bimma123

Thanks mate, yes it appeared to be EGR was sticking open and causing car to cut off/stall and then not start. I bought an EGR simulator kit off ebay with a blanking plate, fitted it to effectively delete the EGR (without map so the simulator still tricks car into thinking EGR present and working ) so far so good

Yep...id rather be safe than sorry too lol well it arrived today and just fitted it. quite easy to do 1) remove the engine cover 2) undo the clamp on the big air pipe. undo the jubilee clip on the air pipe (turbo end) and remove it. the Little breather pipe was a bit tricky to get off by squeezing the clip and i ended up breaking the clip when i pulled it off lol but it should still hold? (pic attached) i used a torch and long screw driver to see the plug for the egr connector it was covered in dirt and i couldnt find it at first but picture shows it in red circle once it was removed it was easy to connect the simulator..1) plug into the EGR connector (leaving the egr disconnected of course) 1 plug of the simulator into the MAF and the other into the car ECU connector for the MAF and re fit pipes etc re scanned codes and nothing present so i will drive it today to work in a bit hopefully makes it lol and update after a couple days EMU 11 EN (1).pdf

J.R yes that makes sense, you're probably right. i just didnt want to carry on driving it, the engine light comes on /limp mode so dpf wont re gen and then get a dpf blockage which might not then clear it self if the car wont go into re gen mode so i played it safe by ordering that part

ok, i see, but i think surely it cant be as easy as blocking the egr pipe like i did (with a better plug lol), unplugging the EGR side and leaving it unplugged as the ECU would read something is missing and throw the light up straight away. when my part arrives...i will unplug the EGR first...start the car as it is and see if it throws EML... hopefully should arrive in the morning.. I have drove it up and down my street few times sunday. no light and not in limp mode but i think it will eventually come on

Ordered part yesterday off ebay £122 posted. Waiting for delivery started car today, had a slight judder at one point but revs balanced out. plugged it in and had the P0401 code with is EGR related but no engine light J.R when you say cost you £99 for nothing....have you tried this simulator and it didnt work for you? im covered by paypal for it worst case

you may be right, i will scan the car again to see if there is a fault code present...or maybe its programmed to come on after certain time/distance of driving with that fault... either way i will be ordering that simulator as it seems to be the most cost effective fix and another forum member PipH has confirmed that they had same egr issues on a tiguan and this resolved it so tried and tested

J.R cheers. yes i think i will be ordering that simulator the cars aready had the emission fix recall work (no idea what they done to it) so looks like this is my most cost effective option i have drove it up and down the road a few times no engine light yet but im guessing it will appear soon so i wont be driving it far like this. hopefully the simulator arrives this week

thanks

Piph is it not this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-EGR-AGR-Emulator-Simulator-Plate-for-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-2-0-TDI-CR-II-Euro-5/183869556154?hash=item2acf7ac5ba:g:OaAAAOSw-DRdHK14 as the one you linked also blanks off the metal pipe?

hi PipH, yes you recommended this back in september when i had a similar issue...my car started that time and ran fine...started having issues again..replaced the throttle body recenty. clonked out on me yesterday again. will be ordering that simulator thank you

It all points towards the EGR sticking open as someone replied to my one of my older threads saying the EGR stuck open would cause the car to cut out and not start ive had the emissions recall done back in may 2017 i think if thats the one you mean...i am not aware of any others i am going out to brave driving it up and down my street couple of times and see what happens ..wish me luck lol but i am leaning towards ordering that EGR similar that another member recommended which they used on their tiguan with the same cffb engine

this happened to me twice now...i have done the 180 degree rotation and cleaned the throttle body...happened again so i bought a used throtte body off ebay..cleaned that. worked fine for 6 weeks or so car cut out again yestderday..RAC couldnt get it running ...said it was compression issue but i did the makeshift d.i.y EGR blank plate using a coke can made 3 layers of it...got the car running with a squirt of easy start So am i right in saying the EGR keeps randony getting stuck open and is it not good to drive the car with that plate in place? what will happen ? i was pointed towards an EGR simulator kit by a member on here for approx £120 which gives a blanking plate and the simulator plugs into the car to make it think its still there and working...rather than map it out i guess..would this be a better soltion?

yes thanks...just saw this message. i did exactly the above...cleaned by throtte body rotated the valve but still had the issue...i ordered a replacement used unit off ebay. cleaned it up and worked ok for about 6 weeks (the plastic teeth in the motor must have been chewed causing it to stick any way...my car cloncked out on my randonly yesterday and as mentioned in my other thread...RAC couldnt get it running..towed me home but i managed to get it started by making a di.y egr blank plate and fitting it

Right guys quick update.... went out...made a d.i.y egr blank plate using a old coke can...cut rough shape using the gasket for the pipe as guide.made holes for screws. made 3 layers just to be safe/stronger put it in place as marked above where that metal pipe meets engine litte spray of easy start and it fired up. no knocking or anything, ran it on drive 5 mins or so. switched it off....and it started again off its own power...no easy start so basicaly the RAC guy mis diagnosed it....seems to be the egr was stuck open...causing the exhaust cases to flow and low compression.. my question is.... can i drive car like this or not. no engine light one (yet) ran my cheap obd scanner p2100 code was on there but i think thats to do with the RAC guy manually testing the throttle sensor etc so whats next...egr delete or someone mentioned on my thread last time that EGR simulator kit off ebay £120 odd quid..basically blank the egr off as i have and then plug in the simulator to make the car think the egr is working as normal

thanks guys. up early so will give it a go in a bit and update chimaera...sorry for sounding dumb but to rotate it...clockwise right? and can i remove the cambelt cover easily without removing anything ? yesterday i managed to pull it back by undoing the two clips i could see at the top and saw the belt was on there and managed to prod it with my finger just to make sure it was slack and wasnt the remains of the belt. Cambelt and water pump was done at 76k now on 133k miles i will also attempt to make a temporary egr blank plate with a tin can or some thin metal and put it as shown in pic below because i have read if the egr is stuck open it wont start can someone tell me which pipe i remove to test fuel pressure on the left of engine where iv put a red mark please or is it not fuel related as it woud have started with easy start thanks for advise again

Right guys so after my last post...where i had starting issues after the car clonked out i replaced the throttle body (anti shudder vave with a used item) and also rotated the egr inlet valve 180 degrees. car been running fine ever since...started first time every time. no warning lights nothing at all for about 4/5 weeks roughly until today....stopped at a zebra crossing to giveway. Car chocked/revs went down so i tried to rev it...no response and it clonked out tried re starting it...just cranks nothing else tried easy start...nothing ...almost started at one point but made a bit of a knocking noise and cut out straight away called RAC out who eventually arrived 3 hrs later!! ... he tied easy start too..nothing he tried to remove the small metal pipe coming from the egr to the inlet whilst cranking it (said if the throttle was stuck closed that would get it running? plugged in a diagnostic nothing showing at all he tested the fuel pump under rear seat and i heard it come one buzzed so ruled that out pulled cambelt cover off.cambelt was there intact but he said it was turning over a little fast ...but exact same symptoms as last time...only difference last time i got it started with easy start eventually he said it sounded like compression.....and said there was also another chain connecting the two cams on this engine and that could have gone? or is it that the egr is stuck open again and he didnt know? i sort of trusted his knowledge and went with what he said...i did say to him that the last time i broke down last september the RAC bloke said the egr was stuck open but he ruled it out dont know how got car towed home now...looking for ideas to try before giving it to a garage please any suggestions ,,,i really hope its not the engine cant afford to replace or rebuild....just not worth it

replaced throttle body with a used item from ebay matching part number was only £18 on a discount offer so cheap, i cleaned up and fitted it rotated the valve 180 degrees and re fitted started fine off its own power and took it for a drive, car running fine so far will try and open the casing off the old throttle body and see if i can see anything obvious inside

thanks for the input guys. i will be rotating the valve 180 on the weekend, just wanted to make sure it was ok to do it as its first ive heard of it. Quite easy to do, just remove the metal pipe, and two bolts to undo it . remove and use a grinder to make that little notch on the opposite side so it sits flush. and put it back together. i have ordered a replacement used throttle off ebay and will clean that up and fit it see if theres any difference in the noise etc i will also buy a bottle of egr/dpf cleaning fuel additive and stick it in the tank and take on a motorway run to clear things up. I did try to remove the back cover off the throttle body housing to look at the gears but once i removed the torx screws it was sealed on so didnt want to break it. now that iv got a replacement i will take it off and have a look if theres any damage as for the carbon build up, i didnt look but the hole where the little valve goes in was quite gunked up . but its expected as i olny do approx 7k miles a year and probably been on the motorway 6/7 times in 4 years of ownership...i know its not ideal but its just i dont really have a need to go on the motorway. car started again fine this morning. i was planning on driving it to work but as i reversed off the drive, it had a very little sputter and was ok again but i lost my nerve and left it in case i broke down on the way. so maybe as one of you said the teeth could be worn on that motor

thanks guys just quick update so removed the throttle aka anti shudder valve from front i noticed that if i pushed it closed i.e so no air gets through) it was sometimes springing back open and other times would get stuck so i cleaned it with egr cleaner scraping away all bits and even the edges of the spingle. i also cleaned the little valve the metal pipe attaches to i plugged it back into the car without bolting it up, started the car and saw that when i went to turn car off....it closed and then returned to open position so was working put it all back together, car started off its own power(no easy start needed), took it for a 4/5 miles dual carriageway run and it ran fine, accelerated fine, no hesitation and didnt clonk out...last time it clonked out on me within 500 yards so looks to be solved. my dpf light came on, but i suspected that was due to me trying to start it all those time on the drive with easy start . and i also sprayed some egr cleaner through the air inlet so some gunk must have come loose. The dpf light was off next time i started the car. from what i have read, this throttle /anti shudder valve not only closes to shut of the engine but also regulated air pressure some how i will update if issue returns one thing i have noticed though is that before...i used to turn my ignition on...and i could hear a churping sound from engine as if though something was turning on for a few seconds (like systems waking up) i no longer get that sound? any ideas what that sound relates to? i used the following video for guidance although i havent done the preventative fix yet where he turns the valve other way around is the rotation of the valve 180 as in this video a good idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZojKRL3IoY

hi guys had some issues with my car starting. been looking at ruling out a few things took of my throttle body to clean it i noticed it gets stuck in closed position...so will clean it out but i tried to test it off the car by plugging it into car connector turn ignition on nothing happens started car , and revved it...looked at the flap and nothing...i thought it would be moving when i rev it but nothing does that mean the throttle is faulty?....is there a fuse related to this i can check?

hi guys need some help if anyone has experienced similar car is a 2012 superb 2.0 tdi Cffb engine done 132000 miles so yesterday morning 5am started car to go work, (first turn as always) and went to drive off. got to the bottom of my rd (5o yards) car splutters , no response from throttle when pressed and cuts off. would not start up again, only cranking no warning lights on dash so cant read any codes with my hand held (all car) scanners) so pushed it to parking spot on side. came back few hours later from work. put jump leads on it and cranked it...still not firing up. sprayed some easy start in air intake and after cranking 10 secs or so it fired up no problem drove it up and down road no issues. switched it off too, started back up again first time. even went and bought some EGR spray clear and sprayed it into the air intake left it parked for 4 hrs or so...went to start it again this evening approx 8pm. started up but i saw it was about to cut off so went to rev it and again went dead. same again, cranks but not firing i posted on a thread a few months back that a similar thing happened after i removed some fuses to check but i thought it was fuse related details in that thread, (rac man said my egr was faulty or stuck ) but next day it started and since then car was running fine no issues. any ideas please? no throttle response mean the throttle body clogged up causing it to stick/choke and cut out or its it the dreaded egr

piph. ok will give it a go if it happens again. but is there any way of even seing the egr at the back of the engine..the RAC guy said its just right of the dpf and low down so very difficult to access. but if i can get in there with a long wheel brace to hit it then thats a good thing to get me going again if stranded. But will get the emulator when it happens again thanks for the tips

pipH Thanks. i will see if this problem repeats and will definately go for the above solution

PipH, sounds good. did he have to get this bypass professionally fitted or was it a d.i.y? as the pics indicate removing the plugs and plugging in the emulator to give the car the impression of a fully functioning EGR being present. but there are two plates in the picture? what are they for as the emulator is just the electronic device

chimaera. The guy who quoted £350 for egr delete, and dpf delete said it would be mapped out too . ive known him 20+ years so can be trusted he does this proffesionally. He quoted £150 labour to remove and replace an EGR. but he advised not getting a used one and for the cost of a new one off euro carparts £250+_with discount he said the delete was a better long term solution. its all down to local city driving i guess. i do 5 miles to work daily and 9 miles once a week the rest are all short 1/2 mile trips. and as weather is getting colder, the car will take longer to warm up for now its running fine. ive added the Forte cleaner additive to fuel.. i saw this thread and was wandering if the poster had found the issue and if mine was caused due to the fuse or random fault