bald eagle

Hi, Just wondering did you solve the problem ?

Hi again, There are a number of relays behind the facia, it's not too difficult to remove the lower dash on the RHS. The relay box is held in place with a couple of plastic clips. If you get to these you should be able to check which is the ignition feed if you remove the 40A fuse in the engine bay (number 28 if I remember) and you can prove 12V this far then its likely to be a relay or associated with the ignition switch or its wiring if you are lucky. If I remember some of the relays are the same type so you may be able to test by interchanging them. I believe that its not as simple as cars used to be as there is an electronic unit in the steering column which comunicates with the onboard supply control unit (what the behind facia relays are mounted in and does have some electronics). I don't have any circuit diags, I tried my local Halfords for a Haynes manual and was told that they were available for the VRS and later models. Hope this helps Mike

Hello, The Skoda dealer failed miserably. The actual fault was a snagged wire to the tow bar fed from the ignition circuit which was blowing the 40A fuse intermittently. The wire was run through the engine bay where it had been snagged. After sorting this the car has been fine (done approx 8000 miles since). If you have any aftermarket accessories its worth checking the routing of the wires and quality of installation. Hope this helps PS having fixed it myself and complaining to the dealer MD he apologised and refunded my invoice.

Hi Again, Have managed a little more investigation tonight. I borrowed a DC current clamp. I checked the current to the starter solenoid during cranking several times and this was between 8.0 and 8.6A peak (set current clamp on max hold). I then connected the current clamp around the battery feed to the engine bay fuse box. On switching the ignition on it was reading 24 - 26A and fluctuating, the glow plug warning light was out . Heated rear screen, lights etc were not on. This seemed a bit high. I checked the inrush peak which was 91A a couple of times. Also noted interior light dimming. NB did not attempt to crank at this point. The only thing I switched was the ignition key, now inrush is 13A and steady state 7A. Have been unable to repeat above figures even after leaving car for an hour. Interior light is no longer dimming. Car starts and runs, something is lurking, I was hoping to be able to pull fuses and relays to eliminate where the current was going. Obviously something else not connected may have been switching in. Current with ignition switch in off position is 0.2A approx The only other thing I noticed was a high pitch whistle from a power supply, this may or may not be normal, I don't usually stand with the bonnet open and the ignition switched on. Aren't intermittent faults fun.

Hi, Thanks for your reply. The first time the fuse blew I was driving at approx 30 mph, 30 mins into a journey. The second time a few seconds after starting and the third time on starting. The fuse has been replaced and the car starts and runs. The wiring has been checked to the relay box and the starter solenoid with no faults found. The condition of the fuses suggest to me an overload condition or stressing due to them melting (leaving a small air gap) rather than an outright short. Can you please expand on the terminal 50 relay fault, eg description of possible events. Digging a bit deeper, I hear some cars have a relay that disconnects some circuits during starting, do you know if this is relevant here. thanks Mike

Hi, Does anyone know what the resistance of the starter solenoid should be. Mine is measuring approx 0.2 ohms on a calibrated meter. I would have expected this to be a little higher as the Fuse supplying it is 40A. The reason I ask is that I am having intermittent failure of fuse 28 which then obviously stops the car running. Examination of the fuses show them to have melted rather than blown. thanks in advance Mike

Hi, Just in case anyone is thinking of replying or interested. My car is now fixed. I went into the Skoda dealers this morning with the intention of arranging the cars removal back to my home. I was told by the "Master Technician" that there was a major problem with the ECU and this had affected other things on the CAN BUS., they were awaiting further instructions from Skoda Technical. Asking if the feed to fuses 1 to 6 had been resolved I was given a very wooly response. I reitered what I had previously told them and expressed my concerns that the fuses that power the electronics have no feed so I would not expect them to function. To humour me they went and checked the supply circuit to fuses 1 to 6 and found the problem with the supply from the 40A fuse under the bonnet. Car running, no expensive parts needed, basic fauilt. This is a so called Skoda main dealer not a Fred in a shed. Just because modern cars are more complicated what happened to good old fashioned fault finding ? Not everything can be fixed with a laptop. I wonder how many people have paid for expensive parts unnecessarily.

Hi, its a 57 plate Octavia II VRS

Help My VRS switched itself off at 30 MPH without any warning All fuses in both fuse boxes are good (under bonnet and facia) Lights, Horn,Hazards, Central locking all work The dash is totally dead. Turning ignition siwtch on, relays are heard to operate Fuses 1 to 6 in internal fuse box do not have a supply (no 12V feed) Putting a jumper wire from live part of fuse box to above fuses common feed brings dash to life. Looks like a fault somewhere between ignition switch and internal fuse box feed to above fuses. I don't have a wiring diagram so proceeding any further is very difficult. Car is currently with local Skoda dealer who has spent several hours on the car at £60 per hour and says he hasn't a clue as he can't get diagnostics to run on it. He won't cos there isn't any power to the electronic bits which are fed from fuses 1 to 6 Any constructive ideas would be greatly appreciated..