Koreenium

Yes, that's literally what I mentioned in the first post. But why would manufacturers sell new STD, oversized crankshaft bearings or oversized pistons etc if this was the case? Clearly it can be done but obviously for a dealership it's more cost effective to just replace everything and bill the client than to waste their own money and time for potentially sub-par work.

I did some research and I found a very similar engine. 1.4 TSI CAXA / CAXC that does not share many if any components at all with my CBZA / CBZB engine but it does share many torque specs. For example both conrod big ends are supposed to be torqued at 30Nm + 90 degrees. They have nearly idenctical piston ring caps etc. Both engines also have 2 bolt main / crankshaft bearing caps. They are similar in size and shape. Similar production years etc. Surely this isn't 100% correct way but it seems that this might be the best option I have.

Big end bearings look good because they are new. I was diagnosing issue before and I had the bottom opened up. Only one out of four big end bearings had some wear, I think it was 4th one which happens to be the furthest from oil pump, others looked like new despite being original with 260 000 km. I am planning to just deglaze cylinders and put new set of pistons and rings in it. I am going to make sure I cover up crankshaft as well as I can to prevent dirt gettings into wrong places. Crankshaft itself turns very smoothly without any resistance. No visible abnormalities, which can mean absolutely nothing as I have already learned from my other engine. But slight glitter is everywhere so I'm afraid it may cause issues later down the road. I guess I have to change oil several times in short amount of time after puting it back together. I was told that I would be fine to remove the crankshaft as long as I can find torque specs and proper torquing procedure but so far I have nothing. I am going through other manuals to see if any similar engines has proper information so I can atleast use that as a basis for my engine. I have another car that I'm also rebuilding the engine for but that car is from 90's and it has very thick original service manual that gives you everything you need to rebuild engine properly. Racing teams still have a very specific procedures they follow in order for their engines to last even dozen laps. As a beginner I atleast need some guidance so this little 86hp engine doesn't blow up after 100km.

Wear is on the thrust side of the cylinder/ piston. I don't believe that is caused by worn crankshaft thrust bearings? Cylinder walls have lost almost all of the cross hatching so I'd think that is just from normal wear. I do have some and I can use it but the problem I'm having is that there is no information what the clearance should be, no torque specs, no torquing procedure, no nothing. I was told that because this engine block is so light weight you need to have a correct torquing procedure or you can run into problems. And as I said there is no information for this engine. I don't want to pull it apart and then throw it into the trash because I can't put it back together. I could do some trial and error testing but I'm not very fond of that idea.

I have 2014 Skoda Rapid with 1.2L TSI ( CBZA ). 86hp, 4 ctlinders. 260 000 km ( ~160 000 miles ). Aluminium engine block. I had to take the engine out because there was glitter in oil. I discovered that all 4 cylinder walls and pistons have significant scuffing on one side but everything else looks good. I can get the cylinders fixed but problem is that my service manual specifically says that "Measuring the main bearing clearance is not possible with normal workshop equipment." and "Crankshaft must not be removed as merely releasing bearing covers will result in bearing seat deformation." This means I can't have the crankshaft removed which means I can't hone cylinders. So why on earth are there oversized and replacement crankhaft main bearings and oversized pistons for sale??? Surely someone knows how to remove and replace crankshaft main bearings on this engine? Any ideas where I could get some information because I'm not buying a junkyard engine.

I replaced the oil pump chain and gears, still just as loose. I did find out that oil separator was clogged up pretty good. There was around 1cm of gunk on the bottom.

My 2014 looks just like that. Not sure if there has ever been any sort of cover or splash guard there. I do have problems with water getting stuck either in rear right door or in the B pillar. Humidity is a problem.

Ok, so the oil pump chain is really loose.

Do you have the liftback ( NH3 ) or hatchback ( NH1 )?

Mine is 2014. And I'm aware of timing chain issues. My car has 262 000km and it has a third timing chain, last changed at 234 000km. No timing chain rattle. But I don't know whether the oil pumps chain has been changed.

So recently I was cleaning my cars interior and I let it idle for an hour. No overheating or anything like that. Then I drove a bit and suddenly I got quite loud grinding noise from the engine bay. I stopped but could not see anything wrong. I drove home and left the car to sit over night. Next day when I got back, it no longer made any odd noises after cold start. But once it warmed up, it started making noises again. It would come and go over the days. I have noted several times how it seemed to sound fine until the engine warms up and the blue coolant light or whatever it is goes off, after which it starts making these noises. Other times I get to drive few hundred meters before it starts making noise. Engine also seems to start vibrating more than usual at the same time these noises appear. On a warmer day engine seems to vibrate from the start. Engine and transmission mounts seem fine. There are no misfires but I can hear louder tapping noises from the tappets. I used stethoscope and only odd thing I could hear from the top of the engine was somewhat louder tapping noise from cylinder 3. Also I get rougher exhaust noise than usual. I had p0141 code for "o2 Sensor Heater Circ. Bank 1 Sensor 2 Malfunction" but it quickly archived itself and has not come back. It probably came after I accelerated hard to 4000rpm and engine hesitated for a second. Happened before the grinding sound incident. Timing chain does not seem to make any noise. But I can hear some of the noise coming from the passenger side of the engine. It seems to be coming from the back side. I checked accessory belt drive and everything was fine. I checked water pump and it looked fine but it had noticeable axial play so I replaced it but nothing. I tried recording sounds when driving as it's best heard then but I could not capture everything as well as I hoped. If you listen to the "Rapid_Engine_Noise_01" from the attachments then at 0:03 you can hear one of the vibrating noises when I am starting to move as I press accelerator and slowly release clutch. I can't pinpoint the location of this noise but it's clearly from the engine. Then at 0:10 when accelerating you can start hearing how the engine vibrates. 0:16 Engine vibration is quite obvious. But the main noise that is usually inaudible when engine is cold and is also hard to describe. It's audible in person but not so much on a recording. In recording "Rapid_Engine_Noise_02" you can sort of make out this noise as it goes up and comes down with the engine rpm. Usually when riving you can hear it best at a slight acceleration and when you let go of the accelerator then it stops or quiets down for a moment. In person it sound as grindy gurgling, rumbling? noise. I'm going to be doing an oil change so I might drop the oil pan to get a better looks at the oil pump. Also might check out the camshaft and intake manifold before the engine completely destroys itself. Rapid_Engine_Noise_01.mp3 Rapid_Engine_Noise_02.mp3

This is how it looked 10 months ago before installing lowering springs: How it looked right after: And how it looks like now: Rear end is way lower now and even looks weird, as if rear axle has shifted forwards. I can say that it has not.

If anyone ever wonders why H&R lowering springs feel harsh compared to Eibach... That's what the the spring looks like when you have the car sitting on the ground. Essentially 1/3rd of the H&R rear spring is fully compressed. Did they even test these springs on a car? Unless this is designed like this on purpose. Besides this I had issues with rear end hitting bump stop every time I went over a bigger bump. Left side is 114mm long ( 6Q0 512 131 C ) none stock bump stop, In the middle is stock length 144mm long bump stop and on the right side is another 114mm long ( 1J0 512 131 C ) none stock bump stop. I decided to replace stock one with the one on the right side because it is overall better fit. At first it may not seem like a big difference in length but when I measured stock bump stop, I realised that it has been severely compressed over a month of usage. It now measures 124mm while originally it was 144mm. It has lost 20mm from rear end bottoming out too much.

I mean least you could do if this noise continues is take it to the Skoda dealership and let them check the timing chain for wear. Better safe than sorry.

Timing chain would last as long as the engine ( generally 250 000km ) if it was well designed. Something that clearly can not be said about 1.2 TSI CBZA and CBZB engines. Otherwise mine would not be on a third chain by now. Also technically speaking engine lasts as long as timing chain because when the chain breaks or skips a tooth, your engine is toast.

My 1.2 TSI with timing chain never makes this sort of noise. Slight rattle on cold start can sometimes happen when left to sit for long time, when parked on an incline or has a wrong oil filter but nothing like this. If you get this rattle constantly when starting the engine then it's clearly timing chain that is making it and you need to get it replaced. At 138 000km you are already overdue for timing chain replacement on a 1.2 TSI. Can't comment about other engines. My 1.2 TSI with over 250 000km is already on its third timing chain. First one was replaced after ~100 000km and second one was done after 230 000km because of severe timing chain rattle even while driving around. And my engine is late 2014 made which has all the early timing chain problems "fixed".

So a while back I noticed that my cars power on lower RPMs was noticeably down from what it used to be. It did not happen over night but instead had steadily decreased over a period of a year. RPMs at which the turbo kicked in was becoming more and more sporadic. What came to my mind was an idea of a failing turbo. Most commonly the wastegate itself goes bad and no longer holds the pressure. Just by searching online I quickly found that these 1.2 TSI CBZ engines had various problems with turbo wastegate actuators and there are many different versions of these wastegate actuators just for this engine alone. Wow, could it be, another common issue with this engine? One more common issue was wastegate rattle on early engines. This rattle was fixed with a 2mm shim ( 03F 145 371 A ). Anyway I took a look at my wastegate actuator and at first glimps looked fine, it was moving when running a charge pressure actuator test etc. But when I grabbed the actuator rod I noticed that it quite freely moved back and forth about a +/- 5mm with no effort at all and I could hear the wastegate rattle. No surprise I was low on power. Well my idea was to take the actuator off and take it apart to see if I could do something to fix it, perhaps even add that shim even though my late 2014 made car shouldn't need one. Well, that did not go well. Actuator housing broke in half. Time for a new part then. But these exact actuators are no longer available. ( 03F 145 725 G ) So I looked for an alternative and found ( 03F 198 725 C ) which according to several people and sites should fit and work just fine. But then again I got some aftermarket one and the actuator rod was 3-4mm too short. This means the voltage reading from the actuator is too low and you can't do adaptation or use it. So I was stupid enough to cut the rod in half, threaded it and used a coupling nut. While I could adjust the length, it sadly still did not work. I was getting P334A code which indicates actuators electrical malfunction. Rod fully extended, voltage was 4.8v. Installed it was showing voltage of 2.8v. I tried adjusting voltage to 3.6v, 4.1v but none of these let me do an adaptation. In VCDS it kept telling me "aborted for safety reasons". After a while I gave up. Eventually I got a a whole turbo from a junkyard for 140€. It was from an older 2011 VW Golf VI that had driven around 150 000km. It came with a shim and everything. But I noticed that the turbo arm was badly worn. Not going to be using the turbo but still something I noticed. So either another problem with these. Something to do with the shim that was added at some point or it has done a bit more than 150 000km ( probably more like 350 000 km ). Turbo arm on my turbo is perfectly normal looking. I mounted my new junkyard actuator to my car. At first it was ceased, rod did not move and I could not attach the spindel to the arm but when I plugged it in and turned my car on, it moved and now I was able to connect it with no problems. There is very little play in the rod unlike the one I had originally on my car. So that's good atleast. I did not install it with the shim as I did not find it neccassary at first. Adaptation finished succesfully. Went on a drive and when RPM got up to 3000, EPC light turned on. Now it was telling me P334B which indicates actuator mechanical malfunction. Great. I installed the shim but now I was no longer able to do an actuator adaptation. and I was no longer able to even start a car without getting EPC light. Right before I was about to give up I removed the shim and cleared the codes. Went on a drive and no more EPC light. I did few quick pulls all the way up to 6000rpm and no problem. Car now has proper power again. Apparantly the actuator had ceased up from sitting for a while and using the shim helped it stretch its leg a bit and got it loosened up. So far seems to work great. I took my original actuator apart but I could not locate a reason why it had so much slop when it was plugged into the car. When I disconnected it, it no longer had that slop. Posted this just for others who might have similar problems.

These thin bitumen sound deadening sheets are really meant to be used on large flat surfaces to mostly stop vibration and sounds created from vibration. They don't actually block a whole lot of external sounds. For stopping external sounds you need different type of sound blocking and sound absorbing materials. When using these bitumen sound deadening sheets you may want to use a roller and some other tools with 90 degree corners etc and press those sheets firmly to the surface. This should improve the effect of these sheets. Also hexagon shaped pattern is there to indicate if you have squeezed the surfaces down hard enough. It should look pretty much flat after installation. Also few tips when installing these thin bitumen sheets. 1) Tap/knock with your finger knuckle onto the surface you want to install these sheets to. If it rings then it needs sound deadening. For example usually large flat surfaces. If it has solid thud then it probably doesn't need any. For example usually those complex support braces like the on the inside of the rear hatch that has that X shaped part. 2) You don't actually need to cover everything with this stuff. For example if you have flat surface that rings then you may only need to cover as little as 1/3rd of the surface to stop most of the vibrations. Ofcourse you can always tap on the surface around the already applied sheet and that tells you if you need to add more. This way you can save a lot of money and weight. Just to let you know so you don't end up wasting too much money on these sheets to only get minimal results. :)

That sounds like timing chain rattle. How many miles/kilometers has your car driven? And has it ever had timing chain replaced? Also what engine does it have?

I need to do this with mine. Really annoying to open it otherwise.

I just installed lowering springs with Bilstein B4 shocks and ride quality is not the best. It's bit bouncy with Eibach springs but with H&R springs it can get pretty damn rough. Obviously need proper shocks. I ordered Koni STR.T shocks from Ebay, they were 400€ total. They are compatible with lowering springs. I don't have them just yet so I can't comment on how good they are but I have seen people praise them with lowering springs. Anyway parts number for Koni front struts is 8750-1114 and rear shocks is 8050-1017. I can't comment too much on Polo parts compatibility but I think Mk5 Sedan should be using same struts and shocks.

Using lowering springs can also have negative affect on ride quality. Can make the car more harsh and bouncy when using stock struts/shocks and they will go bad far faster. Not sure if there are struts/shocks available for lowered suspension on Scala. Otherwise you need wheel alignment but also who ever installs them has to loosen and retorque some of the control arm bushing or they'll be overstrained from the car sitting lower which then causes them to fail prematurely.

Have not had time to work on body but I did lower my car. Before: After: Now parts used are mishmash. I have Eibach lowering springs in the front with VW Polo 6N upper strut mounts. They are roughly 10-15mm lower than stock ones. Front Eibach spring only lower around 30mm. Stock on left: But also comes with an issue. Cup that mounts on the very top of the sturt has to be much shallower. Even the shallow ones I got are not enough. Whoops! Stock parts were actually not that much better. Anyway, in the rear I have H&R lowering springs because they lower the car around 40mm compared to only 30mm on Eibach. If I have any issues then I might install H&R in the front aswell. Now you may wonder why I even bothered doing something stupid like this. Uhm.... Yeah. Lets hope everything stays together.

After more digging around I found that 1.2 TSI 63kW ( CBZA ) engine came with MFX or LGQ 5 speed 02T gearboxes out of the factory. lhVvX0g.png (740×536) (imgur.com) Would it be safe to assume that if I go with MFX or LGQ gearbox from 1.2 TSI or 1.2 TFSI ( CBZA or CBZB ) it would fit without problems even if it comes from Fabia II, Polo? Perhaps there is even a better, stronger gearbox option? I have seen few that have same bolt pattern etc but have some other minor differences. For example some 02U 6 speed gearboxes have same bolt pattern, same mounting points.

I'm planning on replacing my gearbox because it has several problems. Sometimes it makes loud clunk when I put it into gear. Going from 1st to 2nd gear I have to wait for a second before gear actually engages. Selector mechanism is not smooth, seems to snag every now and then. And finally when selecting reverse despite being completely standstill, it slightly grinds. Anyway. Engine is 1.2 TSI CBZA 2014 year and current gearbox is 5 speed MFX with parts number 02T 301 103 AB. Problem is that I can't find locally any that are exact match and I don't know which other ones fit or what difference is there between MFX, LEG etc. I have found LEG 02T 301 103 AB, MFX 02T 300 020 R (RX?). Also pricing seems all over the place. Some low kilometrage go for around ~300€ while another that is much higher goes for ~800€ etc. I would appreciate any help.