Declan O'Shaughnessy

If your car doesn't have Hill Hold Control, then rolling back on hills is normal. Lots of early Superbs only had HHC as an extra option, while some had it fitted but not enabled in the software (can be enabled using VCDS / VAG-COM - search the site for more answers). In terms of your other problems, I've driven our Superb since 2010 and it's been doing most of what you describe for the last 8 years or so. I haven't ever had a flashing gear number though, so that might require more investigation. But in terms of the strange gear changes, hanging onto gears etc. from my perspective it's pretty normal. You get used to the erratic behaviour at roundabouts etc. and learn to adjust / watch out for it. Software resets have improved things a bit for me in the past, but it might just be placebo effect. A garage told me years ago that the gears / clutches were slipping and I should pay to replace the whole unit as it was on its last legs. Another garage told me it was fine and to just keep driving it! For me it never made economic sense to change the mechatronic unit etc. Maybe I've been lucky and just gotten away with it. I have the older 6-speed wet gearbox, for what that's worth. And lots of people will tell you that they don't experience what you're experiencing, which is true. But for me it's just symptoms of not brilliant software for the most part I think.

If you drop the SK48 from the start of the product code, then the rest of the code corresponds with side mirror glass for a Range Rover by the looks of it (which seems to have your two wires). So, a complete stab in the dark, but did a previous owner / garage discover that the glass from a completely different vehicle would fit the Superb and just decide to go with it? As to what the wires do? No idea, but maybe auto-dimming feature or something similar? Certainly the side mirrors on my Skoda Superb (58 plate) don't have wires, just the heat connector.

Assuming that you have a Columbus unit, the postcode limitation is a function of the early firmwares (with a 2010 car, you are probably on a very early firmware 22xx version). I think anything from 3xxx up (certainly 42xxx onwards) introduced full postcode search and on-display clock (even when unit is turned off) as well as access to the "Hidden settings" menu. But you will also need to upgrade your maps to make full use of the postcode search. If you search on this site, you'll find lots of guides and info on upgrading firmware and maps. You can also find resources on guides by using Google. Alternatively, you can resort to eBay and just buy what you need: please note that it won't be original disks - they will be copies that someone has made. If you're okay with that, then that's the easiest way to go. The volume for sat-nav and radio / media are actually seperate from each other, but it's not exactly obvious! The easiest way to adjust it is to wait until the sat nav is "speaking" to you and then adjust the volume at the same time as the sat-nav is "speaking". This will seperate the volume of the sat-nav from the radio / media. But if you want to adjust the volume of the sat-nav again, you have to wait until it's speaking to you again. You can "force" it to speak by pressing the "repeat last instruction" button or setting a new destinatin (for example), which makes it easier for fine-tuning the volume. I'm pretty sure you can also adjust the volumes within the "Settings" menu, but it probably buried a bit in submenus.

The cover is just one piece of plastic - I don't think you can replace the clips on the cover, just the cover itself. I got mine from eBay when I have to replace them a few years ago. But once you have the part number from that listing (3T0955109 - left and 3T0955110 - right), then you can try Amazon or online motor factors or local motor factors etc.

This post should tell you everything you need to know:

If you haven't already, then try unplugging the bluetooth module under the seat and plugging it back in again. This usually fixes intermittent problems with the module not communicating with the Columbus. If that doesn't resolves the problem, you really need to get a scan done with VCDS or similar to see if there are error codes stored for the module. It could be that the unit is dead, but without swapping in a known-to-be-working module to test, it's hard to say for certain.

If you have VCDS / VAG-COM you can do the DSG reset procedure yourself. Full details here. It can help to smooth out gear changes etc. but it won't work miracles if there's a mechanical problem with the clutch packs or the mechatronic unit etc.

Normally, I'd point you to the VWNavi forums, but they seem to have been offline anytime I've checked them recently, so I don't know if the site is dead or what. As an alternative, you can try this page. I've checked a couple of the links and they appear to be working as expected. There are instructions on the page as to how to reinstall the firmware etc. Because we don't know what firmware you currently have, it's difficult to tell you which one to go for. If it was me, I'd try the 381X firmware and go from there. Now, again depending on what you currently have, there is the possibility that you will lose all maps, mp3s etc. (despite what the page tells you). And to install a new-ish (as in, in the last 5 years or so) version of the maps, your HDD needs to be formatted with 3 partitions. If your current HDD set-up is with just two partitions, the firmware install might fail, but more likely will just wipe the maps etc. Doing a quick Google brought back this page and this page from posts on here with a similar issue. As you'll see, there isn't a published fix and the most straightforward approach would be to speak with @Rustynuts about a proper repair (or if that is even possible at this point). You might be able to buy a used Columbus online if that is something that you want to consider. Anyways, best of luck with it and sorry that I can't be of more help. If you do find a solution, it would be helpful if you updated this thread for other users in the future.

It might be a faulty ABS sensor on one or more wheels. There are threads on here with, I think, similar fault codes that ended up being faulty ABS. But that's a stab in the dark really. If you can, get your car scanned with VCDS and you should have more information to go on.

Technically, as I understand it, the correct procedure is to prime the fuel pump using VCDS (or similar) when you change the fuel filter. Basically, the fuel pump is run for 30 seconds to fully pressurise or something, before starting the ignition. Failure to do this can, apparently, cause damage to the fuel pump and system. So if you have VCDS it would be sensible to follow that advise (you can find the steps to carry out the procedure with a quick Google or follow the Ross-Tech wiki http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Pump_Basic_Settings_for_PD,_PPD,_and_CR_TDI_Engines ). For what it's worth, I have changed the fuel filter in the past without using VCDS (before I knew the recommended procedure) and didn't run into any problems at all. But you pays your money and you makes your choices I guess.

You can certainly try taking off the glass and cleaning the contacts to see if it fixes matters. I know when my mirror stopped heating up I just had to replace the glass, but my mirrors aren't auto-dimming.

Might be worth your while having a read of this thread for possible sources of the problem and solutions.

I'd try rebooting your Bluetooth module in the car firstly. That's as simple as locating the module under the driver's seat (move the seat back and you'll see the module under a black plastic cover on the floor) and unplugging any cables connected to it, then plugging all the cables back in again (usually there's only two at most but you might only have one). After this, I'd also reboot the Colombus (press and hold down the < > and the microphone buttons) and the device will reboot. Finally, there's no harm also rebooting your phone. After that, try connecting your phone again. If the above doesn't work, I think you can try establishing the Bluetooth connection either through the phone or through the car. So whichever one you are trying, try doing it the other way. If you're still not able to connect, it may be that your Bluetooth module has packed up (or the fuse supplying power has blown). Ideally you'd be getting the car scanned with VCDS or similar to see if there are any stored faults with the module. I don't think it's the fuse, given that you seem to be seeing the Bluetooth module attempt to connect to your phone. If there was no power, it shouldn't ever give you an option to connect I would think.

Normally the problem is just a general gunking up of the spring / latch mechanism. Take the spring unit off the bonnet - it's only 3 torx screws from memory and give it a clean and a brush down with a wire brush. Then lubricate it with something suitable (I've used copper grease and ceramic lubricant in the past - I don't think it makes a crucial difference what you use) and re-attach it. Flex it a few times to make sure you have full movement back in it again and you should be good to go. To be honest, you probably want to get in the habit of doing this every 12 months or so, just as a pre-caution. The other thing I would say is, one day when you have nothing better to do, find something that can open the latch when it gets stuck and get used to the feel of how to do it. Basically you need something long and thin and strong (a very long screwdriver or similar is ideal). Once you have that, push it in under the released bonnet and use it to push the catch free of the lever. From memory, I think you would be pushing to the right (or levering to the right) as you look into the car. It's easy to do once you have the right tool and have done it once or twice. But at least you'll know how to get it open if it does happen to you some day.

@Snapper1725 There is some shudder on braking at times, I'm not sure about kick. I tend to brake very lightly if I'm honest, unless I misjudge something and have to break hard. A lot of the time I'm coasting to junctions etc. and only lightly braking at the end. To swap the discs I'd have to get the caliper carrier off wouldn't I? I don't think I can manage that without buying another tool (I have the spline bit but my wrenches struggle to fit into the space that's there). The wheel spins freely now (since doing the work on the caliper this morning) but normally it's virtually impossible to spin (same on both sides). I don't know which cable is the handbrake one, but I'll check the service manual and see if I can figure it out and try what you suggest. Probably won't be in the next few days though - waiting for the weather to cool down! Thanks for the suggestions.