maxychat

Having recently retrofitted MFSW controls and the trip computer I'd say if your car didn't come with an option from the factory then don't expect any of the necessary wiring to be place unfortunately, so it will be a pretty huge job. As @freemansteve says new wiring harness, relay, fuse, new bumper, new headlight switch, new bumper, and then coding too I'd imagine.

@P3P5I Thanks and great Point you make about the BCM. I only have the optional Strop/Start and Heated Seats so anyone with that configuration you can be confident you can do this retrofit, but you should always check and be certain for compatibility before trying the installation. But I wonder how many different BCMs there are on the Facelift model, something to investigate

I recently added MSFW to my 2017 Facelift Citigo SE L. I couldn’t find a guide online so here is an abridged one until I can make a much more detailed one, with full pictures and format it properly. When I was looking for the used car I noticed how few had the MFSW controls so hopefully it may be of some help to those who didn’t fit it from the factory or would like to add it to a used one. Thanks to @P3P5I who's thread on adding it to the non pre-facelift model was a great resource. Parts you’ll need: 1/ 5E0919719C MFSW Control 2/ 5E0971584A Wiring harness 3/ Cables that fit into wiring harness. I purchased a cable to retrofit the trip computer on ebay from Cum_Cartec. It has 3 wires but only you only need 2. MSFW Retrofit into Skoda Citigo Facelift 2017- Instructions: 1/ Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and wrap it in a cloth. Wait for a short while for any residual current to discharge 2/ Remove the airbag from steering wheel. You’ll need to put the key in the ignition to turn the wheel both ways to access the clips on the rear. Using a pick push down on the tabs to release it. Put the steering wheel straight 3/ Remove the airbag cable by pull the white tab on the connector, and remove the airbag. 4/ Using an M12 spline socket remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in place. Mark using a paint pen it’s position/take a photo and remove the steering wheel. There is a factory mark where it should be seated, but mine was one spline off from the factory 5/ With the steering wheel off pry off the plastic trim on the Steering wheel starting from the bottom and moving left to the where the control will be added. It takes a lot of prying and strength to pull it off. Unscrew the blanking plate [it takes a very small star screw] and replace it with the MFSW control 5E0919719C [I suspect this could all be done without removing the steering wheel, it would be incredibly fiddly but I’m sure it’s doable. I was adding a new stalk for Cruise Control and the Trip computer so I had to remove it] 6/ Unscrew the screw on the trim underneath the steering column trim. Pry off the upper section of the steering column strim and unscrew the remain 2 screws holding the trim in place that were hidden by the top piece if trim. This is surprisingly easy. 7/ Tape the Clock Spring in place as a precaution 8/ With the steering column trim removed you’ll have access to the wiring loom. Remove the connector that runs into the clock spring wiring by releasing the red tab. In this connector lies another connector that needs to be removed from it. It sounds complicated but it’s quite simple when you have it in hand. 9/ With the connector removed you now need to add 2 cables. One to number 3 and one to number 4. Thankfully on this connector they are labelled. The cables will be run as follows: Pin 3 will run to BCM (White) Connector B to Pin 17 Pin 4 will run to +12V. In this case the yellow cable that runs to headlight angle adjuster. 10/ With the cables to the clock spring harness, put the bigger connector back on the end and reconnect it. Run the cables under the steering column through a factor cable tie on the right hand side. Replace the steering column trim. 11/ Replace the Steering Wheel onto the same spline it came off and tighten the retaining bolt to 30Nm + 90° as according to the manual. Mark the spline bolt with a dot to indicate it's been replaced once. 11/ Remove the cable from the back of the airbag and replace it with the new one with the connector for the MFSW control 5E0971584A. Replace the cables back into the steering wheel and the connector to the MSFW. Be sure the cables are well placed so as to not be crushed when reinstalling the airbag. Push the airbag into it place and it’ll click into position. 12/ Now remove the trim under the steering wheel. Remove the pillar by the foot by prying it off and the trim as the side of the dash pry’s off too. Unscrew 2 screw on the side and one underneath. Then you an pull away the trim enough to make enough space to work above it hanging down. It can be completely removed by prying the center piece of trim off under the radio and then unscrewing it entirely but I just couldn’t manage to pry it off (if anyone knows how please let me know). 13/ Remove the headlight switch. Push it in and turn clockwise [look up on youtube] and disconnect the cable to create a bit more space. 14/ Stick your hand in and remove the headlight angle adjuster from behind. Pushing the tabs on both sides and pulling it out from behind. Remove the connector from the switch. The Cable that was run from Pin4 of the clock spring connector needs to be spliced into the yellow cable of this connector to get +12V. You can get +12V elsewhere if you prefer but this 100% works perfectly. When you switch the headlights on the button on the MFSW control will light up too so I recommend it. Replace the Switch into the dashboard and reinstall the headlight switch too 15/ Remove Connector B from the BCM. You’ll need to stick your hand up behind the OBDII port and undo the connector. Once this is done you’ll need to push into the gap upward and left so you can access it. Once it’s in the gap remove the white connector from the outside to reveal a black connector. Separate the black connector into it’s 2 parts but pushing/pulling them in different directions. Once this is done you can add the cable that was run Pin3 from the clock spring connector to Pin 17 of the BCM (White) B connector. Replace the connector back into the BCM . This is by far the hardest part and seems impossible when faced with the challenge but somehow it’s possible with enough motivation. Why VAG has placed the BCM here is anyone's guess. 16/ Replace all the trim and reconnect the battery 17/ Using VCDS open 09 Cent Elect. Change Byte 9 Bit 3 tick the box (change to 1). If all is done well then you’ll have MFSW control. Total Cost: 1/ 5E0919719C MFSW Control £45 for a used steering wheel with it attached 2/ 5E0971584A Wiring harness £20 used 3/ Cables that fit into wiring harness £15 Total cost £80 (minus anything I can get back selling the reclaimed parts I took off) Time: Allow 4 hours or more

I mean removed in the figurative sense of the word, in that I wrongly thought all cars had them as standard, not that the CItigo had them and were later removed. But very interesting that your 2019 has it. Unfortunately for me my Facelift 2017 SE-L 75 Greentech doesn't have them so it's been added as standard somewhere in those 2 years. I do wonder if adding the arch liners and the bonnet noise absorber would make any discernible difference to the noise level...

Yeah of course absolutely I will do so. Unfortunately the one I found with matching upholstery to my Citigo wasn't heated so back to looking. I'll have to compare pictures/part numbers online to see if the connectors match if I can find one - but for whatever reason none of the ones on ebay are seemingly heated

Great shout! That was the first thing I added ha! Best £139 I've spent on the car, really great quality of life upgrade, cant imagine driving without it now. I'm even now looking into an if a mk3 Fabia seat would plug n play fit into the car for even extra comfort.

That's good to know! Really it could be a massive quality of life upgrade to the car. The Citigo seat is lacking support and doesn't feel that great on the long motorway journeys. If the connectors for the airbag/heated seats/seat belt warning/ are the same then it'd be someone I'd like to put on the car for sure

@P3P5I Wow I'm very impressed! I honestly don't think I could do that commute in the Citigo so the cruse control retrofit you've done sounds like an amazing quality of life upgrade. I've struggled a bit on the long runs so I look forward to trying to install mine soon! Also it's great that it's improved the mpg! Fantastic added bonus.

I had a look on online earlier and the Fabia mk3 seats have the side airbag just like the CItigo, so perhaps minimal coding would be required. See the attached image, it also has the same upholster as the ones in my citigo ha! If as you say the "wheelbase" of the bolts is the same and I found one with heated seats I wonder if it would have the same connector as the Citigo? i.e. plug and play. I wonder if anyone here would know? If the answer is yes then the question is the Fabia mk3 seat more comfortable than the Citigo seat?

@P3P5I Amazing thank you, that's very kind of you! I'm certain I will have to send you a message or 2 for help! Just looking through the guide supplied by the cable manufacturer and all the pictures are of a different car haha! So even more grateful for your guide! @freemansteve You raise a great point, having driven from London to St. Ives it's quite a lot hills on the various A roads and motorways. More than any car I've previously owned it's a lot of changing up and down the gears! Foot to the floor in 5th really doesn't do much, so down to 4th and sometimes even 3rd! I really wonder how the cruise control will handle it.

Fantastic write up! Thanks a lot. It's the best guide I've seen so much appreciated. I've bought the steering combination switches from a breaker and just waiting for the cables from Germany that you used (Cum Cartec unfortunate name!) to arrive then I'll be giving it a go. I'll only add the MFA control and also the multi-function controls to the steering wheel but will lay the cables for the cruise control so i don't have to take everything apart again when I attempt it. If I can get those 2 to work then I'll attempt to finish the cruise control cable routing. Looking at your guide I'm already anticipating a difficult day ahead!

I bought a Mahle oil filter from Amazon ("dispatched and sold by Amazon") and to my surprise its says "Made in PRC". It's packaged and looks the most premium oil filter I've ever purchased, but some mental block is preventing me from fitting it (perhaps irrationally). I might return it and purchase the same one from Opie Oils and see what arrives. If it comes back the same thing I'll just fit it and accept this new normality. But I see a lot of members are generally very particular about the parts they fit on their much more premium cars than mine, in that case maybe avoid Mahle for oil filters.