Koreenium

I would if I knew someone who had one that can do 20nm. Everyone I know hand tightens smaller stuff and use torque wrenches that start like from 30nm.

I recently replaced my engine and one thing has been bothering me because I seem to have issues with poor idling. Anyway plastic intake manifold has 7 bolts holding it in place. Manual tells me to torque those bolts to 20nm. When I tried doing that, I almost stripped one of the bolts, new bolts by the way. I can get at most 15nm before it feels like bolt starts stretching or atleast something feels like it's about to give up. No way I want to snap bolts or crack the plastic intake manifold. I was even wondering if my torque wrench is bad but I have not had any issues using it elsewhere. It ranges from 6-30nm. Is the service manual wrong by telling me to torque to 20nm? Or do I really need to buy another torque wrench?

Yes, new bolts. I got VICTOR REINZ 14-32035-01 which are not correct length and type but that was the best new bolts I could find that were M9 and same thread pitch as original. I bought two sets and cut the longer ones shorter. They will stretch when torqued to yield. I believe I torqued to 40nm or 45nm + 90 degrees.

Service manual is not liying when it tells you not to loosen main bearing caps. In middle of the bearing you end up with very small clearance and on edges you have way too much clearance. Your oil pressure will suffer greatly. I still threw it together and managed to drive around 5000km before the engine died for good. Camshaft lobes for cylinder 4 was getting very little oil and badly damaged camlobe, roller lifter. Same happened to cylinder 3 but much less and first two cylinders which are also closest to oil pump, got no damage. Boring and machining main bearing seats would have cost at minimum 600€ where I live. For little under 1000€ I got used but low kilometrage engine.

Well, my engine is officially toast. One of the cams has gone bad. And just to add insult to injury, auxiliary water pump seized and caused engine to overheat. Atleast that's over and I have learned a lesson. I'm buying an engine from a junkyard.

I am still baffled. But now I have even more problems but still no check engine light. I now have rough idle. Before even with this noise engine ran smooth but now I can feel how the whole car vibrates while idling. And just few days ago rpm started to fluctuate more than normal. Before issues idle was 650rpm +/- 10 and fuel rail pressure 4480 kPa +/- 30. But now I get 650rpm +/- 50 and fuel rail pressure is +/- 150. Ofcourse HPFP is mechanical so engine rpm directly affects the fuel rail pressure. After cold start if I start driving immediately I can feel how engine loses little bit of power for a second then drives normal and then loses slight amount of power again and then feels fine again. It feels little bit like when clutch slips but instead of rpm going up, it drops slightly. Otherwise seems to make power just fine but I can tell that engine does run just bit rough. Also on cold start engine starts bit sluggish and hesitates/stumbles some times but not always. I checked compression and all 4 cylinders had 140psi which is on the low side but considered I did cylinder honing myself and this engine uses moly piston rings it's not really surprising. All 4 cylinders and spark plugs look alike. Cylinders have maybe little bit wetness and typical carbon build up. I have been doing oil changes pretty often so I can't tell if it consumes oil but atleast I can't see smoke or smell anything odd from exhaust. Spark plugs look perfect and gaps are same on all of them. 0.8mm ( Bosch plugs ). Oh and before fuel lines were not causing problems then now because of how much engine vibrates, fuel lines have started to rub paint off on some spots. Great fun.

What doesn't leak on this engine after 10 years. 1) Oil seperator does not need to be replaced just cleaned and resealed. Real pain to remove and reinstall because you need to remove exhaust which is annoyingly time consuming process. 2 ) Rear main seal can leak or very bottom of it can leak where it comes together with oil pan. Gearbox shaft seal can leak. Any leak from there is time consuming job. 3) Common place for oil leaks is the seal around oil level meter at the very bottom of the oil pan. Easy 5min job to replace when doing oil change. 4) Anywhere around the oil pan can leak. Hard to take off and reseal without some additional work. 5) Oil filter bracket is very likely to leak. There are two rubber seals that get very hard like plastic from engine heat and start leaking all over the alternator, AC pump and rest of the engine below it. Fairly easy job but still takes time.

I have been driving around and trying to do diagnostics. I have used stethoscope to try and point where the noise is coming from. It's not coming from fuel lines while idling, Don't know if it makes noise while driving. While idling I can absolutely hear metallic clatter coming from crankshaft timing chain sprocket area. I had the top timing cover off and did my best to inspect everything visible from there but I could not see anything out of place. I retimed the engine and did an oil change ( I had changed oil already several times before ) and for the next 30km noise stopped completely but then came back. Another area that seems to be noisier than before is the camshaft area. It seems to make louder noise than before engine rebuild. Could perhaps indicate lower oil pressure on the top end? Camshaft sprocket makes almost no noise. Any idea if there is a way to install oil pressure gauge to 1.2 CBZA? I have not seen low oil pressure warning since very first start after rebuild. Using VCDS I recorded all types of different readings while driving to work and back for few weeks. Things I noticed that some times you can feel how the engine jerks just as if it misfired but VCDS did not record any misfires. 1 misfire in last 1300km. Real interesting thing I found was that knock sensor reading for cylinder nr. 2 was constantly higher than other three cylinders. So I though it would make sense because high pressure fuel pump is mounted on top of cylinder 2. But then I noticed that fuel injector time pulse was also constantly 10-20% longer than on other three cylinders. Other cylinders were very much even. Can't remember what the actual readings were but something in milliseconds. Believe me or not but my dog ate my laptops charger and battery is empty so I can't check the readings. I removed the high pressure fuel pump to see if maybe it's leaking fuel into the engine. Years ago my original pump failed by flooding the engine with fuel. I did not see anything wrong but I swear I could smell little bit of gasoline on the plunger spring part but I'm not sure. When I did last oil change then oil was hazy looking but that could be because I just rebuilt engine and cylinders are still breaking in. I have only driven around 2500km so far. I have all new injectors. Original ones were not good even after cleaning them. Probably good idea to do compression test to make sure all cylinders are good. Not sure what else to do other than keep on driving and see how far I get before it gives up.

First siple step would be scanning for engine codes with OBD II scanner. I don't know much about diesels so can't help much but I guess it could be something as simple as MAF sensor or something as complex as diesel injection pump.

If they have connected the head unit to a CAN bus adapter and head unit does not turn off then either the wiring is wrong or it simply does not work with CAN bus. Luckily if you don't want or don't need CAN bus then you can hard wire head unit to the ignition and have it turn off every time you turn off the car from key. For that you need a piggy back fuse adapter. Connect it to any of the less critical fuses in the fuse box that loses power when ignition is off. Can't remember which one I used. And then wire piggy back fuse adapters wire to the head units red wire. Yellow wire is constant +12v.

That looks good. Have they finally fixed it after many years of complaints or is this just because chinese fixed the issue where half the screen was covered with useless information? This is what it used to be: Haven't used android auto for years so might have to try it out.

These cheap headunits usually have much weaker built in recievers which means poorer radio reception. Also if the speakers rely on the built in amplifer to power them then you can also get worse sound quality, not to mention sound quality can be worse regardless if you have external amp. Some of the cheap units are really slow and unresponsive. They can be fine for your average user and be absolutely an upgrade over the basic stock radio. I would not recommend getting one if you want to upgrade speakers to get better sound quality etc. And I personally think that Waze is borderline unusable on any android auto system with a small screen because atleast half the screen is covered up with stuff that does nothing but block the view of the map. Unless they have fixed it? Until then Waze on a phone is far superior experience.

Engine mount looks fine and is torqued down. Gearbox mount and dogbone mount is also fine. I essentially can't feel engine vibrations at all in the cabin. Which is unusual because before engine rebuild I felt low idle vibrations easily. When turning right, whatever part of the timing system gets shifted ever so slightly to the left from the g-force which causes the noise to stop? Could be that timing chain and the sprockets are slightly binding because they are vertically misaligned ever so slightly? Because the camshaft sprocket is bigger, it doesn't get affected as much as the crankshafts much smaller sprocket and that's why this noise is coming from the crankshaft sprocket and not from the camshaft sprocket. I can think of two reasons why sprockets may not be aligning properly with one another is because new camshaft sprockets is ever so slightly sticking more or less out than the original one. Or because I swapped the left and right main thrust bearings which shifted crankshaft slightly? Or I am just overthinking. I have also noticed that there is no noise in the evening when the car has been sitting in the warm weather for a whole day untill engine starts to warm up after 5-10 minutes of driving. After which it gradually appears and gets so noticeable in the end that you can hear it even while idling. Perhaps there is oiling problem? Anyway I have to take it apart and inspect it closer. I hope it's fine til the next weekend when I have time. Oh and the timing chain stretch or whatever it's called in VCDS, does not change when driving. It always stays at -5.18 degrees. I even reset the value but after starting the engine it goes back to -5.18.

Only thing I can think of doing wrong is when I tightened the camshaft sprocket. Which can cause the timing chain to be slightly off because timing sprockets are not keyed. I made sure that new chain and other parts were identical to the old ones. And I don't think it matters which way I installed the timing chain, atleast I did not see any mentions in the manual or in the package that it came in. Thinking about how turning right can cause the noise to go away. Makes me think if perhaps the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket are no longer perfectly aligned with each other and this is causing excessive wear on timing chain and sprockets? Or perhaps chain guides are pushing against the chain? I guess we'll find out once I have it apart. Not looking forwards to this.

According to VCDS timing chain is off by -5.18 degrees. I am pretty sure that is too much because with my old chain was -2.56 degrees. And I used tools to set correct timing. Anyways something fishy is going on.

After using stethoscope I have determined that the noise is coming from timing chain. specifically the crankshaft sprocket area. Crankshaft sprocket is the one piece I did not replace because it needs a special tool to remove and install a new one. At the time I could not find any without having to wait for weeks. Not to mention ones I found were pretty expensive, over 200€. Noise coming from the crankshaft procket area is very obvious metallic chatter. At no point it sounds like typical chain rattle. Camshaft sprocket area is very smooth and quiet. I also found out that Febi chain tensioner is very soft and spongy when submerged in oil but old tensioner becomes rock solid when I try to compress it inside oil. Anyway it seems I might need to replace the whole timing set again. I'm not looking forward to doing this. And no way I am spending over 200€ on a tool I'll use once. Oh and when driving around I noticed that when I pushed rpm over 4000 then noise stopped. And noise sometimes also stops when doing right hand turns. Odd.

Okay so I drove around after MOT and after a little while I started hearing more and more of weird vibrating noise, not sure how to describe this, coming from the passenger side corner of the engine bay. It is in sync with engine rpm. Usually can be heard slightly at idle and gets louder and more obvious as rpm increases. Especially easy to hear when rpm goes over 2000 and gets very loud at 4000 rpm. Here is a video, sound track: At 0:10 easy to hear the abnormal noise. My immeditate idea was timing chain because it sounds little vibrating chain. I replaced cam gear, timing chain, timing tensioner timing chain guides and oil pump chain when I rebuilt the engine. I did use kit from ENGINETEAM, I think it's a rip off in terms of quality/price ratio. Original set would have been cheaper and visually higher quality. On a weekend I am going to do proper diagnostics by removing accesory belt and see if maybe a pulley or AC pump ( AC system not working currently ) is culprit. Meanwhile perhaps someone has heard something like this and can give me some pointers. Regards

Haha, I guess it could always be way worse.

Does your car also have a secondary coolant pump? I don't know about diesel variants but secondary pump is pretty much on every gasoline engine and in my case it was probably only thing making some coolant flow which prevented coolant from reaching 130C and thus did not drigger overheating warning. This also helps coolant circulate into the heater core which probably explains why I got heating in cabin.

[ SOLVED ] I can't believe this stupid little thing is the sole cause for my problem. It was stuck open which prevents coolant pump from pumping. This is most insane and utter useless piece of garbage "smart" technology you can have on this car. When this thing was broken it did not take very long for coolant to warm up to 80-90C. With this thing working it takes me good 10 minutes with a hot 24C weather to get up to 80-90C. Insane. I am 100% convinced this is also main cause for my engine failure as this thing not working, does not register in the ECU as broken and thus it does not give you a warning code. And because this car does not have a temperature gauge you'll never know that this thing is broken until your engine has grenaded from running at constant 110-120C. Stupid overheating warning kicks in at 130C.

I found this site: https://skoda-fabia-israel.blogspot.com/2013/04/cooling-system.html It explains a lot about the cooling system and how it works in this engine ( CBZA and CBZB ). Based on this having air stuck in the cylinder head is probably unlikely? If coolant temperature sensor is not wrong, which I doubt because it is obvious that engine gets quite warm even when you stand next to it. Too warm. Secondary coolant pump behind the engine is working. You can hear it running after you shut off the engine and you can see coolant flowing into the expansion tank. Main water pump is new and pretty simple so not much can go wrong, right? But I did not realise that coolant pump is controlled by vacuum. There is a small check valve and solenoid valve N492 which controls vacuum to turn water pump on and off. And apparently if this solenoid valve is stuck open then it causes coolant to get hot because coolant pump is not working. This could also explain why lower radiator hose stays cold for a long time after coolant goes over 110C. Simply coolant is not flowing because pump is not puping. But this should trigger a engine warning code, right? I have none.

I drained whole cooling system. I checked everywhere for blockages but I did not find any. Radiator is clean. I swapped new thermostats to old ones and nothing changed. Though lower radiator hose did get slightly warm after a while which is good. Coolant pump is new and seems to be fine. There are no leaks. Coolant does not leak into combustion chambers, there is no smoke at all from exhaust, no misfires etc. Combustion gases do not leak into cooling system, coolant is clean and flows nice and smooth. CO2 tester showed negative. I was thinking perhaps I hooked some hose in the wrong place but as far as I could tell everything was exactly where it is supposed to be. Near impossible to get stuff mixed up. So now I am wondering if there is air stuck in the cylinder head. I did change coolant once in the past but I did not drain the whole system like you do with full engine rebuild. So perhaps I do need to have air vacuumed out like mentioned before. I did my best to get air out by squeezing various hoses. I had heater running at max. I ran the engine with the expansion tank lid off. I took the car for a spin and revved the engine to get coolant flowing faster etc. Also I have VCDS and I checked temperature through it as it shows more than typical OBD II. After hitting 115C coolant temp, Exhaust showed over 500C, turbo was over 320C and oil temperature was just over 90C. With ambient at 23C. There are all kind of other odd values that show impossible numbers like "Coolant temp at radiator outlet" which shows -48C. Pretty sure there is no sensor for this. There is also "Coolant temp at radiator output" showing constant 70.5C. Pretty sure this means nothing aswell. Coolant fan 1: activation-radiator fan 1: 9.8%. Coolant fan 2: activation-radiator fan 2: 0%. Perhaps new temperature sensor is wrong? I am going to swap old one back in. Other than this and getting air vacuumed out of cooling system, I don't know what else to check or do. Edit: I just realised one thing. Even after car has been sitting over night, coolant temperature sensor shows 40C which can't be because ambient is 15-25C. This could be a good indication that my new temperature sensor is wrong? No, wait. I am wrong. Coolant temperature shows ambient temp like 22C but after starting engine it quickly climbs to 50C, takes roughly 1 minute, and then suddenly it starts climbing at much much slower rate upwards. from 50C to 60C took 2 minutes. Normal behaviour right? I assume this is because after cold start engine revs high to get temps up?

Lower radiator hose and lower half of the radiator were completely cold after first run. Only part of the lower radiator hose that started getting some warmth was the end on the thermostat housing. I guess that means thermostat was opening. Otherwise warm coolant shouldn't get to lower hose at all. I'll be inspecting cooling system with endoscope and see if I can find blockage.

Yes, only code is 00819 ( High Pressure Sensor ( G65 ) Open or Short to Ground ) I have 1.2 CBZA. Ideally you'd want to use vacuum to remove air but it seems to get air out of the system just fine. Heater blows hot air. Coolant flow into expansion tank is nice and smooth. When there was air in the system I would rev the engine and I would see how temperature drops untill there seems to be no more air in the system after which temperature starts rising. I checked everything I could think and noticed that lower radiator hose is completely cold even when temperature goes up to 110C after first run. This would also explain why the temperature switch does nothing as it's also cold. Only after screwing around for the whole day and constantly running coolant up to 105-115C is when the radiator fan finally kicked in. So either one of the thermostats is sticking ( New cheap Topran thermostats with thermostat housing ) or there is a blockage in the area.

Problem I have is that the radiator fan ( single fan version ) will not turn on even if coolant temperature goes up to 115 C. I did the usual stuff like check all the fuses which were all good. Both under the steering wheel and on top of the battery. I checked the radiator fan module ( 5J0 919 506 ) which already did go bad few years ago and replaced it with few years newer one from the junkyard. I even got a new one just to make sure junkyard one did not give up. Did not change anything. I checked if the fan was even working and both slow and fast speeds work fine if I give it power directly from the coolant temperature switch plug. I replaced coolant temperature switch ( 1J0 959 481 A ) with a cheap chinese one and radiator fan did kick in at around 102 C and turned off at 99 C which seemed oddly high to me so I got a slightly more expensive Mahle one but now the fan will not turn on at any temperate just like with the original. Putting the chinese one back, fan turns on again at 102 C and off at 99 C. This baffles me. I have no check engine codes besides 00819 ( High Pressure Sensor ( G65 ) Open or Short to Ground ) which shouldn't be related??? And even if I turn on AC ( Not working currently ), radiator fan does not turn on. Chinese switch is supposed to turn on at 95 C and off at 85 C. Mahle version should have slow speed turn on at 97 C and off at 87 C. Fast speed should turn on at 102 C and off at 97 C. I did recently rebuild my engine so I have filled cooling system with new coolant, I installed new thermostat etc. I checked radiator hoses, upper one gets hot and the area around the coolant temperature switch also gets hot. Lower radiator hoses get quite warm so clearly coolant is flowing through the radiator. I did my best to get any air out of the system. Now I'm wondering if I have faulty thermostats or perhaps I left something in the radiator hose which blocks coolant flow. But then again why does the cheap chinese switch work somewhat?