AndreasTornqvist

Hi Gilliehead, If you study the striker plate (the part in the chassi), there is a metal rod that the bootlid locks on to. If you press it, you should be able to push it down with your thumb, and it should spring back when you lift the thumb. The car normally pulls this down after the electric motors have registered that they have pulled all the way down. This doesn't happen either because the motors aren't running, or the sensor cables are broken. To lock the metal rod in locked position, you need to remove the cover to access the striker plate. After this is removed, you should be able to remove the striker plate. Now you can manually pull the metal rod down. Find a 12V source (e.g. a car battery) and apply to the two pins for positive and ground. You may have to try around to find which are which. After the metal rod is pulled all the way back, reinstall the striker plate without pluging it back in. That should be it

Actually, this was an error by me, as I tightened the lock to the degree that I have to shut the lid quite hard to close it. When it is closed all the way down, it is registered as closed. Ergo, just unplugging the striker plate works fine.

Hi everyone, I did the replacement yesterday, and put in gas struts. I opened the electric struts trying to figure out what was wrong but without success. A couple of wires needed soldering back together, but when I put it together they wouldn't move, not even forcibly as before. I gave up, thinking this was not a long term solution anyway, as they could break down any day again. Regarding the lock, it did not suck close after the lid shut. I could however apply 12v to the lock manually to suck it closed and then disconnect the wire. The car does however thing the lid is open. Either the lock sensors or the strut sensors need to be by-passed.

I haven't yet, no. I'm planning on just changing the struts and then see what else need fixing. Did your struts stop working at different times? For me, the lid first only opened half-way, then a couple of days later it stopped working entirely. That's apparently how it "should" be like when the motors stop working. If both stop working simultaneously, the error could be somewhere else

Hi all, I've got a 2011 Superb estate with an electric bootlid. The bootlid motors have now failed and I've decided to replace them with normal gas struts. However, when I close the lid forcibly (since the motors aren't running), the lid doesn't lock all the way down and the whirring from the locking mechanism doesn't sound. It cannot open without pressing the opening button, but there is a glitch as it isn't locked tight. My question is now this. If I replace the motors with the gas struts, how do I deal with the bootlid lock? Is there an electric by-pass, or do I need to replace the lock as well?