Lord_Lucan

Hi, how did you manage to remove the soundproofing in the end? Were you able to remove the rubber grommit once the soundproofing was out of the way?

Further update: 26/01/2024: So I removed the OSF door loom where it goes into the car body as shown in the pictures and have discovered 2 broken wires so far. Yellow and Blue stripe wire Purple and Green stripe wire There may be others too but I can't remove the grommit which goes into the door as shown in the picture with the arrow. Anyone know how to do this as I attempted it but I'm worried I'll destoy the rubber as it's a 10 year old car so it's not as supple as it once was. Any help would be appreciated.

Further further update: The car did the 'Key not found' thing again today without any prior warning that it's battery may be low. Luckily it started and I got home with the kids in tow but it's really ****ed me off. The fob has had a new duracell lithium cr2032 battery all of 2 months ago. The car has had a new battery at the same time. I tried the spare key when I got home and it worked fine so I'm going to have to start using that as my day to day. But my concern is that if something were to happen to it then I'd only have an iffy one to rely on. I'm planning on doing a few motorway trips over Xmas and NY and I guess I'll have to take both the main key I'm currently using and the spare along with me, as well as a few spare cr2032 batteries! Is there such a thing as a parasitic drain on a key fob which could be causing the issue?

Further update: Diagnosed by RAC as a dead battery so new one being fitted tomorrow. I politely declined the tech's offer to fit one for £250! Even Helfrauds came in at £110 with a 5 year guarantee so that's saying something. He checked the alternator output and it tested fine he said. Not sure why the battery gave up with no prior hard-starts or any symptoms but that's cars for you I suppose. A quick question: since the new battery the keyless entry has stopped i.e. I could walk up to the car and as long I had the key on me, the door would unlock by pulilng the handle. How do I reinstate this feature as it's very useful? Is there a way to re-activiate it? Thanks in advance

I understand that was his personal preference so I didn't ask him to do it if he was uncomfortable but the RAC guy literally blipped his and it worked. Yes he had more cranking power (not the correct term I know) but it worked instantly.

I thought that too but I guess it's another example of these cars behaving oddly when it's unhappy with the main car battery. Over the years I've heard many a tale of all manner of sensors flashing up on the dashboard when it was in fact the battery all along. Jump-starting was fun in a car park. One person outright refused to help, another person said yes but then refused to let me connect the cables to my own car and the final guy was ok but refused to rev his car even slightly get the revs up when I was about to push the button. I don't think that helped and I was rushing to get the car running before the car park closed at 10pm...

Further update: Diagnosed by RAC as a dead battery so new one being fitted tomorrow. I politely declined the tech's offer to fit one for £250! Even Helfrauds came in at £110 with a 5 year guarantee so that's saying something. He checked the alternator output and it tested fine he said. Not sure why the battery gave up with no prior hard-starts or any symptoms but that's cars for you I suppose. Thanks all.

Spare key didn't work either so currently awaiting RAC to attend. Car has already spent 1 night in the car park...knowing my luck it's about to spend a second night there too

Help please. My 13 plate elegance has refused to recognise the key fob. I tried replacing the CR2032 battery but still no joy. Any ideas what else I can try before calling out the AA? We also tried jumpstarting from a donor car as a last ditch desperate attempt but it doesn't recognise the key. i.e. I am planning on trying the spare key tomorrow but for now the car is locked in an underground car park for the night. No low key battery warnings or anything in the lead up. It's just given up with no indication it was on it's way out. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hi @TeamTaylor, how did you get on with this fix? I ask as I'm 99% sure I have the same issue on the same door and in the same circumstances (tried to use the window in the recent frost/ice) and I think I'd wrecked the regulator too. Thanks in advance

UPDATE: I have found some fixes and so this thread might be useful to others in the future. So for the persistent power supply and resulting persistent bluetooth connection issue: there is a small black connector as part of the canbus box which has an orange and red wire attached. This needs to be disconnected to stop this issue. You can check this by the unit powering down the second the car door is opened. Steering wheel controls become active once the car is running, not when it's off but with the ignition on. No coding required or additional modules, the Xtrons works with the car from factory. I have noticed one quirk though: when selecting the next track from the steering wheel it skips 2 tracks instead of 1. Screen being too bright at night: You need to wire the illum wire from the back of the unit to the orange wire from the quadlock harness. In the image attached which I got from Xtrons support you can see the illum wire as number (11) and the orange quadlock wire is A14. if this doesn't work then as a backup option you can download a free app named "Night Screen" onto the headunit itself and it provides a master brightness control which is really simple to use. I'm probably going to keep the app installed just in case I need it extra bright in summer/ direct sunlight. Bypass the video/handbrake lock: I'll leave you to decide whether you want to do this or not, entirely at your risk. On this unit you connect/splice wire number 5 (brake-in) into the ground wire number A12. There is also a setting under car infotainment>video: disable video in motion: set this to off. I think that's all the info so use with caution if you're reading this but the above worked on my 2013 Mk2 Superb which previously had a Columbus unit fitted.

Hi, yes I'm pretty sure the Columbus could be powered on with thr ignition off, if needed but I never used this. Also it never repeatedly tried to connect to my phone even hours after being parked. I had to switch Bluetooth on my phone to off to stop getting the prompts to pair

Hi all, I took the plunge and bought an Xtrons PSA92MVTLS andrond head unit to replace the cokumbus unit in my 2013 mk2 superb elegance and have a few questions if I may. I've fitted the unit but for the life of me I can't remember if the columbus had a perm live so it could be used with the ignition off. The Xtrons appears to be pre-wired in it's loom to allow this and I'm being paranoid in thinking it might cause battery drain. I do switch the unit off when exiting the car but it'll be my luck that the kids don't and I end up with a flat battery. Also steering wheel controls don't seem to be working so I presume I need to buy an interface/harness of some description. Can anyone recommend a suitable one please? My steering wheel has the scrolling volume control and fwd and bkwd buttons on the left hand side and the phone controls and MFD up/down buttons on the right hand side if it helps. I can upload a pic if required. Other than that, first impressions are quite good. The androind auto seems to fire up quite quickly and Waze/Google Maps etc seem to work well on it. As does Spotify come to think of it. Thanks in advance

Hi All, Sorry to bump a thread from the dead but I have had the same backing plate failure on my 2013 Octavia III. I've ordered the parts from Skoda as I didn't want the head-ache of the variants listed on the internet. Does the disc need to come off to fit the replacements? I think it might need to but if anyone can confirm that would make it quicker for me to fetch the right tools when I fit this coming weekend. Many thanks.