Koreenium

My Rapid has done 250 000km. It's so basic that even if something blows up I don't get any warning lights. Most of the issues I have had are from high kilometrage so most of the issues are not worth mentioning. But I can say that it has never left me stranded. So far atleast.

Definitely on the right side, in front of the rear wheel. toplivnyj-filtr-na-skoda-rapid_1.jpg (1014×718) (wp.com)

Ofcourse this can not be diagnosed like this but I'm atleast looking for any helpful pointers or perhaps knowledge from someone who has had similar issue. Anyway. I did few 0 to 100 accelerations just to see if my car is actually 86hp or not. I did not hear or have any issues. In fact everything worked just fine after few accelerations and even when driving home. But later I noticed that there was a slight clunk when I changed gears and let go of the clutch. It doesn't happen when I select a gear. They seem to go in just fine but when I let go of the clutch then I hear a clunk. When I'm stationary and change gears, press clutch in and let go, there are no noises or anything. Only happens when driving. I have noticed for a while now that I can hear and feel engine vibration more prominently than before so I'm assuming it could be a the dogbone mount that is busted? Damn weather sucks so I don't feel like crawling under the car right now.

Even revised chain can cause problems on these engines. So if you hear rattling, you want to have the chain checked as soon as possible. Especially when mechanic decides not to change the sprockets with chain replacement. Took my car only 6000km before chain started rattling again. Apparantly mechanic didn't bother to change the sprockets because "they looked fine" even though the kit comes with new sprockets and manual says "All parts must be replaced" And mine is late 2014 built car.

My car has same problem. i.imgur.com/T270jZz.png I replaced that PCV valve. It was completely useless. Rubber disk was badly worn and did not create any sort of seal. I don't think I even got to ride for a week before the new one got blown out aswell and became useless. i.imgur.com/lmLnTTr.jpg

I doubt my problem has anything to do with the fuel. With cold weather like -5C I get a nice crisp cold start. On a dry day with +5C I get fairly bad cold start but it is by far worse when it's humid. I have also noticed that on rainy days performance is usually worse. I have replaced spark plugs with NGK iridium plugs. New ignition coil and leads. I also used dielectric grease. And new air filter. Other things I did notice already in the past was that headlights sometimes flicker. For example when I start moving. But recently also noticed that I stopped and turned the wheel and as I was doing it my headlights dimmed slightly. I have brand new battery, in fact the old battery was just fine aswell. Alternator gives around 13.7 - 13.9v. Possibly an electrical issue? I did notice that connection on the starter is rusty. Nut atleast is. But that shouldn't be a problem? I have also noticed that at some time a rodent has lived inside the engine bay. Have not seen any broken wires so far.

I also have this problem on my Skoda Rapid with 1.2 TSI CBZA engine. I went throught the repair manual and I haven't noticed anything that would say or indicate that it can't be just removed and new one installed. But then again I'm not experienced with this. Though I have seen some others say that they have just replaced it with a new one. Some have also recommended using timing tools to make sure that everything stays in the right place. I even tried on mine but there are hoses in the way which makes it bit difficult to remove and it was so tight that I could not even get it to budge. And I put quite a lot of force on it as my breaker bar was actually flexing. Was afraid something was going to break so I never got around to changing it. Head size on the chain tensioner is 27mm and it has to be tightened to 60nm. Also there are atleast couple of different chain tensioners so you have to make sure to get the correct one, unless they are compatible with each other? Supposedly the 03F 109 507 F is the latest one. Also this rattling on cold starts could be caused by the oil filter not sealing properly and letting oil drain back after car has been sitting for a while. Apparantly another common issue with these engines.

I don't know about octane ratings and how much it changes between summer and winter formulas but let's assume that winter formula has 100+. Why would it matter this much? Originally this engine is rated to run on 95. Several of my friends use same fuel and they have literally no noticeable difference going from summer to winter etc. Though they do have different cars, engines and much lower milage etc.

I have been using mostly 98 and it is mostly from one fuel station. I might have to go try fuel from elsewhere. Weird thing is that it has gotten better again but I have all kinds of other issues. I guess this is what I get with high milage engine like this.

Anyway back to the original topic. Sluggish start is back and apparently the new check valve ( non-return valve - 03F103175A ) has failed. I bought a Hitatchi 139315 and it seemed high quality. I assume the failure might have something to do with high pressure inside the engine block?

On my car the grommet split and the valve itself was fine. Grommet: 03F 103 638 Valve: 030 103 175 B

Chip and crack on panoramic roof... that costs almost as much as my cars engine rebuild. Good thing your insurance covered it.

Keeps getting more interesting. After that particular oil change my high pressure fuel pump started leaking. That's why the engine oil became milky. It was full of gasoline. And it does seem that the chain is making some noise. Very obvious when driving around, not when idling. Few days after HPFP got changed, chain rattled for a second or two on startup. Engine was not happy. No weird knocking at the moment. Idles bit rough but seems to run decently when driving.

Well, considered it's high milage engine, has a lot of blow by etc I thought it could perhaps help smoothed out the engine. A lot of people have said good things about it as much as I have found online. Especially using on older high milage engines. If these new issues are caused by this then I guess I got what I deserved. I have also heard that some workshops always add oil additives whenever they change oil but that's completely different topic. What I meant was that protective plastic cover under the engine. Well I'm wondering if that particular spark plug was already damaged when I got it? I never paid that much attention and on a simple glance looked fine. I checked old NGK plugs and none of them had this sort of damage. This time they were all nice and tight. I have noticed that I have to screw the plugs in at a correct angle or they start binding ever so slightly every turn and that's while being careful. Not really surprised if the threads are all screwed up. I can imagine that whoever used anti seize did not know or is one of those people who simply doesn't care. I have seen online that this is a fairly common issue and there are a lot of people who claim that they use anti seize on all spark plugs. I definitely know this but the knocking I hear is completely new and very distinguishable. I was trying to locate it but all I can tell it clearly coming from the engine and not where high pressure fuel pump is.

Well... sluggish cold start is sort of back. So I decided to change engine oil but instead of previous 0W-40 Shell oil I got 5W-40 Castrol because I was not 100% certain it was a genuine Shell Helix Ultra oil and I also added Luqui Moly CeraTec just because why not. And this time I did not fill it all the way to the top of the hatched area. I left it around 75% mark. Then I removed the camshaft sensor just to take a peak inside the engine from a different spot but instead I noticed there was this silver, grey gunk build up around the tip of the sensor. I couldn't really tell if it was made out of metal particals or not. Should have taken a picture. Anyways I cleaned it off and put it back in. I went on a drive and noticed that there is a knock coming from the engine. Because it was late and I had to go to work next day I left it as is because I thought the knocking like sound is coming from the engine cover from underneath which I probably did not tighten properly after oil change because some of the bolts were really rusty and difficult to get in. Now a week later I decided to look more closely as I had noticed that this knocking can be mostly heard when the engine is cold and it starts knocking more as rpm goes up. Very evident when letting engine idle at 650 rpm and hearing a slow knock. When increasing rpm, knocking becomes more rapid but doesn't seem to get louder. I decided to take the spark plugs out once again. Here are what the spark plugs look like: 1,2,3,4 I also measured the gap with a proper tool and noticed that first spark plug has gap of 0.7mm but rest have 0.8mm. Also on the first spark plug you can see that the "iridium" tip is mushroomed out. Had not noticed that before. Besides this I also noticed that first spark plug has loose rattling terminal end. No cracks in the insulator. So I just put the old worn park plugs back in instead of these Bosch ones. For just in case I checked oil level and there is something else in there besides oil as it was over max level and there was slight yellowish milkiness. Coolant level looks fine. Milkiness could be from Liqui Moly CeraTec which also happens to be milky? But then again oil level is way higher than it was after filling it up and it looks bit watery. Anyway I think I have to drain the oil. Also did some logging with VCDS and knock sensor shows higher than usual amounts of vibrations coming from cylinder 3 when idling cold at first. I guess engine rebuild is ahead.

What size tyres do you have on those rims? Also any rubbing or issues with these wheels?

I did some more testing. There is nothing blocking PCV system outside of the engine. All pipes are clean. And if I disconnect one of the PCV hoses then engine really starts misbehaving as it should with massive vacuum leak. I took the oil filler cap off and tested blow by with a tissue paper and it just gets blown away in a second. Blow by is really strong. One affect it has on engines performance is that with the oil filler cap on there is a lot of low frequency rumble and if I take the cap off it sounds a lot quieter and smoother. I'm wondering if I could somehow reduce the pressure inside the crankcase from blow by? Or should I leave it as is? Oh and how can I tell if there is chain rattle that is abnormal? I can clearly hear the tappets and I can hear the chain if I listen very closely. There is no obvious chain rattle when cold starting as far as I can hear. I did notice that in VCDS timing chain stretch has increased from 3.4 degrees to 3.6 degrees in like a week but was sitting at 3.4 degrees a while.

I'll definitely keep that in mind. When I changed the oil I filled it all the way up to the top of the hatched area on the dipstick. I guess next time I'll do the 75% fill instead. When I got the car it already had a lot of oil in the intake though. Before starting the car, voltage was 12.4-12.6. When the car is running then voltage is around 13.8-13.9. I have noticed that when starting the car, headlights change brightness. Flicker a bit. Good to know! If I have money to waste then I might get the NGK plugs and see if that does anything.

Maybe the worn electrode was on cylinder 3, can't remember. Leads are correct. One interesting thing I recently noticed when I was replacing ignition coil and ignition leads was that the two further away connections on the ignition coil had this greenish, white powdery type of corrosion but the two closer to the engine had none. They looked almost brand new. And two of the leads had clearly been moved around at some point because one with greenish powder on the inside the connection, was plugged into one of the clean connections on the bottom of the ignition coil and the other clean ignition lead was connected to the connection with greenish bowder. I think they were cylinder 1 and 3 cables that had been switched. But they were otherwise correctly configured.

Replacing the check valve fixed my sluggish cold start. Now it starts normally again. I'll recheck the hoses. I'll use a soft plastic rod or something like that and see if there is any resistance in the way. There aren't that many parts to the PCV system is there? I know there is that one hose that comes from the air filter housing and connects to the PCV valve. Got the PCV valve just repalced aswell. And then there is that 3 way hose where one end connects to the N80 purge valve (I also replaced this with a new one as I was getting an fault code refering to it, which has not come back after replacing it.) another end connects right below the throttle body, to the inlet manifold and the third end connects to the check valve which was broken and just got replaced. Anything else? Perhaps there is a blockage inside the engine somewhere? 242 000km, so quite a lot. It could be that at this milage engine is just worn and this much blow by is normal. I'm going to put a rubber glove over the oil filler cap hole while the engine is running and see how much it inflates it. Perhaps what I felt was just an air movement and not really air being blown out. I did some more testing and now I got only 1 misfire on cylinder 1 but 3 misfires on cylinder ?4? (actually 2?) For whatever reason when checking misfres, cylinders are labled as 1,3,4,6. And when checking knock sensor, cylinders are labled like this: Cylinder 1: knock senor voltage cyl.1; Cylinder 2: knock senor voltage cyl.4; Cylinder 3: knock senor voltage cyl.3 and Cylinder 4: knock senor voltage cyl.6. So I assume that cylinder "4" misfires are actually for cylinder 2? Interesting thing about misfires is that they generally happen only after cold start while idling and instantly stop when I start moving. I may get a single misfire randomly when driving but not more untill next cold start. When I removed old plugs a while ago then cylinder 1 and 2 plugs had most amount of wear on the ground electrodes. Other two were in very good shape. I can't really hear anything unusual and I can't hear any timing chain rattle as far as I can tell. Even my friend couldn't hear anything. I can't remember exactly from the top of my head but with VCDS I was able to see some timing chain related stuff and some angle after last timing chain replacement was 2.5 degrees and current timing chain stretch was 3.4 degrees. I can recheck these values.

I cleaned the PCV pipes. They were not blocked but I noticed that there was quite a bit of oil in it. And one of the ends that connects to the check valve (non-return valve on the cylinder head) had fair amount of gunk in it but not blocked. And then I looked into the check valve and it had quite a bit of gunk and so did the bigger short pipe that connects the check valve to the turbo. I took the check valve off and noticed that it wasn't working as intended. You could blow air and brake cleaner through it in every direction. So I replaced it with a new one and my first impressions are that it made a noticeable difference. Now the engine is much more happy to rev and it feels pretty much like it used to before at lower rpm. Rumbling noise seems to go away near 1300-1400rpm instead of 1400-1500. I took the dipstick out when the engine was running and I did not feel any air movement. Engine did not seem to have been affected by this at all. When I removed oil filler cap then It felt like quite a bit of air was getting blown out. Not sure. And it felt like the cap was held on with basically no vacuum? Not sure what to think of this. Did not do compression test just yet.

Well, I think this engine is slowly on it's way out. Just today I noticed that there was burnt oil slowly leaking out of the exhaust. It was completely dry few weeks to a month ago. Not to mention that oil separator is leaking pretty noticeably and has even sprayed some oil out. I wanted to take it apart and reseal it but it's basically impossible without taking the subframe out etc.

I was trying to record this but my phone is not capturing the sound. But I found this video on youtube where they have a very similar sound when pressing accelerator.

That's good to know. Every time I have taken the plugs out I have also been able to clean some of it off. Whoever did it, used some sort of grey antiseize. This time when I removed the spark plugs they were all secured just fine. So perhaps it was because of antiseize? I removed the spark plug and when I put it back in again, the ignition wire went on just fine. I did not look at the threads so I don't really know. I had no problems taking it out and putting it back in. That's good to know. Most of the misfires happened on number 1. I can also do the compression test. What sort of numbers should I get? Not much. I changed oil 2000km ago and it's basically at the same level as before. Ofcourse assuming there is no oil dilution.

Actually gushing is not the right description. When I press accelerator, even slightly and I don't accelerate, I get this flapping noise that reminds me of flat tyre. And as soon as I let go, it completely stops. I also noticed that when I go over a wavy road, this noise comes and goes as long as the accelerator is pressed down slightly. I removed spark plugs and tried looking inside the engine. I don't have a borescope so what I saw was limited but it looks like there is quite a bit of carbon buildup on the piston. All 4 cylinders were nice and dry. Spark plugs themselves look good. I am planning to do vacuum test with a vape pen. What would be the ideal vacuum line to use for testing?