adamyt

I've got a Skoda Pickup I no longer need. I bought it back in 2021, it needed a new engine so I pulled the engine but as always life took over and never finished it. Bought another one and drove it to Slovakia in 2023 (might have rolled it over 👀) I'm moving and want to get it gone, they're pretty rare, it's in good condition but needs the normal spots welding up on it. It's missing the front brake calipers and drivers seatbelt, the interior has been disassembled but is all inside, plus a dashboard and misc parts from a VW Bora that I was exploring installing to modernise it a bit. The engine is in the bed but it's been exposed to the weather, couldn't get it going so pulled it out. I have the gearbox in the shed. Logbook is in my name but not sure where it is, only £25 to get a new one for the DVLA. Looking for token £100, don't want to scrap it. If you've put one back on the road before and can prove it you can have it for free.

Yeah, they absolutely don't rub. Source: I run them.

Am from UK and am picking up AEF engine for a few hundred quid this weekend, the fella has a 1.6, I'll be going from Wales to Norfolk if you're on my way I maybe I'll be able to grab it for you?

Sorry never updated this Pushrod came loose from rocker

Going on a roadtrip across Eastern Europe with a friend, ironically the one who was more prepared & already lives in central europe isn't able to get the car out of the garage haha, my glorious pickup had no issues with the 1k km roadtrip (ignoring a leaky heater matrix) Anyhow, TL;DR car runs like absolute ass, new timing chain, spark plugs, help plz Here's my friends full explanation of the issue, I've summarized Timing chain replaced Test driven and drives normal Car sat, used recently and ran poorly, summised to be bad fuel, no change. Replaced sparkplugs, one cylinder has fouled the sparkplug substantially. Car runs on either LPG or Petrol, both have same issue Exhaust removed, same issue Intake clear The ECU is capable of reading back the cam position sensor in both degrees and a percentage - any idea what the desired values are? In an ideal world it wouldn't be timing related as it was tested after replacing the chain, but life. Here's my friends write up

Yeah similar, just a "ECU" next to it and different fuse positions. Thanks for the P/N will go out and check shortly. Glorious diesel 💪💪 too bad it's vw. Didn't test the switch because the wiring post switch is no good, just jumped between on the connector and no chooch, 12v feed coming in so something downstream is sad.

Any idea where fig. 11 "Stage two cooling fan relay" is? I'm getting 12v on the switch, bridge over, nothing, power fan directly and it spins, checked the 40A fuse before and all was ok. Only bit in the diagram left now. I know there's relays near the ""ECU"" but I believe they're for the glowplugs?

Not yet, it's got some bodge wires so a bit curious, I was going to scavenge the switch from pickup #1 but didn't have a big enough spanner lol. Going to bodge it until I can get a new switch. (once confirmed) Replaced entire fuseboard from pickup #1, lights are now working so deffo sad relays. Need to swap over indicator relay since this salvaged one doesn't work. If anyone has current flow diagrams chilling I'd be thankful for a copy

Oh there's 100% moisture under the dashboard at some point, given the hole near the battery box leading into the passenger footwell! (Fuseboard looks ok though, so maybe it's been replaced) The fan I'm talking about is the radiator one, human fans work fine. I'll check the relays, thanks

Hiya chaps To preface, UK models have both the headlight and sidelight switch next to each other in the center I can turn the slidelights on and both sides work, highbeams only work from the right light when pulling the stalk forward, when you release it it doesn't stay on, neither when its pushed all the way back (not really a huge problem) The normal lights aren't working at all, I replaced the bulbs since I had some already, didn't change anything. Checked the fuses and all was fine, fuses aren't the transparent style so replacing them to make visual inspection easer. I probed the headlight switch and all connections other than ground have 12v, how is this? The physical switch was broken (backlight didn't come on, fell apart after unplugging it), but I'm not clear on what the circuit looks like. Maybe also related my fan doesn't work either which was discussed in this. All other lights work ok. Anyone got current flow diagrams or any ideas? None of the fuseboard diagrams are really clear about each relays function.

Drum brakes are black magic Removed all tension from handbrake cable, seated shoes back in place, drum fits over shoes now! Started raining so assembly postponed. Thanks @Breezy_Pete 👑

No I didn't, will give that a go and report back. Cheers

Looks like I'm already as far as it'll go up, I bought these preassembled because ew springs, after getting the handbrake cable in it ended up popping apart so put it back together, not sure if that's causing issues. Much more fiddly to install on this side than the other. The pins to secure were in while I was trying to fit, not in anymore as I've pulled it out a few times.

Hiya chaps Put new shoes into my pickup, passenger side went without a hitch however drives side is giving me trouble. I can't get the drum back over the shoes, online there's talk about the adjusters and how you need to push them up, a lot use the drum as leverage which isn't installed on mine yet. Anyone have any information on the exact procedure, how much force am I supposed to use? That Polo GTI disk swap is looking pretty appealing now

MDI is just a connector used by VW years ago, I guess before everyone used USB The control box is that box on the left, the rectangle with foam in it is the center air vents for reference May not be the same since yours is 2017 PQ26/MQB-A0, more like a Fabia mk3's electrical system

On my 2015 rapid this was just an adapter to MDI, which was then plugged into a telephone module strapped to the dashbar on the passenger side. Can maybe get to it with the radio out but I doubt it. You've tried other USB cables yeah?

Yeah felly didn't have hydro clutch as far as I know, thanks for sanity checking - will install.

Hiya chiefs So when releasing my brake pedal the clutch will be pushed upwards with it, there's no limit so without intervention it'd hit the bottom of the dash. Looking at ETKA there's a spring that's installed, not too clear where it goes though - I have a spring for it. Person before me just slathered the outside in grease which predictably did nothing, cleaned all that up and tried to lubricate between the sleeve and the bar, this resolved the issue of the clutch applying the brake, but not the brake pushing the clutch up. Since there's a return spring on the gearbox, would the spring be mounted to pull the clutch back down to a neutral position?

It couldn't possibly be that, never in a million years woul- YEP! Bloody splines weren't seated, reinstalled and it goes BRRRRR!

I replaced my CV axle a few weeks ago, haven't ran it because been doing other work on it. I can shift into any gear, I hear it engaging in the gearbox, release clutch, nothing. I can move the lower linkage and move it backwards and forwards, not sure how the upper one moves - going to video under while I shift. I know you're supposed to use something to retain the internals of the gearbox with the cv axle removed, I didn't do this because I immediately installed the new axle. What gives? It's only revving, there's zero load on the engine. Is a pickup 1.9D

Just to add, I originally bought some crap eBay tool for brake lines, it did "work" but it was way more effort. I got the Draper 23313 brake flare tool and it's worked perfectly every time. Amount of time I wasted doing crap flares verses 10 minutes for all of them using this.

OK not updated this in a while Turns out I just need 3/16" M12 bolts, not to adapt the slightly bigger brake line to 3/16. Not a brake system man so learn something new everyday. Adapter plate for original master cylinder is gone, welded it up and seemed "ok" but didn't trust it. Now using a Golf mk7 master cylinder, Tesla iBooster, M12 union going to a generic T splitting off for front/rear sides respectively. Installing new wheel cylinders shortly as last owner stripped the bleeders 😭 iBooster is secure in place, I'm not a huge fan of how it's installed - since I had to widen the existing holes it could do with a shim in-between the firewall and the bolts, pushing pedal feels ok but there's a bit of twisting motion if you push directly on the booster, on the axis where you push the brake pedal it's rock solid. Next job is to delete Vacuum line and crimp connector, need to build a small harness to internally connect the iBoosters main plug and its pedal sensor (all on the unit) together, and provide 12v and ignition, that'll get it operating. Future plans is to speak to it with CAN so I can use a radar and have forward collision, adaptive cruise, etc.

Done, setup ratchet straps exactly like @TMB , installed in 10s 🥴 Alignment seems out of whack, going MOT then get the other side and alignment done 🙏 Thanks for everyones help ❤️

Been a busy week so haven't had time yet mate, plan is tomorrow. Getting my pickup ready for an off road adventure in/around romania in a few weeks 👀

Awesome thanks, will give it a shot They say it's very naughty to split the two pieces on the listing, it's already in now so going to be a mess to split them