bigkris

Hi. Thanks for your reply. Is there any reason why a standard pump shouldn’t be fitted? I understand the engine will take slightly longer to get to temp. Also if there is no switchable pump, what happens with any wiring that goes to it and will not having it cause any fault codes?

Hi guys. Wondering if any body has an idea of which water pump is fitted to my car. Need to order water pump and Timing belt kit however when asking parts suppliers if fitment is correct, even when I give reg I keep getting asked if it has the regular or switchable water pump. The car is a Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI 2014 (64 Reg) CUPA engine. Many thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

I know this is a bit old but here’s what I know. I work for a well known reputable company We fit tyres, do mots and repairs, servicing and tracking etc. we have a relatively new tracking system however we are unable to do tracking if your car has lane assist, I asked the regional manager if we would start doing tracking on cars with lane assist and apparently we would not be doing it any time soon if ever. He said that when the company looked into it it wasn’t just a case of adjusting the alignment like normal it has to be done using dealer diagnostics as we just use high end generic diagnostics which won’t do this and to be able to do this we would need to have dealer diagnostics for each manufacturer which large as the company is they just won’t invest in something as the cost is too high and the return is too small. it seems to be another thing for manufacturers to keep the business to themselves and charge what they like rather than the customer choosing to come to us or another similar garage to have it done in most cases the same day while you wait. I think this is probably going to be the same across all of the major high street garage brands in addition to the the smaller local garage who just cannot justify the expense of the systems required.

I'm not sure why egr values are still showing if it has been mapped out. The issues we had were at you said egr related in the end, just put a new one on and the problems have gone. If you have a blanking plate for the other end, I'd be inclined to put it on anyway just to eliminate that side of it anyway.

In honestly mate, it shouldn't. Did you have it actually mapped out or use one of those devices that fools the ecu into thinking it was not there?

Hi, dieselmonte. The car started up, drove 100 yards up the road, went into limp mode and clouds of whiteish grey smoke. Had codes read, p0299 underboost on turbo / supercharger. We did a smoke test, no leaks. Removed damper pipe and found the turbo to have substantial play in the shaft so we replaced it with a used part However the problem still remains (no squeal however) Reread codes, showed egr fault, have now replaced the egr with a brand new unit and the the squeal started. no play in the turbo at all. I think the squeal may have been one of the turbo to get valve pipes and today I have removed them and the squeal noise has gone but The car still won't boost, but no smoke anymore, tomorrow I am going to refit both of the egr valve pipes and see how that goes. thank you for your input but would be really gratefull of any pointers 😊

Just wanted an opinion. 1.6tdi CAYC engine. Turbo feed pipe (smaller on that bolts to the block with a banjo with two crush washers) on cranking when removed supplys a good amount oil. Larger pipe also bolted to the block (larger with banjo bolts and o rings) when Removed and cranking bearly dribbles. I personally dont think that's correct, I would assume that roughly the same amount of oil would come from the return that goes into the supply? Just looking for opinions 😊 Turbo is squealing like a.... Well let's say something that squeals alot! Cheers.

Hi and thank you for your reply. Don't egr issues usually throw up codes for egr rather than underboost codes?

Hi, thank you for your input. It feels like its going to boost, then jerks back down to no power and the symptoms as described above. I fitted the turbo myself and double checked, then triple checked all of the connections. The interviewer has not been off at any point. Many thanks again

Hi guys. Another issue that I'm struggling with We have a 2012 mk Golf1.6 tdi (yes I know this is a Skoda forum but it's the same engine lol) So this one was purchased as a kind of a project (accident damaged non runner) During the accident the car smashed it's sump resulting in it losing its oil. Any way, new sump fitted, battery charged and it started first time. Phew or so I thought. Took it out in a test drive, 20m up the road, white / blueish smoke, limp mode and flashing glowplug light. Put it on diagnostic and found P0299 Turbocharger / supercharger "A" underboost condition. So we did a smoke test to rule out any leaks, none were found. Checked turbo and discovered there was play in the shafts so we swapped this out for a replacement (used with low miles - no play in shaft whatsoever and the actuator seems to move freely) and the issue still remains. We disconnected the battery while fitting the turbo, so when the car was first started it sounded really good. It was only on the test drive it did exactly the same thing. So if I disconnect the battery, obviously something resets, the car will idle beautifully rev up ok but as soon as you put your foot down, in comes the flashing glow plug light, limp mode and smoke. Disconnected the battery and again it will idle perfectly, the engine sounds sweet, no knocks bangs or rattles, no smoke whatsoever in idle. If you don't put your foot down at all it will drive perfectly, no smoke etc... It's only when you put your foot down (while driving not just revving) I have also changed out the n75 boost pressure valve for a known working one. I have checked all the vacuum pipes and they are all OK... I'm clueless now as to where to look next?? Any suggestions would be gratefully welcomed 😊

Thanks guys for the suggestions, haven't had a chance to do anything with it at the moment but will try the suggestions.

Hi, I have a Fabia VRS 1.9 TDI (PD 130) BLT engine. I bought a new car (Octavia VRS) in January and parked the fab on the drive. Unfortunately the battery went flat and I have been to busy to do anything with the car. I have gone to try to get it started today with jump leads and have the following issue. It will turn over perfectly, fire then immediately stop. It will do this every time I turn the key. I have tried fitting a working tested battery and it does the same. I have also tested to see if the hpfp is getting fuel which it is. I have locked the car by the key, then unlocked and tried again with the same outcome. I don't have a second key to test and I'm not able to get the car to a garage to have it scanned. Is there anything else I can try it is any one local to Coventry who will scan for me for a couple of pints 😜 Many thanks in advance.