jonmad

Gotcha! Thanks. (yes, that would have been a good idea ).

Thanks, will bear that in mind. Some replacement hinges should arrive mid week so I’ll then get an idea how much of a challenge it will be for the bonnet to fit and get aligned.

Update, if you're interested. I got the bonnet off thanks to the HatBoyHarvey video above - two T40 bolts each side. The hinges were also held on by two T40 bolts each. There is a round black grommet each side to get to one of them - the ones that are nearer the front of the car. For the rear ones there was limited space - on the driver's side I was able to get enough space for a tiny ratchet spanner by stopping the wipers in the vertical position to get the wiper arm out of the way. I marked round the hinges before removing to help realignment later. In the pic I have reattached the bolts where the hinges go, to avoid losing them.

The two pins at the front are retaining pins for spotlights. You might be able to spot the two welded on brackets above the number plate where the lights are fitted to. ok, now I can see how to remove/ replace the bonnet (& the video helps). The back of the bonnet is slightly bent upwards I think. Ok, so the hinges themselves are obvious? It looks a bit fiddly but maybe with the bonnet off the access will be easier.

Ah, thanks, I’ll have a watch, I’ve used a few of his videos before. Definitely user error caused this one, annoyingly. Thanks, Jon

Hi, So like an idiot I went out and forgot the bonnet wasn't latched. (I use a trickle charger on the car). Got up to about 50mph and the bonnet came up and smashed the windscreen. Luckily I was near home and stopped safely in a straight line whilst not being able to see where I was going. I've ordered a couple of hinges from eBay to replace the bent ones and am hoping the bonnet will sit flush (enough) on new hinges. Can anyone tell me the method to replace the hinges please? Thanks. Pic of left hand hinge in situ vs what they are supposed to look like 😞

Update. I figured rather than mess around I'd get the loom changed. Got back in touch with the main dealer, got the part number - 5L0971120GA for my 2012 model - £130+VAT. Got a crazy labour quote. Rang my local garage, got a better labour quote, gave them the work. They also collected the car and returned it, and it coincided with my MOT being due which I'd get them to do anyway. (aside: MOT passed with just a note about the front brake pads being low - woo-hoo!). I asked to keep the removed loom. So here it is. - definitely knackered. - glad to see that the new one has the U-shaped boot.

Thanks, yes, I’ve seen a picture of the later, U-shaped ones, from 2013 or so? i rang my local dealer for a quote but they didn’t get back to me. Will try again tomorrow to get the boot off. Thanks

Thank you J.R. Well well. I just spent 20 mins sat in the car on this cold day with the engine running trying, unsuccessfully, to get the Car Scanner app connected via a bluetooth dongle into the OBD port (aside - this combination works on my Fabia). Just as I was giving up and about to climb back out of the passenger seat your post above arrived. I tried again outside and to my surprise the key worked, operating the central locking as expected. Then the remote worked. Several times. Not that it's relevant now but we've had the car 7 years and one owner before that so I can sat with some confidence that keys/locks all original. So is it some dodgy connection in here somewhere, that doesn't like the cold? How do I get the rubber boot off - a screwdriver into the detent at the top on the car body side? Thanks, Jon

An immediate issue with this course of action. I can't get the door open. To recap and a further update - Remote (tried both keys) is only unlocking passenger side doors, boot and fuel cap, not driver's door nor driver's side rear passenger door - The key will not turn in the lock so cannot open the door with the key (tried the key both ways up) - Tried banging the lock from outside with it notionally unlocked (button pressed and passenger side doors unlocked) but that didn't do anything - Cannot open the driver's door nor driver's side rear passenger doors with the handle from the inside - Tried banging the doors from the inside, with and without holding the door handles up, and that didn't work either. Tried front and rear. - The red 'locked' indicator light the locked light on the driver's door is out, whether the doors are locked or unlocked. Any other ways to try and get the driver's door or driver's side rear passenger door open? We don't have the child locks on in the back. We've had a run of below freezing temps overnight and just above freezing temps during the day. That might have something to do with it but the passenger side doors open easily enough I can't think they are frozen on the driver's side. Thanks, Jon

Hi, Have a 2012 Yeti 1.2 TSi Plus that we 'd had for 7 years. First issue with it has just occurred (not bad going really). Since yesterday, the driver's side front and rear doors are not opening on the remote, or from inside. No electric windows are working (from the driver's side buttons in any rate). I suspected a fuse but maybe loom related? Or maybe battery is on the way out, but the passenger side doors both lock/unlock ok. Not sure what else is not working, if anything. The car still starts and the lights still work, I haven't tried anything else. Thanks, Jon

👍 My go-to is the Michelin PS3 in 195/50R15. They are the control tyre in the Ginetta Junior series and they get taken up by the motorsport community after they are used for a single test session. Nearly new for half price.

Do you have 14" wheels as standard? I found this site you can play with to see the differences. I plugged in 185/60/14s (a guess at your tyre size) vs 195/50/15s and you can see 0.2% difference in speedo, as well as other differences described. https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=185-60-14X6ET38&wheel2=195-50-15X6ET38&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm Looks like your 2001 car has the same 5x100 pattern as mine (which makes sense as it's the same model) https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2001/#trim-14i-eudm-74

I didn't even think about selling the tyres that came on them 🥲 Love that green one. I have the centre caps too but they are a little bit crusty and I don't need them on.

Been after a decent priced set of Pepperpots for ages to see if a reduction in unsprung weight can help me in autosolos (I've had the toe out set recently as well). 1.8kg per corner lighter than the other wheels I use, which are from a Golf mk4.

Yep, I wasn't sure whether my springs were std height or not. Looks like they are. So no issues fitting std shocks. 👍

And here we are on std shocks with 12 months' of MOT Looks similar to on the adjustable ones so ride height must be standard (maybe up a little, due to being partially stripped out). And here are the old adjustable ones that I can get refurbed, or replaced for not much more. Thanks all.

Thanks, helpful again. I've picked up some std Bilsteins to try out. Agree they are great off road 😁

Thanks, that is interesting. I did a very unscientific side by side comparison, overlaying some intersecting lines in Photoshop. This is when mine was running on the 14s. Very roughly, not much in it.

Yeah, I do autosolos and targa rallies. I bought the car modified. Some spec details. It's done 23k only. Full bolt-in roll cage inc door bars and single rear diagonal Gaz Gold adjustable suspension with (I think, see above) raised ride height Two fixed bucket seats Two 4 point harnesses with aircraft buckles (seat belts removed) Sparco dished alcantara steering wheel with top centre yellow marking 15" alloys from a mk4 Golf GTi (I think), painted white for extra speed 4 spare 15" alloys as above (although two don't hold air, but that's ok as I have pairs to carry as spares) 6 spare 14" Compomotive MO alloys, painted white 1.4, 100bhp but with an induction kit and remap. Maybe 110-115bhp but who knows - I've not been to a Rolling Road yet in it. Rally tripmeter (Terratrip 202) - but never used and think it's missing the correct probe to the wheel that's needed Hella Rallye 3000 spotlights (removable) 8mm alloy sump and tank guards, both removable (the sump guard has holes drilled in so it doesn't fill with water). Spare wheel post in boot for two spare wheels Map light for the passenger Air con delete Rear wiper delete Sound deadening removed Rear door window mechanisms removed (rear glass is fixed, rear doors still open) Custom dash centre panel with horn button (plus three other non-functioning buttons) Rear seats cushions present and in place (to meet Targa regs) but strapped down under the roll cage. Jon

I think there's a std one down the road, I might walk past it with a tape measure and surreptitiously take a note of its height to wheel arch.

Hi, I did a quick search and didn't find anything. Two parts to this. 1) Please could someone tell me the standard ride height of the mk1, and where that is measured to. I have Gaz Gold suspension on my Fabia rally car. I don't know exactly whether the ride height is higher than std, but it looks it. I'd like to know how to measure it and what to compare it to. 2) The reason for asking that. One of my rear shocks, offside rear as shown, failed the MOT on a failed lower bush. (Yeah, as you can see they are pretty rusty). Gaz can refurb the shocks. I am considering std shocks in the meantime to get through the MOT. Gaz have advised, 'We cannot say for certain whether fitting a standard shock will get you through the MOT process. If the car runs higher than standard ride height then the standard shock will probably be too short.' My question is, does that make sense? Others (albeit not suspension manufacturers ) have said std shocks would be fine. Thanks, Jon (currently clueless about suspension but learning)

Perfect! One of the coils blew the fuse. Replaced it with a spare and all good. Thanks so much for suggesting that fuse. We’d checked a couple of others based on another post somewhere, but didn’t go down the list looking for other likely fuses to check.

Thanks Wino, that’s a great help. I’ll order some fuses then see how I get on.

Ah. We checked 17 and 56. 52 was kaput. I swapped it with 50 (RH dipped beam). It blew when I turned the ignition on (I heard it go click).