen with the original key) I'm not sure what the locksmith did to the car, all I know is it will not accept the cluster pin when entered any more.

Hi I recently had my ECU given a virgin instal and everything was going fine, I had a locksmith come out to pair two new keys to the car, he managed to do the immobiliser chips (or so I thought) but not the central locking (faulty radio chips in keys). I've replaced the radio bits with genuine parts and got them working. But... Whenever I use the spare key, it starts the car ok but the immobiliser light keeps flashing, This got me puzzled so I've checked this out via VCDS and the Ross Tech forum and found that the nice locksmith did'nt program the chips but his machine defeated the immobiliser. Needless to say I'm not happy as this has invalidated my insurance. Is there a way to un-defeat the immobiliser and get it working again as it should?

Have tried contacting them via email with queries but they don't bother to answer (even their parts dept). I guess they want to get your car in so they can charge you to look at it.

That's really good news. I've put a few dehumidifier bags in the car to dry it out as it feels damp but that could be the weather. I'm still trying to get my car sorted out, only have the spare key remotes to match and the electric windows to sort out. Thankfully the EGR light has finally gone out, I used a can of Wynns to clean it then gave it a good in situ clean by hand. I did try something on the audi forums to get it to go out (taking the instrument cluster fuse out and putting it back in) but it only caused the airbag light to come on. I did upgrade the battery to a Varta with greater amperage, best thing i've done to date as it starts with no hesitation even when cold (its been between 2 and 3 degrees here of late) so that's a bonus. The first problem with the keys is a good lesson. Never buy the cheap chinese ones from ebay. The ones I got new turned out to have faulty transmitters, they cycled up and down frequencies not just transmitting on one. In the end I bought two second hand skoda keys with the same transmitter part number, turned out cheaper as well, all you need do is replace the transponder chip and blade. I'm definitely going to invest in vcds at some point, it'll give me a heads up before its MOT.

This is an old post but I have the same problem with my Roomster, after a flat battery the gauge works in reverse. Do not pull the fuse for the instrument cluster, it will not do anything except give you a nice new warning light from the airbag system as well as the egr light and empty fuel light when the tank is full. The issue is most likely a faulty sender unit (worn out with age) or shorted out wire (wire shorting on chassis somewhere)

Hi, I have one original key which works, two generic replacement keys which were cut and programmed to be accepted by the immobiliser so they will start the car but the transmitter needs to be tweaked to do the central locking. The locksmith told me it was the correct type of key but apparently he needs to do something to get the buttons to be recognised. The virgin software enabled the ECU to pair with the immobiliser as if it was new from the factory, it learned the instrument cluster codes when connected and the ignition was turned on. The immobiliser light is now behaving normally and go's out when the key is turned in the ignition. Have found out where two out of the four loose screws I found go and have a suspicion where the other two go. The last mechanic to work on it before me must have had an off day because the comfort unit is skewed in its mounting bracket. It looks like someone just shoved it in there. Unfortunately one of the securing tabs broke off when they did this. It might account for the windows not working so have to check it out along with a few other possibilities. I'm definitely learning more about the Roomsters build everyday.

OK BIG step forward today! Yesterday I had a really nice guy from Gelautomotive came out to pair the ECU and Instrument Cluster, The ECU just didn't want to play ball, we tried both ECU's, confirmed that the one the seller had said was the original wasn't and that ECUTesting didnt do such a good job of testing it. (I'd asked them to confirm the vin no in the ECU matched mine, they said it did, we found out yesterday it didn't) In short after a couple of hours out in the dark, the ECU was not communicating, so both ECU's went off to have the details from the other original swapped to the replacement 'original'. Was told it would be a couple of days but I had a really great surprise this morning when they rang and said its done and they would be out by 12 to fix it in. Turns out the original ECU that came with the car was a brick, totally fried, no data could be got from it. They managed to get a virgin software that programs the ECU as if it was brand new and reflashed that into the ECU replacing the corrupt files. ECU fitted to car, key in the ignition and the engine started. Immobiliser didnt kick in! Problem solved I have a running Roomster! I cannot recommend Gelautomotive enough, they came out to me even though I was out of their normal area. They really pulled out all the stops to solve the problem and got me back on the road. They got the replacement keys to be recognised by the immobiliser and start the car but we needed to get the locksmith is coming out again to reprogram the key fobs to the central locking frequency. My only jobs now are to get the electric windows working now and the rear wash wiper sprayer, may be a quick fix but not sure.

Well, I'm lucky as I said at the start my car is a 2006, The locksmith had two machines with him one was an Advanced Diagnostics top end model which read the cluster pin code (impressive bit of kit). He checked with Hinkleys over the phone and they advised using Vag.Com commander to get it sorted out which he did not have in the van. (unfortunately most locksmiths tend to use industry made locksmith tools and not automotive tuning and diagnostic tools). I have the pin from the cluster and have contacted Skoda for the pin codes from when the car was made, as it was one of their garages that sold me the car I don't think they will quibble about supplying them. Also approached them to quote for reprogramming using their system in case there is nobody local who can do it. Just a question of wait and see.

Thanks for the info, OUCH! I foresee a very big SKODA dealers bill if that's the case. I did a bit of research myself and hopefully if correct VAG-Tacho and VCDS should be able to sort it out failing that VAG.Commander via a K link. There is a video on YouTube by Ross Tech which covers swapping ECU's and Instrument Clusters so should be the same thing only one sided. Will have to see what I can find out.

OK, Just a quick update, have some mobile mechanics to search for... My local tech guy sent his friend out to deal with my car, Nice chap but he couldn't solve it. He hadn't been told what I'd told the Tech Guy and assumed it was just to program the three keys back in. He did however try his best to work round it, obtained the code from the instrument cluster, which was promptly rejected by the instrument cluster when we tried to program the keys in. We have confirmed my suspicion that the ECU and Instrument cluster need to be paired. He didn't have Vag.Com just his locksmith tools in the van so couldn't do it. £175 paid for call out and checking, he said he'll come back to do the keys once the pairing has been done. Just need to find someone who can program it on the cheap in Newmarket area. :-)

HI I've now got a tech guy hopefully booked to deal with it, so fingers crossed. The coil light does flash but I think that its lit because the immobiliser has activated (same as the other lights) and its impeding its ability to work. Will find out once a diagnostic is done.

Hi, Just had the ECU back, wrestled with the engine bay getting it all reassembled, those spring clips on the air hoses are murder! Got in the driving seat, key in ignition and as expected, engine turned over but immediately cut out. Have included a pic of instrument cluster which shows lights on.

I was browsing through youtube and came across a video where someone was using VAG- COMMANDER to read the pin from their instrument cluster, Maybe this might work?

Ahah! Thanks Bunsen, you may have solved where those three extra screws I had found have come from and why I have the polystyrene cover out in the car.

Hi Bunsen, Was responding to an earlier post when your's came in. so thread is looking a bit disjointed. Thanks for the heads up regarding the door electrics and water ingress, I had to fix my dads Renault Megane (sorry if mentioning another car make offends anyone!) which had a similar problem. Will definitely take a look as soon as possible.

Hi, Just checking, is your instrument cluster the one pictured in your thread under the Fabia section? If so it's totally different to my one. I've looked around online and yes an auto locksmith or Auto electrician with the correct kit can pull the pin numbers from the instrument cluster if they couldn't you would not be able to code new keys to the car. Also got this from the guy at Skoda who I bought it from. To say that not even the dealer can get the codes is kind of silly, of course they have the codes, they needed them to set the car up in the first place, imagine if a car needed a new ECU or ignition key assembly how would they be able to set it up? Mind you I may look silly with egg on my face should the opposite be true. It may take some time and flattery but armed with your vin number and the SKC number off the back of the unit they should be able to help. I just fired an email off to Skoda UK a few moments ago asking them for their assistance in obtaining the codes. Will see what the tech guy says, but may have to wait until next week for a free slot.

Hi Am getting the ecu back tomorrow, will give it a go then if it still is a start stop fault i'll give the local tech guy a call. There was a vid on youtube showing the VAG-Tacho being used to pull the code from an instrument cluster, think they were doing it to a golf but its part of the VAG group so it might work with Skoda's.

Hi Thanks for the information, Think it may be the instrument cluster not linked to the ECU. The company I sent the ECU to contacted me yesterday to say it's all ok, no damage or software issues so will be sending it back soon. I can only wait till it arrives back then get a local tech guy / vehicle locksmith out to get the pin codes from the cluster and pair them all up correctly. From the state of the car when it arrived here I think they were told just leave it so put things back together so hurriedly I've got three trim screws and an under dash polystyrene cover which I've got to figure out where they came from and how to fit them back, also a broken screw mounting tab (which is slightly worrying). I'm considering getting a cable and software to have a go at it if all else fails (it'll be fun learning). Thinking of VCDS and VAG-Tacho which from reading online may be what's needed to find the instrument cluster code and program it all up.