3T51704x4

My money is on a wheel speed sensor. I've done three in the last week exact same lights (other than the bulb out that is) , two yeti's and a Transporter T6, but only way to be 100% sure is to scan it to see which one. THEN check wiring for open or short to positive/negative or each other. Clean the bearing seal tone ring (if it is that type) or the segmented ring of debris/rust. then change sensor. If you look in word 03 MVB's you can watch the four sensor wheel speeds and compare. You could scope it if you have Picoscope or similar or just fire the parts cannon. Choice is yours.

What is up with the old unit?

The fan normally comes on when the A/C is on to cool the condenser. Try turning it off and see if the fan stops. It can also be commanded on if a fault is logged in word 01. DPF will not regenerate until the exhaust gas temperature sensors start to read above a few hundred degrees C, with an engine check light on, with fuel below around 1/4 tank or accelerating hard. If you have low usable charge in your battery, it can jack the idle speed up, like the others have suggested, check the owners manual for detailed info. To see if the battery is low (as the car sees it) Check in word 61 for early cars and word 19 for later cars. Look in live data (measured value blocks) you will fine usable charge in Ah. Compare that to the rated Ah printed on the battery to see how much capacity you have in reserve. It is also possible to see the current the battery is taking to charge. A flat battery taking only 1 or 2 amps is worn out. A flat battery taking 30A and above is healthy, lots more useful info in there. Anyway I use a piggy back device connected to the gateway to get my cars basic engine info in the DIS, some of the pages shown in the images below.

Look at the measured values for the coolant temperature in the dash (word 17) and the engine ecu (word 01) to see if they match and are plausible. Also look at radiator outlet temperature. Then if they are OK, I would check the R134a fill level in the system. Low gas pressure can cause that too. You may be able to see the pressure in the A/C MVBs if it is late enough. I have a charging machine at home so I would pull out the gas and measure what came out. Think it should be 550g if my memory serves. Obviously that is the only way to know if it still has a full charge. If it is low, it then needs a Nitrogen leak test. Don't just fill it with a Halfords special. G62 is usually down the side of the head near the battery but ages since Ive done one. More likely to be chafed wire or green crusties causing the problem. look for the pastic water pipes with a grey bodied sensor. Change the O ring and clip to avoid disappointment later on ;-)

Blackvue front and rear camera with hotspot for 24/7 always on remote monitoring. Inc Blackvue lithium battery pack connected to aux battery in boot to isolate the starter battery in the engine bay. Retrofit genuine battery in the boot (as in the V6 3.6 version) with DC to DC charger with genuine 3.6 boot trim with battery logo and pyrotechnic shut off fuse box. Measured value info direct into DIS with gateway interface. Can read power, torque, battery voltage, alternator load, EGTS temperatures, Soot Loading of DPF etc etc. Retrofit OEM removable towbar and full electrics on 13 pin plug which allows charge input from Victron 30A mains charger by plugging into the towing socket. Keeps all batteries charged if left for long periods. Spring Assist inside rear coil springs.

If you get the screen out without damage, the rest would be fairly straightforward as you have everything you need on the donor car. Some minor VCDS code changes would get it working. I retrofitted a Swedish spec Passat front screen in my 4 motion Passat back in 2003. TPS had five of them brand new in their old stock thick with dust and sold them off for £62 each I was gonna buy a spare, but they went too quickly.

Hi, it is to stop you putting the negative on the negative battery post, (look at the messaging closely, shows NOT to place the jump lead at the battery post) bypassing the battery manager. By using the provided body earth, the current being introduced goes through the battery manager (we call it word 61) later cars has it as a slave to the gateway (word 19). Lots of very useful battery info in the measured value blocks if you know what to look for. Changed a few of these units where they fail if it gets spiked. communicates via LIN Bus.

Strange and very specific request to any old network techs (VWG) for the base brand and utility software discs from version 6 to rebuild my old vintage VAS 5051A diagnostic machine. I have been looking around for a while but nothing available, probably due to workshops having to bin them for the group HSO audit. Anyway if you have some kicking around your toolbox let me know. I have the discs for my VAS 5052A and the VAS 6150E is updated online now, but the old software is difficult to get hold of now. Thanks.

Think I remember seeing something for water getting into the control unit plug along time ago with similar results. Got a reg or VIN (PM) will look up on Alldata.

What you need to do is to turn off the diagnostic fishing or bias voltage with a good coding device. So called CAN BUS which the internet like to say is the cause of the warning lights. It is NOT a CAN Bus issue. You do not have twisted pair of can high or low going to the bulbs or a LIN connection. What happens is J519 (also known as the BCM} sends out a small voltage across the bulb filament to check the circuit is intact. If the circuit is open, it will turn the bulb out warning light on. You can see this voltage when fitting LED replacements as they will flicker for a few seconds then turn off which can not usually be seen when a normal bulb is fitted. By using resistors, you are simply fooling J519 the correct wattage bulb is fitted. I had this when I retrofitted rear LED tail lights on my car, both flickered when turning the ignition on and I had to disable to hot and cold bulb monitoring, I think I used ODIS Engineering or something similar to do it at the time. Byte 18 is the section you need to change to retrofit the tail lights, can't remember where the bulb monitoring section was, but mine had a default 00 by memory and is hidden from the normal coding in VCDS (no guide to what the bits should be offered for byte 18). Be VERY careful playing around with coding and ALWAYS make a full scan copy of the ecu long coding or you may end up having to buy a new ecu.

Doesn’t matter what tyre you run, hit a nasty unseen pothole obscured by water or unavoidable due to oncoming traffic your tyre is done. Had Q7s, Kodiaks Q4 étron Q8 étron Tiguans Touaregs all with torn sidewalls this week to deal with. Q7 needed a new wheel. But yes I take your point, you are more likely to suffer damage with a band of rubber masquerading as a tyre.

This is prob a better angle

@J.R.Do you seriously think I gave her this advice 🙈😂. This is for fellow enthusiasts who love their car and want to save £300 for tyres🤣 or the guy who split his £450 plus vat VRS rim and tyre on top. Save yourself some grief and money buy learning from our experience. Been waiting two days for the tyres to arrive so car off the road too. No illusion, low profile tyres on VRS. My superb is also running the same 18 inch 40 aspect ratio.I had considered swapping to 17 inch rims with 45 profile tyres. It came with the 18 inch Thermisto wheels. Someone in a Superb next to me in a drive thru once said my front tyre was flat. It wasn’t, just looked that way.

With the roads as they are, please be very vigilant of large potholes hidden by water. My advice would be to slow down or stop and not charge through standing water. My wife took out two tyres on our Superb as she couldn’t see the water filled hole. I went back a few days later and the council still haven’t filled it, One unlucky chap split his rim.

I think they now put stickers on to stop swallowed batteries burning a hole in the oesophagus re recent tragic incidents with children. As long as you stick to a named brand from a shop with a high turn over, you can buy them where you like. The factory supply mostly Panasonic button cells. So to avoid disappointment, steer clear of no name cells from a pack which has an inch of dust sitting on it from a flea market 😉 Also ensure you fit it the correct way up they only work one way round, there is a plus symbol moulded on the fob, but just try flipping it over if the LED (if fitted) doesn’t light up.